Project Slowpoke

[Petrus]

@SuperArt and @Ardent are two of the members with original TTE turbo cars.

The TTE turbo has about the same max output and the 2ZZ in the MR2 boiler room albeit with more torque whereas the 2ZZ has a way wider rev range.

Either is about as much power as you want for daily use on UK (winter) roads.

Also there are plenty of mods, adding lightness making the car quicker in évery aspect and stopping shorter.

[Slowpoke]

@SuperArt and @Ardent are two of the members with original TTE turbo cars.

The TTE turbo has about the same max output and the 2ZZ in the MR2 boiler room albeit with more torque whereas the 2ZZ has a way wider rev range.

Either is about as much power as you want for daily use on UK (winter) roads.

Also there are plenty of mods, adding lightness making the car quicker in évery aspect and stopping shorter.

Ah, those TTE turbo cars are a rarity - very cool.

In all honesty is it a bit of an inner battle not going down the 2zz route. I can't get enough of high revving N/A engines. I think it's just the easiness of living with a 1.8T engine that sells it for me - plus it is much better suited for tuning on the cheap.

Now that I'm thinking about it, a 2zz with a cut firewall to fit some ITB's would be fun 

And in regards to the lightness - I cannot wait to mutilate my car and cut out as much weight as humanly possible but with it being my daily I'm holding back... for now

[Petrus]

And in regards to the lightness - I cannot wait to mutilate my car and cut out as much weight as humanly possible but with it being my daily I'm holding back... for now

There is quite some to be done for free/cheap without getting in the way of daily use.
By all means read up on Belle´s thread (best read áll before questions    ) and the threads of me and @Node on Spyderchat.

As to the output of the 1ZZ there is the TRD or Markiii inlet, Cap Weir´s MAF mod and an unrestricted mid/cat pipe. Effective, noticable and a lót cheaper than an engine swap.

Oh and find yourself an industrial estate that´s empty on Sunday mornings 

[Slowpoke]

There is quite some to be done for free/cheap without getting in the way of daily use.
By all means read up on Belle´s thread (best read áll before questions    ) and the threads of me and @Node on Spyderchat.

As to the output of the 1ZZ there is the TRD or Markiii inlet, Cap Weir´s MAF mod and an unrestricted mid/cat pipe. Effective, noticable and a lót cheaper than an engine swap.

Oh and find yourself an industrial estate that´s empty on Sunday mornings 

I've gone through your intensive hunt for weight reduction and it is mighty I must say! By far the most interesting choice was the recent lexan windscreen. I think if my car ever makes it that far in development I'll be opting for rear and side windows in lexan only and keep the front glass from a safety perspective!

I'm also refraining from spending any money on the current engine - even though I could see some performance gains from some cheap breathing mods (and weight reduction in the exhaust), it's hard to justify if I'll be chucking it all away for a different block.

The purist in me will die at this but the 1zz just doesn't seem cut out for the chassis' potential.
Bring on the VAG???

[Petrus]

I'll be opting for rear and side windows in lexan only and keep the front glass from a safety perspective!

Ah well, Lexan is only 200 or so times safer than glass and in this case even 25% more because the Lexan is thicker than the OEM glass 

As to power, all has been said and done. Do as you seem fit. For the moment I´d suggest getting to grips with the handling. The stock engine can easily push speed óver the max though the real world corners even in summer 
And concerning cornering speed, more power does not raise the bar whereas adding lightness doés. Have a read up on tyre load sensitivity.

[Slowpoke]

Ah well, Lexan is only 200 or so times safer than glass and in this case even 25% more because the Lexan is thicker than the OEM glass 

As to power, all has been said and done. Do as you seem fit. For the moment I´d suggest getting to grips with the handling. The stock engine can easily push speed óver the max though the real world corners even in summer 
And concerning cornering speed, more power does not raise the bar whereas adding lightness doés. Have a read up on tyre load sensitivity.

I'm not convinced about the lexan... any use of wipers is surely going to scratch the screen if they have dirt on them - as soon as some sun hits those scratches I can't imagine you'd be able to see a thing! Have you coated your screen with any protective elements?

And yep, more power ≠ faster cornering speed. But it's the fun engine that the MR2 lacks. Everything else about the car is fun besides the engine unfortunately.

Easy way to tell is driving the car flat out vs progressive on twisty roads - progressive always puts more smiles on my face because I'm not wishing I could go quicker with a more powerful engine behind me! I can appreciate the steering and balance of the car instead (but most notably the sounds of the 80s playlist I'll be blasting out the window)

[Petrus]

I'm not convinced about the lexan...

Millions of motorcyclist have Lexan windscreens on their helmets and wipe those with dirty gloves. Did so too for several decades 
But hey; homo sapiens no urinate en vento 
There is só much more you can do before you get to the windshield 

[Slowpoke]

Millions of motorcyclist have Lexan windscreens on their helmets and wipe those with dirty gloves. Did so too for several decades 
But hey; homo sapiens no urinate en vento 
There is só much more you can do before you get to the windshield 

Bonnet webbing! Recognise that little gem anywhere

[Petrus]

Bonnet webbing! Recognise that little gem anywhere

´Back, báck, BÁCK!!´  -  Von Petrus, weight hunter.

