MR2 Roadster Owners Club

Hello everyone,

First of all, gotta thank everyone for all the help I have been given so far, this has to be one of the most helpful and friendly communities I've come across on the internet.

So this is gonna be a post where I document all my plans and eventual actions taken upon my little red MR2. From replacing the dreaded pre-cats to doing up the aesthetics and all the in-betweens. I'll also limit my inevitable questions to this thread so I don't spam every board. I am a complete amateur when it comes to working on cars and therefore I expect a lot of failure and frustration and subsequent necessity of aid from gritty experienced folk.

Meet Mushi, the Roadster (because she's Japanese and looks like a bug and I am not very creative).

(https://i.ibb.co/nzHmrrQ/PXL-20230710-154019451.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/SPXrLqr/PXL-20230710-154027165.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/xJ53fjM/PXL-20230710-154207372.jpg)


Current plans for which I actually have parts to execute:

• Exhaust manifold Swap (Got a Gravity Performance one on eBay)
• Air and oil filter change
• Radiator ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150561877372 ) + lots of Toyota Red concentrate coolant and a lot of deionised water to bleed and refill the coolant system
• Nappy removal... Still unsure on this one, I don't like the look of it but like the idea of protecting the innards of the car... Style or substance on this one? TBD[/s] Style was the answer on this one.

These are the most important things I need to address.

Things I want to do eventually:

• Take the cat heatshield apart and bolt it together a la Ardent, as it still rattles.
• Get a black wing, powder-coat the alloys black, paint the brake callipers red. Perhaps paint the badges black as well.
• Fit a twin exhaust (looking at one by the same company who made the manifold, Gravity Performance, anyone happen to buy from them in the past?) That (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185803773889?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota%7CCars+Type%3A1.8+16V+VT-i%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III%7CCars+Year%3A2003%7CModel%3AMR2%7CVariant%3APetrol+Convertible%7CEngine%3A1794cc+103KW+140HP+1ZZ-FE%7CBodyStyle%3ARWD+III+ZZW3_%7CVariant%3APetrol+Convertible%7CEngine%3A1794cc+103KW+140HP+1ZZ-FE%7CBodyStyle%3ARWD+III+ZZW3_&hash=item2b42c497c1:g:3-QAAOSwCKJkBhfb&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAC77Tz%2FgTCZe93nW534qg%2Bvh%2FMwO4vtuCG%2BxIYKuUObECI3MCasoVRUXL5jlr5VrgTYjePkz1NXI4pOwdtWv%2Brnk99DaoSKlqtGJn%2FeU99PJ0w6qnJTXspRVKz%2FaQpIk2jnivDYMXYJeejuaOv0lqZsjbczTCc9SwBeohcohuRfY5fatPRTJP9BqE571PgWogxb0cDvhxKlT04q5qf%2B1W%2FQS8pnYP5lyc3Dmd%2FHSXEjrtcszW7MqjiO%2FDcFOGCbe2B3Sxt%2Bet9rnnpzhTi4xFiLvM78QqI6msy8VDzr%2FPVuGp4FGXeDLpOBlfqDrEUrNAKbHM6jdIMLU7xVF%2F6MWxIw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM9rjh_8Ji)  or Malian  (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265216111493?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818141841%26meid%3D46fbe100cfed4ab18d5c8a7506cd2c92%26pid%3D101111%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D282635525537%26itm%3D265216111493%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D3458402%26algv%3DPromotedCompV5WithHighAdFeeWithKnnRecallV1PostRankerMode1PBoosterV3a%26brand%3DMalian%2BExhausts&_trksid=p3458402.c101111.m2109&amdata=cksum%3A26521611149346fbe100cfed4ab18d5c8a7506cd2c92%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAABMMQ4i4G0TKqdnw2r2UzGDkyandjT6VvGA4c5a09a1jXB%252FtL5ZfSL0e45uSSalrSlRcUgM%252FBdAChBvbEzUqW0PnjsFFigbpwkQVesw5HML%252BsxG570cEAEOUr9axDDh7vo6toCP83st5h3pWzQSfRrnHQc8NgJe%252Fx7zLd8r9sV%252B62DVOjGX0lzHpEFP21IHZMnhLKbBQmwexi6GyHOCkMgItPpJEcaQqM0H31VjVq%252Buse7YlhiKH5JuvDX2NoTmRK2Q6YCPl1zBQX1R0oJOkspozFWp%252F%252FRIAboWcB%252BUdwmNRR6%252FlqYB2%252FaxCxNCM75D2OhGO8kG9SLanrMg5KKSjuIo3Ri3QElwew4JePASmHPscuGntakOOyYcdXrUxf%252BkLJNgeBXyhAyvvURKCyzdojxpmA%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A3458402&epid=11026553778)which I have already heard good things about.

