Subframe Bolt Crossthreading

[lukeydoo]

When putting the subframe on I had one bolt that went tight. I cleaned up the threads but it did not enjoy going in, though it torqued to spec fine. I may be removing the subframe in the future and would like this done properly to ensure it's 100% and be prepared for the worst case. Has anyone repaired similar? And how?

[Alex Knight]

I would remove it now and invest in a tap and die set to rectify.

[Carolyn]

As Alex says, run a tap up it, taking care to start the tap straight.  As I recall the thread is M12 x 1.25mm.  But do double check.  You only need to buy that one tap, which would not usually be in a standard tap and die set.

[lukeydoo]

I did run a taper tap up it, but I'll give it another go. I find I'm avoiding doing it and instead thinking about the creation of a service hatch in the firewall which would be much more work, just to avoid dealing with it!

[Joesson]

If the bolt was tight going in because of a damaged thread then torque values will not be correct.

[lukeydoo]

If the bolt was tight going in because of a damaged thread then torque values will not be correct.

It wasn't 'ugga dugga' difficult to get in, just not as easy as the other three. I had Andy Ball check it and he was happy with it, but I understand it may not be exactly what the torque value should be.

[lukeydoo]

Are there pictures of what the internals look like? If I had to cut a small hole and weld a new nut on, it wouldn't be the end of the world.

[Joesson]

Are there pictures of what the internals look like? If I had to cut a small hole and weld a new nut on, it wouldn't be the end of the world.

Sounds like it will not want to come out by itself in which case I would be inclined to leave well enough alone.
Should you need to remove the subframe at sometime in the future then would be the time for any rectification.
Unless you really like opening cans of worms.
I'd certainly leave it until next year!