Engine / Turbo advice needed

[tets]

After this footage came out of the recent Southport Sprint I have an issue I could do with advice on!

https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkxm4yr6onsaxvWAAAlpBND_RnOzAK6aoVJ?si=4-FQ8evGEZ5zRaYm

Fortunately it's the end of the season so I've got a bit of time on my hands until it starts again!

I have blue smoke! Cars running great at 4psi boost, no boost creep, 1ZZ injectors, RRFR with a starting pressure of 50psi on standard ECU and PE Turbo. This set up was how it was designed to run albeit I've added an intercooler where the fuel tank used to be.
The turbo was bench tested before I bought it and engine ran great before I turbo'd it.
It seems to be blowing smoke on deceleration as well as acceleration straight after on the way back but on the way out it seemed fine! Advice needed!

Below are 2 pics - the first is this engine when I swapped the sump - looks like it's had a hard life and the oil pressure isn't great when warm and on tickover - 10 ish psi
The second is my spare import engine that has been leak tested and compression tested before I bought it and results were great, also looks good!

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I have 2 engine options - drop the spare engine in as is and rebuild this one with forged rods and possibly pistons.
Rebuild the spare engine and drop it in leaving this one on the heap
Either will have 7.5psi, 2ZZ injectors (possibly VXR) and an Apexi PFC (or I sell the emanage blue and both Apexi's I have and buy an EMU Black, Link or Haltec!

Future proofing seems like a good idea if I get a bigger turbo and up the boost but I really like this turbo as it's tiny and I get no lag.

Having a quandary and this seems like the best place to steer me in the right direction

[Gaz2405]

What are your end power goals?

The engine in the 1st pic looks like it's had a very hard life with plenty of oil staining.

10psi at idle I think most are closer to 25psi.

If it was me, I'd run the one you've got in there until it's terminal and build the good engine with rods and pistons.(And emu black)

That way you're only dropping the engine once and your next issue will be the gear box as you chase the power.....😂

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281200624344?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lOibsWQHQe-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=qho5VRS4SQu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is turbo I ran on mine at 12 psi with next to no lag

[tets]

What are your end power goals?

The engine in the 1st pic looks like it's had a very hard life with plenty of oil staining.

10psi at idle I think most are closer to 25psi.

If it was me, I'd run the one you've got in there until it's terminal and build the good engine with rods and pistons.(And emu black)

That way you're only dropping the engine once and your next issue will be the gear box as you chase the power.....😂

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281200624344?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lOibsWQHQe-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=qho5VRS4SQu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is turbo I ran on mine at 12 psi with next to no lag

I'm not really stuck on a power goal but more drivability and low end power - obviously the more power the better!
I do need a rev limiter as I hit the limit a few times as I didn't change quick enough 

I'll do a compression test and see where we are but you could be right, the other engine seems to be a good one so only doing it once makes sense. I need to look at manifolds if I change the turbo unless I can make up an adapter but it is a bit of an oddity is this one!

I'll drop the oil, go up to 5w40 and see where we are over winter!
might need a hand / advice on the build as the last engine I built was a Sunbeam Ti engine back in the early 90's so a bit rusty to say the least

I'm on a Jap import box with LSD but do have a spare on the shelf (same spec)    - I'll probably go Jubu gears and a Quaife diff for that one in the future

[Carolyn]

Try replacing your PCV valve.  What you describe is typical.  Just because  it appears to function when you remove it. that doesn't mean it's doing its job properly. The internal spring tension is critical.

[simonrobinson]

When you are going full chat, then fully throttle off there are massive cylinder vacuums induced along with fast reciprocation and also the pressure differential in the turbo from slamming the butterfly closed at full boost, all turbos leak to some degree.

Even if you built a brand new engine I wouldn't be surprised if it still does it somewhat. Most turbo cars do it but they rarely get chance to see it because its behind them. This is why OEM turbo cars have very complicated PCV systems that make that lift off vacuum get shared into the crank case breather system to attempt to balance the crank case v's cylinder pressure differential.

I don't have the OEM PCV system on my turbo converted 1ZZ because mine lets the boost blow though popping the dipstick out etc as its just 1 valve not designed for the boost. Mine is a really worn out engine too and the lift off smoke is pretty significant, I just keep pouring more oil in it and it lives to thrash another day, maybe it might get to 200k on the clock? My back bumper is getting pretty gross although I quite like it like that, its certainly no show car.

[tets]

Try replacing your PCV valve.  What you describe is typical.  Just because  it appears to function when you remove it. that doesn't mean it's doing its job properly. The internal spring tension is critical.

I did take them out of both engines and chose the cleanest one - cleaned it up and shoved it back in!

I will try a new one as both would be 24 years old now so thank you for the info

[tets]

When you are going full chat, then fully throttle off there are massive cylinder vacuums induced along with fast reciprocation and also the pressure differential in the turbo from slamming the butterfly closed at full boost, all turbos leak to some degree.

Even if you built a brand new engine I wouldn't be surprised if it still does it somewhat. Most turbo cars do it but they rarely get chance to see it because its behind them. This is why OEM turbo cars have very complicated PCV systems that make that lift off vacuum get shared into the crank case breather system to attempt to balance the crank case v's cylinder pressure differential.

I don't have the OEM PCV system on my turbo converted 1ZZ because mine lets the boost blow though popping the dipstick out etc as its just 1 valve not designed for the boost. Mine is a really worn out engine too and the lift off smoke is pretty significant, I just keep pouring more oil in it and it lives to thrash another day, maybe it might get to 200k on the clock? My back bumper is getting pretty gross although I quite like it like that, its certainly no show car.

I get all of the above - I'll do the PCV, throw some thicker oil in and see how we are.
On another note, when I had a quickly homebuilt exhaust on (before I made the current one) it exited at an angle and I melted part of my bumper - it's a redeeming feature now!

[tets]

The new PCV valve arrived today although I'm off to Provence in the morning for a bit so it'll get fitted in a few weeks.
Am I better fitting it and retaining the pipe into the intake or fitting a catch can and routing it in there?

[Carolyn]

I'm all for using the original system.  So long as you block off the opening to the inlet manifold, I don't think it makes a heap of difference.