I have a week off at the end of this month when I am hoping to tackle at least the exhaust manifold and while at it inspect the cat heat shield and see what can be done about that. My toolkit is pretty limited but with some PlusGas and elbow grease I am hoping the pre-cat manifold won't fight me too much. -

Here's hoping the weather will be kinder to me in August and I can get cracking.


I got rained out instead so hopefully September will be the month this happens.

@JayPee404
@Chilli Girl will perhaps be feeling broody seeing your Chilli red! Looks to be a good'un.
It's good to have a plan and thank you for sharing.
I'm unsure about what you mean with dye the brake callipers red. Perhaps dye the badges black as elsewhere you would like to paint the whole exhaust black.
Importantly though, if you have limited tools a very good/ essential investment would be a set of SIX point sockets. Please DO NOT attempt work on your exhaust manifold with multipoint sockets.
The nuts may not come off with the six point but they will certainly round off with the multi points.
Soak the fixings for as long you can and repeat as necessary with Plus Gas preferably or similar.
Let us know how you progress.

 :) keep is informed on you get on with your work :)
when starting out there is never a silly question so ask away if needed 8)  8)

enjoy the pain and frustration with hand cuts along the way :)  :) 

Quote from: Joesson on July 14, 2023, 08:57@JayPee404
@Chilli Girl will perhaps be feeling broody seeing your Chilli red! Looks to be a good'un.
It's good to have a plan and thank you for sharing.
I'm unsure about what you mean with dye the brake callipers red. Perhaps dye the badges black as elsewhere you would like to paint the whole exhaust black.
Importantly though, if you have limited tools a very good/ essential investment would be a set of SIX point sockets. Please DO NOT attempt work on your exhaust manifold with multipoint sockets.
The nuts may not come off with the six point but they will certainly round off with the multi points.
Soak the fixings for as long you can and repeat as necessary with Plus Gas preferably or similar.
Let us know how you progress.

Yeah this has been my priority recently. I have a set but they're mostly standard sockets so I'm looking at one of the "pro" sets at halfords. I have already gotten a small set by Erbauer I believe to tackle specifically rounded off nuts if they're already ruined, but I do need a more comprehensive set before I start working. I was going at the oil sump with a standard socket and thought wait best not to round that off. Arsenal growing currently, but funds are running low  :o

Also the dye and paint, maybe a case of poor wording. In the end I mean turn them black as the silver on red is not my favourite combo. In an ideal world she would be yellow and black accents but I'm not ready to completely overhaul the paintwork

Edit: The rounded nut remover: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bolt-nut-remover-set-6-pcs/6083d

@JayPee404

Nappy.
I do not like them. look awful. But accept that Mr T did or had to, put them there for a reason.
Problem is no one really knows the real decision. There are many valid thoughts as to why and what they do, and some may well be correct. But up to now, no one has pointed to a Mr T paper or otherwise that categorically defines the design decision. If protecting the innards was one of them it was not that successful. Plenty reports of sub frames suffering despite nappies in place.
 

(https://i.ibb.co/HzMGzyK/PXL-20230715-173733908.jpg)

Yeah nappys out. Wanted to look at the cat heatshield properly, need tighter clips as the rattle ruins my fun. It's amazing how everything that's supposed to hold it together is one dirty look away from crumbling.

Also trying to see if I can squeeze under the car and undo the sump plug without jacking the car up or putting it on ramps. It seems feasible as I'm a small dude.

Oh to have a level drive instead of a slanted parking spot....

(https://i.ibb.co/SfXsmfX/PXL-20230716-120341909.jpg)

Gave her a good clean today and tightened the heatshield together. Also decided it's unlikely I'm small enough to get under the car without raising anything.

Currently thinking I'll put the front on ramps which will both give me enough clearance to reach the sump plug and filter while putting the at the right angle to drain everything out.

How do you guys normally do the oil change? Jack the back, filter and plug out, jack the front, and so on so forth?

Quote from: JayPee404 on July 15, 2023, 19:15Yeah nappys out.

