To help me keep track, and also give people at work something to nose at im going to do a thread which I will hopefully update, but im pretty lazy so maybe i wont, but i hope to..
The mr2 arrived as an old hass kit turbo, EMB, no intercooling, exhaust far too loud, not a lot of power. poor sound system. and me clueless about roadsters
So far I have installed an Android powered APP radio by pioneer, speakers to go also. That was while I was tidying the garage to give me some tunes.
In her new home.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/1new%20home.JPG)
The car has now been stripped back end, engine has stayed in, but the manifold/turbo/exhaust/sump is all removed.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/2back%20stripped.jpg)
Then the old hass flange was cut off, i found the manifold cracked beyond what i'd be happy to sell it for, so opted for recycling
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/3cracked%20hass.jpg)
Then an ebay special 200sx equal length manifold was bought, and the flange removed
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/4ebay%20special.jpg)
I then chopped up a couple of the runners to make them fit the smaller port spacing,
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/5chop%20chop.jpg)
Some shoddy stainless welding and heatwrap/thermal painting later and its ready to bolt on(will clean up flanges first)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/6spraywrap.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/7spraywrap.jpg)
Next on the to-do list. to help me remember and so you can nose, i will add bits as i remember my plans so if any mods need to change anything please pm me my original because this is the only working list i have. i've needed to write a list for a long time as i keep forgetting what i need to buy.
Make a new 3" stainless exhaust.
fit my EGT/Wideband and Det monitor
Remove seperator in the stock inlet.
Add some capacity to the sump and baffle it.
re-pipe the coolant/oil lines for the turbo because i keep stabbing myself on the stupid braided hoses.
fit oil cooler
Plumb in my chargecooler and associated gubbins
****put car back on the road****
Install referenced fpr+return and walbro pump.
wire/map the EMB to control the boost
Remap the EMB to compensate for the chargecooler, new exhaust and boost levels, fit my water injection if need be.
fit lowering springs
Fit EBC brakes
Make propper roll cage protection bar.
new wheels/track tyres
Thrash it round combe s:) :) s:) lol.
Will be following this, good luck bud s:) :) s:)
Paul
Nice project there buddy.
I recognise that car. Good project and nice to see this stuff.
Not sure a 3" exhaust is really necessary, a 2 1/2" one should still flow enough and make noise control easier, especially if you are going to use it on tracks with a noise limit, but whatever you want to go for is cool.
A really good exhaust can definitely be the making of a good turbo install.
I'll be interested to see how it all goes. Thanks for posting up.
Thanks for comments.
I agree 3" is not needed, but my plans if the engine pops (probably a when not if with me, I can never stop fiddling) it will get steel internals and low comp. At which point a larger turbo will get bolted on and boost raised, THEN it will need 3" and ill only have to modify it rather than build from scratch s:) :) s:)
u built your own header! Impressive!!
Are the internals stock? I'm assuming its still the 1zz motor. What boost will you run it at?
yeah this engines a stock 1zz (as far as i know)..
Got no goal with reguards to boost, but im going to try to keep the torque up and around 240-250 for as much of the graph as possible as that seems to be the recognised limits for rods/gearbox, then if it does go poof, i'll buy another engine and build it up s:) :) s:) So the boost will just end up whatever it needs to be to achieve that, so will be rising towards the limiter to keep torque flat.
inspired plan, using that ebay manifold and modding it.
did you get lucky enough that everything still lines up with the exhaust? or is a case of don't care as you building a new one anyway?
Seriously nice project mate.... Will be keepin eyes peeled
Yeah i was always going to make a new exhaust so didnt mind. im probably mounting the turbo backwards anyway, ie inlet on the right, so will need to make new input/output pipes reguardless s:) :) s:) not fully decided yet.. got to see which way fits better. but i figure less bends in the exhaust will be more benificial than less bends in the intake as the exhaust has to flow "more"
if you have the room to mount it backwards, I would. then put the filter in the bumper recess like the Top Secret and C2 do
Nice job , did you TIG weld? I never got to play at that technique but your weld looks very good.
norman
Yeah, the intake will definately be going into cold air, not the hot engine bay like hass had it..
the welds you can see are tig but i used mig for the bits i did, you can only see one weld of mine which is the one on the finished article holding the support bracket to the flange. mig in stainless is okay but not great, or rather i should say, me and my welder are not great at stainless. its only a hobymig and i coudlnt find stainless in a wire smaller than 0.8mm, i'd have preferred 0.6mm so i could run a faster wire speed without such amps.
Got a bit of play time today,
ended up investigating the removal of the plastic separator in the intake..
OK so first view with a torch, these arnt bad photo's that's actually just all you can see.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/IMG_1489.JPG)
then i hit a screwdriver through it to give me a hold to pry it out its location
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/IMG_1496.JPG)
then basically smashed the smeg out of it and pulled it out (this is much more of a pain in the ass than it sounds and looks, its strong plastic and a small hole)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/IMG_1497.JPG)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/IMG_1498.JPG)
and then the nice empty chamber you're left with, i think its worth doing personally as it not only reduces the chance of it ending up in your engine, but makes the inlet much more how i would expect a turbocharged car inlet to be in the first place.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/IMG_1499.JPG)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/IMG_1501.JPG)
the manifold was also bolted on temporarily and the turbo orientation considered before deciding to definitely reverse the mounting from the hass kit.
the outlet will be a quick 180 back toward the rear to the chargecooler, and the inlet will be removed and replaced with a 45degree aiming behind that stainless head shield into the cold air behind the bumper rather than hot engine bay like hass kit.. yuk..
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/IMG_1492.JPG)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/IMG_1493.JPG)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/IMG_1495.JPG)
edit todo list
Make a new 3" stainless exhaust.
fit my EGT/Wideband and Det monitor
Add some capacity to the sump and baffle it.
re-pipe the coolant/oil lines for the turbo because i keep stabbing myself on the stupid braided hoses.
fit oil cooler
Plumb in my chargecooler and associated gubbins
Install referenced fpr+return and walbro pump.
wire/map the EMB to control the boost
Remap the EMB to compensate for the chargecooler, new exhaust and boost levels, fit my water injection if need be.
fit lowering springs
Fit EBC brakes
Make propper roll cage protection bar.
new wheels/track tyres
Thrash it round combe s:) :) s:) lol.
This weekends update, i've cut off the flange from the old inlet, and welded it onto a 90bend ally pipe to plumb the filter into the space behind the bumper.
i've also made 90% of the turbo outlet pipe (in steel this time), but thats not finished yet, so next weekends playtime.
the original inlet removed
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/inletoncar.jpg)
the original pipe on right with flange cut off and welded on my new pipe on left.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/inletpipe.jpg)
and on the car with a pipe i had "in stock" lol.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/inletoncar2.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/inletpluspipe.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/38079758/inletpluspipe2.jpg)
Serious work goin on mate... Fair play
I will be watching this closely. Love watching a build s:) :) s:)
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Been a bit lazy with major jobs, but been doing a lot of reading and planning. Money is the time-constraint on this build, i'd have it done in a few weeks if i had the parts.
Anyhow, upgraded to EMU, changed from 3>2.5inch exhast due to funds and room.
started the exhaust build, straight out turbo into cat.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-01%2011.29.17.jpg)
stripped fuel tank down to replace pump, welded old FPR up ready for a return-line system.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-01%2011.27.57.jpg)
Finished my turbo outlet pipe ready to plumb in the chargecooler, bit of a tight bend, but had to be done as the turbo can't be rotated easily due to actuator mounts.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-01%2011.33.33.jpg)
worlds largest chargecooler in place, copper elbows ready to braze in for water feed/return in confined space,
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-02-16%2013.33.54.jpg)
I've also started to sand blast a spare set of wheels ready for painting, feels like i've done more than this, but i think i've just spent a lot of time tidying and organising the garage.. all worth while, but not immediately productive. I've also decided to pay up for an OBX sump rather than faff around fabricating one, because i'd rather have tried and tested design, than build something that looks good, but may or may not function.
finish the exhaust is the next job. at the moment i fear it may be a bit loud?? lol
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-01%2011.34.04.jpg)
Nice. Same charge cooler as me that one pal s:) :) s:)
It's overkill, but I want to run it as low boost as possible for the given power. high power low boost engines feel so RAWWW compared to high boost engines, definitely better suited to the roadster chassis. Can't wait to get it on the road in its new configuation, hopefully this year money dependant.
It's coming a long nicely. Bet you can't wait to get out and drive her again.
Good work with the fabrication. Great to see thinks being improved with thought of the owner & then by the owner.
Yeah looking forward to the drive, had to take my time due to finances, but i've been hoarding parts over the last year or so, meaning im nearly there and have a now "minimal" spend to buy the remainder parts and just my time s:) :) s:) hoping for a spin this summer, though I won't be able to drive her properly until i've had time to get the map right, and need a friends help for that as im fairly sure its not wise or legal to drive while on a laptop s:D :D s:D
Some good progress doing little pipes and stuff mostly. but engine bay looking more like it should now, chargecooler pipes all done, new plugs installed and injectors ignitors etc all back together.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-23%2013.51.42.jpg)
Exhaust grew a little bit more (all be it with insulation tape welds at the moment lol), just needed to get a feel for where it would sit so i could order the boxes which i've now done.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-23%2013.51.59.jpg)
also welded on a dump valve take off, re-configured the turbo's water and oil lines, installed my obx sump and oil sandwich and filter. also got the fuel pressure regulator setup outlined, just waiting on my fuel pump in the post before i do that. i've also gutted the speakers and installed a nice set of 220w kenwood 3way, vaccumed out the glass from inside the door from the apparently previous break in, and weighted up the damp proofing so it doesnt crackle.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-23%2013.52.20.jpg)
V-bands and exhaust boxes in the post, so thats the next major job when they arrive to weld all that up.
It's coming a long nicely!
Looks wicked mate!!
Exhaust was too loud? Pffft
Quote from: "James and his MR2"Exhaust was too loud? Pffft
yup.. for a lot of traks at half revs you need to be under 110decibels, this was over that at idle lol.. doh...
Woah!! lol. Wonder what my car is at decibel wise, do plan to do a track day soon. Is there anywhere I can get a free test?
Quote from: "James and his MR2"Woah!! lol. Wonder what my car is at decibel wise, do plan to do a track day soon. Is there anywhere I can get a free test?
Gotta be some free apps on the App Store surely?
Quote from: "stupink"Quote from: "James and his MR2"Exhaust was too loud? Pffft
yup.. for a lot of traks at half revs you need to be under 110decibels, this was over that at idle lol.. doh...
It was far too loud! Gotta love the hass scaffold exhaust! Your new system should be a huge improvement for looks and sound!
Quote from: "parker455"Quote from: "James and his MR2"Woah!! lol. Wonder what my car is at decibel wise, do plan to do a track day soon. Is there anywhere I can get a free test?
Gotta be some free apps on the App Store surely?
Not when your smart-phone has given up after over 3 years s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
There are apps, but obviously they aren't going to be calibrated to your phone, would give a good idea though, but I just bought a Meter off ebay, it was less than a tenner if I recall. I've never checked myapp against my meter I probably should.
Just got an App for the job, should be roughly about right. Will test it on my cobra and see how loud it is!
Another few hours today,
These turned up this week, financially made no sense to build the boxes at the price of the parts.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-28%2021.04.35.jpg)
So have welded up the cat fully now, and tack welded in place the rest of the exhaust, still want to cut the pipe again just after the flexi and add a second Vband, i want a removable system to make working on the car easier. Need to get some rubbers next and some stainless rod to make hangers before I finish the welding off the car before final fitment. currently supported all by electrical tape and blocks of polystyrene.. not sure thats quite how the pro's do it haha.. Also brace the cat to the block to hold the weight of the turbo.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-29%2018.01.30.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-29%2018.01.55.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-03-29%2018.02.06.jpg)
Been out for a few hours tonight,
rebuild the fuel pump assembly with a walbro high flow pump, and made a fuel return ready to be reinstalled in the tank.
Stripped exhaust all back down and welded it up fully, added the hangers, Vband, bosses for the o2 sensors, polished up the tailpipe and painted the leadup(thought it would look better) bolted the turbo up with all the gaskets, and reinstalled the exhaust. All final now, not coming off again now. (until i break something, which sadly i will)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/exhaustfinished.jpg)
Bumper popped on to check i got the heights right etc.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/exhaustbumper.jpg)
Few remaining jobs before TAX/insurance time (then mapping etc). I'm thinking i will probably heatwrap the exhaust at least up until the flexi. keep engine bay temps down a bit. but i'll run the engine first to check for leaks.
Today I did some of the fueling,
Having installed a walbro 255ltr into the fuel filter cage and fitted a return line into it, today i re-installed it into the tank, ran a new pipe to the fuel rail, which put in a T piece then ajustable fuel pressure regulator(so i can reference to the turbo boost pressure), then ran the return back to my newly made return port.
temporarily fitted it to a gauge rather than the rail, ran the pump and set it up to 3bar static.
I've also installed the turbo oil and water feed/returns. I feel like i did more than that, but I think it was just one of those days you spend a fair few hours and achieve very little due to a lot of try this try that do this do that, then go back to what you tried the first time lol.. kinda like women shoe shopping :p
new return line
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/returnline.jpg)
the new pressure reg, its a webber one off a cossie, pop the cover plate off and they're ajustable by allen key.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/2014-04-05%2022.06.48.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/fpr.jpg)
some tasty fab skills you have there nice project to
Looking good s8) 8) s8)
Seemingly slowing down, but more because i'm doing little faffy jobs that take as long as some of the bigger ones but leave little to show.
Stripped the front end down and got a radiator on order for the chargecooler,
Got the chargecooler back in place and welded on some brackets to hold it in place permanently.
The patented electrical tape positioning system being applied again..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/chargec.jpg)
Weldy weldy
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/weldy.jpg)
hangy hangy
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/bracketscc.jpg)
Made a little expansion tank and bracket for the car, tank at highest point feasible, then didnt take a picture, sorted out the pipe from the tank to pump, pump to cooler, will need the rad before i do the rest.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/ccpump.jpg)
Then sorted out the inlet pipework to the turbo, sits nicely behind bumper, and in the cool air feed from the drivers intake through the rear quarter panel.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/intake.jpg)
I've also installed some bleed nippies on the charge cooler, as it is supposed to be installed vertically so will trap air.
no jubilee clips on anything yet, as im going to finish the car, then attack the shop and buy brand new clips for the whole build, re-using second hand clips always causes problems down the road(in a litteral sense).
Project is coming a long nicely! So close to getting her back on the road!
Nice work, will be satisfying when running s:) :) s:)
Been busy playing, no time for updates.... but wideband all installed, knock meter installed, oil pressure and temp installed, emanage configured and installed and "guistimate" map uploaded. added an oem lambda sensor again, heatwrap on exhaust and chargecooler installed. chargecooler pre-rad installed. oil and water topped up.
Key turned s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D brummmm brummm.. mot booked for 13th, gives me a few more days to refit all bumpers , and cable tie up electrical cables etc.
Didn't start to begin with, fuel pump relay found to be fried. so i need a new one of them, nicked the aircon one for now.
Then the map which was a mix of what was on the ECU when i bought it (another 1zz map) was pretty dodgy tbh and it woudlnt start, so myself and my friend zeroed it out a lot on the fuel and also removed some airflow ajustments at idle. now runs a treat and sits at 14.7AFR rock solid. sounds nice too. though quite noisy still with engine noise due to being over a pit. be nice to get the bumper back on etc and get it out on the drive see what the exhaust soundsd like properly. that will be this weekend..
i have some more build pics ill update when i get time, but for now its get the car done, thread updates can be done later s:D :D s:D
Good work s:) :) s:) look forward to the pics
Few old pics..
chargecooler pre-rad in place and piped up, I've now also installed a fan control module that monitors two probes, one air one in the cooler fins and turns the fan on at a user setable difference.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/prerad.jpg)
Raised the number plate up a bit to give a little more flow
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/highplate.jpg)
Heat wrapping on the exhaust(normal glass wrap), exhaust boxes and chargecooler as well as chargecooler pipes that run near exhaust (foil backed glass matt). Also installed boost control solenoid to the Emanage ultimate sub injector port to decrease spool time and raise the boost a bit. 30amp relay added for coolant pump, gauges, pre-rad fan etc.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/heatwrap2.jpg)
Bumper all back on permanently(for now lol)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/rebuilt.jpg)
Now just need to rebuild the front and interior and its MOT time. then I have a few extras like the brakes and suspension and wheels to finish while i'm getting the map sorted.. then hopefully just drive it s:) :) s:)
today noticed the fuel line is soft s:( :( s:( think i've been supplied the wrong type of hose and its reacting.. going to be a pain to get at now to re-do, but has to be done.. gonna give them hell when they're open tomorrow as i specifically requested fuel hose for petrol, even asked if the hose was rated for in-tank immersion which they said no to(not surprised as most arnt)
MOT .. PASS... SWEEEEET!!!
She drove nice to and from the garage too, all be it stinking of exhaust paint burning off, and on very light throttle (cough, may have hit 6psi, damn it spools easy!!!)..
So now she's on the road, next job is to map it, Pickup my new alloys off lee and get some decent tyres on there,
Then a few more upgrades,
Swap out the brake disks/pads,
fit my lowering springs (and maybe shocks as a minor possible leak on one shock has been spotted by mot. or i may let it develop after a degrease to be sure)
Track it!! woop woop s:D :D s:D
Clutch is SOOOO juddery though, I'm not sure what is in it, i believe some paddle clutch or other, but i've had them before and its not very flat surface, looks like the flywheel may need resurfacing, but i'll do that next clutch. not like its gonna last long.
Congrats!! The clutch from memory was horrible - it's a 6 paddle jobbie fitted by the previous owner before me it's hard work in traffic.
Great work! Bet it's a hoot. Who is gonna map it for you?
Quote from: "s12vea"Congrats!! The clutch from memory was horrible - it's a 6 paddle jobbie fitted by the previous owner before me it's hard work in traffic.
Yeah it really is horrible isnt it, i find myself getting a back massage every time i try to pull away.. the bite point is quite large, so its not just poor clutch control, i think the flywheel must be warped or something. i've had paddles before and they're smooth just bitey. hopefully it will smooth out with more hard use, and or just wear out and i can buy a new one lol.
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Great work! Bet it's a hoot. Who is gonna map it for you?
Going to do as much as i can myself from logs (drive with log, home and edit etc) and also the Autotune feature of the greddy, but also got a friend who's going to come out with me a few times and drive to help get the fine tuning done.
Wow that's pretty cool. Proper home build. Great work that man
And that's day one of mapping! lovvveeee the car so much more now.. drives much nicer.
here is a before and after.. Gtech numbers, for those that dont know this is done on an actual road run, and therefore is Wheel horsepower minus wind resistance etc (about 10hp typicaly).
The before is as the car was with a standard HASS kit (black lines)
After (red lines) is the new setup running the same boost as before, Next step setup boost controller s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
The rpm needs recalibrating a bit, but i wanted to use the same settings as I used to measure the car standard, clearly the rev limit isnt at 6000rpm but the gtech picks up rpm through the power supply and needs calibrating to be accurate.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/Screenshot%202014-05-14%2020.26.07.png)
So about 210hp wheels 250hp crank on 8psi.. which is quite random as i insured the car for 250hp as i wasnt sure what it would make lol. so gonna need to up the policy after i play with the boost.
Is 250 about right for 8psi? what does that kinda boost normally make? need to iron the fueling out a little more, but dont think it will change peak power much.
Map looks smooth and I would be happy with this numbers, it's a different animal I'm sure
Nice looking graph, looks like the power delivery is quite smooth?
Yeah its ridiculously smooth.. even the previous setup on the graph felt pretty smooth, the G meters are so accurate that they pick up things you can't feel. who says turbo's have too much surge to be driveable s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:
only problem I have at the moment with it, is it pulls harder and harder then hits the rev limit.. so im going to have to get used to changing gear by rpm rather than waiting for the power to tail off a little like you typically do.
If ever there was a need for a shift light, it's here and now! :-) :-) :-)
Quote from: "StuC"If ever there was a need for a shift light, it's here and now! :-) :-) :-)
Haha. Very much so. Insurance goes up quite a bit at over 250hp. So I'm now pondering solving two problems with o e stone. Up the boost but at 250hp cut it back and hold at 250. Insurance company happy. Car faster so I'm happy. And means it will tail off again making gear changes easier.
I'll have to see what happens.
what turbo are you using? good to see you are in Devon, i live near okehampton but work in plymouth, recently bought a MK3 to play with and will most likely turbo mine in the winter so great to read your build thread for inspiration
Quote from: "stupink"Quote from: "StuC"If ever there was a need for a shift light, it's here and now! :-) :-) :-)
Haha. Very much so. Insurance goes up quite a bit at over 250hp. So I'm now pondering solving two problems with o e stone. Up the boost but at 250hp cut it back and hold at 250. Insurance company happy. Car faster so I'm happy. And means it will tail off again making gear changes easier.
I'll have to see what happens.
How could they know in the event of an accident what psi you're running and what hp it's putting out?
Not condoning it, just wondering myself!
I was thinking the same. Bhp figures are very subjective.
and another factor, in the event of a complete write off.. I hardly imagine they're going to stick it on a dyno? s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
Quote from: "keljon"what turbo are you using? good to see you are in Devon,
Its a Gt28R, i don't believe you need anything larger on these engines unless you start rebuilding the block for high boost, but i'd not like to run anything smaller on a naturally aspirated engine thats not been de-compressed.
Quote from: "parker455"and another factor, in the event of a complete write off.. I hardly imagine they're going to stick it on a dyno? s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
I'm sure a lot of people do tell porkies, and get away with it fine..
*IF* you cause a death by dangerous driving or put someone in hospital and the bills are gonna be astronomical then you'd be suprised what insurance companies will do to avoid having to pay out.. their easiest tool is the internet, its no coincidence they give you a discount for being a member of a club (where you blabber about how much power your car has lol)
but yeah it would indeed be quite a bit more effort than they'd probably bother with for small claims. I know these are older cars, but you'd even be surprised what a modern car ECU logs and dobs you in on to the dealers diagnostic computers etc.
I'm an ADI, needless to day, i'll insure it as it is, but that doesnt mean you can't play the system and tune the car to a good insurance deal s:D :D s:D
I see. That's mad, wonder what the mk2's ecu logs. Still, time and a place for everything, can't afford to drive dangerously!
Sensible, fair play
Had trouble getting my Emanage to control the boost, but its sussed out now. more to come, just a minor play today to get it working.
Previous results.. 250hp, current results... 250.. haha.. Same insurance, faster car s:D :D s:D win win.
black is the previous results in the last graph i poste (which were red).. red is how it is now, mostly stopped boost creep by using the Emanage to hold the pressure away from the actuator until the required boost is reached to stop it opening early, the car is now running....... 8psi still. lol. just the whole range not just up high. so next step maybe 10psi dropping to 8psi to keep the power down. thats probably where i'll leave it then.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/boostcreepcut.png)
Some figures for the geeks (sadly with a lot of scrabbling about on my crappy tyres and dusty test site, but at least that means its quicker in reality not slower)
0-60mph 5.0s on the dot.
0-30mph 1.9s
30-50mph 1.7s
40-60mph 1.5s
5.0 to 60 is pretty impressive ! Power curve looks sweet too
New Shocks and springs and EBC brakes and hells brakelines now fitted, new fluid flushed...
pro-race 1.2 purchased and currently attacking them in my shed with my homemade sandblast cabinet ready to paint and get some decent tyres. #alloypaintisthedevilswork
Silly annoying tapping noise still there, no better no worse... But i've picked up another engine (a smoker) to strip and rebuild ready to swap over if it does break in a rod-tastic block destroying manner.
Like your thinking about rebuilding the engine, it's def on my list of things to do. Can't be THAT hard can it? s;) ;) s;)
Didn't really do many pics this time. was a ballache paint stripping the plasticote.. but a mix of paint stripper sandblast and mechanical removal.
the rims were corroded and lightly curbed, was going to re-do them black,, then kinda didnt..
after paint strip attempt 2093 before final sandblasting
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/bare.jpg)
Then painty prime prime, spray spray.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/painty.jpg)
All dry ready to go on, may have oversprayed my entire garage red lol..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/redgarage.jpg)
New shoes.. not sure why they keep looking orange, they're mostly red (hammerite smooth)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/new%20shoes.jpg)
Personally, i really like them. Good job! s:) :) s:)
Think they'd look better on my car, when shall i come get them? s;) ;) s;)
Wheels look good!
Are they 15's or 16's?
Width and offset?
Brave choice but you have the bhp to pull the look off!
They are team dynamic 1.2. 16" 7inch 35offset I believe.
Currently on 195/215 nankang/Goodyear (goods at the rear so don't think mixing an issue). But yoko ad08r going on 205/225 soon as I have the pennies. Sits a little lower than the PIC as its off road on uneven ground. But perfect height. Can still get full lift jack under front and rear beam jacking points. ☺
Not totally happy with the handling yet. I'm thinking maybe an uprated front rollbar may be needed.
Quote from: "stupink"New shoes.. not sure why they keep looking orange, they're mostly red (hammerite smooth)
Don't worry they defiently don't look orange... they look pink s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "James and his MR2"Quote from: "stupink"New shoes.. not sure why they keep looking orange, they're mostly red (hammerite smooth)
Don't worry they defiently don't look orange... they look pink s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I've said that to my friends knowing my luck they'll fade to pink s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
They don't call you Stu-Pink for nothing, haha. Hopefully not they do look good, red seats and they could probably look even better
Found it hard to put my finger on the handling issue but got there in the end.. it was the power delivery more than anything destroying my confidence.
For those that don't know the Emanage don't provide boost control, so you're stuck with either wastegate or spending silly money on a controller. So what I did which a few others have done is use the Emanage Sub-injector map to map and control a boost control solenoid... Et-Voila... boost control..
Now I copied the setup off the interwebs assuming the experimentation had already done and best configuration applied... WRONG!!!!