[shnazzle]

Really enjoyed reading your thread so far
Thanks for taking the time! Kept me entertained on long travels.

[Slowpoke]

I've seen countless people on the internet obsess over carbon fibre parts and I always thought it was completely over the top and unjustified.

With that being said, my spoiler arrived today. I can not stop looking at it. I get it now. I understand the carbon craze.






I am so incredibly aroused by this. Twill weave 'cahhbo fibehh'. Well worth the 6 month wait!

[Slowpoke]

Quick update, brakes arrived!

With the amount of things that have arrived, I can't see myself tackling any of this until the weekend.

Also, despite the wing being ZZW30 specific, the width between the mounting legs is just a smidge wider than the vents in the engine lid. Slightly worried that this'll be a weak point in the metal so I'll have to come up with some way of reinforcing the mounting points. Some fabricated metal slats the same dimensions as the ones provided that go on top should suffice if I sandwich them underneath.

Any other ideas welcome!

[Petrus]

Also, despite the wing being ZZW30 specific, the width between the mounting legs is just a smidge wider than the vents in the engine lid. Slightly worried that this'll be a weak point in the metal so I'll have to come up with some way of reinforcing the mounting points.

Depending on hów close to the slits the generous supports distribute forces nicely. Remember that these are supposed to be dównwards and (by leverage) only púlling upwards at the front bolts. An überlarge stiff washer or any other flat force spreader will do imo.

[SuperArt]

The best way to mount a wing is to the chassis. Mounting on any body panel is not ideal, if the wing really does the job properly you could buckle a panel in the worst case.
Never actually seen it happen with a zzw30 mind so maybe lid mounting will be ok. *shrug*

[Petrus]

The best way to mount a wing is to the chassis.

The ideal is to not have the wing push on the suspension but that is unworkable theory only. Ditto not adding up a roll moment.

´Chassis´ is a bit confusing as most modern mass produced cars have a monocoque chassis/body. Thus working on the suspension wherever you bolt it down on.  As such it does not matter all that much if the wing is sitting on the rear lid because the force is vertically down.
What doés count is how far it is attached relative to the rear axle as thát distance is the lever potentially unloading the front wheels.

What doés count is that

[Slowpoke]

The ideal is to not have the wing push on the suspension but that is unworkable theory only. Ditto not adding up a roll moment.

´Chassis´ is a bit confusing as most modern mass produced cars have a monocoque chassis/body. Thus working on the suspension wherever you bolt it down on.  As such it does not matter all that much if the wing is sitting on the rear lid because the force is vertically down.
What doés count is how far it is attached relative to the rear axle as thát distance is the lever potentially unloading the front wheels.

What doés count is that

The ideal is to not have the wing push on the suspension but that is unworkable theory only. Ditto not adding up a roll moment.

´Chassis´ is a bit confusing as most modern mass produced cars have a monocoque chassis/body. Thus working on the suspension wherever you bolt it down on.  As such it does not matter all that much if the wing is sitting on the rear lid because the force is vertically down.
What doés count is how far it is attached relative to the rear axle as thát distance is the lever potentially unloading the front wheels.

What doés count is that

Yep, this was all taken into consideration. Ideally yes, the spoiler mounts would go through slits made in the engine lid and be mounted to the cross member in the engine bay. As I don't have the facilities or money to get those kinds of mounts fabricated, the off the shelf version will do.

[Slowpoke]

Wing was mounted this afternoon!

Wasn't a bad job at all - measure everything many times, drill the lid, apply some hammerite and you're good to go.

In all honesty, the wing looks a little out of place cosmetically as the car lacks an aggressive looking side profile due to no side skirts or aftermarket front end.

With that being said - I'm a function over form guy; despite the fact that I won't notice much of a difference with this thing on public roads  .

Photo time!

[Petrus]

The myth is that a road car is not going fast enough but that is .... myth. Like any good myth it has a core of truth because ´road car´ refers to the 2 ton ones common in the US.
On the 1k kg spyder aero counts twice as strong obviously.

The second ´truth´ is that aero forces increase with the square of the speed. They start adding up thpugh from 1!!! and already are a serious thing at cycling speed.
A sizeable aero mod like your wing has a faily large surface area and the effect adds up to kgs in the double digits from 50 - 60 km/h.   
Cornering at 80-100 it doés increase traction without adding centrifugal forces = raise limits.

Lastly the myth does not take into account that because of the lo MR² our spyder inherently is not the straightest arrow from highway speeds up.
Added to this is the aerodynamically not perfect round bum creating more than ideal turbulence/drag.
The two together can make the car feel not all that stable.
The wing will be like fletches of the arrow make the car feel more stable.
Also fitting a lip to the rear of the deck will increase the air speed under the wing/reduce the turbulence.