I am a great supporter of that but be aware that the rear bumper skirt lower part is now acting as a parachute. P.e. @Carolyn made brackets to keep it stable but that does not address the issue; cutting it a bit down (well, úp actually) will. If you do so neatly it looks completely standard to the uninitiated.
@Ardent place a pfoto of the rear of mine on here.

@JayPee404 said:

How do you guys normally do the oil change? Jack the back, filter and plug out, jack the front, and so on so forth?

Typically I raise the whole car at the end of my driving season ready for service and maintenance work.
Starting with the rear of the car and with chocks  in front and rear of the front wheels, I position a trolley jack under the central engine mount to enable placing of two axle stands that I position at the rear jacking points.
I then raise the front in a similar fashion with the jack under the centre of the front cross member, position indicated by a recess in the undertray, axle stands under the front jacking points.
I protect the paintwork with a double thickness of carpet off cut between the sills and the stand heads.
Some other members advocate the axle stands be positioned under suspension elements, but in any situation not just a jack!
@Ardent I believe uses a pair of small ramps to raise the rear end to drain and refill the oil which is a quicker, easier method for just an oil change.

Quote from: JayPee404 on July 16, 2023, 16:40(https://i.ibb.co/SfXsmfX/PXL-20230716-120341909.jpg)

Gave her a good clean today and tightened the heatshield together. Also decided it's unlikely I'm small enough to get under the car without raising anything.

Currently thinking I'll put the front on ramps which will both give me enough clearance to reach the sump plug and filter while putting the at the right angle to drain everything out.

How do you guys normally do the oil change? Jack the back, filter and plug out, jack the front, and so on so forth?

I use a pair of plastic caravan levelling ramps. Argos.
Plenty enough clearance.
There will be pics in here somewhere.
Search me, in what have you done today

Edit
https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?msg=889812

Thanks guys. I have a set of 2 tonne ramps from Halfords , which I was gonna use to lift the back up and get under there to do what needs doing, but then the back will be up on ramps and I'm unsure how I would drain the oil properly. I don't wanna jack the car up while it's on ramps it case it slips. It really doesn't help that everywhere around where I live is slanted so it just makes setting it up a bit worse than it should be.

I guess my solution is to find somewhere level to work, I've got the tools to do it just not the surface.

Or am I getting too hung up on getting every bit of old oil out? Seems pointless to do an oil change but leave more than just residue in the sump.

Quote from: JayPee404 on July 17, 2023, 13:28Thanks guys. I have a set of 2 tonne ramps from Halfords , which I was gonna use to lift the back up and get under there to do what needs doing, but then the back will be up on ramps and I'm unsure how I would drain the oil properly. I don't wanna jack the car up while it's on ramps it case it slips. It really doesn't help that everywhere around where I live is slanted so it just makes setting it up a bit worse than it should be.

I guess my solution is to find somewhere level to work, I've got the tools to do it just not the surface.

Or am I getting too hung up on getting every bit of old oil out? Seems pointless to do an oil change but leave more than just residue in the sump.

Put the nose of your car UPHILL and reverse onto the ramps. That will make your car somewhere nearer level.

I agree, you want to get as much out as you can. 

With my car on jack-stands, I drain the oil and change the filter, then I drop the car before putting the sump plug in and let it dribble until it pretty much stops.  Then I put the sump plug back in and fill her up.

Quote from: Joesson on July 17, 2023, 13:32Put the nose of your car UPHILL and reverse onto the ramps. That will make your car somewhere nearer level.

As can be seen per the link I put in post 9.
The ramps offset the slope of the drive leaving the 2 levelish.

Further to my posts #8 & #11 above, my garage floor is not level, there is around 80mm fall from the back to the front / door. This means that when I put my car on same height axle stands front/ rear the front of the car is somewhat higher than the rear.
 

Quote from: Ardent on July 17, 2023, 14:21As can be seen per the link I put in post 9.
The ramps offset the slope of the drive leaving the 2 levelish.

I looked those up actually, they look nice and a bit more stable than mine which are metal and like to slip on the surface you can see in the pictures. Need to get some anti-slip mats if I wanna use the ones I have already, though they offer a good bit of clearance. I also have a curb at the bottom of the parking area, may put the ramps against that and back the car up. Should give me clearance while still being tilted to drain without the ramps slipping out.

