that is some plans you got going on there  
fair play for haveing a go
good that your starting with build thread
keep posting on here how you get on  

It will probably be ok. They just don't want you to wind the piston out.

All above my station, but I love this stuff.

I've had the VW 1.8T in a Golf IV, and a 1.9tdi 130 in the same, both happy smiley places to be.

I don't have the knowledge, skills or bollocks to do a conversion but admire those that do.

No idea how practical, but have always thought the the Alfa mito 1.4 cloverleaf (170) would be a great idea. (I also fully accept it might not) and or the 1750 (220) found in giulietta cloverleaf.

It has aligned perfectly when I dry fitted it.

The engine mount on the cambelt end of the engine simply bolts in the place of the original mount.
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The gearbox end engine mount isn't quite as straight forward. There is a lump in the Audi parts of the mount that needs chopping off. This is pretty straight forward to do using an angle grinder and a file to clean up the cut.
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Lump removed to provide a nice flat surface for the other part of the mount to bolt to.
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The Zurawski conversion mount bolted in place. All the engine mounts are works of art, made from stainless steel using clever interlocking cnc design and some very nice TIG work.

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Before you fit it you are meant to turn the piston in as far as it'll go, then back it out half a turn or so to get the dimple/peg aligned with the brake pad notch.

Hi all,

Today I picked up my RHR brake caliper and my dumbass decided to check if the parking break mechanism work so I pushed on the lever. A moment later I noticed a label on the mechanism saying: CAUTION, DO NOT operate the lever before fitting and applying the pressure! Ooops. What have I done?

This is the basic engine mount kit from Zurawski motorsport, comes with the engine mount plates and the parts needed to use the MR2 gear shifter with the Audi gearbox.
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The conversion calls for the gearbox from a Quattro as one of the engine mounts uses the transfer box mounts.The transfer box is the big lump on the side of the diff housing and transmits power to the rear diff in a Quattro setup.
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Remove the drive flange by undoing the allen bolt deep inside the centre of the drive flange, the transfer box is then unboltable from the gearbox.
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The engine mount kit comes with a nice cnc'd peice of aluminium that bolts in place of the transfer box. This plate seals up the oil passages that let gearbox oil into the transfer box in the original set up. It also takes the drive flange oil seal and has threaded inserts on the rear of it to bolt the rear engine mount to. A different drive flange is required as the one that came with the Quattro setup will no longer work. A vw 02M409356A or 02M409356 will be needed instead. A new gearbox flange oil seal is also required 02M409189
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Mount bolted in place.
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Threaded inserts that the engine mount will bolt to.

First part of doing the conversion required me getting hold of a suitable engine. I opted for buying a whole car, rather than an engine from a breakers or the internet, for a couple of reasons. One was so I had everything from the Audi that I might need and the second reason was that I could get to drive the car and prove it was running ok before I started.
After a bit of searching I found a 225 roadster for sale for sale on ebay that wasn't too far away from where I live. After a little day trip to Great Yarmouth I drove the TT home and then used it for the next month.
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 The next step of the plan was to remove the engine and gearbox which was done over the course of a weekend.
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Along with the engine and box I also removed all the wiring for the engine. The ecu has 2 plugs going to it. One of the plugs goes to the engine loom and is easily unplugged and all the connections to the engine left in place. The second plug goes to a couple of bits on the engine and to a bulk head plate which is just above the pedals inside the car. Undo this bulk head plate and there is a load of multi plugs under the plate. Undo all these plugs and you end up with both the wiring looms that go to the ecu. This wiring loom is required for the conversion. You also need to remove the entire throttle pedal assembly from inside the car, this is also required for the conversion.

Hi. I'm due to actually make a start on converting my 02 PFL MR2 to Audi 1.8t power this week.
Thought I'd start a build diary of the process.
First things first a couple of pics of her before I start the work. I've owned her around 18 months and done a couple of mods in that time. Shes got a Malian bumper exit back box with only one of the 2 outlets fitted, a 4 branch manifold and whiteline anti roll bars,front and rear.
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I've been busy in the garage refreshing a 1.8t engine from a 225 Audi TT, with a plan to fit it to the MR2 using one of the Zurawski conversion kits.
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Engine was completely stripped right down. New crank, thrust and main bearings fitted. Cylinders honed and new piston rings installed. A set of uprated conrods were fitted in case I want to go for more power in the future. The rods being a known weak point on these engines over a certain amount of torque. Cylinder head was fully stripped down, skimmed and then rebuilt with new valve stem oil seals and the original valves. The whole carnk assembly balanced. New single mass flywheel,clutch and slave cylinder. The turbo was fitted with a new CHRA with a uprated 360 bearing. The whole thing rebuilt using new gaskets and stretch bolt where required. New cam belt kit and water pump fitted.