Recent posts

#11
Does anyone know if it is possible to adjust our headlamps to make them LHD compliant?  I am starting to plan a trip to the Alps this summer and wondered if that might be a better option than sticking the beam deflect stickers randomly on the lens.

I remember having a BMW of a similar vintage to the MR2 and the dealer being able to alter the beam for a foreign trip.  Is this a feature that Toyota also had?

Thanks!
#12
Audio / Security / Electrical / Re: Lost Transponder
Last post by paulj - February 5, 2025, 20:24
Sadly you are a bit stuck without a car paired key to start with.  The immobiliser and alarm are two separate systems in the fob so bear that in mind when sourcing a solution.  The key dance for both systems relies on a paired key being used first to "unlock" the ECU and add a fob like the one you have bought.

Some auto key specialists can get into ECUs and directly add keys, not sure if this is an MR2 feature but ask one.  As for suggestions of companies, I would go for locally owned.  If you have a trusted mechanic or MrT you could ask who they use.

#13
The measurements given in the manual are for the car sitting on its wheels, which makes taking them a "bit" difficult.  Most people just measure from the jacking points on the body seam to the ground, as that is easy.
#14
Thank you.
Will have to get the wheels off at the weekend and see what's what...
#15
Audio / Security / Electrical / Re: Lost Transponder
Last post by Carolyn - February 5, 2025, 13:10
You could ask J-Spec if they have any MR-S ECUs.

You won't have an alarm or immobiliser any more but the car will start.
#16
Audio / Security / Electrical / Lost Transponder
Last post by mrivett - February 5, 2025, 12:21
Hello All

I have done a search round on this site, but cannot find a definitive answer

Recently went out to start the MR2 (Mart2 is his name, we share the same initials) only to find the key had cracked and the transponder was missing.

The car now wont start and the hazard flash repeatedly as you would expect. I have  purchased an new transponder from 'that site'. I m guessing that the 'door dance' wont work as I don't have the original transponder.

Just looking for suggestions and maybe someone could recommend a auto locksmith in the Norfolk/Suffolk area who may be able to help, or any other reasonably priced suggestion.

Thanks

Martin
#17
I'm hoping to find a way to remove the moveable grill bit without having to pull the housing out entirely.
Fingers crossed the tools @bobo83 has very kindly created will do the trick.

Sourced a replacement housing / vent as well from a scrappie, so I can have a practice first.
#18
General / Re: Wheel alignments beyond ju...
Last post by Bossworld - February 4, 2025, 15:57
Thanks both, knew I'd get a good answer here  ;)
#19
Different markets used different springs, as did different model years. Aftermarket companies like Sachs and KYB have different specs as well.  The best way to determine if the springs are OEM or sagging is found in the shop manual where measurements are given from suspension mounts to the ground.

PFL

Front: Measure distance from the ground to the center of the front lower suspension arm mounting point.  204mm (8.03in)
Rear: Measure the distance from the ground to the center of the front side strut rod mounting point. 270 mm (10.63 in)

FL should be slightly higher in the rear because of different springs and lightly larger diameter tires

Another common measurement is from the lip of the lower body seams at the jacking points to ground.  This varies from car to car, but should be close to 150 mm (6 in) to 160 mm front (6.25 in) and slightly higher in the rear.
#20
Reader's Rides / Re: Project Scope Creep
Last post by moca2cv - February 4, 2025, 12:06
MOT time was rapidly approaching, so shifter and console went back in, and I set about getting the car ready for the test. We all know what that means - handbrake time.

I figured I'd look at all the brakes at once, so popped the car on stands and got the wheels off. I run Carbotech XP8s which are quite aggressive on the discs, so I swapped the discs out for some fresh MTEC grooved ones. (I went for the black coating - I wish I hadn't. The first 20 brakes were terrifying, it should be illegal to sell discs like this...)



Pins greased and pistons wound back in, the fronts took about an hour to do all in. Then on to the rears. Popped off the handbrake cable and... oh no, it's full of water :(



I spent a good hour and a half working the cable back and forth while spraying thin grease in the outer. It freed up ok, but this is definitely the cable's last MOT, pass or fail... Winding in the pistons on the rear is such a massive pain, too. Who designed these? Why do they hate me?! Left hand piston didn't seem to unwind again, so I had to stamp on the pedal to get that one out. I think it's time for a refurb or upgrade.



Tried out my new magnetic dish. My goodness why didn't I get one of these sooner?!



Quick headlight polish in the dark, and that's me done. Now all I could do was pray to the MOT gods.



Oh - it passed 😁