Hi Jimmy 1 here I have 1999 roadster iam getting full 🍒 red respray.
I bought replacement  soft top and don't know how to fit it
Anyone in  lancashire help
Thanks jim

Really like this build, it's got old school Cliosport.net vibes about it for those that were on it

Quote from: lukeydoo on May  8, 2024, 09:27Great work! Fantastic to see all of the effort put into this!

Random question - how is the throttle cable linked to the K20a2 throttle cam (the one with the spring that you blip to raise the revs)?

I just removed the TB on my own K20 MR2 and cleaned the IACV and calibrated the TPS, put it back on and realised the end of the cable doesn't fit! If you have a better solution then it'd save me removing it all again to drill a larger hole!

Hi LukeyDoo,

Sorry havent seen this earlier, I can send you some pictures of how mine is mounted if you like? On memory it looks like its all original Honda so think the Honda cable has been used.

I've had it to pieces a few times and never struggled.

Dan

Thanks for the information about the springs and set ups. Dads had a change of heart un-fortunately so wont be having the spare MR2.

In other news Front & rear lips are now fitted properly, side skirts on the to-do list.

There was a leak from the rocker cover gasket so I ordered some replacements and fitted them.

Have painted the windscreen surround, rear hardtop beam and door sills so its looks more normal now. Just the door shuts and interior/engine bay to do now.

Next job was a very very very shameful and short term fix, but one that actually does a job. Annoyingly on the new panels one of the doors has some rust on the bottom, So ill look out for a replacement door but for now I ordered some Black gloss wrap...rust treated the areas, cut some patches and covered them up.

I know bad form from me but as a quick fix it actually doesn't look too bad, and for a track car is ok!

Really really chuffed with how it looks all black, over the moon actually, gone from a car that I liked but just always wished it was slightly different to one I really like!

What's next?

Have a Cadwell evening booked Wed 29th May to give it a little test outing, then Blyton on Sun 9th June.

Few little bits need doing prior to the track day;

-Knock Sensor failure code - Have one ordered so just needs fitting
-New Filter Element for Air filter as old one is toast!
-Ordered some larger diameter and black piping for the induction as it was killing my OCD been blue and far too small. This was a stupid purchase and should have just been left for a few track days as I'm putting the ITBs on then but I just cant help it!
-Shifter mechanism adjustments - Throw is too long currently
-Sump baffle adjustments - Have heard of these sticking so going to just bend the ends slightly so they cant
-Oil change whilst doing the baffles
-Quick Geo as it is all over the place currently

So nothing too strenuous hopefully.

CANT WAIT TO GET ON TRACK WITH IT! 

Dan

Perfect, thanks guys so will look to use half way as the empty line, will stop my 20 years old anxiety when driving it 😀

The last quarter on the gauge is not very accurate and tends to drop very quickly.  Once it's down to just below that level, how you park will show a large effect.

The piston is probably binding, giving less than the full range of movement. There are a few possibilities for this, however, including sticky cable, and stiff sliders.

As stated above, disconnecting the cable will help you to track it down.

Here is the link to the topic in our 'how to' section:

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=68798.0

@Dagnet

To add to the above. To remove the tunnel it is held in position by 4 screws. The 2 rear eady access. The front 2 (if not already removed) are obscured by the seats. Easiest is to unbolt the seat. Let back rest go full forward, which then allows to tip the seat back revealing the hidden screw. No need to remove the seat. That said. Not a biggie to remove the passenger seat. Gives better access. Remember to disconnect the cable 1st before lifting out.

Edit. Leaving the front 2 out makes no difference and easier next time. All 4 of mine are in the ashtray.

The handbrake is a bad design, & the most common cause of MOT failure. I'd guess the piston is moving since the footbrake is ok.   Back off the cable tension inside the car, disconnect the cables from caliper lever, get a hand from someone, & operate both caliper levers. Are both sides comparable?

Check the rubbers on the ends of the cables & the ability for the cables to move.

Last tuning session I had elsewhere was around £450 for the half day, flat fee quoted upfront.