Black '03 Projects

[Chilli Girl]

Well done

[Trebordoody]

Also added a battery cut-off switch today - 5 minute job!

Hopefully won't need it much, but I think it will be useful over winter months when the car often sits for a week or two.

[J88TEO]

Had one installed a few years back and never had to charge the battery again...even after leaving not starting it for up to 4 weeks!

[Trebordoody]

Made the most of the good weather this weekend to finally install the under-dash sub. Like others, I went with the InPhase USW10, and I'm really happy with the sound now!

This is not a straight forward job at all! After figuring out the wiring path from the battery to the sub, it meant taking the storage bin plastics out (and the driver's seat) so I could get to the battery side grommet. I ran the wire (yellow in the pic) across to the driver's side an d under the seatbelt and door plastics to the front.



Then the hard part! Lying on my back in the footwell with legs over the back of the car for a couple of hours, I managed to install the metal brackets to hold the sub and then the sub itself. So fiddly, so frustrating, I think my shoulders dislocated a number of times. My wife asked what all the scratches were on my shoulders... 

There aren't many places to mount the sub to, but I followed the @shnazzle method with the brackets (and even the sponge), but also added a strip of builders tape for a bit of extra insurance and to spread the weight.



But it's in there and sounds great! Especially driving with the top down in the evening sun last night - just magic!!

Another job off the list! 

[shnazzle]

Where did you mount the other end? It looks quite upright compared to how mine used to be.
Did you use another bracket? 

[Topdownman]

Are you sure you havent just mounted a frying pan under there?!

[Trebordoody]

Where did you mount the other end? It looks quite upright compared to how mine used to be.
Did you use another bracket?

No, I used one of the existing bolt points on the cross member under the dash - I think it might even be the one that you originally had a bracket on which snapped and then decided to connect directly instead? I managed to get it on the bolt directly anyway, and there's room for my feet which is the main thing.

[Trebordoody]

No, I used one of the existing bolt points on the cross member under the dash - I think it might even be the one that you originally had a bracket on which snapped and then decided to connect directly instead? I managed to get it on the bolt directly anyway, and there's room for my feet which is the main thing.

And it might just be the photo angle tbh! It looks quite close to the pedals in the photo and it really isn't.

[Trebordoody]

Decided to give the soft top some care and attention on an overcast day, so used some Autoglym cleaner, applied Renovo roof dye (plenty of others on the forum seem to use this) and Autoglym waterproofer/protector.

Very pleased with the results! (The photos don't really do it justice tbh)

Before:


After:


And if you're wondering about the messy paintwork, it was being clayed between roof coat drying times
I finished off the detailing with DA polish and even new reg plates to tidy things up.



Ready for the next evening sunshine drive!

[Trebordoody]

Next (long overdue) job on the list is suspension refresh this summer.

I've just received my new KYB shocks:



But I'm still undecided on lowering springs - Tein seem popular and affordable, but others claim that H&R and Eibachs are less harsh and maybe more like OEM, but seem way more expensive. I'm thinking I might try Teins and see how I get on, and I can always change them later.

The other more tricky job is bush replacements. I'm not sure I can manage that as well on ramps and stands on the driveway, so tempted to get a local garage involved - they'll need to align it all anyway.

The aim is for a firmer, more direct ride (not bone shattering, but it feels a bit vague at the moment), so OEM feel would be fine, hence KYBs, but I prefer a lower stance. I'm also planning to get track day tuition later this year, so want to do some newbie track work but not looking for a pro racer set-up with coilovers etc at this stage!!

I've scoured the forum and still none the wiser on these things to be honest, so any recommendations (or maybe just pointers to good threads) appreciated!

[Trebordoody]

It's been a (very long) while! Back problems, poor weather and life getting in the way of spending time on the 2, but happy to get back to work on the car and start using it again.

First a quick update to the interior light - replace the dark cover and use LED bulb. The difference is literally night and day!

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[Trebordoody]

Finally got around to adding some kick plates behind the stereo to hide the multitude of wires added by the subwoofer etc.

Fairly simple job - cardboard templates, some ply, spray adhesive for the carpet material and velcro strips to keep them in place.

I found I needed to leave a gap behind the driver's side so I could put my foot on the rest without interfering with the clutch.

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[Trebordoody]

Final job for the weekend was to replace the driver's side door bar.

I'm 6' 1" and can fit in the car fine, but found that I couldn't change my foot position on the accelerator very well because my knee couldn't fit between the steering wheel and door handle. Seems like others have experienced this on the forum!

So I tried to find a strap and came across this paracord handle on eBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285503827670
Turns out the eyelets fit the length of the original door bar positions which made installation a doddle!

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To fill the door card holes (which needed some slight Dremmel fettling to remove a small part of the plastic), I just used black rubber grommets also from eBay:

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I'm very pleased with the result - it doesn't look too bad and now I can fit my knee next to the wheel. So much more comfortable on longer journeys!!

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Next job is a bloody good detail clean and polish, and probably a headlight restore - its looking desperate after it's winter hibernation. So happy to be back working on the car at last!! (and back on the forum of course!)

[Trebordoody]

Finally, a few days to work on the car!

A long overdue job was to de-rust the front end, so spent an awkward morning under the car wire brushing, zinc priming and Hammeriting. Quite pleased with the results and satisfied that there is protection at both ends now.

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[Trebordoody]

While the frunk plastics were all out of the way, it was a good opportunity to install the @Snelbaard steering UJ boot - took some patience, Plusgas and persuasion, but managed to get it installed after packing the joint with grease and I think it looks really good. 

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[Trebordoody]

All going well so far, but then noticed that the power steering pipes had rusted and had been leaking.

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I think they'd actually been leaking for a while, but the movement whilst installing the boot meant the pipe finally gave way.
Power steering fluid now spewing all over the mat I always put under the car (thankfully!) 

So now I have an order in for replacement pipes and Ravenol PS fluid and that will be the next job!

Looks like it failed in the exact same way as it did for @delhusband
https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=62450.msg853688#msg853688

At least I caught it before it would have given way somewhere miles from home!!

[Trebordoody]

Another MOT advisory (hopefully) removed from the list today - caliper rebuild!

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Looks like the old piston had seized up in the carrier, but all moving smoothly now" 

[Trebordoody]

Also managed to replace the power steering pipes.

The old ones were a right mess at the steering rack end:

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New pipes alongside old:

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All done and on to the next job!!     

[Joesson]

@Trebordoody , have you considered this:

https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/ps-light-power-steering-problems-try-this.50843/page-2

[Trebordoody]

@Trebordoody , have you considered this:

https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/ps-light-power-steering-problems-try-this.50843/page-2

Thanks @Joesson

The power steering has been fine actually, no lightness or issues to report beforehand.
This was really an obvious visible failure in the pipe due to rust.
There were a few spots of PS fluid around the subframe when I first checked so it was obviously weak, but after installing the steering U/J boot, there was fluid all over the matt and the P/S fluid bottle almost emptied. I think just slightly moving the pipes around the U/J must have caused final failure.

Gave it a quick flush with new fluid, put on the new pipes (which wasn't that difficult), topped up and bled it, and all seems good now!
No engine lights or noises, no dash lights and drives fine - so I'm happy with that one!

[Trebordoody]

Added some bling!

A fantastic new flat-bottom carbon and Alcantara steering wheel from Camil at T4CS:

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And a new gear knob (from AliExpress) to finish the look:

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I'm so pleased with the modernised look to the cabin and that steering wheel is just a joy to look at and use.    

[Trebordoody]

Been a while!!

After a winter break and weather improving in the "outdoor workshop" (driveway), I've finally managed to get around to some jobs on the MR2.

First was a simple fix to the door strap on the driver's door.
The door wouldn't hold open even on a slight hill - very irritating!
£30 inc. shipping for a new one from Amayama, door card and speaker off, three bolts to replace the door strap and job's a good un.

Simple but quite satisfying!

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[Trebordoody]

Next big job on the list - replace the struts!

I've had an MOT advisory about surface rust on the shocks and springs and shot gaiters, and didn't know the history so thought I should just renew the whole set-up on all 4 corners. 

I've been nervous about this one for a long time... you'll note in previous notes in this section, I originally bought new KYB struts and Eibach springs almost two years ago and always put it off!

Me: "Maybe I should get a garage to do it just to be on the safe side?
Me: "What's the worst that could happen?"
Me: "The struts could shoot through the bonnet while I'm driving, or it'll swerve me into a ditch"
Me: "But wait, you bought the car to learn about this stuff!?!?"

The hardest part really was getting all the right parts in place to build a new set. Its difficult to find a complete shopping list or everything you need to do in one place, but here's what I went with to make it an in-out swap with the old:

• KYB Struts
• Eibach Pro Kit Springs
• KYB Top Mounts
• OEM Dust Boots
• Front Top Plates/Spring Mounts
• Rear Bump Stops (Fronts are built into dust boots)
• Rear Roll Bar Drop Links

Plenty of YouTube watching later, I thought I'd finally give it a go.
It actually wasn't too bad - first one took a while figuring stuff out, but the rest went much quicker.

I wish I had taken step-by-step photos to help other newbies like me, but some things I noted:

• Get a printout of all the bolt torque settings - there are quite a few!
• Only one bolt was difficult but Plusgas, blowtorch, patience and effort got it out without breaking

.

• The torque settings are surprisingly high for those lower strut bolts - felt like I was going to break something!
• Using good spring compressors, eye protection etc gives you confidence but take your time! I didn't actually need to compress the springs as much as I expected to get them in
• The rears seemed to tighten up fine on the bench, but the fronts just kept spinning the centre strut shaft. I read that you shouldn't use vice grips to stop it spinning (although some apparently do) but managed to get the top bolt on enough to hold the spring at least. I eventually learned that you need to have the car off its jacks and under full weight to hold things in place, but it still twists things about a bit while torquing up!
• I didn't expect to have to put as much effort into connecting the drop links into the rear sway bar as I did - in hindsight, I guess its obvious it should be under some tension!

There are probably other tips and tricks available on this forum of course 

Old and new rears together:

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You can see that although there is surface corrosion, I was surprised that they weren't actually that bad and the springs are all intact. I'll probably put them on here for sale shortly for anyone who is interested.

In terms of lowering, I wasn't sure there would be much difference when you compare the old and new springs side-by-side. I was hoping for up to 30mm to fill the wheel arches, and it turned out that under compression there was a difference - which was great!!     

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Going for a test drive, I didn't feel a huge difference, but then I wasn't really changing them because of handling issues. It definitely felt newer and less rattly in the cabin on rough roads though.

Next step is 4-wheel alignment.
MOT in a couple of weeks, so hopefully that's a few less advisories to worry about. Fingers crossed!!

[Joesson]

@Trebordoody said:

The rears seemed to tighten up fine on the bench, but the fronts just kept spinning the centre strut shaft. I read that you shouldn't use vice grips to stop it spinning (although some apparently do) but managed to get the top bolt on enough to hold the spring at least. I eventually learned that you need to have the car off its jacks and under full weight to hold things in place, but it still twists things about a bit while torquing up!

Having read about this problem, when I replaced the shocks on my 2 I was careful to ensure that the flat section at the top of the piston rod engaged in the slot in the top mount. This I found held the rod to allow tightening the top nut.

[Trebordoody]

Having read about this problem, when I replaced the shocks on my 2 I was careful to ensure that the flat section at the top of the piston rod engaged in the slot in the top mount. This I found held the rod to allow tightening the top nut.

Thanks @Joesson,

I had figured out that flat section on the mounting hole when putting the strut assembly together, but it span the whole top mount with it as well (didn't have the same problem with the rears). I could have clamped the top mount somehow better I guess!

I did try a few things but couldn't hold that and the whole assembly well enough to tighten beyond a few threads. It was more than enough to secure it and get it on the car though, and then torqued up OK once the car was back on its wheels.