It's done. Thanks to Rhys. Beyond my physical strength. Rhys obviously had his weetabix. 

Sorry, bad cut and paste.  The part number is energy suspension 16.6101

https://teamenergysuspension.com/?s=16.6101

What it looks like installed. It replaces the OEM insulator


Here is where the bump stop was cut.

Quote from: Beachbum957 on July 24, 2024, 19:58We are running H&R springs and have about a 25 mm drop front and rear.  We run a slightly thicker front spring insulator (Energy Suspension 16.610) that raised the front a small amount to give a bit more travel.  We also cut the front bump stop 25 mm to just under the groove for the boot, also to get more travel.  The rear bump stop was not modified.

A problem with lowering springs is they have a stiffer spring rate than OEM and the damping rates on OEM type struts like KYB don't match well with the higher rates.  We had much better performance with Koni inserts as they have less compression damping and adjustable rebound.

I got curious about the Energy Suspension products you mentioned. But can't seem to find the exact number you are referring to. Is is this vendor? Or maybe even this article nr? It is the closest I can find.
 https://teamenergysuspension.com/product/energy-suspension-16-6104g-front-spring-isolator-set/

Quote from: Petrus on Yesterday at 08:40Ah, many such twisties about where you drive?   

Yes, on smooth and twisties, the ride is pefect ( I have TRD ABRs ), very slight body roll.

Quote from: J88TEO on July 25, 2024, 09:09On smooth roads, they are perfect.

Ah, many such twisties about where you drive?   

Over here the roads a generally véry well maintained but the nature of mountains means that for spirited driving over mountain twisties, ground clearance, wheel travel and good conformation are higher on the list than anti-roll and/or stiffness.

Quote from: Jay on July 25, 2024, 21:05Cheers Alex, what fettling is required?

I cut about 8cm off the back with a jigsaw (and trimmed the rubber gasket accordingly).

The back of it should then just slip under the brace, and the front clips keep it in place as normal.

Cheers Alex, what fettling is required?

Wouldn't mind retaining the storage space!

Quote from: Jay on July 25, 2024, 18:08Had to delete the frunk completely as the TRD brace is not friendly with it.  Alarm now moved to the exterior.

It definitely is compatible with some quick fettling:

Took a few comparison pics of the old and new racks/joints.  I decided to import a fresh one from Japan as the condition of stuff is massively different than what I see locally.










I did have to remove and refit my steering wheel to get everything pointing straight again.  Will revisit that once I've attempted MOT and got it near an alignment ramp.

Took a bit of time and wire-brushed as much rust as I could then coated it in underbody stone-chip.  Took the bad look off it at least. Had to delete the frunk completely as the TRD brace is not friendly with it.  Alarm now moved to the exterior.



Quite a nice night so I had a few beers to celebrate

Thanks. Not something I can do on racks on the floor.