hmm flat battery might be coming on

Started by archieatkins, February 28, 2010, 20:26

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Print
Go Down Pages1
User actions

archieatkins

February 28, 2010, 20:26 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Hey All!

So i was driving home tonight in the dark and thought i had my window slightly open so i went to put the window up and as i pressed the button my headlights and dash lights went dim, tried this a few times and they went dim everytime and at varying speeds.

never noticed this before and dont really need anything else to happen to the car at the moment.

Anyone else experienced this? Is it time to change my battery or something?

DannyN

#1
February 28, 2010, 22:02 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I only spotted this recently in the wife's clio and asked the clever bods here and its just cos your loading the battery up by trying to get the window motor to wind up when its already at full extension.  absolutely normal and nothing to worry about
Quote from: \"DannyN\"There are 10 types of people in the world,
Those who understand Binary and those that don\'t...

[size=75]Black 51 165 BHP - Hardtop ON - Teins - Apexi Power FC - AEM Induction (Cleaned) - Crower Cams - Forged Pistons - Iridium Plugs - Zero Manifold - SP Downpipe - H&S - TRD SS - Corkys MSMB - Goodridge - \'03 Vents - Devs - Bamas - Crystal Indies - Mongos.
[/size]

Mike68

#2
February 28, 2010, 22:18 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
If it was your battery you'd have noticed starting problems during the cold weather we've had. If it was an alternator problem the battery light would show on the dash to say the battery is being used.
As already said, this is normal as long as they don't go really dim.
Ex Silver MR-S

Now - Mica Red bug eye Scooby with blobeye front end conversion, Ninja 2 turbo back exhaust, HKS dump valve, prodrive fuel pump, prodrive 3 port turbo solenoid, BC Racing coilovers, K Sport 8 pot front brakes, VF35 turbo, 550 injectors, japspeed front mount intercooloer, 18" Kei RSS alloys, blobeye rear lights, tumble valve delete using JDM inlet manifold. Map completed by Race Dynamix 346 bhp, 340 lb torque

cclarke99

#3
February 28, 2010, 23:26 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Agree with the other posts that it's probably not a problem. If you want to check the alternator then measure the battery voltage at about 2000rpm with all large electrical loads (e.g. headlamps, rear window) switched off - it should be 13.2 to 14.0. To check the battery, run the engine for long enough to be sure it's fully charged, switch off, turn on all electrical accessories for 60seconds, turn off and measure voltage, should be 12.5 to 12.9V

mrzwei

#4
March 1, 2010, 16:43 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Agree with all of the above. When you turn the ignition on and you only get a clicking sound then you have to jump it, charge it or change it. Two weeks without use and mine is fucked so I jump it.
Ex.MR2 SMT sadly missed.
Saab 9-5 Turbo, Hirsch stage 1, Sports suspension and anti roll bars, uprated disks, sports intake and filter and various other bits. 210bhp, 320Nm.
Talbot Express campervan with carb, distributor, coil and no cat! SOLD

archieatkins

#5
March 1, 2010, 19:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Cool Thanks for the posts.

I use my motor every day so i am sure i will find out when it just doesnt want to start. To be fair it has probably happened ever sinse i bought it and i just never noticed.  s:) :) s:)

i am observant like that.
Print
Go Up Pages1
User actions
Tags: