I have replaced stock Ant Roll Bars Front and Rear with up-rated (thicker) Whiteline bars as the stock units were very badly corroded. I would have replace with OE bars but they were silly money in the UK and even sillier from Japan (shipping cost went through the roof due to their size - additional £180 shipping odd)
The issue I have is the nylok nuts which fit on the Drop Link ball joint threaded studs after passing through the flat section of the (thicker) ARB do not go into "safety" - ie the nut does not tighten down until thread passes through the nylon nut collar and into "safety" (in aero engineering terms that means there is 1.5 threads exposed beyond the nut). There are no washers beneath the ARM to remove to get more thread section on the nut side of the ARB.
Has anyone else replaced their ARB's with the Whiteline uprated ARB's and face the same issue?
As an initial fix, I used threadlok (glue) on the threads and tightened them up to the require torque - which was achieved. I don't think its going anywhere anytime soon, but as an aircraft engineer, I'd never be happy with this in the air!
The only solution I can see is obtaining drop links with longer ball joint bolt lengths - but wouldn't know where to start looking for these - what even is the standard length - I didn't measure them.
I post some pics of the issue. Any suggestions gratefully received...
Front ARB to Drop Links:
General View
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51019754073_8434b1f5f2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJrzoi)P1140859 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJrzoi) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Nut fitted & Torqued
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51019754158_91cf564bfa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJrzpL)P1140850 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJrzpL) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Nut fitted & Torqued
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51020455881_bfec81f0e7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJvb1r)P1140855 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJvb1r) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Rear ARB to Drop Links
General View
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51020480851_1da75c74d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJviqX)P1140866 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJviqX) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Close up sowing no thread protruding
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51020518926_20eb109504_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJvuKq)P1140875 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJvuKq) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
If anyone else has done this job and "solved it" I'd be grateful to know. Thanks.
I'll have a look at mine tomorrow to see what they look like. Don't remember having this issue when adjusting the rear bar though.
You may need some uprated links or just some OE ones with extended threads.
I don't reckon those drop links are the full ticket. Don't remember any body having an issue like this.
I've read about this on a Facebook group, - more than one mention. Could you use half-nuts?
Do you still have the OE bar? If so what is the thickness of the flat section?
Any difference would account for the loss of available thread.
But the difference in thickness would need to be significant, by the thickness of the nylon insert or more.
As
@1979scotte suggests maybe the link is not correct/ the same as OE.
I don't have the original bars but they were significantly thinner at the mount points - sufficient for the loss of thread inside the nylok nuts.
It's possible the links are not great - nor OE standard. They were replaced when I had my struts replaced - they had to be ground off!
I have done a bit more research and from spyderchat a number of people who fitted the thicker bars (whiteline, Addco or Saner's) often ran out of thread.
TWO's R Us stock replacement front and rear replacement drop links with super long threads are available so I may get myself a set of them.
Here's a pic of the "high&tight" sway bar end links installed
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51020948287_29272e0a79_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJxGoc)high&tight end links (https://flic.kr/p/2kJxGoc) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Buying stock drop links is a gamble as I can't see they ever state the bolt length on the adverts - might end up with short ones again!
Thanks for your observations.
Mine are like OPs.
The bolts are ever so much better fitting through the hole that I thought it no issue and simply put a bit of Loctite on the thread.
Quote from: virginpaul on March 9, 2021, 23:11I don't have the original bars but they were significantly thinner at the mount points - sufficient for the loss of thread inside the nylok nuts.
It's possible the links are not great - nor OE standard. They were replaced when I had my struts replaced - they had to be ground off!
I have done a bit more research and from spyderchat a number of people who fitted the thicker bars (whiteline, Addco or Saner's) often ran out of thread.
TWO's R Us stock replacement front and rear replacement drop links with super long threads are available so I may get myself a set of them.
Buying stock drop links is a gamble as I can't see they ever state the bolt length on the adverts - might end up with short ones again!
Thanks for your observations.
The longer bolt also allows room for a washer, I do like to see a washer or two.
Mine are same its not ideal but never come loose, i check them every time im working on car prepping before a trackday and i think first time they moved a tiny bit probably just the powdercoating on bar softened though.