Essentially they reccomended the map be Boost v's RPM so you can set the boost by entering the appropriate duty cycle in the box correlating to boost you wanted.. but this meant all the boxes above and below were useless and not used. Waste of a good map... It also meant you had the same boost duty cycle at 1% throttle as you did at 100% throttle, which believe me made a mental car.. you'd be cruising along in 4th, apply light throttle and bang 15psi instantly and off you went lol.. felt like a rocket but mid-bend was un-settling..
So i deleted that map and did it my way.. Changed the sub injector map to one of RPM v's throttle position.. So now I have low duty cycle on the solenoid at low throttle, and high duty cycle at full throttle only, with a linear increase.. So essentially the throttle is now a boost controller, and the power is back progressive as it should be. (the biggest complaint people seem to have about turbo cars!).. Essentially mid bend you don't poop yourself now if it decides to take-off.. it only does it when you ask it to and MEAN it...
Left on my to-do list.
Finish mapping ignition(still quite conservitive low-mid rpm)
Buy AD08R
Uprated front ARB
Make reinforced engine mount set.
Re-fit the sump which is slowly crying all over my drive.
Get it on the Rolling road to make sure my accelerometer isn't too far off power wise to make sure my insurance is correct.
Get it on the track s:) :) s:)
Fix What broke on track.
So a few little updates from the list..
I got a stethiscope thingybob attatched to the engine block so we could go out and fine tune the ignition map.. got that sorted..
fitted a non-return valve because the wallbro pumps don't have one so the car didnt start very well.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/nonreturn.jpg)
So with the ignition all sorted it was off to the rollers,
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/rollingroad.jpg)
And the results a little higher than expected, but once you've had it, hard to turn it lback down or it seems slow. so will go with the flow for now.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/rollingroadgraph.jpg)
The engine mounts were struggling (stock oem mounts with kirk inserts), and the car was hopping about a bit driving away, So I bought a second hand set of mounts, sandblasted the left/right mounts and filled the gaps, with the torque mounts(front/rear) i removed the rubber completely, and then poured 60a polyurethane liquid rubber into them and let it set..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/enginemounts.jpg)
bit messy, but never used the stuff before and expected it to set faster than it did, so it expanded slightly in a few places, and overflowed in a few.. but know how to do them now, so may make a second set from my old mounts.. Anyhow got them fitted and drives nice and smooth now, way less movement than before, and not really anymore vibration.. hoping they will stand up to the job. if not im confident i can pour the polyurethane better now(essentially mixed it too cold and so it took forever to set).
To-do list
Tyres
Front Rollbar
Poly bushes (either make my own or buy a kit, not sure yet)
Some nice figures there.
Like the idea of making your own poly bushes well done.
Must be a little monster! Makes me want to build one more and more.
200bhp in a roadster is fun
230bhp epic
250bhp + Insane amount of power in a lightweight car!
Yeah, but I'd have put the 0-60 a fair bit lower than 5? I guess it probably is when on good surface etc etc. my old mk2 turbo used to launch like a stabbed rat, best but about the car, 1st was non existent, just a noise before you grabbed second and got mashed back into your seat. But much heavier I guess and it had massive rear tyres, 9j I think with good rubber.
Awesome project, approaching 300hp and all DIY, even mapping. s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
I've not tested any figures in current form I must admit. Probably won't bother until I have a nice hot day and/or better tyres. At the moment first and second does struggle to grip unless conditions are perfect. Tyres just not that good. (Goodyear excellence 3.5mm left). That said I was having lots of issues with the mounts ruining the feel, may be able to balance better now.
Had a couple of plays and got a 4.5s 0_60, thats with a 2.05s 60ft time, so it should be lower... I'm guessing these cars can do 1.8s 60ft easy enough?
My current issue is rev it high and launch, and the clutch slips and won't grip(and by high i just mean 3-4k).. rev it low and launch, it bogs down.. so its actually pretty difficult to get a good launch on it at the moment. not that im bothered, its not a drag car.. but i'd like to know what it can do s:) :) s:) so when the clutch wears out, it will get uprated some more..
Oh man take me for a spin!
I agree its nice to know just what it can do. If only to shut the people up who say you should have bought porsche/mx5/etc etc.
haha.. she is definitely good fun... anyone passing plymouth is welcome to pop out for a demo s:) :) s:)
That's a great effort but I'd strongly recommend you wind that boost back a bit. You must be right on the knife-edge of a con rod failure... one tiny boost spike and it'll fail. (I have understood correctly that it's a stock engine , right?)
What boost would you recommend for everyday use and overtake boost on a stock engine Matt?
Yeah its a stock engine matt.
If it was a daily driver I'd not risk it. But its just a toy, all be it one I hope to give some track time. I'm supprised the stock rods cope with 140hp so I'm under no illusion I'm taking a risk. If they break I'll put a set of H beam steel rods in the new engine as well as lower the compression ratio.
Dave. Its more about torque and rpm with rods. Boost isn't directly relevant but matt knows the power of this engine so is suggesting a boost cut based on that. So sadly there's no such thing as "safe" boost level.
Quote from: "Davegtst"What boost would you recommend for everyday use and overtake boost on a stock engine Matt?
As Stupink says, it's not an exact science. 11psi is considered the max boost on a stock engine but you couldn't hold that at the higher rpm because the rods are being subjected to much higher loads already (without the boost). Most people would work with 10psi in the mode range tailing off to about 7psi at the top end.
The other thing to factor in is boost creep. As the engine gets hotter and you start loading it up in the higher gears you will most probably see some boost creep. On the road you tend to use the lower gears so this is less likely but on track (one with some reasonably long straights) I'd expect to see this phenomenon and I don't think it'd last half a day. I'd love you to prove me wrong because the turbo kit set-up (and results) you've achieved is terrific. Good luck Stu.
Cheers Matt, hopefully i'll "get away with it", I tried the car lower power and it just wasn't fun enough for me(spoilt by last car), so it's either risk it or don't use it until I can afford the time/money for steel internals. I've already got the spare engine, so i'll play with this one till it pops, either it goes and i end up off the road for a while anyway, or it keeps going and i get some fun out of it and don't waste money on internals i dont ever use. s:) :) s:)
Hi Stupink this is a great thread. Can I clarify some details which I may be confused about?
1) You are using a completely standard engine including 10:1 compression ratio?
2) You are getting 250bhp at the wheels and 293bhp at the crankshaft?
3) You are using 8psi boost max?
4) Presumably you are using high octane fuel of some sort?
Sorry if I have misunderstood any of this but I am intrigued to know what the potential of this engine is.
Thanks
Quote from: "lamcote"Hi Stupink this is a great thread. Can I clarify some details which I may be confused about?
1) You are using a completely standard engine including 10:1 compression ratio?
2) You are getting 250bhp at the wheels and 293bhp at the crankshaft?
3) You are using 8psi boost max?
4) Presumably you are using high octane fuel of some sort?
