Recent posts

#1
Reader's Rides / Re: Hillclimb and Turbo car (s...
Last post by jvanzyl - Yesterday at 20:07
Nice update. Don't forget fuel system will prime upon key insertion (not turning).
#3
Reader's Rides / Re: Hillclimb and Turbo car (s...
Last post by tets - Yesterday at 18:34
well today didn't go to plan....

Called for 5 litres of BP Ultimate on the way to the garage and 1st job was test fuel system.

Put a litre in and waited, checked for leaks and ok. Put another litre in and check for leaks and ok.
This wasn't with the pump on, just the gravity that would test the fuel filter and up to the pump.
All ok so drop the rest in and I could smell fuel vapour.

Thought it must be the filter so researched and made a loop system with the filter at neck level.
At this point I noticed a rather large wet patch under the frunk = bugger, leak.
Got under the car and one of the AN fitting on the outlet of the fuel filter was leaking! couldn't get it off still leaking, got a kitchen bowl under it and managed to get the pipe from the tank to the filter off and drained the tank back into the container.

Too much vapour in the air to do anything (or leave the garage for that matter) so doors wide open, clean up operation and do a few trim and cleaning jobs that would be safe until it cleared!

So nothing of any substance achieved apart from finding a leak!

We'll go again next week with new pipework! 
#4
Quote from: Ardent on Yesterday at 08:25Easy to say as not my money. But I would suggest replacing it.
I have both PFL and FL subframes fro sale, if interested.
Will post some photos this afternoon.
#5
That one has rotted through at the opposite end from the usual spot (where the exhaust passes underneath the subframe).

That would indicate a thoroughly rotten item which is past saving.

Replacements (new and used) can be found.
#6
MOT aside I wouldn't even drive that until you get a replacement, usually they rot out underneath the frame in that spot so for it to have a hole in the upper surface I'd say it was about ready to snap in two.
You CAN get them welded but I'd be surprised if there was much metal to weld to in that area now.
#7
Easy to say as not my money. But I would suggest replacing it.
#8
Hi there

Removed manifold and heat shield today on our 2001 and found a hole in the subframe.  See photos below.  Do you reckon this would be a MOT fail? Should I get it welded?

If so does anyone know a mobile welder who can fix whilst car is in my garage in south Brum.
#9
So today we removed the old manifold and CAT.  Bit of a nightmare job but got there in the end.  Pre CAT in left leg of manifold was there but cracked and decomposing.  Pre CAT in right leg was completely absent. See photos

We have new manifold and main CAT to install next weekend.  Just waiting on a few new studs and nuts and for welding on subframe (see separate post)



#10
Reader's Rides / Re: Hillclimb and Turbo car (s...
Last post by tets - April 13, 2024, 17:31
Managed a few more jobs today.

Brakes bled (twice to make sure all the old fluid was ejected) and have a lovely pedal.

Did the clutch a while ago with the bleed kit but whilst I had a helper, I tried the old method as a back up. This time the pedal occasionally stays on the floor so somethings not right. I;m going to put the bleed kit on it again tomorrow but any advice welcome. It's a new paddle clutch that an experienced MR2 guy fitted so I hope he's done it right!

Also decided to pipe the turbo without going through the intercooler (for ease) to get the car MOT'd and back on the road. This is the way the PE kit was designed so can't see it being an issue.
Anyway got the pipework fitted and clamped up.

It was also designed to run standard injections and rising rate regulator although I've gone 2ZZ injectors, return rail and the emanage blue to control fuel. Still not sure the best way to map it - do I just add the injector size to a blank map to start with or upload the nearest spec map I can find?
I'm on waste gate spring pressure at around 6 or 7 psi so I'm told by the previous owner.

Also got the fuel lines clipped up, gear oil in and new oil pressure sender unit in (then broke the wire connector on the actual unit so need a new one)

Tomorrows tasks, engine oil, new positive battery connector, fuel in and test the system for leaks, bleed clutch again, front bumper on, crank engine and check for oil leaks (hopefully). If that all works I'll fire it and hopefully everything will work.
After it's seats and harnesses back in, wheels on, spanner check everything and book MOT

Any emanage advice gratefully received.