You can get whiteline drop links which have longer threaded section but they are pricey for what they are, there maybe other options as well i seem to remember somebody saying the oe toyota links were longer threaded than 3rd party ones but might of been a different car. Drop of threadlock as mentioned above another idea.
Thanks for all your responses. The front links currently fitted had the same length bolt section as the OE ones they replaced - I din't see them to compare as they were changed when I had the struts changed (had to be cut off by my mates garage team.
The bolts as installed have threadlock and are to spec torque. They are probably fine, as it's not a daily drive and I'll never track her, but as an Aircraft Engineer by trade I just can't accept a bolt not comfortably in safety.
Mine is the profession where locking is king - be it stiff nuts, nylok's, tang washers, split pinned or wire locking. Its a life and death thing on an aircraft and more so on a rotary (all the vibration!). I will see if I can get a pair of the High&Tight beefy bar links from MR2's R Us shipped over and of course, report back on here.
Thanks again everyone - got to love this forum.
I would have an issue with the nylock in the 2nd picture as it is if its fully torqued up as the actual nylock hasnt been engauged this would not be effective.
Norman
I would consider those an unsafe fixing, an MOT examiner should pick up on that ineffective nyloc nut
Paul - are you using unsealed rose-joints in this configuration my understanding on these is they are not weather proof and wont last 10 minutes in our weather. Was told years back some Lambos had these and needed changing before a 1000 miles which might get you to Scotland and back.
Norman
Unrelated but, if you can be bothered, can you pop a review in of your K-Sports?
For those upset with the nut: The nylon bit only does thát; lock. It does not add any better bolting down. Locking fluid does the exact same at the nylon bit.
Yes, an MOT inspector might object and a normal nut with locking fluid would sort that.
Not sure I would agree with you, by all means use a plain nut, but it would need a lockwasher to be safe, and ensure the thread of the bolt is fully into the nut. You have a lot more faith in locking fluid than I have.
Quote from: scm2004red on March 11, 2021, 16:06Not sure I would agree with you, by all means use a plain nut, but it would need a lockwasher to be safe, and ensure the thread of the bolt is fully into the nut. You have a lot more faith in locking fluid than I have.
Locking fluid is perfectly reliable. It comes in varous strengths and for this the trusty blue will do.
Now if you are old school, by all means drill the nut and use locking wire. Still a lot simpler/cheaper and just as safe as buying fancy ones.
I still have a roll of locking wire though can´t remember where the special ´pump´ pliers are :-(
Quote from: Petrus on March 11, 2021, 16:15Quote from: scm2004red on March 11, 2021, 16:06Not sure I would agree with you, by all means use a plain nut, but it would need a lockwasher to be safe, and ensure the thread of the bolt is fully into the nut. You have a lot more faith in locking fluid than I have.
Locking fluid is perfectly reliable. It comes in varous strengths and for this the trusty blue will do.
Now if you are old school, by all means drill the nut and use locking wire. Still a lot simpler/cheaper and just as safe as buying fancy ones.
I still have a roll of locking wire though can´t remember where the special ´pump´ pliers are :-(
In this day and age where cars are bonded together with glue stronger than aluminium I'm sure it's fine.
Not ideal maybe or what one would prefer but sound enough.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 11, 2021, 18:09In this day and age where cars are bonded together with glue stronger than aluminium I'm sure it's fine.
Not ideal maybe or what one would prefer but sound enough.
Hint; wings - airplanes... :-)
Love the responses. The nylok portion is just the anti vibration locking. The bolts are secured initially by the correct toque setting for the material and diameter.
In mine, and it seems a number of owners on here cases, thread lock has been applied to the cleaned faces. This "should" effect the same anti vibration locking as the nylon.
For me, it's safe. But, for me also, it's not forever. It's not per design and as I've said, I'm an aircraft engineer and want to see the bolts in safety, especially nylok. So for the short term, I'll tolerate it. An MOT inspector might indeed fail it. My garage owning buddy will hopefully chat the chap through what was done. Long term I will replace. I have until August! If I replace with beefy bar links, and they come with plain nuts, I'll either use nyloks or apply thread-lok and use the standards.