Sorry if I have misunderstood any of this but I am intrigued to know what the potential of this engine is.
Thanks
All correct bar the boost.. I was initially running 8psi but it was not quick enough.. so its now setup higher.. about 12.5psi spike, drops very gradually to about 11psi at the redline. I tried bp97 and had occasional det, tesco 99 seems cleaner even with reduced ignition retard.
Thanks, so was it 250 bhp with 8psi and 293 bhp with 12.5psi boost? If so, did you need high octane fuel with 8psi? (I note the BMW 335i runs 8.8psi on a 10.2:1 compression ratio on standard fuel, do you think the 1zz could do the same?)
I have an sp turbo pushing 230bhp installed by matt and was told to use only high octane fuel.
I try to use Tesco or Shell fuels.
I'd always run premium fuel, Tesco's 99 i've found bang for buck good. My mk2 import turbo runs it nicely at 12psi boost and advanced ignition.
What boost and compression ratio is yours running 1979scotte?
And do you have an intercooler?
Intercooler is a must
No you were right the first time the figures are fly and wheel as it is. I'd never run a turbo car on std pump fuel let alone a naturally aspirated turbo conversion.
That's not to say you can't. The standard ECU is epically good at retarding ignition to compensate. But you'll end up with a horrific power delivery. Likewise without inter cooling. It will just run too hot, det, and the ECU will cut it back, it will feel horrible.
Quote from: "lamcote"What boost and compression ratio is yours running 1979scotte?
And do you have an intercooler?
Intercooler yes.
Compression ratio is standard no altered internals.
Boost i am not sure 7psi? Matt would know its his kit.
Thanks for all the replies, really interesting.
One more question I have is, based on Stupink's last comment about the standard ECU.
Is it possible to run a turbo installation with the standard ECU only? If so is there a maximum power that it can handle? I was expecting that any turbo would need at least a piggy back ECU if not a standalone option.
Thanks guys, sorry if I'm asking daft questions!
I'm not sure anyone does it. But if you were able to sort the fueling with an ajustable pressure reg. I get the feeling the std ECU will sort ignition for low boost as long as it was not too hot I take temps. Mass air flow meters really do create a bit of flexibility. But I would imagine the boost you could run would be fairly limiting. Go piggyback or full ECU.
Did the TTE turbo kit do without a piggy back ecu?
God i want a turbo! Hmm might start picking bits up over the next year.
I don't know how you non turbo guys do it. I suppose we give you something to aspire too though.
Quote from: "Davegtst"I don't know how you non turbo guys do it. I suppose we give you something to aspire too though.
Less weight, some suspension and brake tweeks and a well driven na car would keep up with a turbo car in track, been there, done that s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "Davegtst"I don't know how you non turbo guys do it. I suppose we give you something to aspire too though.
Ain't it the truth s:!: :!: s:!:
I keep up very nicely in the twisties with a Turbo friend of mine s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "1979scotte"Did the TTE turbo kit do without a piggy back ecu?
No the TTET came with a piggy back. It was very much a sealed unit though and you couldn't really mess with it
Quote from: "Davegtst"I don't know how you non turbo guys do it. I suppose we give you something to aspire too though.
s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Let's reduce the power of our engines so we can be faster around the track.....
Said no formula one race team ever..... s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:P :P s:P
Are you on an intercooler or a charge cooler stu? I'm shopping for a charge cooler at the minute but the one I won on ebay (twice) didn't meet reserve! Same with the cars, I've won one mr2 3 times now! Lol.
Chare cooler. Its pictured in the posts. IMO there's no good place on these cars for a decent sized intercooler. Its either too small, too much pipework, or in the flow of hot air from the engine
Random little update.
My second engine is now stripped and down the shop for a rebore, saving to buy a rebuilt "kit" for it and will then get it all together and swap it in to reduce my oil consumption which is currently about 300ml per 2-400miles.. not silly, but kinda annoying. (i only drive the car rarely and 50miles at a time so this equates to once a month)
Current engine now has a uprated actuator rather than boost control via the ecu on a lighter actuator, just trying to get it to hold boost better high rpm without faffing around mapping it (hard when i can't map and drive). so now holds 12psi solid rather than dropping to 10/11..
Fueling is still a little lean, the injectors are actually maxing out duty cycle about 5,500rpm(but just scraping an acceptable AFR), so i've got some 470cc to go in, which should be sufficient even if i need to turn the fuel pressure up a little.
I've got my AD08R tyres on now, eeeepic!!! I can now drive the car even in the rain, ok first and second will light up, but in a very controllable manner thats not too dodgy, back kinda stays inline just spins up a bit.
beyond that i've just been driving it s:D :D s:D
oh and i may have accidentally put an actuator on too strong and been out for a blatt with 20psi hahahah SOOO much fun, but would never last so that got sorted after the car cooled down! haha.
Inectors arrived last night, so today I have fitted them.. I did a bit of research and came up with 470cc Astra VXR injectors for £80 deliered (second hand), they come up ALLLL the time for that sort of price, are near as damnit a direct fit replacement for my white giants (already got the loom modified for them).
Essentially the top had a bit too much plastic for the retaining clip on the VXR, so I' trimmed them down.. all in place and running nicely now s:) :) s:) Great price for a set of bosch injectors, and worthwhile considering anyone who's upgrading, a good flow size and a good genuine bosch injector for the price s:) :) s:)
Just trimmed with a stanley blade, not difficult the plastic is quite soft.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/vxrmod.jpg)
Searching sandwich plates...which did you use? Do you recommend?
Fitting oil temp and oil pressure gauge
Thanks
I can't be much help i'm afraid, I just used the one on the car when i bought it. but I fitted my temp gauge into the sump to get sump temp. the sandwich is just a cheap one as I havn't got a cooler other than OEM, so don't need thermostat. so litterally any will do if the right size if its just for oil feed for turbo and pressure s:) :) s:) if its pressure only you could just make a T piece and use the OEM port above the filter and not even have a sammich s:) :) s:)
Thanks, I want to fit oil temp and pressure gauge, so will have two sensors. Do you think it's best to go with a sandwich for both sensors?
Not interested in drilling my sump though! s:( :( s:(
I don't see the point in having oil temp anywhere but your sump. rephrase, I would rather not have oil temp anywhere but the sump. because otherwise you're just measuring how much temp is being held in the block, or that the oil pump is adding etc.. not how effective your oil cooling is... do you have a standard sump then i take it, what you're looking to do then is find or fabricate a oil drain plug that has a centre core to take a temp sensor. then no modifications to your sump are required, and you'd just ahve to disconnect the wires before unscrewing the sump plug, small extra hasstle when doing oil changes. then you can just run a T piece for the two sensors pressure wise. no sammich needed
That's interesting thanks for letting me know.
