As above what's the most boost anyone has safely run on a standard tte turbo and stock engine ?
My SP hits 11psi sometimes.
Is that on stock engine ?
Yep apart from injectors
On our tte turbo you wouldn't want to run any more boost as the limiting factor would be the fueling as the standard injectors are pretty much maxed. I remember an old thread where someone added a boost controller to the standard set up and ran 10/12 psi but sure how successful that was.
keep meaning to add a boost gauge to mine to see that it's running.
As Scott said 10/11 psi prob max for stock internals but a good quality map would be the key.
Well I fitted the next size up of spring in the actuator after the mot today and the boost is holding around 9 but spiking occasionally to 12/13 psi, don't want to do any damage now it's running ok
13 would worry me.
Is it middle of the rev range?
Mine tails off at the higher rpm.
Quote from: "wotugonado"Well I fitted the next size up of spring in the actuator after the mot today and the boost is holding around 9 but spiking occasionally to 12/13 psi, don't want to do any damage now it's running ok
Does it feel much quicker?
Yeah it worried me s:shock: :shock: s:shock: hence the question.
Hard to say regards the faster question I haven't driven it for about 5 weeks and everything feels fast compared to the work van. It pulled harder through all the gears compared to what i remembered but when it spiked id back off.
Turn it up to the max and hang on!
Until it goes pop.
Quote from: "wotugonado"As above what's the most boost anyone has safely run on a standard tte turbo and stock engine ?
Totally depends on turbo spec.
This is an expansive question.
Quote from: "Alex Knight"Quote from: "wotugonado"As above what's the most boost anyone has safely run on a standard tte turbo and stock engine ?
Totally depends on turbo spec.
.
+1 cfm of the turbo is the big aspect to look at.
However as a rule of 10psi on a gt28 with intercooler and 440cc injectors or about 6psi without intercooler and injectors.
On a gt25 10psi is the norm and don't need increased fuelling.
As for your situation get yourself an afr gauge, as long as your not going to lean when the boost spikes to 12 then it will be fine.
Would it be easiest to wire both O2 sensors into one and use the other bung for a wideband? Or weld a new bung into the exhaust pre-cat?
As for boost gauge, how have you plumbed it in? Helen definitely wants one but where's the cleanest part to measure? I would T off the PCV
Still get a decent amount of boost cut, so keen on knowing what kind of pressure it's seeing
Matt performance plumbed mine in, there's a line under the passenger rear compartment bin by the ECU and he just tee'd off that. I've looked at an AFR and reckon welding a bung in is the best, they do a kit which doesn't need welding its strapped around the hole in the pipe and must cure on once it gets hot. Also you will need the kit with the longer gauge wires because our engines are in the right place s8) 8) s8)
I think the point here is that it is over what toyota specified for the TTE turbo.
Something is not right.
Just a thought, could the AFR go in the post cat sensor bung as mines has the resistor fix it's obsolete. Or is that to far away for a clean read ?
Quote from: "1979scotte"I think the point here is that it is over what toyota specified for the TTE turbo.
Something is not right.
It's the new spring it's a higher psi rating, but as the lower spring wasn't getting any where near the stated boost levels I thought I d give it a try and it's better until it spikes.
Quote from: "wotugonado"Just a thought, could the AFR go in the post cat sensor bung as mines has the resistor fix it's obsolete. Or is that to far away for a clean read ?
Cat would foul the readings by changing o2 values
There's that idea done and dusted then s:) :) s:)
How much to low was the old spring?
Quote from: "rbuckingham"How much to low was the old spring?
It was the green spring the rating was ideal new but lately was registering sometimes 2 or 3 psi minimum but was averaging around 5
Quote from: "wotugonado"Quote from: "1979scotte"I think the point here is that it is over what toyota specified for the TTE turbo.
Something is not right.
It's the new spring it's a higher psi rating, but as the lower spring wasn't getting any where near the stated boost levels I thought I d give it a try and it's better until it spikes.
What about adjusting the arm?
Was the previous spring quite old?
Theyre less than £15 each which is probably a rip off.
Same idea Scott. Shorten the arm slightly it will increase the opening psi by a couple.
Quote from: "1979scotte"What about adjusting the arm?
Was the previous spring quite old?
Theyre less than £15 each which is probably a rip off.
I could try to slacken the arm up a little.