Quote from: Petrus on July 16, 2023, 17:49I am a great supporter of that but be aware that the rear bumper skirt lower part is now acting as a parachute. P.e. @Carolyn made brackets to keep it stable but that does not address the issue; cutting it a bit down (well, úp actually) will. If you do so neatly it looks completely standard to the uninitiated.
@Ardent place a pfoto of the rear of mine on here.

More so than the nappy which looks literally built like one? Is that something some type of skirt or would solve? I'm ever so slightly reticent to start cutting away at the bumper. I'll see if I can find that photo as I'm quite curious what you actually cut down. Thanks for the head's up!

On a less positive note, the rattle is now different and is making me wonder if it's still the heatshield or if there's something else wrong. The car still drives beautifully so I don't think it's anything mechanical necessarily, but I don't feel anything loose under the car so will have to have a good look around.

I also noticed one of the side plastic grilles on the back of the car is gone. Wondering if somebody decided it'd be fun to nick it of it just blew off. In any case 2 new ones coming in from Mr T themselves. £10 a pop seems excessive but hey, I don't have a 3D printer so it'll have to do.

Quote from: Joesson on July 17, 2023, 15:46Further to my posts #8 & #11 above, my garage floor is not level, there is around 80mm fall from the back to the front / door. This means that when I put my car on same height axle stands front/ rear the front of the car is somewhat higher than the rear.
 

Are you not concerned physics will do it's thing and the car will slip, potentially with you under it?

@JayPee404 said:
Are you not concerned physics will do it's thing and the car will slip, potentially with you under it?

My car has been on axle stands for around six months a year for the past ten years, so far so good.

Maybe I'm overly concerned about the whole having the car dropped on me scenario...

Quote from: JayPee404 on July 17, 2023, 15:52More so than the nappy which looks literally built like one?

MUCH more as the nappy guide the flow under the car to enter beónd the bumper. Delete them and the skirt is like a scoop in the air flow.
Easy enough to see looking from underneath the car.

There are also méasurements for akin mod on other cars p.e. the MX5. It fals about halfway between all stock and a custom made rear diffuser.

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?msg=892733

How come better than stock? Remember that the manufacturers are seriously restricted by regulations, in this case noise. In particular engine noise relecting form the road surface. Noise containement is also the main reason for the misnomed ´drip tray´ unless it refers to collected water dripping onto the engine when the lid is opened...

Concerning the air flow throúgh the boiler room there is quite a bit more to it but deleting nappies helps.

Quote from: JayPee404 on July 17, 2023, 16:39Maybe I'm overly concerned about the whole having the car dropped on me scenario...

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/content/discovery/ideas-and-advice/axle-stands-guide#:~:text=Axle%20stands%20are%20safety%2Dfocused,ratings%20are%20of%20great%


The supplier of my jack and axle stands:
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/help-advice/how-to-use-axle-stands/

It's not so much that I don't know how to use em more so that I worry the angle could lead to slipping. Need to get an old tire or something to plop under the car for safety.

https://youtube.com/shorts/KwNyUhpM6Co?feature=share4

https://youtube.com/shorts/IV9TcnHHGr4?feature=share4

On a different note, do you guys think this sounds healthy? Apologies for the quality as that is just my phone. I'm failing to capture the rattle (putting the phone down in the engine bay and going to the pedal to rev the engine means it just resonates with the chassis and doesn't catch the scratching noise).

I've long been wondering if the ticking noise is normal and while the car still drives great I don't wanna push her too hard. I think I have yet to push her over 5k (ok maybe once or twice) just out of fear it'll pop something.

I may see if @Mickemo 's recommended garage has a moment to look at the engine to make sure it's in good working order, as I am not prepared to delve into that side of things.

@JayPee404

For what it's worth with my electronically enhanced hearing your engine does not sound to be in any imminent danger.
As said recently a noise that defies explanation is usually the catalyser heatshield.

Ticking noises can be down to valve gaps.  We used to do a lot a valve clearance jobs, but nobody seems to be doing it anymore.  There must be loads of cars with noisy valves!

The club still has 'bucket bank' if anyone wants to do their valve clearances.

Quote from: Carolyn on July 18, 2023, 14:42Ticking noises can be down to valve gaps.  We used to do a lot a valve clearance jobs, but nobody seems to be doing it anymore.  There must be loads of cars with noisy valves!

Less cars also doing less mileage?