I'll look into it.
I am planning on getting a baffled sump in the future so can use that but I won't be for a while.
Is there an easy and convenient place to t-off for the pressure point on the mr2?
Just unscrew the oem pressure switch, then put a block adapter in and scew both sensors into that s:) :) s:)
That sounds sensible, thanks for the information s:) :) s:)
Don't suppose you know the thread for the sump plug; is it m12 x 1.25 (fine)?
Also same question for the pressure adaptor
Thanks for all your help!
Be careful with the pressure as I think its an odd tread.
Oil switches or senders are often a tapered pipe thread of some description
Oil pressure sender is 1/8 BSPT which as men3cac mentions is a taper thread, plenty of adapters out there though.
This is my oil pressure switch/sender, it is mounted remotely where the carbon canister was and fed by a stainless oil pipe, I wanted it up there as it looked a bit tight and precarious hanging off the front off the engine.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p704/tjobrien72/AF3B4C06-EA69-4BCD-9C4D-11E16E3EE11E_zpsgcmj3w5f.jpg) (http://s1347.photobucket.com/user/tjobrien72/media/AF3B4C06-EA69-4BCD-9C4D-11E16E3EE11E_zpsgcmj3w5f.jpg.html)
I agree with stupink in terms of oil temp and have tapped straight off the Eliseparts sump, the sender for a Stack gauge was M10 x 1.25, but I guess manufacturers vary.
Lately a fueling/noise/boost issue has appeared,, been a wierd one thats been hard to trace as the symptons have varied each time i tested it.
Found two of the four turbo bolts had fallen out (they are a notorious pain in the bum to fix well due to the temperature and movement).. and also it seems I had a de-cat somewhere along the way lol..
Ebay sports cat was installed..
but it tried to escape..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/catgone.jpg)
you can just about see the missing center part wedged further down the exhaust on a bend.. no wonder the car wasnt making boost properly.. oops..
Not sure if the cat was bad, if i've fitted it too far to the turbo (shouldnt matter) or if some of the ignition cuts i had while setting up may have blown the cat apart.. (read.. i maaay have tried launch control briefly a few months ago, and its notorious for killing cats).
Lots of great info here mate...
A good project well done.
What caused the cat to go?... are they rubbish, because I have been looking at these for my project.
I'm fairly sure the cat death was my fault and that it only died after i played around with launch control, which is something you shoudlnt really do with a cat installed. So sadly I can't comment on their quality, and whether or not it would have coped fine with normal/hard use.. I think i would be tempted to buy a decent one if doing it again personally though as we still struggled a bit to get it hot enough for MOT (a problem you'll always have with a sports cat though to be fair)
Quote from: "stupink"I'm fairly sure the cat death was my fault and that it only died after i played around with launch control, which is something you shoudlnt really do with a cat installed. So sadly I can't comment on their quality, and whether or not it would have coped fine with normal/hard use.. I think i would be tempted to buy a decent one if doing it again personally though as we still struggled a bit to get it hot enough for MOT (a problem you'll always have with a sports cat though to be fair)
Cheers for the info stu
Ta s:D :D s:D
I use those nuts and since then I forgot that there is some nuts...
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u449/Misa_Milosavljevic/DSC_0057_zpsa8gh1out.jpg) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Misa_Milosavljevic/media/DSC_0057_zpsa8gh1out.jpg.html)
(http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u449/Misa_Milosavljevic/DSC_0060_zpstqlkse7k.jpg) (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Misa_Milosavljevic/media/DSC_0060_zpstqlkse7k.jpg.html)
Few minor tweeks since, still working on my big brake kit but slow progress as #lazy, and its only really the FAST circuits the std brakes can't cope with, road and small track she is fine, but nothing too exciting until the last few days.. The purchase and install of traction control by racelogic s:D :D s:D
After a few too many "iffy" moments in the wet where the back went out fast, unexpected, and I felt I caught it more luck than skill I realised she's just a bit too aggressive for road use and either don't use it or tame it.. This I figured would also equate to a boring session on track in the wet on a circuit that doesn't have enough straights to go full pelt.
So Traction control was needed, I looked at options and by far the "best" seemed to be racelogic, but not produced anymore I had to wait for a second hand unit to come up.
So I took a horrible mess of wires from my Emanage
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/mess.jpg)
Added some wires
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/more%20wires.jpg)
And ended up with even bigger mess.. yay....
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/38079758/bigger%20mess.jpg)
Its quite a funky unit, with PC software to calibrate, basically takes a wheelspeed from each ABS unit, RPM from the ECU, (power and earth) then you cut each injector wire and the unit sits between the gap so it can decide if the injector should fire or not.
Quite a quick setup, just factory reset the device, then selected which wheel was which by spinning up one wheel at a time with the car jacked up, entered the ABS teeth configuration and tyre sizes and tested the RPM signal.
you can setup how much slip you want in wet and dry conditions.. allow more slip in a straight line than cornering for quicker starts, setup launch control for full-boost launches..
Only been out and tested it once, but its a different animal, even in first gear I was able to approach a 90degree bend, go full throttle and just steer round the corner, in the past i'd have been pointing backwards before you could even blink... lift-off is also safe, so mid corner you can lift and it doesn't snap(because its not slipping much in the first place)..
I went from a car I often pushed harder than it could deal with, to a car that can deal with more than i'm happy to push.. very happy s:D :D s:D s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Wish I had this sort of mechanical knowledge, would love to carry out this sort of extensive work one day on a project of my own!
Quote from: "MR2_Josh"Wish I had this sort of mechanical knowledge, would love to carry out this sort of extensive work one day on a project of my own!
Everything I know is self taught from day one. Trial, error, listening to the right people, asking the right questions and reading the right articles s:) :) s:) also getting it wrong a lot haha.. I started about a month after getting my licence by going to a banger racing meet and thinking I like that, so I bought a cheap car and went and did it the following month s:) :) s:) just get stuck in and you soon pick things up.. don't be afraid of breaking things, just gives you more opportunity to fix stuff and learn even more than you were expecting s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:
Just randomly found this thread. Do you want it moving into Reader's Rides?
Sure didn't know we had one. I guess we didn't when I started this s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "stupink"Sure didn't know we had one. I guess we didn't when I started this s:) :) s:)
It's relatively new s:) :) s:) Moved for you.
It's an interesting build so it definitely needs an easily-referencable place
Thanks for this topic. Cool and very nice build. Anyway dude i saw you re using an emanage. Would the blue work too? How did you force open loop?
