Trouble installing TTE Foglights

[Sam]

I have been installing the TTE front bumper and fog lamps and have a problem. The lights I have installed according to the instructions and they work as expected. The problem is when I try and start the car it won't start - I just get a clicking from the main fusible Link block in the engine bay - a relay maybe?   s:? :? s:?  

If I remove the fog lamp conection to the white power cable in the front fuse compartment then the car will start normally.

I have bodged a diagram below to show the connections. I am pretty poor with electrical stuff - can anyone help  s:?: :?: s:?:  

 

[Tem]

If I remove the fog lamp conection to the white power cable in the front fuse compartment then the car will start normally.

I have bodged a diagram below to show the connections. I am pretty poor with electrical stuff - can anyone help  s:?: :?: s:?:

Where exactly did you install the wires? Where did you ground them?

[Sam]

Hi Tem, the ground cable was connected to the ground point under the bonnet to the left of the Brake Booster.

[markiii]

ghow does that white cable connect?

[Sam]

Sorry about the crap photos!   s:D s:D  

Ground connection and light relay are shown below



Showing where connection to white power cable should be :



<admin> edited due to file sizes </admin>

[Tem]

The ground point seems ok...

The 2nd pic doesn't show much though...can you describe where the wire goes? (which fuse/relay/which leg)

[Sam]

Ok lets think...

the red wire from the foglamp relay which has a fuse on it is then supposed to connect to the white 5mm power cable.

This is the white cable that feeds into the bottom of the front fuse compartment and appears to connect to the 50A EHPS Fuse.

To connect the two cables I removed some of the plastic arund the white cable and wrapped the red fog lamp cable around it and then coverd in electrical tape.

Could it be because I have connected the red cable kind of in the middle of the white one - should it be at the end point of the white? (Not sure why this would make any difference?) (Note the connection is not made in the pictures)

[SteveJ]

Sam,

If you are still struggling with this tomorrow evening I could pop over and take a look (I'm in Luton so you cant be too far from me)

Let me know.

[Tem]

To connect the two cables I removed some of the plastic arund the white cable and wrapped the red fog lamp cable around it and then coverd in electrical tape.

Could it be because I have connected the red cable kind of in the middle of the white one - should it be at the end point of the white? (Not sure why this would make any difference?) (Note the connection is not made in the pictures)

It doesn't matter if you connect at the end or in the middle...

But wrapping+tape is almost a sure way to cause problems  s:? :? s:?  It might work for a while, but it will die with time...you really should solder it or use a cramping tool (or what do you call it in the UK?).


I can't see why that would stop the car from starting though...

[Sam]

Sam,

If you are still struggling with this tomorrow evening I could pop over and take a look (I'm in Luton so you cant be too far from me)

Let me know.

Steve that would be great   s:D s:D   I am in Shenley (5 mins from J22 of M25) I am not in till 8 tho... if not don't worry - sure I will get there in the end!

[markiii]

ok lets fix the power issue first, if you look in teh front fuse box, you can see teh bus bar running teh length of it.

pick a spot where isn't obstructed and cut back the plastic to get to teh bus bar.

take a 10A piece of terminal block (one single piece is enough) take out the screw from half of it, using a dremel or similar cut a slot in the end the same thickness as teh bus bar. push over the bar and replace teh screw to secure.

now push your power cable in through teh bottom of the fuse box and connect into teh top of the terminal block.

nice and secure.

[Sam]

Thanks to Steve coming round I have been reminded of a few basic guidelines....

1) Tighten the battery connectors well if you expect the car to start    s:oops: :oops: s:oops:    s:oops: :oops: s:oops:    s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  

Need I say more?

Ok Mark I hear what you are saying - only question is that isn't the bar taken down to 40Amp - rather than connecting onto the wire where it is rated at 50A? Make any sense? Steve pointed it out.

[Anonymous]

Glad to hear its working now, the old saying "cant see the wood for the trees" comes to mind.

[SteveJ]

Thanks to Steve coming round I have been reminded of a few basic guidelines....

1) Tighten the battery connectors well if you expect the car to start    s:oops: :oops: s:oops:    s:oops: :oops: s:oops:    s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  

Need I say more?

Ok Mark I hear what you are saying - only question is that isn't the bar taken down to 40Amp - rather than connecting onto the wire where it is rated at 50A? Make any sense? Steve pointed it out.

No worries - only too happy to help a fellow ROC member.

Just a couple of things to clarify, the wire you have currently connected into is unfused (except for the 200A fusable link in the battery cable), the first bus-bar is fused at 50A (the one that Mark has connected to), and then there is a 2nd bus bar to the relays that is fused at 40A

For my money the best place to take the feed from is the same place as Mark - from the 50A bus bar. Although be very careful with the routing of the cable and ensure it is properly insulated as the cable you are using is going to burn through long before the fuse blows if a problem develops before the in-line fuse.

Good luck with finishing off and cant wait to see the fully adjustable Leda suspension setup.

[markiii]

good point steve, I think an inline fuse maybe in order

[SteveJ]

There is already an in-line fuse, but there is about 12 inches of cable before it that has to route past sharp metal edges.

[markiii]

an additional one then  s:-( :-( s:-(