Quote from: Carolyn on July 18, 2023, 14:42The club still has 'bucket bank' if anyone wants to do their valve clearances.

I'd be very interested in checking mine at some point

Quote from: Joesson on July 18, 2023, 14:30@JayPee404

For what it's worth with my electronically enhanced hearing your engine does not sound to be in any imminent danger.
As said recently a noise that defies explanation is usually the catalyser heatshield.

Thanks for the reassurance boss, maybe it really is just the cat heatshield. Could just be loose bits in there from the weld that once held it together.

Quote from: Carolyn on July 18, 2023, 14:42Ticking noises can be down to valve gaps.  We used to do a lot a valve clearance jobs, but nobody seems to be doing it anymore.  There must be loads of cars with noisy valves!

The club still has 'bucket bank' if anyone wants to do their valve clearances.

Interesting, I will look at this process though I can't imagine it's a fun one! What do you mean by bucket bank tho?

Quote from: JayPee404 on July 19, 2023, 05:56Thanks for the reassurance boss, maybe it really is just the cat heatshield. Could just be loose bits in there from the weld that once held it together.

Interesting, I will look at this process though I can't imagine it's a fun one! What do you mean by bucket bank tho?

Have a look in the  'How To' section and all will become clear.  I actually really enjoy doing valve clearance jobs. Very satisfying. 

(https://i.ibb.co/JCyT93b/PXL-20230725-125559783.jpg)

So Mushi has slowly been leaking coolant for a while now. In my complacency I ran it as the leak was minimal and I kept her topped up every day.

On Monday, 10 minute drive to work and I notice the fan kicking in abnormally at traffic lights and upon inspection, expansion tank is nearly empty.

Not wanting to wait for a garage to address it, booked Tuesday off and went to town. Fairly straightforward process, was nice to look under the trims and see the state under the frunk. Not nearly as dirty as I had expected given than she rests under a tree at home. Draining and bleeding the system felt pretty easy and my slanted drive proved very useful on this occasion.

Shiny new rad in, no more dribble, no more worries. That's one job done.

Off next week again to tackle the precats.

PS: state of the old rad. Poor thing...

(https://i.ibb.co/B3dbnHk/PXL-20230727-162349834.jpg)

Not much has happened since I changed the rad. Awful weather combined with working 2 jobs just leaves me with praying Saturday will be decent for me to get anything done. So far little luck or will.

Did polish the headlights with some success,but everything else  not quite progressing as I would like.

(https://i.ibb.co/2vFY0m2/PXL-20230803-110120549.jpg)

@JayPee404
Ref #27 the photo of the rad, am I correct in seeing the "damage" is in the rear Lower Left corner of the rad?
If so the same area as my 2002 rad that was in a similar state in May 2013, 11 years old at around 57K.
That means the replacement is now 10 years old at 67k (with just 10k miles usage).

The replacement is coming up to the same age as the OE but with a lot less miles.
Coolant was Toyota Long Life until the rad guarantee ran out and dumped it. Replaced with motor factor " longlife" 50/ 50 with tap water, for around 3 years and in 2019 replaced that with Ravenol 50/50 with deionised water.
The Toyota fluid was expensive, lasted as OE 11 years/ 57k
After market much less costly, and thus far has lasted much the same time but with much less mileage.
I wonder if there is any rhyme, reason or logic to the deterioration of radiators?

Quote from: Joesson on August 22, 2023, 17:38@JayPee404I wonder if there is any rhyme, reason or logic to the deterioration of radiators?

Planned obsolescence.

Quote from: Joesson on August 22, 2023, 17:38am I correct in seeing the "damage" is in the rear Lower Left corner of the rad?

Literally there yeah. I saw a lot of evidence from other owners reporting the exact same failure so it's a common fault. Do wonder what leads to such a specific failure, but at least it makes troubleshooting easy.

Alex probably has it right, but given it's such a small part and easy to change, I can't say it bothers me much. Maybe the MR2 just runs hot and thus the rad has to work extra hard? I have noticed mine stays at temp for quite a good hour after parking it so maybe that takes its toll on the radiator? Or maybe I'm talking non-sense

Hello all, it has been a minute.

Sunny September has meant the Roadster has seen plenty of work done to it.

First was oil and oil filter change, as well as sump plug gasket. Easy job, had to put a knife through the old filter to get it out but other than that all changed and not leaking anywhere. I did notice the gearbox is a bit oily which is something to look into further.