No spring was supplied with the actuator so 12 months old. I've got the 2 lowest rated springs, next one is 15 + psi so no good for me.
Put the old spring back in and adjust the arm so it holds the right boost.
If you do something wrong with the 15psi spring in place you could grenade your engine.
I haven't got the 15 psi spring, I've got the 2 lowest rated springs green and yellow, I will try to slacken the arm on the actuator while the yellow spring is in to try an drop a few psi, I also have a little idea which may or may not work, shall report back if it's a success
Quote from: "wotugonado"I haven't got the 15 psi spring, I've got the 2 lowest rated springs green and yellow, I will try to slacken the arm on the actuator while the yellow spring is in to try an drop a few psi, I also have a little idea which may or may not work, shall report back if it's a success
The green would be my choice max 10 psi
You could try the lower strength spring and a manual boost control valve. The actuator won't see any boost until the valve opens, which can help maintain boost too, but at the right level.
Quote from: "1979scotte"The green would be my choice max 10 psi
That's the problem it's looks good on paper but is opening at between 2 and 5 psi hence why I tried the yellow.
Quote from: "wotugonado"Quote from: "1979scotte"The green would be my choice max 10 psi
That's the problem it's looks good on paper but is opening at between 2 and 5 psi hence why I tried the yellow.
Yes but if you adjust the arm i would hope it would work correctly.
I would try it and see.
Quote from: "loadswine"You could try the lower strength spring and a manual boost control valve. The actuator won't see any boost until the valve opens, which can help maintain boost too, but at the right level.
Well what Im going to try is put a standard compression spring the same length inside the green spring and fit that back into the actuator, hopefully with a little trial and error I can strengthen the green springs resistance to get it back to around 7 psi.
Try the green spring, pull the actuator out a bit holding the wastegate shut and shorten the actuator bar on the thread. My forge has a 5psi in and it bob on everytime so something is not right if it a 7psi spring.
Or fit a boost controller in and that will put it dead on 7 with the green spring.
Quote from: "rbuckingham"Try the green spring, pull the actuator out a bit holding the wastegate shut and shorten the actuator bar on the thread. My forge has a 5psi in and it bob on everytime so something is not right if it a 7psi spring.
Or fit a boost controller in and that will put it dead on 7 with the green spring.
I think Rich and i are on the same page here.
This is the proper way to do it.
If it works then all is good if not you can try the bodge but something isnt right.
I did set the arm up on the actuator so its about 10mm short and I really have to pull it out to attach to the waste gate, I shall give it another whirl, it's not going to cost me anything to try
So update I left the yellow spring in(because I was too lazy to strip it out again and just wanted to enjoy driving it for a bit) i did however wind the arm out, and it lowered the boost to a more respectable level peaking around 9 to 10 psi. It still spiked to 11 on occasion so I will use the bank holiday to refit the green spring, until I can plumb in an afr gauge to keep an eye on it.
What are people's opinions on a safe afr reading on a turbo 1zzfe. I know that on previous cars I've had, that were boosted from factory you want to see 11 ish on a wide band but that's running at least a bar. I would assume the lower boost on an engine with high compression internals you don't need to be as rich on boost, so what's acceptably safe? 12? 12.5?
high compression makes it more likely to detonate, so you have to run rich as cooling.. so I go 11's as per a high boost turbo.. but then I run quite a few psi. i'd personally be going 11-11.5 max
I mean cos your running relatively low boost as its a high comp engine. That rich on good octane fuel? Mind you, at 293hp and stock internals your hardly on the side of caution, So you must be doing it right!
Don't get me wrong, I've ran it leaner, up nearer to the low 12's and it didn't destruct itself instantly.. (during mapping), but there was not really any significant power benefit, and seeing as you only use a bit more fuel on full throttle and probably arnt on full throttle that much I think its safer to have some good fuel-cooling. Sadly I don't have exhaust gas temperature... ( a deliberate thing so I don't worry all the time like I used to) that would have shown a good difference between 11 and 12 and shown how the engine really responds.
With the emanage I was at 10psi. Now with Powerfc I run 7psi.
AFR I'm on about 12.2-12.7 from what I see daily on my old wideband. Not sure how much it's out though.
Here is a question though, where should the best AFR reading be taken when tuning? Out of one of the two exhuast pipes like most tuners, or remove one of the existing lambda probes and use it's location, but which one? There are two just in my manifold, one in my downpipe and one before it splits into the two tailpipes.