Incidentally, nylok locking devices are only used in some simple interior stuff on aircraft. They don't perform well at temperature! I've always considered them a rather cheap solution. Thread lok is, as others have pointed out, as good as, or even better than a nylok nut at anti vibration locking
Any thing control system or structural related would be - US aircraft - wire locked (and I still have my snap on wire twisters and both Airframe/Engine wire and Avionic wire!) or British Aircraft - drilled bolts and castellated nuts with split pins (the bane of my young apprenticeship years working on BAC one-elevens and even Airbus wings and landing gears).
It was interesting to discover others have been where I tread. The beauty of this board and Org.
Quote from: normanh on March 10, 2021, 22:38Paul - are you using unsealed rose-joints in this configuration my understanding on these is they are not weather proof and wont last 10 minutes in our weather. Was told years back some Lambos had these and needed changing before a 1000 miles which might get you to Scotland and back.
Norman
Hi Norman, no, the pic of the high&tight was from another owners post ref the same issue. Currently all my balljoints are sealed (ooh missus). They do a fully SS version for "the rust belt". Still toying with options for a final fix!
I have the solution....
As Petrus reminded me. Nothing like a bit of aircraft wirelocking.
So I ordered a pair of front links with solid spanner bases (not the daft Alan key drilled bolts) and drilled the nuts in readiness (2 holes, 180 degrees apart)...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51055766417_13ba01d8d4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kMC9AM)Old School Aircraft Wirelocking (https://flic.kr/p/2kMC9AM) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
and I've dug out my twisters and aircraft spec mechanical wire (can't find my Snap-On ones, must have sold them when I came off the tools, these'll have to do)....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51055686326_5c686c84e4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kMBJMU)Old School Aircraft Wirelocking (https://flic.kr/p/2kMBJMU) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Just got to get her up on jacks and change them over.... I'll add some threadlok blue for full "belt and braces" approach.
Excuse my ignorance, but where is the locking effect? Presumably just poking a wire through the 2 holes isn't sufficient it must be tied to something to prevent nut undoing, I assume it isn't like a split pin through the whole assembly.
Quote from: scm2004red on March 21, 2021, 11:45Excuse my ignorance, but where is the locking effect? Presumably just poking a wire through the 2 holes isn't sufficient it must be tied to something to prevent nut undoing, I assume it isn't like a split pin through the whole assembly.
I have seen this on multiple nut/ bolt fixings but not used to secure a single item. I guess the wire must be secured to some anchor point for a single fixing.
I found this that confirms my thoughts but I don't think I would trouble myself.
https://www.onpointdyno.com/safety-wire-how-and-why/
Quote from: scm2004red on March 21, 2021, 11:45Excuse my ignorance, but where is the locking effect? Presumably just poking a wire through the 2 holes isn't sufficient it must be tied to something to prevent nut undoing,
...and thus it is, tied to something :-)
More precisely on the side holding the nut tight.
It is a tried and tested method since the dawn of securing fasteners, a biggy in racing rules/scrutineering, even in airplanes.
(https://qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-c84cbc2bf377f44a10a81fb9b222aad0)
Some additional info is that on Loctite's "Technology of Threaded Fasteners" page 40 is a nice chart of how long various locking methods last under vibration. You'll notice the spring type lockwasher lasted less time than the control.
Also NASA standard (NASA-STD-5020) says "Free spinning split lock and tooth lock washers provide minimal, if any, locking."
Ah and nylock should ideally be not reused. This why in racing or the air industry it does not count.
I understand the logic of wiring groups of fixings together or in series, having seen plenty of classic Bugattis and Bentleys where this practice is a feature, it was wiring a singleton that caused my query.
I was told a long time ago from friends that use to race motorcycles that the wire was necessary to pass race inspection for a couple of reasons. The bolts are arrested so they don't come undone due to vibrations causing an accident and for another reason which is if there is an accident the bolts do not go flying everywhere as they are all anchored together.
Quote from: scm2004red on March 21, 2021, 16:44it was wiring a singleton that caused my query.
Same principle.
After só many years of racing it still feels wrong to not lockwire an oil drain plug or filler cap p.e.
