Eliana, my mostly-stock 2001 PFL

[bobo83]

The handbrake's not working on one side - I'd been meaning to service the rear calipers over the summer. Looks like I might also need Carolyn's recent guide on replacing the handbrake cables. Is it best practice to do those at the same time?

As Carolyn says, I'd start as well by checking the calipers and handbrake cables independently of each other. On my car both were bad but your luck might be different.

I've done both these jobs in the past few months and I also live in a neighbouring borough, would be happy to help.

[Gaz mr-s]

Which is good, because I had an MOT today... which it failed.
"Parking brake inoperative on one side Nearside Rear
Parking brake efficiency below requirements."

The handbrake's not working on one side - I'd been meaning to service the rear calipers over the summer. Looks like I might also need @Carolyn's recent guide on replacing the handbrake cables.

If the cables moves it can probably be restored to use.  I did so in 2019 & they are still working on the car.
The likelihood is the rubber gaiters on the rear end are in a poor state.

It's fixable, very cheap & a lot less arduous than changing cables.

[inigopete]

Well, I just about scraped an MOT pass - the mechanic wasn't happy, but the numbers on the brake test machine meant it got through. That's fine by me, I'm not going to use the car much during the winter and I'll do some proper work on it when the weather's nicer...

IMG_8185 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

It turns out the calipers are relatively new, pretty clean and the handbrake actuation on the back of them is moving smoothly. The pins were easy to remove, which I wasn't expecting! However, the n/s rubber boot is in tatters, which will have allowed a lot of crap into the cable.

IMG_8187 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

It also turns out that the previous owner, for some reason, has had the o/s handbrake cable replaced, but not the n/s one. I have no idea why you'd do this, surely while you've got the fuel tank dropped it's an easy extra step to do both? The n/s one was gritty, stiff and horrible, but I was able to free it up using Carolyn's guide, disconnecting both ends, soaking Brunox then thicker oil down the inner, and a lot of rattling back and forth.

I got everything moving and decided to make a temporary boot for the cable end out of a bicycle inner tube - it's a bodge, it ain't pretty, but it will work well enough through the few miles I'll do over winter!

IMG_8186 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

Adjusted the handbrake (it's still not pulling well on that side, because the connector behind the handbrake lever tries to balance them out), but it's good enough for now. I've got used to always doing the brake pumping thing before I park, and turning the steering wheel and leaving the car in gear if I park on a hill, as most of us probably have!

[Carolyn]

Adjusted the handbrake (it's still not pulling well on that side, because the connector behind the handbrake lever tries to balance them out), but it's good enough for now. I've got used to always doing the brake pumping thing before I park, and turning the steering wheel and leaving the car in gear if I park on a hill, as most of us probably have!

I suspect the cable has been stretched as a result of being so tight - hence the imbalance.

[Joesson]

I also have no idea as to why one would replace just one brake cable, considering the work involved. I suggest that is indicative of "if it isn't broken don't fix it" mentality. That certainly applies to the flexible hose ends that are more corroded than I would be happy with.

[Gaz mr-s]

Inner tube does not work well, it restricts the movement.  I assume you've put a 2nd cable tie on it.

I don't know whether anyone's used these yet, but they look near identical to the MGF gear cable rubbers that do work.
https://www.venhill.co.uk/rubber-boot-domino-ven207.html

You need very narrow cable ties.

[inigopete]

I also have no idea as to why one would replace just one brake cable, considering the work involved. I suggest that is indicative of "if it isn't broken don't fix it" mentality. That certainly applies to the flexible hose ends that are more corroded than I would be happy with.

Do you mean the hydraulic hose connection, going into the back of the caliper, on the right of my first and third photos? I wonder if it's time to replace those too, when I'm doing the handbrake cables, pads and discs in Spring.

[inigopete]

Inner tube does not work well, it restricts the movement.  I assume you've put a 2nd cable tie on it.

I don't know whether anyone's used these yet, but they look near identical to the MGF gear cable rubbers that do work.
https://www.venhill.co.uk/rubber-boot-domino-ven207.html

You need very narrow cable ties.

It's a fairly big inner tube, I did check it didn't restrict the movement but I'm also not confident it will last long or offer a lot of protection either! I'll replace it when I do the handbrake cables - thanks for the tip with the MGF / Venhill boot.

[Joesson]

Do you mean the hydraulic hose connection, going into the back of the caliper, on the right of my first and third photos? I wonder if it's time to replace those too, when I'm doing the handbrake cables, pads and discs in Spring.

I do indeed, I would say they have seen their best before date and need replacing.
In 2023 I replaced the two rear calipers, refurbished the two front calipers, and replaced all four hoses and, of course new brake fluid on my 2002 at <60k.