Recent posts

#1
Two new problems emerged today on our pre facelift MR2:

ABS light has come on.  We have just changed the discs and pads but it wasn't on before.  There is no fault code when we run a diagnostic.

Battery drain. The new battery keeps going flat.  It was replaced a few weeks ago along with a recon alternator and has been fine until today when we were road testing following installation of new brake disks, pads and pre loved rear callipers. Every time we switch engine off it needs a jump to restart. This happens even after driving for a few miles.  Very strange.

Coincidence or could these problems be related?

Any advice appreciated
#2
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on April 21, 2024, 13:40You might get an indication by getting the engine fully warmed up, let it idle for a minute, then BOOT the throttle, easier with a helper to see the exhaust output.  Well done in persevering.

Tried this, and you get a little puff of black smoke when you really boot it. Not much, and black rather than grey. Any thoughts?
#3
After a year of tuning my car audio system I finally cracked it. All I had to do is find my old timing settings from 2006. That last 2% makes all the difference when everything is in the proper phase. This charts analyzer graph is weighted to show the human ear response. As you can see the bass is elevated to cut through the exhaust/ road noise and everything else is mostly flat.

To put it to words that people can understand, it sounds like the vocals are coming from the Navpod. The speakers sounds like nothing is coming out of them and the music is in your head. It is a surreal psychoacoustic experience with lots of depth and transparency. 
 

#4
Time for a few little updates, Got on with the to-do list before Cadwell reasonably well.

-New induction set/up and filter element fitted.

-GIZ Motorsport helped with sorting the baffle plates and oil change and fettled with the shifter...its better but still isn't right so need to do some research on this. With the really short gearbox it needs to be perfect as your always using the box!

-Fitted the side skirts and switched the bootlid over to the one with the wing attached.

-Took it for an alignment at the local Bush tyre place....this didn't go so well;

So these were the original numbers;

I wanted to get to 3 degrees camber front 0 toe. 2.5 degrees camber rear and 0.15 toe.

Ended up with this;

As you can see miles away and tbh a waste of time and money.

For some reason they just couldn't get any more than 1-1.5 degree's camber on the back passenger side. I have got adjustable hard race traction arms and camber arms but haven't replaced the Toe arms, so assuming you need to do all of them to get it right.

They ran out of time and had other customers waiting, I didn't have much time myself so I opted to put a Camber bolt on the rear Passenger and adjust it by eye to as close as I could.

So the alignment was far from perfect, going to now purchase the last adjustable toe arm fit it with the camber bolts and take it back to hopefully get it better before Blyton (9th June).

Few pictures at a spot local to me I quite like as well as the new Induction set up.

Dan






#5
General / Re: TF300 List number & colour
Last post by Gaz mr-s - Today at 13:46
I've seen 2 comments saying that there were actually only 250 TF's.  True or false?   If so were the numbers' customer requested?
#6
Quote from: Gaz2405 on May 18, 2024, 11:25Really like this build, it's got old school Cliosport.net vibes about it for those that were on it

Thanks Gaz! I used to be on the CRX forum many years ago and used to do project threads on there so I'm probably still living that life!

#7
General / Re: TF300 List number & colour
Last post by carolineasb - Today at 11:55
Tried to find out if there were many/any TFs going to the National Day tomorrow but sadly never got a reply from the DC :-( hoping to head to Thirlstane in Lauder instead although with RAV4 instead as will have to take dogs. Anyone else going there?
#8
Quote from: Dagnet on May 17, 2024, 19:06usually takes around 50-100 miles after reseting ECU)

You are right about it not being instant.  It only triggers once operating temperature has been reached and you have had a drive of sustained rpm.  You might find it as a pending code with a reader, but if the light is off then happy days!!
#9
Is it happening mostly under deceleration?

Part of my problem is likely unique to the TTE (dual tip) exhaust I had, but it might be similar to what you're getting: various really noticeable rattles and vibrations mostly decelerating from 2500-2000rpm.

It was eventually traced it to a combination of the exhaust heat shield being loose and a missing exhaust hangar mount, so the hangar was catching on the chassis.

Noticeable at that speed as that's when the exhaust is moving around the most, so it was causing the heat shield to rattle like mad and the hangar to catch the chassis and give the heavier vibrations.

Solutions were:
1) Some steel wool + metal straps around the exhaust heat shield to tighten it until it could be welded.
2) Kept adjusting the angle of the exhaust tip until I found one that minimised the chances of it catching, until the hangar could be replaced and attached properly.
#10
extreme solution, but have you considered a nice fat new exhaust? TTE is aweome, but hard to find.... not sure what is the closest match.... Cobra?