Damper recommendations

[furbern]

Hi, I just wondered what are the current recommendations re dampers? My car has just failed its MOT as one of the front struts is leaking (and the handbrake is more pants than usual). I don't want to lower the car as I drive on some sketchy roads, so I want to keep stock ride height and springs. The Koni solution looks good and I like Koni, but I believe is for lowered springs. Thanks for any suggestions. 

[Joesson]

As far as I am aware the Koni  solution is to use the  original container and replace the working parts.
That means you are off the road for the extra time to remodel the struts.
I bought KYB that is generally considered to be/ equivalent to OE. If you look around you will find them at a lesser price than the Koni solution.
You should also consider top mounts, at least clean and regrease if no noticeable wear. There is also a felt  washer that disintegrates between the top mount and the strut. Also consider the condition of the  springs, again OE or equivalent length if you want to maintain ride height.
I replaced all four shocks but not strictly necessary but certainly both fronts if one is leaking.

[furbern]

Thanks for that; I have been planning a suspension refresh, but it keeps getting put back, as I would be working outside and the weather hasn't been kind (till yesterday). However, I think I will get the 4 dampers, fit the front 2 and get through the MOT as the clock is ticking on a re-test, then I can do the rest of the work in a more measured manner. KYB seem quite reasonable price.

 Does anyone happen to know if the Koni inserts can be used with standard springs?

[Gaz mr-s]

@Beachbum957

Any experience of o/e springs on Koni?

[jvanzyl]

Oem refurbishment using kyb dampers  along with refreshed bushings over the entire car will yield really enjoyable every day usable results.
Following this adding more and more bracing will make it even better.

[Craigjm]

I've just done my shocks springs top mounts and drop links. KYB and standard springs. Makes a huge difference a complete refresh after a geo setup

[AdamR28]

Koni inserts can be used with standard springs.

My fave dampers for all rounder use - god enough comfort, good enough control for road blasting and a bit of track, well built, proper damping curves, decent value. Have had 3 sets on various cars now and they have all been great!

[Beachbum957]

Does anyone happen to know if the Koni inserts can be used with standard springs?

We have been running the Koni inserts with OEM springs. They work very nicely and actually ride a bit better than OEM or KYB, and work better on rough roads.  They also last a very long time as a friend ran Konis with stock springs for over 90,000 miles and they were still working very well.

The only issues are finding someone to modify the stock strut housings which need to be cut, and getting the right specs for the cuts.  The information sheet with the inserts doesn't not have the right dimensions.  One other small issue is the bolt that holds the insert in the strut may hit the top of the sway bar mount at full extension.  That is not a concern in normal driving.

The KYB are also a good alternative with stock springs if you don't want to modify the old housings.

[fawtytoo]

I don't want to lower the car as I drive on some sketchy roads

I have a similar situation, so went for a standard setup.

I've just done my shocks springs top mounts and drop links. KYB and standard springs. Makes a huge difference a complete refresh after a geo setup

Mine were done last year replacing 20 year old springs and shocks and without spending loads of money.

[Joesson]

We have been running the Koni inserts with OEM springs. They work very nicely and actually ride a bit better than OEM or KYB, and work better on rough roads.  They also last a very long time as a friend ran Konis with stock springs for over 90,000 miles and they were still working very well.

The only issues are finding someone to modify the stock strut housings which need to be cut, and getting the right specs for the cuts.  The information sheet with the inserts doesn't not have the right dimensions.  One other small issue is the bolt that holds the insert in the strut may hit the top of the sway bar mount at full extension.  That is not a concern in normal driving.

The KYB are also a good alternative with stock springs if you don't want to modify the old housings.

Somewhere on here there is a thread that mentions the incorrect info from Kone and also mentions the correction. Maybe search would find it if needed.

[Beachbum957]

Somewhere on here there is a thread that mentions the incorrect info from Kone and also mentions the correction. Maybe search would find it if needed.

Here you go. There is a lot of info in the full thread

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=73170.msg880524#msg880524

[furbern]

Thanks everyone for all the info, I didn't really expect as much so soon. First job - that dratted handbrake!!!!

[Gaz mr-s]

Thanks everyone for all the info, I didn't really expect as much so soon. First job - that dratted handbrake!!!!

If you haven't seen this, have a read, - particularly re the gaiters.

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=74553.msg897736#msg897736

[furbern]

Thanks very much, I have read it actually and my car does have the MGTF gaiters fitted. A couple of years ago one of the calipers seized. I bought rebuild kits and rebuilt the rear calipers(not the first calipers I had rebuilt), however once back on the car I couldn't get the handbrake to adjust up. So I bought 2 new calipers, and they were OK but it looks like one of those has stuck now (I don't do a lot of miles in it). One thing I have read and it may account for my failure to get the original calipers to work is that the auto adjust can't work if there is more than 1mm clearance ie slack on the pads. When I did the rebuild I wound the caliper pistons all the way back, but the pads weren't new as they and the discs were only slightly worn. I am wondering if that might account for the problems on the original calipers, ie the pads might have been too slack. I have yet to investigate the current problem. But the design is just awful. I have a 2009 Ford also with the handbrake on the rear discs - it has always held on my drive which is 1 in 5, no problem.   

[Joesson]

@furbern

Having replaced the rear calipers on my car and refitted the part worn discs and pads and subsequently done not a lot of miles but passed two MOT's I suggest that the your part worn pads are not the cause of your problem.
You will be aware that disc brakes are self adjusting so the state of wear, within limits, should not adversely affect the system.

[Ardent]

As above. The self adjusting mech is not working as it should.
The pads should have an interference fit to the disc. No gap.

Take the nipples on the back of the pads are seated correctly in the piston slots.

[Joesson]

@furbern said:

....the auto adjust can't work if there is more than 1mm clearance ie slack on the pads. When I did the rebuild I wound the caliper pistons all the way back ..... the pads might have been too slack.

As @Ardent mentions the locating "nipple", on the pad must be seated correctly, after winding  the piston fully in and ensuring that the cut outs in the piston head are in a N/ S position. The piston may need to be wound out  to achieve this position.
With the pads installed they must be operated/ pumped out with the brake pedal, slowly, firmly and several times until much resistance is felt.
If the wheels are off the ground the wheel/ disc could be rotated and the pumping repeated when the pedal should still feel hard unless the disc is distorted ( you then have another problem).


In this position the pads will be touching the disc, there should be no measurable gap ( certainly  not 1mm) the friction only relieved by the flex action of  the piston seal.

That is the starting position for adjusting the hand brake, the cable for which you will have slackened off before starting the above procedure.