Started by bobbe, July 4, 2023, 19:00
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Quote from: Alex Knight on July 5, 2023, 23:24My advice is to take note of all the existing codes.Clear the codes, take it for a decent drive. See what (if any) codes come back.
Quote from: fawtytoo on July 5, 2023, 21:52Even if the error codes point to the MAF, why does the mis-fire only happen after the stall? Does something happen to the MAF when it stalled, or is it something else that makes it look like the MAF?Could something have come loose when it stalled?
Quote from: bobbe on July 15, 2023, 11:23This is what I don't understand about it - it drove smoothly and normally without any hints of a problem until it stalled. Immediately after the stall it ran rough, then engine lights came on
Quote from: mr2garageswindon on July 5, 2023, 14:14Not crank sensor earth?
Quote from: normanh on July 15, 2023, 18:36Bobbe you have had numerous words of wisdom offered as to possible solutions but have you actually tried any of them to date. Nearly all are so simple and really dont required a masters degree in motor mechanics to check. You just keep asking the same question sorry but you seem to be ignoring any possible solutions. Theres years of solid experience being offered here all be it various possible solutions based on individuals past experiences. You might think me a bit harsh in my comments but its the truth. I have been perfecting my skills for 50 plus years taught by my late father.Norman
Quote from: shnazzle on July 15, 2023, 20:16Feeling the frustration. Been there for sure. Numerous times.Applying some simple logic... whether it helps or not...code 300 usually will trigger 301-304, so that narrows down the codes.Both banks going lean at the same time and all 4 cylinders misfiring is rather unlikely indeed. It's something "wider" then.The common culprits have been highlighted. MAF and crank for sensors, and one of the many intake hoses having come loose. Particularly the one into the blue valve above the airbox.In order of how common...- the crank sensor negative connection is known to corrode and form a bad connection. Misfires would 100% be a consequence of that. And subsequent stalling.- in my (far too long) time on this forum I think I've seen 2 MAFs go. They get gunked up. But fail? Hardly. Putting this as #2 because it's very easy to clean, reset ECU and check whether it fixed it. You've done this, so just documenting for posterity - intake hoses; these buggers are often popping off. Depending on where the car is kept they get quite brittle and tend to just drop off. This has happened to 3 of our 4 MR2s. If if falls off on the intake side, you have an unwanted source or unmetered air, making the car run lean, which can lead to misfires. - o2 sensors: these bastards...these banes of all mr2 owner's lives. Their heating elements fail as a matter of sheer entertainment to Denso and Toyota. Just to mess with your head. But the o2 sensor itself? They age and slow down, but complete failure isn't massively common. And if they do, the symptoms are localised.In the above is my order of checking. The crank sensor unfortunately being a bit of a pain to get to, but not silly difficult.I do hope you get to the bottom of it. If only to satisfy my curiosity, but mostly so that you can maximise what you get for the car...or hell...keep it.