Quote from: Joesson on Yesterday at 20:50IIRC at one time Jubilee/ worm drive type clips typically had a straight screwdriver slot.
I much  prefer to use a 1/4 inch small ratchet wrench and socket on the hex head than  the screwdriver alternative.

Yeah that's what I've been using for them- 5.5 or 6mm ratchet.
Unfortunately the ones I ordered for the oil drain are not tight enough and still leak

Started trying to tidy up the wiring inside whilst continuing to burp the car (one foot revving whilst hands are fiddling with centre console..) it's certainly won't be pretty but fit the purpose of shakedown and getting it ready for mapping it'll do.

IIRC at one time Jubilee/ worm drive type clips typically had a straight screwdriver slot.
I much  prefer to use a 1/4 inch small ratchet wrench and socket on the hex head than  the screwdriver alternative.

Quote from: tets on Yesterday at 18:26I have very similar clamps for my turbo pipes and got to say, they are very very good!!

I'm very tempted to get more for my turbo pipes now.. just not tempted by the price of them.. just have standard hose clamps on at the moment..

I fitted these clamps and the one way valve this evening:

Quote from: jvanzyl on Yesterday at 14:44Some more goodies arrived- 1 way valve for oil catch cab system and some ridiculous hose clamps that will hopefully resolve oil drain and charge leaks!

I have very similar clamps for my turbo pipes and got to say, they are very very good!!

@Chris Yeomans

This has been mentioned before, but a long time ago so no idea of the outcome or thread name. Some creative use of the search facility perhaps.

As C said above.

Had similar in a clio. Ok whilst cold and in closed loop. Once open and taking in sensor data. Awful.
That turned out to be an Engine coolant sensor. Not what feed the temp gauge but the ecu. It was being told it was minus 40 and over fueing.

Some more goodies arrived- 1 way valve for oil catch cab system and some ridiculous hose clamps that will hopefully resolve oil drain and charge leaks!

Took off turbo coolant leads and primed them and kept them at the ready.
Connected normal coolant line and ran car till heat came out of vents.
Whilst car running, disconnected coolant line and connected turbo lines (coolant everywhere but happy with connection). No heat from vents at all.

Started doing 2.5k RPM for sustained periods and trying bleed valves and after about 10-15 mins SUCCESS!!! it's not done fully yet, heat definitely stronger when revving but it's heat I never had before with the turbo's connected! Ran out of time but super hopeful!





Next time will be more heat and adding the shielding to the charge pipes.

Thanks Carolyn, thats perfect advise, i think if thats my only option ill try and get it through MOT this year and have summer and then look towards a 2zz upgrade.

Quote from: Dave Angel on April 23, 2024, 19:47Noted on the wheel nuts - actually by original I meant the ones that came with the wheels so good to fit. Do have a 'cap' though so would need open ended ones if I was to use longer studs....

Yes, I get that. Easily enough measured though. Also plenty about. Would not worry about it till you know how much longer the studs are.

The factory compression is 185psi.  Higher than that would indicate wet rings (excess oil) and carbon build-up on the cylinder-head and piston crowns.  That tallies with the oil consumption.

The oil control rings will be gummed up and stuck in the pistons.  There is no amount of additives that will deal with this, I'm afraid. 

Engine out and a mild rebuild will be needed.  Clean up pistons, new rings, hone bores, Replace valve seals while you're in there. 

A small modification to the oil control holes in the pistons is also good to do.  Enlarge the ones that are there (there are four of them, and add two more, or get a set of eight-hole MAG pistons.

Or you could go for a known good used engine.  Once you've done the work of taking it all out, betting on a used engine may not be the best way to go.

It will probably pass emissions.