Started by inigopete, September 25, 2023, 11:01
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Quote from: inigopete on September 25, 2023, 11:01Leaning toward Rainsports as I'll be driving the car in most weathers and some long motorway journeys and want good all-weather performance rather than crazy track grip
Quote from: inigopete on September 25, 2023, 11:01I've been lurking on here for quite a few months, researching and learning, and through the summer I've been avidly watching eBay listings, AutoTrader and Facebook marketplace looking for an MR2 of my own....and today I went to collect her.Meet Eliana, my blue* 2001 PFL. It's seen a fair bit of life but it's been well looked-after. It had just over 148,000 miles on the odometer, which would definitely have put me off if I hadn't read some of the advice on here, but it also had only two previous owners and a regular and complete service history up to 110,000 miles and a fairly complete history beyond that, including a recent partial exhaust replacement and a new roof.IMG_4231 by Pete Owen, on FlickrThe good stuff:- bodywork all pretty straight, VIN stickers all matching- engine sounds OK, starts first time- everything works - lights, power steering, ABS, rear window heater, A/C, original radio, aerial etc.- it's pretty much stock, as far as I can tell- new-ish soft topThe bad stuff:- it's got three different brands of cheap tyres on it- there's a few chips in the bonnet paintwork- it's missing one bolt for the grill tray so it rattles!- it's got one odd single rust hole in the o/s rear wing- headlamps are a bit cloudy- engine light is on- handbrake does hold but is at the top of its travelI'm aware of the handbrake issue and it's not an urgent thing but one to have a go at when I've got a spare weekend. The tyre thing is a bit more pressing, given how sensitive these cars seem to be to tyre choice and pressure. It felt a little odd when I took it for the test drive, I thought maybe the power steering wasn't quite right - and then once I'd picked it up I checked the pressures and the fronts were at about 19 and the rear 21! So inflating those to the right pressures (28f, 32r, is that right?) definitely improved the slightly sluggish feel.I'm slightly concerned by the engine light - mainly because my choice of OBD reader doesn't seem to recognise the car. Does anyone have any experience with the FIXD reader and app (on iOS)? Their database seems to be very US-centric and doesn't recognise the car's VIN.Obviously she needs new tyres. Currently the front are "Champiro UHP-1", rear ns is a "Mohawk M105" and os is a "Accelera PHI-R". I've never heard of them, I think they're budget options and probably known as "ditchfinders", especially when that mis-matched. I know this is a much-debated topic on here, I'm looking for something all-round (lol) rather than something like the Proxes which seem to be described as "extreme summer performance" tyres. Leaning toward Rainsports as I'll be driving the car in most weathers and some long motorway journeys and want good all-weather performance rather than crazy track grip.I'm pretty sure the tracking's not right - might be the tyres, but at some speeds it feels like the front wheels are pointing in slightly different directions and the car seems to choose which one to give traction to, pulling slightly to one side then the other. Is this what's known as "tramlining"? I'm planning on getting all four wheels pointed in the right direction when I get the tyres changed... soon!Overall I'm very happy with the car so far. She looks a lot better after my son and I gave her a thorough clean and polish yesterday and cleaned the soft top with Meguiars. My next step is showing the moving bits some love. There's not a lot of oil in there - I filed some grooves in the dipstick and it's on about 1/4 up the markers when cold, so I hastily bought some Comma XTech 5w30 - so another question will be "what oil"? I'll drain and change the oil and filter later this week, top up the coolant (Toyota pink?), check and clean the plugs and filters... anything else I should do while the car's off the ground?As ever, I'd appreciate any advice you can offer. * colour code 08M6 - Spectra Blue?
QuoteIt could be the MAF, but .. here's what the BGB lists: Injector leak, blockage Mass air flow meter Engine coolant temp. sensor Ignition system Fuel pressure Gas leakage on exhaust system Open or short in heated oxygen sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1) circuit Heated oxygen sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1)What it's actually telling you is that according to the O2 sensors, the built in map is causing the engine to run rich. When it does so, the ECU starts to remove fuel and eventually stops removing it when the O2 sensors go back to reading 'stoic' (14.7:1 air/fuel ratio) under closed-loop conditions.The fuel trims are then stored and are applied continually - in closed and open loop.The ECU doesn't light a CEL until the adjustment is more than +/-38%.So what your ECU is telling you is that it has removed 38% of the fuel from your fuel maps - if this is a sensor fault, then you are now running very very lean, dangerously lean in fact - fortunately you have a knock sensor that will also retard timing if it's so lean the engine begins to knock (which it almost certainly would be) so you'll just be losing power and heating things up a lot more than you otherwise would.This particular CEL uses 2-trip detection logic, so if you clear it you'll need to drive at least twice before it will come back on.Personally I would be tempted to do what Stu says, but not simply reset it and then forget about it - reset it and start checking components.First: Make sure the O2 sensors are operating correctly (if you only have a code reader rather than an OBD-II scantool, you'll need to use a multimeter) - their output should flipflop between <0.4V and >0.55V.Secondly: Check for exhaust leaks upstream of the O2 sensors (between the head and O2 sensors) - though I would expect that to light a "Too LEAN" code, rather than too rich.Thirdly: See if you can borrow a MAF - they're not cheap, unfortunately.
QuoteMR2.com says:Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age.Interestingly in the same article it also says if the car thinks the O2 sensor is faulty it will not switch to closed loop operation and will therefore run rich in open loop on the Base map, but wouldn't you get an error code if an O2 sensor was not working properly?
Quote from: inigopete on October 5, 2023, 13:22@Gaz mr-s you're a star - thank you! - that did the trick...
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on October 5, 2023, 13:57So why didn't you heed Hankook or Falken advice? According to tests, the Fleva aren't near as good.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on October 5, 2023, 13:57Unplugging the sensors should've brought on the EML. In terms of them working, use an OBD that can look at the Sensor voltages. The manifold sensors spike fast. They should be comparable. Torque pro to an Android phone does, for instance.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on October 5, 2023, 13:57Did you take note of MAF cleaning above?