Quote from: Craigjm on Today at 14:19Does the EML go off automatically in these cars when the issue is solved or do they need to be reset by the code reader?

Bit of both I Believe. Not that, that helps much.

So... Something to do with pressure... Why did putting my brake bleeder hose on this make it work?

Also, clearly a hose has come off here and is spraying out oil...

Okay this is weird..?

'Trying to crank' or 'cranking over fine - no ignition'?  If it's the first case, check battery.  If the second you could have an immobiliser issue, or a lack of fuel???

Okay thanks, I'm told it is still trying to crank but just not taking.

Need to put a voltmeter on it.  Healthy battery standing around 12.6V.  Get someone to watch the meter & crank the engine, - how far does it drop down?   Engine running & alternator charging, approx 14.4V.

Not sure if this is alternator, battery or something else, but my 1zz has been struggling to start over the last two days and then today it didn't start at all and needed to be pushed - and then it did start. What is the most likely culprit before I drive over to where it is?

Thanks

Quote from: simonrobinson on Today at 13:54I have my MOT tomorrow, cat pipe is made and badly diy welded up, Vbands seal good.
Got the AFR's sitting flat as you can get at the idle and fast idle.

Fast idle:-


Tickover:-



Terrible welding:-


Fingers crossed it does it, but it still smells a bit petrolly. I'm getting that car in the MOT bay with that cat glowing red.

Now I'm thinking if there is a tiny air leak that is getting into the wideband sensor then the MOT test machine lambda values will not match my AFR's, and than I should just change my target AFR table.

If you think that's bad welding you should see some on an exhaust I bought from a main manufacturer 😂

Godspeed