All in all, it doés work on our car at legal speeds.

Note on your wing: Because the supports are at fair bit from the side plates, the wíll be some bending downwards. You could use this to approximate the forces by ´calibrating´ the movement/force needed, measure it at speed and extrapolate over the wing surface.

Note to your install; the angle of attack seems a bit flat.

Here is mine:

[Slowpoke]

The myth is that a road car is not going fast enough but that is .... myth. Like any good myth it has a core of truth because ´road car´ refers to the 2 ton ones common in the US.
On the 1k kg spyder aero counts twice as strong obviously.

The second ´truth´ is that aero forces increase with the square of the speed. They start adding up thpugh from 1!!! and already are a serious thing at cycling speed.
A sizeable aero mod like your wing has a faily large surface area and the effect adds up to kgs in the double digits from 50 - 60 km/h.   
Cornering at 80-100 it doés increase traction without adding centrifugal forces = raise limits.

Lastly the myth does not take into account that because of the lo MR² our spyder inherently is not the straightest arrow from highway speeds up.
Added to this is the aerodynamically not perfect round bum creating more than ideal turbulence/drag.
The two together can make the car feel not all that stable.
The wing will be like fletches of the arrow make the car feel more stable.
Also fitting a lip to the rear of the deck will increase the air speed under the wing/reduce the turbulence.

All in all, it doés work on our car at legal speeds.

Note on your wing: Because the supports are at fair bit from the side plates, the wíll be some bending downwards. You could use this to approximate the forces by ´calibrating´ the movement/force needed, measure it at speed and extrapolate over the wing surface.

Note to your install; the angle of attack seems a bit flat.

Here is mine:

Yep, I can easily change the AoT thankfully, quite a bit of variance built in to the supports.

After driving it a bit I can notice the more stable rear end at high speed corners, but accelerating past 80mph is definitely a larger task for the car now...

[Petrus]

It stands to reason that the top speed will be lower but I have not nóticed any such effect in acceleration well into the illegal.
Same thing less fuel economy.
That observed, it must also be noted that I drive just about exclusively even windows down and had the impression that the aero actually impróved.

All in all, better stability and more cornering traction are great wins imo. Those I dó enjoy.

[Slowpoke]

Quick update in regards to the car - I've got some Sard sikeskirts on their way (as seen in image) as well as the C-One front bumper. With a little luck these should be painted and on the car before christmas.

In other news, I tweaked the seating position to give my knees more clearance under the wheel. Moved down a couple notches at the front and back on the Rouge Motorsports mounts and also moved back a couple holes.

It's a pain in the arse job unfortunately as whilst the split plate design of the seat mount from Rogue gives you some good adjustability, it's a ball ache to line up so that the bolts for the mounts will go into the floor nicely.

After a thorough test drive last night it is very surprising feeling the effects of my own weight moving down and back only a couple of inches and what it did to the handling of the car. Definitely encourages more rotation with less weight distributed over the front wheels. I can see why on some GT cars the whole cockpit is moved back and the driver sits behind the B pillar (although these cars are rarely mid engined so I might not have thought hard enough about this).

Also, brakes are yet to go on - I'm awaiting delivery of the right side Prius XW20 caliper before getting stuck in.

Should be coming together nicely very soon!

[Slowpoke]

Forgot to mention, increased the angle of attack of the spoiler and raised it using the many holes that were available to me. Slightly paranoid about it being stolen if I ever park it in a bad area though as all it takes is a spanner and allen key to grab all that carbon.

For the time being, I need to buy some more tyres so I can run matching wheels again - not a fan of the mismatch look.

Also, I can't stop watching 2zz content. I think I'm definitely warming to the idea of carrying out all the engine swap work myself and going down the light N/A route.

This would be paired with as light of an exhaust as I could get, along with an LSD, C60 gearbox and lightweight flywheel. Also tempted by an ABS and power steering delete eventually. Still need to prioritise buying a proper daily.

[Topdownman]

Its coming along!

If I had known you were looking for a front bumper I would have been suggesting my Top Secret one I have for sale!

(Also got some ET35 wheels for sale which would give a bit more track and stance...).

Could you get security bolts for the spoiler so they would need a bit more than an allen key to get it off?

[Alex Knight]

This is the exact video that made me buy an MR2 with the intention of immediately 2ZZ swapping it, which I duly did.

[Petrus]

This would be paired with as light of an exhaust as I could get, along with an LSD, C60 gearbox and lightweight flywheel. Also tempted by an ABS and power steering delete eventually. Still need to prioritise buying a proper daily.

Power steering delete is a doddle.

About the ABS delete I had concerns about the front rear balance but diving deep into the info found it has no bias provision. Any brake bias the ZZW30 has is in the disc diameter/calipers/weight distribution.
With the Prius calipers fitted up front, retaining the ABS may be useful.