Petrus, those diagrams look like they are from CAAIP's! Well, almost - CAP561, Leaflet 55-100
As stated, for a singleton, it will need to be wired to a fixed point nearby - in my case, the anti roll bars spare adjustment hole as seen in the 2nd pic of my original post.
I will post a pic when complete.
Paul
Quote from: virginpaul on March 21, 2021, 22:48Petrus, those diagrams look like they are from CAAIP's! Well, almost - CAP561, Leaflet 55-100
Aye but Paul, I also have a big wing on my Spyder ;-)
Replaced the nuts on the front drop link to roll bar bushes with drilled ones. Used loktight Blue Threadlock and applied aircraft wire...
Offside
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51018443510_abe83e0d49_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJjRNo)IMG_6220 (https://flic.kr/p/2kJjRNo) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Nearside
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51002703239_06c0b22e90_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGWbLp)IMG_6217 (https://flic.kr/p/2kGWbLp) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
They are going nowhere!
Lock-craft :-)
Not saying they will come of or anything but i still dont like it..
Quote from: 105e on April 1, 2021, 13:16Not saying they will come of or anything but i still dont like it..
If he´d used normal non nylock nuts (as I have) you´d have never known.
Quote from: 105e on April 1, 2021, 13:16Not saying they will come of or anything but i still dont like it..
Lol, if you don't like it but fly anywhere "abroad", I'd start taking the ferry instead of flying.... just saying.
Quote from: virginpaul on April 1, 2021, 23:56Quote from: 105e on April 1, 2021, 13:16Not saying they will come of or anything but i still dont like it..
Lol, if you don't like it but fly anywhere "abroad", I'd start taking the ferry instead of flying.... just saying.
Bit of a problem there. At the moment Covid19 is not making it easy to get off the United Islands. Not making it easy to get anywhere further than one can see actually. Whát a pita; need to get a legal justification from one or other medical of legal pro friend for a Whiteline endlink bolts stressing drive!!
Quote from: virginpaul on April 1, 2021, 23:56Quote from: 105e on April 1, 2021, 13:16Not saying they will come of or anything but i still dont like it..
Lol, if you don't like it but fly anywhere "abroad", I'd start taking the ferry instead of flying.... just saying.
Go on a plane, far too dangerous, although when much younger i did foolishly accept a ride in a helicopter...
Quote from: 105e on April 2, 2021, 09:07Quote from: virginpaul on April 1, 2021, 23:56Quote from: 105e on April 1, 2021, 13:16Not saying they will come of or anything but i still dont like it..
Lol, if you don't like it but fly anywhere "abroad", I'd start taking the ferry instead of flying.... just saying.
Go on a plane, far too dangerous, although when much younger i did foolishly accept a ride in a helicopter...
...and that is about the limit of ultimate testing of any anti-vibration locking device...
Adjustable Drop Links (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RoadNutz-Rear-Adjustable-Drop-Links-x2-for-Toyota-MR2-1-8i-1999-2007-ZZW30/281940020171?fits=Model%3AMR2%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item41a4ef4bcb:g:mhMAAOSwSK1a~rMF)
These have a longer thread than OEM, are adjustable for length to get the correct angle and aren't ridiculously priced.
Quote from: Roj on April 3, 2021, 09:00Adjustable Drop Links (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RoadNutz-Rear-Adjustable-Drop-Links-x2-for-Toyota-MR2-1-8i-1999-2007-ZZW30/281940020171?fits=Model%3AMR2%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item41a4ef4bcb:g:mhMAAOSwSK1a~rMF)
These have a longer thread than OEM, are adjustable for length to get the correct angle and aren't ridiculously priced.
Still 100 coins more than a few drops of blue.
Quote from: Roj on April 3, 2021, 09:00Adjustable Drop Links (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RoadNutz-Rear-Adjustable-Drop-Links-x2-for-Toyota-MR2-1-8i-1999-2007-ZZW30/281940020171?fits=Model%3AMR2%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item41a4ef4bcb:g:mhMAAOSwSK1a~rMF)
These have a longer thread than OEM, are adjustable for length to get the correct angle and aren't ridiculously priced.