Hi. I setup a referenced fuel pressure regulator. So the fueling sorts itself that way, I've never really looked at how the fuel trims ended up after I stopped tuning. But I can only assume they're not fast enough to keep up as it fuels well s:) :) s:)
Just fitted front camber bolts, and also supplied from GT4-Play,
ACT 6puk sprung with extreme pressure plate,
Full polyurethane bush kit,
Roll centre correction balljoints..
And that's the car done s:) :) s:) All finished!! for now! final last words perhaps..
Final spec, all work done in my garage with my trusty Halfords toolkit s:) :) s:)
2001 pre facelift
16" prorace 1.2 front and rear , 205/45/16 225/45/16 AD08R
Yellowstuff pads+OEM discs
Hel brakelines+race fluid.
KYB shockers, -40mm springs
Full poly bush kit.
Roll centre correction balljoints
Front camber bolts (set to 2degrees)
Front and middle under-braces
GT28r turbo on custom manifold running wastegate pressure ~12psi ish give or take.
2.5" straight through exhaust (twin 12" boxes)
Poly engine mounts.
Ally baffled sump
large Chargecooler running a fiat rad up front.
Vauxhall VXR injectors, Webber fuel pressure regulator, fuel return system and one way valve, Sytec 255ltr fuel pump.
AEM failsafe wideband/boost
Emanage ultimate W/MAP sensor
Racelogic traction control (usually setup running 10% slip)
s:) :) s:)
Hey Stu - how do you find the difference in handling with the new polybushes? I also noticed that you've not added any bracing?
The poly bushes in mine had gone soft (they looked okay, they just were soft. or perhaps they came out the factory like that..). so the difference is phenomenal, I also did the roll centre corrector balljoints at the same time, so its a bit hard to say what change of characteristics was due to which mod.. but without a doubt very very good money spent.. I have a "safe offroad test corner" ahem.. and 40-45mph carried speed turned into 45-50... and it turned at the same time from scary to fun... back end going out from skippy and hoppy to smooth and controllable.. any doubt.. do it.. unless it will bankrupt you.
The bracing is minimal yeah, I have already got some though, I have a mid plate, and front lower brace.. I'm not sure how much faith I have in the belief that top mounts are beneficial as rear already has one, and front top mounts are soooo close to the bulkhead... but maybe if I trip over one someday outside my garage door I may fit it and try it.. because why not..
hang on... you're saying that you already HAD poly bushes but they were defective?
I got the full polybush kit installed (no idea if this includes the roll center corrector ball joints) and I completely agree with you regarding the "scary to fun" transition. My rears don't spin anymore when pulling away and the grip is just great frankly.
I've got the Matt brace and the UR front strut. I can honestly say that I had a night and day experience with the front strut one... turning in is so much tighter, and the general handling over bumps massively improved.
I think there are few of these braces kicking about on eBay (AndyN20) and I reckon you get one for about £50. I'd recommend it.
Front definitely does something. Almost as noticeable as Matts brace.
Rear is an utter waste of metal
Quote from: "shnazzle"Front definitely does something. Almost as noticeable as Matts brace.
TRUE
Quote from: "shnazzle"Rear is an utter waste of metal
UNTRUE ish
Quote from: "jvanzyl"hang on... you're saying that you already HAD poly bushes but they were defective?
I got the full polybush kit installed (no idea if this includes the roll center corrector ball joints) and I completely agree with you regarding the "scary to fun" transition. My rears don't spin anymore when pulling away and the grip is just great frankly.
I've got the Matt brace and the your front strut. I can honestly say that I had a night and day experience with the front strut one... turning in is so much tighter, and the general handling over bumps massively improved.
I think there are few of these braces kicking about on eBay (AndyN20) and I reckon you get one for about £50. I'd recommend it.
Sorry I typed it on my lunch break too quickly, I just meant the oem rubber not polyeurethane. so it was oem 10yr old to new poly... and the ball joints aren't part of any bush kit so you'd not have that, its only relevant if you're lowered... when you lower a car you mess up the control arm angles so the car flops around like a fish out of water even on firm springs.. these correct the angles back to nearer stock. stops a lot of body roll..
Hey Stu,
Just read through your whole thread, some very good work here, you seem very much like me, do it yourself and experiment with things lol! i really like the liquid poly idea, how are the engine mounts fairing up?
They're spot on. I upgraded to some 80sure. Bit noisy but definitely Less movement, and I'm keen to stop engine rock much as possible as it leads to manifolds cracking. Definitely recommend doing them.
Quote from: "stupink"They're spot on. I upgraded to some 80sure. Bit noisy but definitely Less movement, and I'm keen to stop engine rock much as possible as it leads to manifolds cracking. Definitely recommend doing them.
So the higher the number the harder it sets?
I am thinking about doing my 200sx subframe bushes s:) :) s:) was going to inject them with pu sealant lol!
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "stupink"They're spot on. I upgraded to some 80sure. Bit noisy but definitely Less movement, and I'm keen to stop engine rock much as possible as it leads to manifolds cracking. Definitely recommend doing them.
So the higher the number the harder it sets?
I am thinking about doing my 200sx subframe bushes s:) :) s:) was going to inject them with pu sealant lol!
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
yeah higher harder, most silkaflex type "tube of silicone" kinda ones are around 40-50 at most.(they also take forever to cure fully as the outside cures and then stops air getting inside more than around 1cm).. most polybushes are around 60-70 race type are 80-90..
not sure how well it would work for suspension bushes, as air gaps are usually minimal, so the rubber does most the work.. so would depend on the design.. i'd say the sort of thing i'd buy prefab bushes of solid polyurethane for.. but as above I did.. so I don't need to say that :p
Quote from: "stupink"Quote from: "CrazySX"Quote from: "stupink"They're spot on. I upgraded to some 80sure. Bit noisy but definitely Less movement, and I'm keen to stop engine rock much as possible as it leads to manifolds cracking. Definitely recommend doing them.
So the higher the number the harder it sets?
I am thinking about doing my 200sx subframe bushes s:) :) s:) was going to inject them with pu sealant lol!
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
yeah higher harder, most silkaflex type "tube of silicone" kinda ones are around 40-50 at most.(they also take forever to cure fully as the outside cures and then stops air getting inside more than around 1cm).. most polybushes are around 60-70 race type are 80-90..
not sure how well it would work for suspension bushes, as air gaps are usually minimal, so the rubber does most the work.. so would depend on the design.. i'd say the sort of thing i'd buy prefab bushes of solid polyurethane for.. but as above I did.. so I don't need to say that :p
Thanks for the info. Handy. I already have bushes and another subframe but was thinking to do this as an interim solution as I had the car 4 wheel aligned not that long ago and I wanted to do a full refurb on the replacement subframe which won't be happening this year now. Might try it on the existing subframe in situ with the 60a stuff and see how it fairs. If it's no good then I will be replacing it all next year anyway s;) ;) s;)
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk