Crank shaft sensor?

Am in the same position as you with engines. My rebuilt engine is out and on a stand after having spun a bearing on number 4 . hope to take head and timing cover off next week end, Hope i can see what went wrong....

I'm back fit again having completed my rehab from the spinal fracture. Strength is back to where it was, but at 40yrs old now - the flexibility will never come back.

After the last engine failure I had taken 6mths off all things cars, and got my thrills from a few visits to the mountains and doing Via Ferratas, trying to build back strength and fitness.

Finally got around to working on the car this weekend. I do love how easy it is to drop an engine out of an MR2, even without an engine hoist. An IKEA trolley is very useful! 2.5hrs doing that by myself, without rushing and with a hangover. However there is a bit of cheat with the bulkhead hatch.

Going to start stripping the engine this week to try and understand what failed.

I've no debris in the drained oils and the coolant looks fine too. Oil was still golden.









Not sure where I go from here though. I've lost all trust in the 2ZZ as a race capable engine. However it's important to understand what failed, so....

Quote from: ty222 on December  9, 2023, 10:34Hi guys

I'm really having no luck with my 2 lately, this week it's been driving well and then it got to Wednesday and the car wouldn't start

Seems to turn over fine, I even tried jumper cables, but no start .

I have since replaced all spark plugs and nothing.

Any ideas on what I should try next please ?the turnover seems powerful and consistent and I have half a tank if fuel. Toad immobilizer is off or it wouldn't crank. I am sad!

Sorry to ask the obvious but have you had any warning lights/codes?

Were you working on anything on the car around the same time, even if seemingly unrelated?

@ty222

As above "To start the engine you need fuel and sparks".
You replaced your plugs so they should be good to go.
Fuel in the right place needs to be determined.
However , these need to be synchronised.
In 60 years I have had such a problem three times.
Once with a gear driven cam shaft, once with a belt driven and once with a chain drive.
The sprockets had worn, the chain slipped and the car would not start.
I found that because air was blowing out of the carburettor as the engine was turned over.
I have not read of such wear on our 2 / 1ZZ,  but!

The electronic ignition could, perhaps,  be out of sync , can't help with that, as unlike a distributor there's not much to see.

As above, "Good luck".

If it is not the immobiliser then the search must go back to basics.  To start the engine you need fuel and spark.  Check your sparkies and also make sure fuel is getting to the injectors or the rail.  Good luck!

   well with a new roof and side bags done then you are giving your 2 the best chance of no water leaks and make your 2 fresh looking as well  

if you do suffer any more problems that i drought you will then they will defiantly be cheaper to fix

Guys I'm quite confident it's not my immobiliser, my immobiliser goes green as it should and the red light disappears showing it's disarmed . I can then hear the whirring noise stop as normal.

The www has several articles on Toad immobilisers including instructions, You Tube videos and this :
https://www.google.co.uk/url?q=https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/techtalk/toad-immobiliser-refuses-dis-arm&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwj_mJiJzYKDAxXpXUEAHUtmBJ4QFnoECAQQAg&usg=AOvVaw3FVSCPlcoy9jnj37EMWR-4

My immobiliser is toad but I'm sure that's working because mine doesn't even turn over unless the clutch is in and the bottom left button has disarmed it.

I don't believe it's got a standard one as it's an import and even the key is custom.

I'll go and check the fuel pump has power next I guess.its just crazy it was working fine without any hiccup and now this, I just love winter