Do they do a front version? those are the rears. Thanks
Quote from: virginpaul on April 3, 2021, 11:32Quote from: Roj on April 3, 2021, 09:00Adjustable Drop Links (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RoadNutz-Rear-Adjustable-Drop-Links-x2-for-Toyota-MR2-1-8i-1999-2007-ZZW30/281940020171?fits=Model%3AMR2%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item41a4ef4bcb:g:mhMAAOSwSK1a~rMF)
These have a longer thread than OEM, are adjustable for length to get the correct angle and aren't ridiculously priced.
Do they do a front version? those are the rears. Thanks
They do. Try contacting Spring-loaded.co.uk, explain the situation and they should be able to help you out.
Apparently TCB also stock drop links with longer threads if the RoadNutz ones aren't suitable.
Quote from: Petrus on April 3, 2021, 10:28Quote from: Roj on April 3, 2021, 09:00Adjustable Drop Links (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RoadNutz-Rear-Adjustable-Drop-Links-x2-for-Toyota-MR2-1-8i-1999-2007-ZZW30/281940020171?fits=Model%3AMR2%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item41a4ef4bcb:g:mhMAAOSwSK1a~rMF)
These have a longer thread than OEM, are adjustable for length to get the correct angle and aren't ridiculously priced.
Still 100 coins more than a few drops of blue.
Quite, however the OP has already said they're not keen on using only threadlock.
Quote from: Roj on April 3, 2021, 12:15Quite, however the OP has already said they're not keen on using only threadlock.
The OP has already solved it with blue ánd wire (as I suggested).
But thanks for the link nonetheless. Someone else might want it.
Quote from: Petrus on April 3, 2021, 12:39Quote from: Roj on April 3, 2021, 12:15Quite, however the OP has already said they're not keen on using only threadlock.
The OP has already solved it with blue ánd wire (as I suggested).
But thanks for the link nonetheless. Someone else might want it.
I see that as a temporary solution tbh, and would assume the OP
does too, seeing as he is applying a/c standards to his car.
Two threads + wire locking + thread lock would be a perfectly acceptable bodge to get airborne. However it would result in a limitation, with recs likely deferred until scheduled second line maintenance, when the correct equipment would be sourced and installed. The links with the longer thread are a permanent solution.
I appreciate that most people would likely consider both solutions to be overkill though, myself included. I'd be happy with a nyloc halfnut on a car :)
Quote from: Roj on April 3, 2021, 16:23I see that as a temporary solution tbh, and would assume the OP
does too, seeing as he is applying a/c standards to his car.
Two threads + wire locking + thread lock would be a perfectly acceptable bodge to get airborne. However it would result in a limitation, with recs likely deferred until scheduled second line maintenance, when the correct equipment would be sourced and installed. The links with the longer thread are a permanent solution.
I appreciate that most people would likely consider both solutions to be overkill though, myself included. I'd be happy with a nyloc halfnut on a car :)
The nylock does just that. Providing ´locking´ with a bit of nylon.
The nylon bit serves no other fastening purpose.
A normal nut with Locktite blue is to ALL extends and purposes exactly the same.
Wiring is a time honoured fail safe which in many applications is mandatory because, unlike locking fluid ánd Nylock!!, it can be inspected.
Quote from: Petrus on April 3, 2021, 16:39Quote from: Roj on April 3, 2021, 16:23I see that as a temporary solution tbh, and would assume the OP
does too, seeing as he is applying a/c standards to his car.
Two threads + wire locking + thread lock would be a perfectly acceptable bodge to get airborne. However it would result in a limitation, with recs likely deferred until scheduled second line maintenance, when the correct equipment would be sourced and installed. The links with the longer thread are a permanent solution.
I appreciate that most people would likely consider both solutions to be overkill though, myself included. I'd be happy with a nyloc halfnut on a car :)
The nylock does just that. Providing ´locking´ with a bit of nylon.
The nylon bit serves no other fastening purpose.
A normal nut with Locktite blue is to ALL extends and purposes exactly the same.
Wiring is a time honoured fail safe which in many applications is mandatory because, unlike locking fluid ánd Nylock!!, it can be inspected.
I'm well aware of the purpose, function and application of nylocs, threadlock and locking wire, no need to remind me but thanks anyway :)
Interesting discussions- all of which I appreciate.
The application of wire in addition to thread lock presents a visible mode of positive locking (as has been said) to (as was my concern) an mot tester. That individual would not see the blue (probably), but may well see the nylok nut not fully engaged and "could" fail the mot. But they may also not know or appreciate what wirelocking is or does (not everyone clearly does) and may fail it on lack of understanding or use the line "it's not per design".
I could replace the nylok nuts with plain nuts, blued and wire locked, which removes the attention getter of ineffective nylon portion (because not engaged), but again, not per design could be sighted.
Having said all that I'm probably seriously overthinking the depth and detail of study an mot tester is likely to carry out!
So, although very happy with the security of my installation right now (in aviation terms, an approved "modification" or "alternate means of compliance", I consider it an "Acceptable Deferred Defect" with no time limit (as would be applied to aircraft) and ultimately would prefer rods with longer threads... so many thanks for all your inputs and parts leads, I really appreciate it. Happy flighting....
Paul
Quote from: virginpaul on April 5, 2021, 00:51But they may also not know or appreciate what wirelocking is or does (not everyone clearly does) and may fail it on lack of understanding or use the line "it's not per design".
A bit of a sad reminder of reality; that the tester very well might have lack of understanding...
Reality though, hence I decided against it. Fitted flat nuts with Loctite blue: As tight and locked as the nylock without two potential confusions for a tester.
The latter observation btw is a very real risc with after market adjustable ARBs anyway.
Same as with adjustable coil overs; those are a guaranteed fail over here.
I fitted white line anti roll bars a month ago and the nyloc fitting nuts just had enough length for the thread to get into the nyloc part but not past it. I looked up about using a thinner nut but they were already the thinner spec. The drop links I got were generic ones off eBay.
I have ordered a pair of identical but longer threaded ball joint front drop links from Spring Loaded - the chap on the phone knew exactly about this issue of too short a thread when using Whiteline updated anti roll bars - he recommended a Mitsubishi link. I will report when I receive and have fitted them.
I've just nipped my rears up and the my nylock hit the thread, only just mind but it got there - they were random eBay ones so lucky I guess
Final Fix!
Purchased 2 sets of droplinks from Springloaded (www.spring-loaded.co.uk) and fitted them this morning:
Fronts are Mitsubishi Motors 4056A044's instead of stock MR2 (RN-UPR-4):-
Comparison of Bolt Lengths:-
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51113199464_ffdf30410d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSGvrJ)IMG_6254 (https://flic.kr/p/2kSGvrJ) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Installed:-
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51112921462_be50382200_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSF5NA)Img_6272 (https://flic.kr/p/2kSF5NA) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
...and bolts nicely in safety...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51114239810_4173a2d3a9_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSMQGJ)Img_6274a (https://flic.kr/p/2kSMQGJ) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Rears are RN-ADJ110B MR2 Adjustables:-
Comparison of Bolt Lengths:-
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51113352733_f0b933ea1d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSHi1i)IMG_6262 (https://flic.kr/p/2kSHi1i) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Installed:-
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51113498736_c3f166c310_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSJ3pA)Img_6268 (https://flic.kr/p/2kSJ3pA) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
The rears had shoulder flats as opposed to Hex centers and needed an ultra slim spanner (17mm) - luckily, I dug out an old slim bike multi spanner to lock the ball ends whilst tightening the nuts:-
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51112877377_faa6bdcb5b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSERGv)Img_6270 (https://flic.kr/p/2kSERGv) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51113352718_9c33417f1b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSHi13)Img_6267 (https://flic.kr/p/2kSHi13) by virgin_pabs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/85015435@N00/), on Flickr
Thanks for everyone who inputted to this thread - although the wirelocking was sufficient - I didn't want an MOT tester who didn't get what it was (or even may have been unable to determine if it was locked or anti-locked - not casting any dispersion's on MOT testers.
Good work there, well done. ;D
@virginpaul That looks like a proper job now, but please confirm that the last picture is work in progress.
Now that looks better..
Quote from: Joesson on April 13, 2021, 15:26@virginpaul
That looks like a proper job now, but please confirm that the last picture is work in progress.
totally - the spanner is back in the box!
Glad you got it sorted. I haven't dealt with Spring Loaded personally but they were recommended elsewhere. Good to know they came through in the end.