Just fitted the antiflex plate from pdye's car to my roadster, and although I have yet to drive it in anger the prognosis is good, especially now I've had a chance to properly compare the new bracing with Toyota's own weedy version.
The Anti-flex plate replaces the two pressed steel braces that tie the two sides if the floorpan together beneath the seats, the new plate is a far more substantial device that has far more rigidity, and should do good things for handling...
Here's a photo of the plate and the OEM braces side by side for comparison:
(http://www.spydermagazine.com/files/GSBantiflex.jpg)
I have teh same one.
Best comment I can make is to those that have th hardtop.
Think of teh improvement with teh hardtop on. Now imagine that without the hardtop on. It's not far away.
Did you check the weight difference at all s:?: :?: s:?:
IMO, something all owners should invest in.
Quote from: "Slacey"IMO, something all owners should invest in.
Do you know the price of them Sean approx s:?: :?: s:?:
I think mine was around £80 shipped from the States, but now the rate is so good, it should be a fair bit less now. I'll see if I can find out....
Quote from: "Slacey"I think mine was around £80 shipped from the States, but now the rate is so good, it should be a fair bit less now. I'll see if I can find out....
Very good value then for the improvement it makes then s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
£47 plus shipping at the moment.
It seems that iMR2 (who made the AntiFlex PRO that some of us have) no longer makes them, but Corky (who did a GB for us a while back) may still do... I have PM'd him to find out.
His price (last year) was $65, so around £35 at todays rate, but shipping will have to be added.
I'll let you know what he comes back with.
Quote from: "heathstimpson"Did you check the weight difference at all s:?: :?: s:?:
No. I dont have a set of scales here sensitive enough and my spring babalnce has gone walkies...
Its a little heavier, but the new brace is aluminium vs. the original steel, so its not very heavy.
To give you an idea, I was easily able to lift it into position with one hand at arms length (I didn't bother to jack the car up for fitting) so its not going to dent performance. On the contrary, the car now feels a great deal more 'solid'. Its a brilliant mod.
Quote from: "Slacey"but Corky (who did a GB for us a while back) may still do... I have PM'd him to find out.
Indeed he is:
m http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=9973 (http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=9973) m
(http://ghcutters.com/CeeDapp/BP1.jpg)
These are being sold for $75.00 plus shipping to Spyderchat members, and in my opinion of course, are probably a superior design to the one I have.
HOW easy to fit is it then? GSB, you said you didn't even lift the car up. How on earth did you do that? s:shock: :shock: s:shock: Impressive.......
I take it all the right "holes" are already there for fitting? Not "modification" has to be done to fit it?
All thats required is to take out six bolts and push three cable clips out, place the (lightweight) plate up against the underside and replace the bolts, then clip the cables back - easy.
Quote from: "John Woodward"HOW easy to fit is it then? GSB, you said you didn't even lift the car up. How on earth did you do that?
1/ Park the car on level gound. Select a ratchet and a 12mm socket. lie next to the car and you can reach under and undo 3 of the bolts holding the original braces on.
2/ Move round to the other side of the car to reach the other 3 bolts. The skinny rear brace will now be free.
3/ Unhook the cooling pipe from the pipe clip, to release the front brace. I only had one clip on my car, those with Air Con may have more clips to undo.
4/ Remove the clip from the old brace and fit it into the new brace.
5/ Put the new brace in position, hook the pipe back into its clip, and put the 6 bolts in. Tighten to 28ft/lbs with a torque wrench.
Thats it! Total time for fitting was less than 10 minutes. Absolutely anyone can do this mod, and its really worthwhile. The same is applicable for 2003 model owners too, as they still use the same OEM braceing as the earlier car.
Will you lot please stop finding things for me to buy! s:) :) s:)
Might have to invest in one of these too, as I feel the chassis, even with the hardtop on, could do with a bit of stiffening..
Corky has got back to me, and shipped on an individual basis he has quoted $125 shipped, which is £67 at todays rate, a bargain if you ask me, and this could be reduced if we ordered a few.
If there is enough interest, I would be happy to arrange a GB for you all, please post a note here if you are interested.
I'd be interested, please.
Damn you Sean... s:D :D s:D
Yes I'm interested.. (Sorry Mr Bank Manager! s:roll: :roll: s:roll: )
What's Corkey's one made of?
It looks like wood in the photo above! s:) :) s:)
Testomonials on SC are great though.
I'll have one at that price.
Simon
Quote from: "SimonC_Here"What's Corkey's one made of?