But that can wait, as I backed into a curb (don't judge me) and pushed my exhaust in, meaning I got that sweet revvy sound without swapping any parts. Which meant I had to swap all the parts. I'm not actually sure what broke as looking at it it wasn't obvious at all, but I was wanting to replace the exhaust anyway so it was just a good reason to do so.
 
On the rainiest day in September, I got her up on the stands and replaced the exhaust manifold with a Stainless Steel gravity performance one I bought when I got the car, and replaced the exhaust system with Malian's TTE twin exit + sports cat combo. It has a brilliant sound now, if not a hint louder than I had expected. Looks good to boot too.
Surprisingly enough, almost nothing had any issues coming undone barring the o2 sensor out of the cat. Had to buy a new one as the old one was firmly stuck on the OG cat.

Next on is iridium spark plugs because only the best for Mushi, air filter and possibly replace or clean MAF. I've got this dark residue on the exhaust tip already but I can't see any oil mixed with coolant so I don't think that's where it's coming from. I am instead assuming that it's running on rich as my experienced friend seemed to think so too. See if these few bits help with it, maybe I can get slightly better MPG.

There was a recent thread on Iridium plugs. The only thing better about them is they are made for higher mileages.  They are not as efficient has copper/nickel.  Set of NGK for £10.59 on ebay.

Quote from: Gaz mr-s on October  5, 2023, 20:57There was a recent thread on Iridium plugs. The only thing better about them is they are made for higher mileages.  They are not as efficient has copper/nickel.  Set of NGK for £10.59 on ebay.

Really? From what I've read it can help with fuel efficiency, performance, response, etc, on top of the extended life compared to bog standard ones. I guess that's a big emphasis on the "can" part of it though. Once I've actually put them in I will update on my experience.

Without wanting to open a can of worms, Iridium plugs are better -on balance - than anything else.

But don't take my word, here (https://www.rmwalshltd.co.uk/blogs/news/iridium-spark-plug-vs-normal-spark-plug-whats-the-difference#:~:text=Iridium%20spark%20plugs%20are%20capable,with%20less%20expenditure%20of%20energy.) is a professional analysis.

Quote from: Alex Knight on October  6, 2023, 18:14Without wanting to open a can of worms, Iridium plugs are better -on balance - than anything else.

But don't take my word, here (https://www.rmwalshltd.co.uk/blogs/news/iridium-spark-plug-vs-normal-spark-plug-whats-the-difference#:~:text=Iridium%20spark%20plugs%20are%20capable,with%20less%20expenditure%20of%20energy.) is a professional analysis.

They quickly say 'durability'.   But they sell the things, they have a vested interest.

Quote from: JayPee404 on October  6, 2023, 17:45Really? From what I've read it can help with fuel efficiency, performance, response, etc, on top of the extended life compared to bog standard ones. I guess that's a big emphasis on the "can" part of it though. Once I've actually put them in I will update on my experience.

Unless doing a big mileage per annum I think they're a waste of money.  I have never replaced the standard spark plugs in a car & noticed it performing better.  I had to replace a faulty one in a bike once, cured a misfire.

Quote from: Gaz mr-s on October  6, 2023, 19:44Unless doing a big mileage per annum I think they're a waste of money.  I have never replaced the standard spark plugs in a car & noticed it performing better.  I had to replace a faulty one in a bike once, cured a misfire.

Mine is a daily so I drive this car everywhere. So long as it ain't a downright negative I'm okay with the price tag, and the illusion of ponies is an added bonus

Quote from: Gaz mr-s on October  6, 2023, 19:38They quickly say 'durability'.   But they sell the things, they have a vested interest.

They sell both.

New sparkies are in. I definitely feel like the throttle is a bit more responsive, but all in all it's not a massive difference.

(https://i.ibb.co/853m3jk/PXL-20231014-121127888.jpg)

I have no idea if the old ones look like they're in good or poor state as it's my first time ever swapping out spark plugs.

One thing I did notice is that I am sucking up fuel like crazy. I need to start calculating what I am getting from tank to tank but I feel like I topped up last Tuesday and I am down to half a tank doing 20 odd daily miles on the motorway. Since installing the new exhaust I drive pretty conservatively (most of the time), so I don't even think it's from thrashing it too much.

Need to swap the air filter out ,but is there anything I should do to the car after swapping out everything from the exhaust manifold to backbox?

