Hi there, I'm due to change the Clutch in the next couple of weeks on the 2. Anybody who has done this advise of another jobs to do while I'm in that deep?
MT90 will be going in the box but anything else?
Cheers Andy.
Check your crossmember for rust. Clean up any otherwise inaccessible areas. Check all bushings for wear.
Also a dab of copperslip on the clutch fork pivot. l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=35920#p429392 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=35920#p429392) l
Change the clutch fluid, then as you'll have a bleeder, do the brake fluid at the same time?
Cheers for the link mxcum167, fingers crossed what I can see upto now of the crossmember looks positive. This time next year hopefully the V6 will go in so the Crossmember will be uprated then also.
Cheers Jiff I plan to change disc's and pads same day. (Great minds)
I assume you're doing the pressure plate, throw out bearing too?
Clean / Grease the pivot point as that will make a huge difference to the 'weight' of the clutch.
Quote from: "Wholedamnthing"Hi there, I'm due to change the Clutch in the next couple of weeks on the 2.
All I am gonna say is... good luck... you'll need it! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
(Just done mine today!!)
Hi Stu, did you follow the guide off Spyderchat? How long did it take you?
(how much went in the swear box...lol)
Mostly followed the stuff on spyderchat. Differences being that we left the clutch hydraulics unopened and didn't need to cut and brackets down. I would say that you really need 2 people on it. Moving the gearbox on your own and lining it would be very difficult, as Nige knows only too well.
The likely first sticking point will be the hub nut. Mine was a pita, even broke a breaker bar trying to shift it. Just need really careful not to damage the threads on the end of the driveshaft.
In total we had about an hour on Friday night then 10 hours yesterday. Clutch out to rebuilt car was about 3 hours. The rest of the time was undoing stubborn fixings.
Lightweight flywheel has some advantages while you are in there.
Quote from: "ChrisGB"Lightweight flywheel has some advantages while you are in there.
Have to agree
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but going to get someone to change my clutch and I'm after some advice / information.
They've quoted me £180 providing I supply the clutch. They said they could do the flywheel while they're there (obviously). My car's done around 125k miles, (pretty sure the flywheel hasn't been changed) and now it's become my track toy I'm telling myself it's a good idea to get a lightweight flywheel while the clutch is getting changed.
Just going to get a standard one for £50-60, found a lightened flywheel for £204. What I'd like to know is if I also have to buy the ARP flywheel bolts I see advertised too!? Is this mandatory or can you reuse the bolts in the OE flywheel?