It looks like wood in the photo above! s:) :) s:)
LOL! It does a bit!
Seeing as there have been three replies in less than ten minutes, I'll go ahead and set up a GB in the Buying/Selling forum, I'll add you three but can others please register over on the new thread, thanks.
Quote from: "SimonC_Here"What's Corkey's one made of?
From looking on SC I'd say Alu plate with Alu bar spot welded to it..
anyone thought about making these themselves, doesn't look too hard,
anyone got some diagrams, measurements, i have access to a machine shop at BA so i think i'll give this a go
GSB is tht 3 plates riveted across the main plate to strengthen it? s:?: :?: s:?:
Quote from: "aaronjb"Quote from: "SimonC_Here"What's Corkey's one made of?
From looking on SC I'd say Alu plate with Alu bar spot welded to it..
doubtful, Ally is a bitch to weld and requires real specialist equipment, we have it in the aero industry but it takes a lot of skill to use, Corkey's is more than likely to be composite, probably Nylon s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
True - but they mentioned Anodising on there.. which AFAIK can only be done to Alu?
And where the bar is attached to the plate looks very 'shiny' and bobbly like a weld...
Quote from: "aaronjb"they mentioned Anodising on there.. which AFAIK can only be done to Alu?
ahh, strange then, anodising can be done to nearly any metal, its just a damn bit easier on Ally due to the low melting point, Steel can also be anodised, and with the cutouts would make it a lot lighter and easier to weld on
anyone got one to clear this up,
i'm going to use Durallium, its a alloy of Steel and Ally, making it really strong, easy to work with and with special chems damn easy to corrosion protect,
Quote from: "kanujunkie"i'm going to use Durallium
Sounds like something off Star Trek s;) ;) s;)
Have heard of it though.. in fact, have a sneaking suspicion the bodywork of the 300ZX was made of the same - or something that sounded very similar (bodyshops would refuse to work on it because it wasn't 'normal' pressed steel..). Still rusted, mind.. just less!
Quote from: "aaronjb"Quote from: "kanujunkie"i'm going to use Durallium
Sounds like something off Star Trek s;) ;) s;)
was origionally designed for aircraft due to good corrosion properties and weight to strength ratio. You wont generally find it outside the aero industry but is very similar to T6 Ally as used in most mountain bikes nowadays
guess all i need now is a dry day to measure up! could be waiting a while i guess! s:? :? s:?
What about using Titanium or would the costs be too prohibitive s:?: :?: s:?:
i could do as i have access to it at work, but it can be a bitch to work with, especially as i don't have access to a miller and the metal i can get would only be max of 1/8" thick. Would that be enough?? I was planning on using 1/4" minimum
Anyone got any design ideas? s:? :? s:?
Quote from: "aaronjb"Quote from: "kanujunkie"i'm going to use Durallium
Sounds like something off Star Trek s;) ;) s;)
No that's dilithium - A crystalline substance used in warp propulsion systems to regulate the matter/antimatter reactions that provide the energy necessary for faster-than-light speed. Naturally occurring dilithium is extremely rare and is mined on only a few planets, such as Coridan, Troyius and Rura Penthe.
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Quote from: "Peter Laborne"Quote from: "aaronjb"Quote from: "kanujunkie"i'm going to use Durallium
Sounds like something off Star Trek s;) ;) s;)
No that's dilithium - A crystalline substance used in warp propulsion systems to regulate the matter/antimatter reactions that provide the energy necessary for faster-than-light speed. Naturally occurring dilithium is extremely rare and is mined on only a few planets, such as Coridan, Troyius and Rura Penthe.
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:oops: :oops: s:oops: s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
and Mentalus!!
s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted: s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
I believe the topic is "Antiflex plate chassis brace" as opposed to "fictional metals in sci-fi" s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
/admin
As far as I'm aware, Corkys plate is Aluminium, with Aluminium cross braces welded to it. Aluminium is weldable, but not by us mere mortals with an argos mini-mig in our garden sheds. It takes skill and decent equipment, but provided you have both, its fairly simple...
My one is aluminium plate, roughly 3/16" thick with reinforcing bars attached with countersunk machine screws.
Quote from: "GSB"My one is aluminium plate, roughly 3/16" thick with reinforcing bars attached with countersunk machine screws.
Sounds like the "MR2-Spyder.com"-version..?
(I have one of those myself)
Btw, just for the record...I think Cusco was the first one to offer these plates and they still do. The rest are more or less copies, not that it really matters. Cusco one is aluminum with blue anodization. It's not just a plain plate, but has two "pressings" on it (and several holes). Had I known about it when I bought mine, I would've gone that way. The price was only some 70 euros (a bit under £50)...
FWIW I was speaking with TTE on Friday, and as part of the development of the turbo kit, they've been required to add some structrual reinforcement. Their current design (purely bolt-on) is a large 'X' that goes across the whole of the under-section from front to rear. It was agreed that there may well be a market for it to be sold on it's own too.
Quote from: "mph"FWIW I was speaking with TTE on Friday, and as part of the development of the turbo kit, they've been required to add some structrual reinforcement. Their current design (purely bolt-on) is a large 'X' that goes across the whole of the under-section from front to rear. It was agreed that there may well be a market for it to be sold on it's own too.
you might want to post more info on the TTE kit so people that are planning to cut their arm off for financing it (ie myself) dont spend any additional money s:) :) s:) .... i was about to join the GB until i read this..
Quote from: "GSB"Aluminium is weldable, but not by us mere mortals with an argos mini-mig in our garden sheds. It takes skill and decent equipment, but provided you have both, its fairly simple...
i beleive thats what i said earlier!
Quote from: "spwolf"you might want to post more info on the TTE kit so people that are planning to cut their arm off for financing it (ie myself) dont spend any additional money s:) :) s:) .... i was about to join the GB until i read this..
I believe the two would be complimentary. TTE have yet to decide on the exact contents of the turbo kit; they still haven't decided about the power output yet! The only thing to be certain (as much as it can be) is that it'll cost less than €6,000. They are still confident that it'll be out 1st half of this year.
GSB wrote:Quote1/ Park the car on level gound. Select a ratchet and a 12mm socket. lie next to the car and you can reach under and undo 3 of the bolts holding the original braces on.
2/ Move round to the other side of the car to reach the other 3 bolts. The skinny rear brace will now be free.
3/ Unhook the cooling pipe from the pipe clip, to release the front brace. I only had one clip on my car, those with Air Con may have more clips to undo.
4/ Remove the clip from the old brace and fit it into the new brace.
5/ Put the new brace in position, hook the pipe back into its clip, and put the 6 bolts in. Tighten to 28ft/lbs with a torque wrench.
Thats it! Total time for fitting was less than 10 minutes. Absolutely anyone can do this mod, and its really worthwhile. The same is applicable for 2003 model owners too, as they still use the same OEM braceing as the earlier car.
Cheers GSB!!!! Seems pretty simple to me!
Goddam!!! I have just bought the vents and now I might have to buy something else............stop DOING this to me! I am trying to sort my house out! I am skint so pack it in!!!! s:roll: :roll: s:roll: s:wink: :wink: s:wink: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "John Woodward"Goddam!!! I have just bought the vents and now I might have to buy something else............stop DOING this to me! I am trying to sort my house out! I am skint so pack it in!!!! s:roll: :roll: s:roll: s:wink: :wink: s:wink: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Welcome to the darkside...
(http://www.avforums.com/forums/images/smilies/diablotin.gif)
you want to buy a turbo ... you need to buy a turbo ... you have to buy a turbo ... you must to buy a turbo ... modifications are good ... money is bad ... you don't need money ... you need modifications ... you love your car ... your car loves you ... you love modifications ... your car loves modifications ... love your car ... satisfy its needs ... buy modifications ...
Quote from: "mph"Welcome to the darkside... (http://www.avforums.com/forums/images/smilies/diablotin.gif)
you want to buy a turbo ... you need to buy a turbo ... you have to buy a turbo ... you must to buy a turbo ... modifications are good ... money is bad ... you don't need money ... you need modifications ... you love your car ... your car loves you ... you love modifications ... your car loves modifications ... love your car ... satisfy its needs ... buy modifications ...
Lol Martin!
But oh so true s;) ;) s;)
Mind you, I do like the subliminal messaging.
Now where is my CC, Must buy a turbo! Must mod my car, Don't need to eat. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Simon
Well Markiii kindly fitted my Corky this weekend before the treasure hunt (thanks to steve for driving my car up the ramps as i chicken'd out! s:oops: :oops: s:oops: ).
The difference is amazing... the car just feels more solid and stable (especially in the fast corners). Like mark said, its like having the hard top on the car but without the hard top! On the treasure hunt i was VERY impressed with the handling round the twisty bumpy roads. For all you waiting for your corkys... its worth the wait! s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
We have taken photos of the install etc and will get a write up on the web site shortly on how to fit it.