Overwinter storage

[BARNPOT2000]

I will be sorning my 2 over winter, just wondered if anyone who does this does anything to the tyres to avoid problems or is it OK to leave parked in the garage as normal? Also I've just bought a trickle charger, problem is my garage has no power and is quite remote from a 240 supply, so can't leave it on 24/7. Is it OK to just run an extension cable, say once a month, to leave it on charge for 24 hrs at a time perhaps?

[Dev]

They say it's a good idea to inflate the tires to 36-40 psi to avoid flat spots.
As far as battery storage I would disconnect it to avoid parasitic drain. Better yet if you can remove the battery after a full charge and bring it inside a heated home for storage. It should last more than three months without having to top it off.

[BARNPOT2000]

They say it's a good idea to inflate the tires to 36-40 psi to avoid flat spots.
As far as battery storage I would disconnect it to avoid parasitic drain. Better yet if you can remove the battery after a full charge and bring it inside a heated home for storage. It should last more than three months without having to top it off.

Thank you Dev. I'll do that, battery inside sounds like a good idea. 👍

[McMr2]

I will be sorning my 2 over winter, just wondered if anyone who does this does anything to the tyres to avoid problems or is it OK to leave parked in the garage as normal? Also I've just bought a trickle charger, problem is my garage has no power and is quite remote from a 240 supply, so can't leave it on 24/7. Is it OK to just run an extension cable, say once a month, to leave it on charge for 24 hrs at a time perhaps?

I disconnect the battery and check it every few weeks - it's relatively easy to remove which might make your life easier. As far as tyres go I get the car up on stands and let it all hang free for the sake of the wheel bearings and tyres.Good excuse to get underneath and give all some tlc.

[Carolyn]

What I've done.  Oversized car cover with cotton lining, so it doesn't mark the paint. Trickle charger on the isolated battery.  Fuel conditioner in the tank. Roll back and forth occasionally to prevent flat spots. Spray the cam cover with WD to prevent it going furry with oxide.  Handbrake off, so pads don't stick to the discs.  I may yet put her on jack stands...

[Gaz2405]

I usually have mine in a smart charger over winter.

It's garaged, but last year I did get quite a build up of rust on and around my hubs.

Most likely something to do with burning the bushes out and not protecting them again.

[Joesson]

They say it's a good idea to inflate the tires to 36-40 psi to avoid flat spots.
As far as battery storage I would disconnect it to avoid parasitic drain. Better yet if you can remove the battery after a full charge and bring it inside a heated home for storage. It should last more than three months without having to top it off.

The first winter my 2 was on old wheels / tyres, the next winter I sold the wheels and tyres and bought axle stands and a trolly jack and used them. I have also over inflated the tyres which is a good call if you are not going to be working under the car. I do leave myself a reminder note on the steering wheel. In gear, hand brake off.
Fuel is around a quarter tank, no additives. Once or twice I have put a couple of gallons of Super in the tank prior to storage but no noticeable difference. The car has always started at first turn.
For covering I have an old bedding sheet that is topped with 3 double and one single old bedding duvets/ quilts.
The battery is in situ, negative disconnected, the garage is partially attached to the house and so not freezing cold inside. I use a Lidl smart charger. Variously permanently connected or the battery is checked monthly/ when I remember.
This will be the thirteenth winter with much the same routine.

[Beachbum957]

Lots of really good advice. I learned about proper storage in the boat industry where long term storage was common. Our MR2 has been stored for 3-4 months every year for the past 16 years with no issues.

Battery: The ideal is get a maintenance charger / battery tender type charger (not a regular trickle charger) and leave it looked up.  Next best is take the battery out and keep it in a warm place and maybe charge occasionally. If that doesn't work, at least disconnect.

Fuel:  Add fuel stabilizer and run the car a bit to circulate in the fuel system.  While 3-4 months should be no problem without it, you don't know how old the gas is at storage, and adding stabilizer won't hurt anything.

Tires: The ideal is a second set of wheels and tires and store the good set in a warm dry place, especially if you have summer only tires that should not be stored in the cold.  That isn't practical for everyone, so pump the tires to 40-45 psi. You can buy storage ramps that have a curved area for the tire which also helps or you can roll back and forth if possible

Jack stands:  I avoid this as that allows the suspension to hang fully extended, which stresses all of the suspension bushings.  I would rather deal with flat spotted tires than suspension work.

Body: We wash the car before storage and make sure everything is completely dry, especially the brakes.  Store in a garage or loosely covered.  If you cover, make sure there is lot of air circulation possible under the cover.  If not, you will get lots of condensation and resulting rust and corrosion. It is a very common error.

Engine: In the boat industry we put fogging oil in the cylinders by pulling the plugs, spraying inside and turning the engine over, or spraying into the intake with the engine running. We don't bother with the MR2 as the storage period is relatively short.  But if you have a condensation issue from the storage location or are a bit paranoid, it might be a consideration.

Out of storage:  Set the tire pressures (forgot one spring), make sure the battery is fully changed, and drive gently until the engine gets to full temp and the tires warm.

[J88TEO]

I put silica gel desiccant bags in my 2 for the winter storage - lots of them.

[Dev]

The first winter my 2 was on old wheels / tyres, the next winter I sold the wheels and tyres and bought axle stands and a trolly jack and used them. I have also over inflated the tyres which is a good call if you are not going to be working under the car. I do leave myself a reminder note on the steering wheel. In gear, hand brake off.
Fuel is around a quarter tank, no additives. Once or twice I have put a couple of gallons of Super in the tank prior to storage but no noticeable difference. The car has always started at first turn.
For covering I have an old bedding sheet that is topped with 3 double and one single old bedding duvets/ quilts.
The battery is in situ, negative disconnected, the garage is partially attached to the house and so not freezing cold inside. I use a Lidl smart charger. Variously permanently connected or the battery is checked monthly/ when I remember.
This will be the thirteenth winter with much the same routine.

I was watching a video last night about a mechanic that bought a two year old extraordinarily well kept 911 that the previous owner spent $12K in services just for maintenance at the dealer. He was happy that the owner has taken good care but gave a lecture on how the industry works to target people of that mindset of excess.

What I am getting at is I have let some of my own storage routine laps from time to time and I have made some observations to what is beneficial and what might not be but we tend to do them because of our faith in what we read where it becomes more ritualistic for the fear of regret. It also depends on the car and its special needs.

One time I did not use fuel stabilizer for storage of four months and my car started right up. I did not pump up my tires and my tires were fine but like all things rubber they start to rot on the day they have been manufactured. Even if you get flat spots they will be fine once they are driven. My suspension has weight on it because I read that having them hang might not be good for the seals. I do not know if that is true or not but leaving it sitting with weight on the tires never cause any observable problem. It is obvious that there is parasitic drain with the battery connected and having a good battery monitor is essential. I will be on year 8 with my battery.

The big things I have noticed with preservation is garaged kept. If you have the ability to have the car in an insulated garage where you do not get any morning frost and temperature swings it makes all the difference in the world compared to a car that sits outside and gets weathered. I seen the difference first hand when one of my cars that was garaged kept for five years was demoted to sit outside and after two years it aged fast everywhere.

If I did not have a garage I would spend money on a premium insulated cover. I have seen an owner that did that and the car was immaculate. Some owners take it to the extreme with nitrogen bubble kits.
The MR2 is the oldest car I have ever kept and so far I think I have done a great job with its practical preservation. It's far from a show car as far as being blemish free but I try to stop time as much as possible and maybe one day twenty years from now it will get a full restoration.

[BARNPOT2000]

I put silica gel desiccant bags in my 2 for the winter storage - lots of them.

That sounds like a good idea, condensation seems to be an issue with my 2.

[Ardent]

Sure someone here uses something along the lines of a tesco damp trap.

[BARNPOT2000]

Sure someone here uses something along the lines of a tesco damp trap.

I've tried the reusable silica gel packs but I think a mini dehumidifier would be better, just haven't located one yet.

[Dev]

I've tried the reusable silica gel packs but I think a mini dehumidifier would be better, just haven't located one yet.

I would advise against it because active dehumidifiers, depending on which one you get can be a fire hazard.
Passive ones like reusable silica gel are better.

[BARNPOT2000]

I would advise against it because active dehumidifiers, depending on which one you get can be a fire hazard.
Passive ones like reusable silica gel are better.

Good point. I've just been out and the screen inside is soaking wet. Started the car, turned the fan and heater up full and left it running for 5 or 10mins seems like a quick way to keep things drier. Thinking about doing that once or more a month to help dry it when it's in storage, that wouldn't be detrimental to the engine, getting it up to temperature, every now and then would it?

[Beachbum957]

If you store in a garage, there is another possible consideration depending on how tightly the garage is sealed up.  Critters, specifically mice. We have found mouse nests in cars stored in a large garage.  Some repellents work fairly well, but traps are more final.

[Dev]

Good point. I've just been out and the screen inside is soaking wet. Started the car, turned the fan and heater up full and left it running for 5 or 10mins seems like a quick way to keep things drier. Thinking about doing that once or more a month to help dry it when it's in storage, that wouldn't be detrimental to the engine, getting it up to temperature, every now and then would it?

 Best thing to use is the AC as that will absorb the moisture in the cabin or just the defroster as that will also initiate the AC.
As far as starting the car every month or just letting it sit there are a lot of things in the internet that goes either way and no good consensus.
I would say it probably does not make that much of a difference for a semi modern car.  On one hand a cold starts are not good and on the other hand if it's not started regularly you might clog the injectors and other things. I would say it is car dependent and our Toyotas are mostly resilient. 
 
 In your situation I would get a really good car cover that is weather sealed. I do not know much about them but I believe they will not let moisture in to permeate into the interior if it's on tight with the drawstrings they provide.
 I am lucky that my garage doors are insulated but it still gets cold, but it's mostly dry in the winter.
 I do have two electronic dry cabinets for my camera equipment. I do not know if they help but only time will tell.

[Beachbum957]

Unless you live in the desert, all air has significant moisture than can condense.  Years ago, the boat industry started shrink wrapping boats left outside for storage.  In the beginning, they made the wrap almost air tight.  In the spring, it was like it had rained inside, with water everywhere from condensation from heating and cooling the air.  They learned very quickly to add air channels or vents to let air circulate in and out. 

If you want to seal the car completely, get a storage bubble with an air circulation and filtration system.

[JB21]

I wish I had a garage 

Before winter storage I run mine as low as I dare on fuel, park on the drive, remove the wheels and throw it on axel stands, remove the battery, add a few of those large condensation bags to the front and rear of the cabin, cover the engine and gearbox with a large ikea bags and then cover it with my Halfords all-season car cover.

Never had any issues come the following year.

[BARNPOT2000]

If you store in a garage, there is another possible consideration depending on how tightly the garage is sealed up.  Critters, specifically mice. We have found mouse nests in cars stored in a large garage.  Some repellents work fairly well, but traps are more final.

That's a big consideration for me, I will invest in alot of mouse/rat traps to surround the car when in my shed.

[BARNPOT2000]

Best thing to use is the AC as that will absorb the moisture in the cabin or just the defroster as that will also initiate the AC.
As far as starting the car every month or just letting it sit there are a lot of things in the internet that goes either way and no good consensus.
I would say it probably does not make that much of a difference for a semi modern car.  On one hand a cold starts are not good and on the other hand if it's not started regularly you might clog the injectors and other things. I would say it is car dependent and our Toyotas are mostly resilient. 
 
 In your situation I would get a really good car cover that is weather sealed. I do not know much about them but I believe they will not let moisture in to permeate into the interior if it's on tight with the drawstrings they provide.
 I am lucky that my garage doors are insulated but it still gets cold, but it's mostly dry in the winter.
 I do have two electronic dry cabinets for my camera equipment. I do not know if they help but only time will tell.

sadly I do not have ac😒

[Dev]

sadly I do not have ac😒

 I wish my car did not have AC. I never use it and it's a good amount of weight I can take off.

[Ardent]

I wish my car did not have AC. I never use it and it's a good amount of weight I can take off.

Same here.

[Beachbum957]

Before winter storage I run mine as low as I dare on fuel,

You may wish to reconsider leaving the tank nearly empty.  The idea to prevent stale gas by leaving the tank empty is a decent one, but fuel stabilizer will remove that concern.  Stabilizer can easily keep gas usable for up to 2 years.

Nearly all experts recommend storing with a full tank.  The reason is simple.  If there is no gas, the tank is filled with air.  Air contains moisture, which can condense out with temperature changes and cause rust. Almost full, very little air and very little opportunity for condensation and rust.  I like working on our car, but changing a rusty fuel tank is not on the list.

Some owners just park the car for the winter, maybe throwing some cover on it, and maybe disconnecting the battery, and usually they are fine in the spring after charging the battery.  Usually, but not always.  A limited amount of prep work greatly improves the odds the car will be fine for the next season.

[Daytona]

I have put my 2 into an unheated concrete lock-up, have cars stored in heated garages too and outside.

Heated garaged cars I literally just wash, dry, indoor cover and trickle charge; never had any issues.

Unheated lock-up with no power, wash and dry car. Purchased an Oxford Solariser to keep battery topped up with wire out onto garage roof, place very loose waterproof/breatheable(?) cover over soft-top for any drips from roofing.

Cars outside, I just keep washed and top up spray on wax over Winter, I never cover a car outside as it ruins paintwork (esp if resprayed) and causes huge condensation issues in UK freeze/thaw conditions etc, may roll it every now and then on the drive.

I never start an engine over Winter unless I am going for a drive.