I'd say reset of the ECU (unplug battery for a while) is all you'd really need with that kind of change. If you've not done that, then that could explain a change in consumption.

Fuelly is useful for MPGs.... I still do it every fuel up, I have no idea why ;D

https://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/mr2_spyder/2005/azekiel/110883 *might default to US Units in top left

@JayPee404
This chart maybe helpful to you:
https://www.autolite.com/docs/default-source/tech-specs/understanding-spark-plugs/autolite_plug-tips.pdf

Also remember that the air filter determines the volume of air in the mix, too little / blocked filter could decrease your mpg.

Quote from: Joesson on October 17, 2023, 16:47Also remember that the air filter determines the volume of air in the mix, too little / blocked filter could decrease your mpg.

Unless it gets really dirty, less than one would expect. The electronics of the injection adjusts to maintain the A/F ratio.  But yes, do swap it out at least per maintenance schedule.

Thumbs up for iridium plugs.

If the ´reset´ by disconnecting the battery ´+´  does not restore previous fuel economy, think binding brakes?

Didn't realise resetting the ecu was that simple so will give that a go.

However, the break idea might also be valid as I have a noticeable squeak coming from the nearside rear, that is worse on light breaking and gone on heavy. I've started leaving it off the handbrake after reading around but the brakes definitely need looking at, and I have no idea what to look for

Quote from: JayPee404 on October 17, 2023, 20:35Didn't realise resetting the ecu was that simple so will give that a go.

However, the break idea might also be valid as I have a noticeable squeak coming from the nearside rear, that is worse on light breaking and gone on heavy. I've started leaving it off the handbrake after reading around but the brakes definitely need looking at, and I have no idea what to look for

First off I would give the brake hydraulics a work out statically with engine running, hand brake off, in neutral pump the  pedal hard and fast several times , if possible drive for a few miles and then repeat.
Either raise one wheel at a time, safely, or all four similarly, hand brake off and in neutral, and then spin / try to spin the wheel/s.
A binding brake will be noticeable, either very or less so.
If the calipers are OE the pistons are likely sticking in the caliper cylinders and failing to retract. Due to a combination of deteriorating seals and accumulated detritus.
On my car at around 19 years/ 64 K , an MOT advised a partial binding NS front  and I refurbished the front calipers and replaced the rears with aftermarket units.
The discs, after a little in situ reworking were OK as were the pads and were retained, cleaned and lubed as necessary.
I also replaced the flexible  hoses and of course the brake fluid.
My handbrake cable gaiter ends were in good condition as were the cables, moving freely and so were simply lubed in situ and the cables adjusted.
If you do this work in a "standard" width garage remove the obscured screws from the consul, outside the garage, before you start work on the car in the garage.
Ask me how I know to do this!

Quote from: JayPee404 on October 17, 2023, 20:35Didn't realise resetting the ecu was that simple so will give that a go.

Leave it a few minutes disconnected; enjoy a cup of thee/coffee.

QuoteHowever, the break idea might also be valid as I have a noticeable squeak coming from the nearside rear, that is worse on light breaking and gone on heavy. I've started leaving it off the handbrake after reading around but the brakes definitely need looking at, and I have no idea what to look for

If your drive/parking is a flat hard surface, then you can push the car forward/backwards. It should roll véry easily. I can shove mine about on slightly loose gravel!
Oh, best done with the top and window down so you can easily grab the handbrake if needed...
Brakes are rather critical ;)  If you have nó hands on experience, then either have a friend who has plenty help or go to an experienced local independant garage.

I can definitely push the car around in neutral / handbrake off, so maybe nothing is sticking, but something is definitely touching somewhere and the squeak is awful. you can literally hear it at certain speeds just rolling without touching brakes. Same spot during rotation causes this awful squeak. I have a good friend who used to be a mechanic so will have a look at it with him. Haven't looked at service history to check when brakes were last touched.

Quote from: Joesson on October 17, 2023, 16:47@JayPee404
This chart maybe helpful to you:
https://www.autolite.com/docs/default-source/tech-specs/understanding-spark-plugs/autolite_plug-tips.pdf

Also remember that the air filter determines the volume of air in the mix, too little / blocked filter could decrease your mpg.

This is great, I reckon mine are slightly carbon fouled as the engine is definitely running rich. I can see carbon building up at the tip of the exhaust also. Will do the battery today to see if it affects the car at all.