MR2 Roadster Owners Club

How To: Clutch Change

This guide is written keeping in mind one person doing the job. Certain parts may be easier/less hassle if you have a helper.

PlusGas everything well in advance multiple times. Especially the 3 amigos on the exhaust and all of the nearside suspension arm bolts.

Use plastic bags to label and sort bolts so you don't lose them. Or masking tape. Or whatever your method is. Just don't be that guy/gal looking for an hour for that one bolt or nut.

Warning - You CAN do expensive harm to your car if not done correctly. If you are not confident or have no previous experience in this kind of work, leave it to a pro. Clutch work will usually set you back about GBP 250 in labour excluding parts. For something done probably once in the life of your car, it's not a big amount

Materials

• New clutch (For stock cars; LUK and Exedy are good very stock-like and around GBP 60)
• Silicon lubricant
• New drive shaft seals (Nearside: 90311-35064, Offside: 90311-35065). Optional but best replaced. Approx 20 quid for both
• Gearbox oil (2L for 6-speed LSD, 1.8L for 5-speed with LSD, 1.9L for 5-speed without LSD) (rec. 3 bottles of Redline MT90 75w-90)
• AL1100 anti-seize paste or the like

Tools

• Socket set (10,12,14,17,19,24), hex sockets to avoid rounding
• Socket extensions and universal joint
• Spanners (17,19)
• Breaker bar
• Plastic mallet or just a big hammer
• 30cm-ish wood/plastic dowel (to knock out drive shaft)
• Screwdrivers for prying and clip removal
• Trolley jack
• Axle stands
• Clutch alignment tool
• Cargo straps or chain
• Engine support beam (eBay for GBP 35-40).
• Working lights
• 1.5m garden hose
• Funnel to fit garden hose
• Needle-nose pliers
• An electric or air impact gun really helps if you can buy/borrow one. There are a lot of pesky bolts on the suspension and it can make life easier

Preparation

• Remove two plastic covers from underneath
• Soak all suspension bolts on the nearside and the 14mm 3 amigos in PlusGas a few times (couple days in a row in advance)
• Drain the gearbox oil with the 24mm socket

Step 1 - Remove engine lid and strut cross bars

• Undo clips holding the 3rd brake light wiring
• Release the clip holding the felt down on the lower left where the light cable ends and undo the plug for the wiring
• Undo the rear 12mm bolts (closest to window)
• Go to one side with a towel and put it within reach. Undo the other 12mm bolt and place the towel under the bracket so that it doesn't scratch the car
• Go to the other side and undo the last bolt and lift the engine lid away
• Undo the 4 14mm bolts (two on the bulkhead and one on each strut tower) to remove the cross bars.

Step 2 - Remove intake

• Unclip the MAF from the tube and move aside
• Undo circlip fastening screw on pipe from airbox to throttle body pipe
• Unclip airbox cover and remove it, and the filter inside
• Undo the two 12mm bolts on the bottom of the intake box and remove the box
• Undo the circlip fastening screw on the throttle body to release the throttle body pipe. Then remove the pipe

Step 3 - Remove battery and tray

• Undo 10mm negative cable bolt and push cable aside, then undo positive cable.
• Undo the mounting bracket nut with a 10mm wrench or deep socket and lift bracket off
• Lift battery out and lift out the little plastic white tray
• Undo the 3 12mm bolts holding down the battery tray. The one nearest to the rear light requires a long socket extension

Step 4 - Free gear link cables and wiring bolts

• remove the pins from the top of each gear link bush with pliers and remove cables from their pins. If you have replaced these with bearings, watch out for them dropping out
• Put a cable tie or something around one of the gear link cables so you know which one is which when putting it back. We put a cable tie on the shorter (left) one.
• Using a small screwdriver, take time to push out the 4 little pegs on each clip that stop it from being pulled up. Do this right, and they'll come out no problem. Pull on the gear link cable to undo them. A hook helps with access.
  [attachment=2:2pkyi6m7] ia2 gearclip_mwr.PNG ia2 [/attachment:2pkyi6m7] - Courtesy of MonkeyWrenchRacing
• Undo the 12mm transmission earth bolt. It's an obvious bolt that sits on the transmission with a black wire coming from the left
• You'll see a small grey plug there,the reversing switch. Unplug that.
• A little further up and right is the 12mm bolt to hold the thick hard wire harness on the transmission. Undo that.
• A little up from that there are two 12mm bolts that holds the gear link cable bracket onto the transmission. Undo that as well.

Step 5 - Undo topside transmission bolts

• Undo the two 17mm bolts near the gear link cables that hold the transmission to the engine. These are hard to reach. You'll have to get creative with universal joints and extensions. May the force be with you. Possibly the most fiddly bolts of the entire process.
• Undo the two 14mm bolts to the left of the manifold, on the opposite side of the bolts in the previous step. The heads facing offside and deeper down than those in the previous step.

Step 6 - Brace up the engine and transmission

• Using the engine support beam or any other kind of support (engine lift, rafter on your ceiling, scaffolding, a World's Strongest Man competitor) and use the eye on the front left of the engine to support the weight of the engine on a chain or strong strap (100kg +). Just that one front eyelet will do for these purposes as the rest of the weight is still on the right engine mount.
• A nylon strap would work best for the transmission so that it doesn't slip. Pass the strap around the thinner end of the bell housing and up and support on the beam.
• * These two chains/straps are going to stop the engine from thundering down onto you, as it will be suspended only by the right engine mount in a few steps. Mucho importanto.

Step 7 - Undo left engine mount

• Undo the 17mm center bolt on the mount
• Remove the bracket from the transmission (3 14mm bolts facing down)
• * you can leave the mount part attached to the body of the car. Saves undoing some bolts.

Step 8 - Lift car and remove nearside wheel

• Undo the nearside (passenger side) rear wheel nuts.
• Put the rear of the car high up on axle stands. Enough clearance is needed to be able to roll out the transmission. Remove nearside rear wheel.
• * Make sure the car is thoroughly supported on appropriate axle stands. You'll be under it. If you don't trust your kit...don't do it. It's not a good or honorable way to go.

Step 9 -  Undo all nearside suspension arms at the crossmember end

• * These bolts may give you the most resistance of them all. I hope you've been PlusGassing them in advance!
• Put a mark on the toe bolt plate on the rearmost trailing arm (Toyota calls them camber bolts) and the crossmember so that you know where to put it back. Use a think marker/pen to get it as close as possible. If not, your alignment will likely be well off when you put it back together.
• Undo rear trailing arm bolt on the crossmember by holding a 19mm wrench on the bolt and 17mm socket with breaker bar on the nut.
• On the front trailing arm and strut arm (the two arms closest to the FRONT of the car) you need to turn the bolts. NOT the nuts. You can try to turn the nuts until you're blue in the face. They're designed not to budge.

Step 10 -  Remove nearside drive shaft

• With all of the suspension arms hanging down, you should be able to push on the hub of the wheel and make the whole assembly move outwards.
• To undo the drive-shaft; grab a 30cm-ish soft metal/plastic/wood dowel and hold it against one of the ridges on the green drive shaft bearing housing. You'll notice it has these 0.5cm deep ridges around it edge. That's to tap it out and in.
  Do NOT try to pry it off by the edge of the inside ring as depicted below. You will damage the lip and potentially cause a leak
  (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170203/3cfdccdc5b2e51f67bc38a8f240d2357.jpg)
• Hold the dowel against an offside ridge and whack it with a hammer until it pops out. It may need convincing but ultimately should just pop out.
• When it is loose, grab the green bearing housing of the shaft and push it outward CAREFULLY so that it goes out straight and does not touch the oil seals. You want to see it move out exactly straight.
• Cable-tie the driveshaft out of the way of the transmission dropping. Swing it towards the nearside front of the car.

Step 11 -  Undo starter motor

• Undo plug on starter motor
• Remove the 12mm bolt facing offside
• Remove the 12mm bolt facing nearside a bit further up and more hidden towards the rear of the car on the other side

• * You do not need to remove the starter motor. Just undo the bolts so that it's not bolted to the transmission.
  
  Step 12 -  Undo clutch slave cylinder and front middle engine mount
  
  
  
  • Undo two 12mm bolts on clutch slave cylinder
  • Remove the center bolt on the front middle engine mount (closest to the front of the car)
  • Remove the two bolts on the inside of the engine mount and remove the assembly including the clutch slave cylinder. Cable-tie it somewhere safe.
  • remove the rest of the engine mount from the car
  
  Step 13 -  Remove rear mid engine mount
  
  
  
  • Undo the 17mm center bolt
  • Undo all the other 14mm bolts. Remove the assembly
  • * The transmission and engine are now supported fully by your bracing and the right engine mount
  
  Step 14 - Remove the remaining transmission bolts
  
  
  
  • Remove the two 14mm bolts under the oil pan
  • Remove the two 14mm bolts vertically towards the rear of the car.
  
  Step 15 -  Remove transmission
  
  
  
  • You'll need to drop the engine so that it tips to the nearside. Not massively, just 15deg or so. This is why you disconnected the 3-amigos, so prevent your exhaust flexis from..well..flexing. With the engine tipped towards nearside, held up by the straps, you can pull the transmission off. Otherwise you'll hit the car frame and other bits. You can't get it off with the engine parallel to the floor.
  • Place another strap around the thicker part of the bell housing. Imagine that the bell housing needs to be suspended without tipping. So you already have one strap around the thinner part, but if you were to disconnect, it would tip towards the engine. Stop that from happening with another strap so that you can essentially cradle the transmission.
  • Go under the car and carefully pull the transmission off the engine. Same as with the driveshaft, do this STRAIGHT so as to not to damage the oil seal. If you can tell the transmission is dropping, adjust the straps to make it straight.
  • Once it's off the shafts. Place a trolly jack with a piece of wood, or an actual tranny jack would be best, under the transmission housing, so that it carries some of the weight and is not swinging around. Make sure it's free to come down and won't hit anything on the way down.
  • Bit by bit, lower the straps and the jack, checking that it's clear to come down and nothing is left attached.
  
  Step 16 - Replace release bearing
  
  
  
  • Undo the release bearing by removing the clip and sliding it off the spline.
  • Clean up the spline and bell housing of any debris. And airline would be great.
  • Lift the fork towards you and you'll find the pivot point. Clean that up and apply a fresh glob of silicon grease on it. Replace the fork onto it.
  • Apply a thin but covering layer of silicon grease on the spline and a small amount on where the release bearing sits
  • Place the new release bearing and clip into place behind the fork
  
  Step 17 - Replace friction plate and clutch case
  
  
  
  • Mark the top of the existing clutch housing with a pen or scratch
  • Remove the 6 bolts holding the cover onto the engine and remove the cover with the old friction plate.
  • Clean out the housing with airline or lint-free cloth and clean the spline.
  • Apply silicon to the spline
  • Use a clutch alignment tool with the correct adapters to fit the hole on the engine side.
  • Put the new friction plate on it, with the alignment tool through the center so that you can hold it centered while you put the cover on
  • Look at the old cover plate and line the new one up to the mark you made, so you know which side is up.  There's only one way it can go on, but it stops faffing about.
  • Place the cover on and hold it in place firmly with one hand. You can let go of the alignment tool but leave it in there.
  • Place the 6 bolts in and tighten them up. You can now remove the alignment tool and you should see a clean straight line through the middle, perfectly centered.
  • Torque up the bolts
  
  Step 18 (optional) - Replace oil seals
  
  
  
  • The seals do perish over time so replacing is a good idea regardless. Remove the old seals. This can be a bit of a chore as they can be seized in a bit. You can use a big thick screwdriver and a wrench. Place the wrench across the bottom of the seal hole to act as a leverage point. Then place the screwdriver through the hole, onto the lip, and leverage it out in a circle.  Plumbing pliers work too.
  • Coat the new seal in gearbox oil and place it into the hole. If you have a hard circular object that's the same size as the hard part of the seal, you can knock it in using that and a hammer. If not, use a soft dowel or socket extension and a hammer to gently knock it in by tapping in a circle (12-oclock, 3, 6, 9, etc etc) until it sits flush.
  • DO NOT SLIP AND HIT THE RUBBER. Try not to place the dowel on the edge of the hard lip. But cover as much of it as possible to prevent any bending.
  [attachment=0:2pkyi6m7] ia0 offsideseal.jpg ia0 [/attachment:2pkyi6m7][attachment=1:2pkyi6m7] ia1 nearsideseal.jpg ia1 [/attachment:2pkyi6m7]
  
  Step 19 - Refit transmission
  This is the reverse of taking it off. Take extra care when putting the transmission back on the input spline from the engine. Center it, then push it on.
  
  Step 20 - Insert drive-shaft
  
  
  
  • If you haven't replaced the seal, make sure the little metal spring clip (about 1.5inches in diameter, thin, metal springy thing) is not floating about. Look down the hole. If it is, fish it out and try to place it back on the inside of the seal. It's easier to just get a new seal....
  • Turn the circlip at the end of the spline so that the gap is facing downward
  • Using some controlled force and push the shaft back towards the outside of the car and align it with the hole perfectly, then ease it in.
  • Tap it in the same way as you tapped it out but inverse. Slowly and gently until you feel/hear it hit the end.
  
  Step 21 - Refill gearbox oil
  
  
  
  • Pass the hose through the engine bay down and attach a funnel to the top side and brace it between something
  • Go under the car and remove the filler hole (left hex key one if 6-speed, right socket one if 5, THE PICTURE BELOW IS WRONG) and poke the other end of the hose through.
    (http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb408/Greg_Syn_Nouveau/C63C64%20Gearbox%20filling_zpsuff2uugm.jpg)
  • Fill'r up. Remove the hose from the hole. If it dribbles out slowly, it's right. About 1.8 for the 5-speed and 2.1 for the 6-speed.  If it comes out thick and fast (it won't because likely it'll just have backed up in the hose and you'll have noticed you've overfilled), let some out and catch it for next time. If no dribble, keep filling a bit.Plug'r up and enjoy.
  
  Putting it back - thoughts and tips
  
  
  
  • Don't forget to make sure all suspension bolts are tightened with all 4 wheels on the ground
  • When putting the 3 amigos back, make sure the two ring gaskets are still seated correctly. If they are severely perished, consider replacing them. They are technically single-shot (officially) so the seal won't ever be as good re-fitted as it was when new. But for stock systems re-using is fine 90% of the time. Just make sure they're seated correctly.

While having replaced clutches I have never done that on a 2, but feel I could having read this.
With the pictures to support the text it looks to be a very comprehensive " How to"
Comment re step 17 / 9 I suggest reference to "tightening opposite bolts " ( as for cylinder head)
/ 10 specification of torque value here( and elsewhere as required) would make this a one stop point of reference.
Good job.

Had a quick read ... cable tie around one of the selector cables a must
borrow if possible an impact gun?
you do not have to remove starter motor
The rear toe in arm scratch some marks as a ref. for alighnment when refitting and maybe a simple how to correct your steering if out afterwards
6 speed is 2lts and 5 speed 1.8lts . 6 speed box has two fillers . use the higher plug to fill box
3 amigos carefully check the crush gaskets are in position when re-assembling

Very good points. Will add. Knew I had forgotten a fair bit

Will add torque references.

Pics to be sourced. I might steal the ones from the Spyderchat how to where applicable. Will give credit of course.

step 17 line 6 friction material is on both sides of the friction plate  ... when removing note its orientation . but it should only fit one way without silly force

we removed engine bay x member but other have used this to support the engine with straps

check this write up  m http://www.automotivating.com/Spyder/supercharger.html (http://www.automotivating.com/Spyder/supercharger.html) m

This is great and should be a big help to me tomorrow.

A few questions:
1. Dowels to tap out the driveshaft, do you mean the round wooden type thing that B&Q sell? They don't appear to have 30cm though....

2. I only have one engine hoist so can't use a strap to hold the engine and a second on the gearbox, best workaround? Bit worried about supporting on a jack and messing something up.

3. Clutch alignment - wouldn't you put the alignment tool through from the cover plate side, as then you could remove it again once mating the clutch up to the engine, right? You may be using a different type of alignment tool however, so it might work for what you have and no for the universal one I've bought.

4. Oil seals, there's no mention of any clip on the removal and replacement of the oil seals, is it something which should just be attached as part of a new seal?

Cheers!

1 we used a long metal bar 12" or so of copper with a lump hammer as not to damage driveshaft but aluminium or steel will do as long as you don't overdo it.

2 Tilt engine and gearbox then i would support the engine with ratchets straps attached to the engine bay cross bar stiffener and then use your hoist to lower gearbox

3  yes alignment tool through pressure plate and removal the same. my new ebay universal tool did not work until i ran a tap fully through one of the dowels. best check before ... My set has numbers flywheel end 20mm  (no 7 turned around ) and 20.22 to 21.42 (no 5 ) on clutch plate if that helps

4 no clip in seals ... seals are a push fit  .use a smear of oil when refitting. i used a plastic ring off the end of my large electric impact gun to hammer the nearside seal in.
this may help .. i used a open ended spanner and a screwdriver to pull the old seal out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4j_GFRxkF8

Thanks Mulaz. Unfortunately I don't have any ratchet straps so it's the hoist and jacks for me. Wish me luck....

Re clips, what's this part about then?
Step 20 - Insert drive-shaft
If you haven't replaced the seal, make sure the little metal spring clip (about 1.5inches in diameter, thin, metal springy thing) is not floating about. Look down the hole. If it is, fish it out and try to place it back on the inside of the seal. It's easier to just get a new seal....

Oh and one more thing, AL1100 paste is mentioned in the list at the start but nowhere else? Where is this used and will copper slip do the same job as it seems hard to find other than online?

Quote from: "bluesmoke"Thanks Mulaz. Unfortunately I don't have any ratchet straps so it's the hoist and jacks for me. Wish me luck....

Re clips, what's this part about then?
Step 20 - Insert drive-shaft
If you haven't replaced the seal, make sure the little metal spring clip (about 1.5inches in diameter, thin, metal springy thing) is not floating about. Look down the hole. If it is, fish it out and try to place it back on the inside of the seal. It's easier to just get a new seal....

Oh and one more thing, AL1100 paste is mentioned in the list at the start but nowhere else? Where is this used and will copper slip do the same job as it seems hard to find other than online?

This is where that engineering knowledge comes in. AL1100 is an aluminium anti-seize paste. Knowing where to use AL1100, copper grease, silicon grease, etc and where not is not something I'm going to go into for this guide. You don't need the AL1100 at all if you don't want. Only the silicon will do, as described in the text.

There are two clips; I will clarify this as it can be confusing. One clip is around the end of the drive shaft spline. You'll see it when you pull it out. About 2cm diameter with one open end sitting in a groove on the shaft spline. That needs to always be there.
The other "clip" is a thin metal ring. It just looks like a very thin  (1mm) gasket. If you look into the gearbox housing before you put the driveshaft in, you may see it floating about. It needs to NOT be floating about. If you do see it, pull it out so that it's not floating around in your gearbox and destroying it. Then replace the whole seal (which comes with that little ring in the back of it).

If the ring is in good condition, you CAN try to wiggle it back into place in the back of the seal (which you can't see).

You can see it here just under my finger. Little silver ring around the inside of the nearside seal. It's so thin you'd never know it was there. But in both mine and Ian's, it came out of this position. On Ian's it was a bit mangled and popped out. On mine it was still in the gearbox, I could see it when I looked it so I pulled it out with pliers.
As you can see from the pic, it needs to sit inside the back of the seal, invisible to the outside
[attachment=0:8sn868td] ia0 16402194_10158180897785343_1856177004_n.jpg ia0 [/attachment:8sn868td]

All other amendments made to the text. Just need to add torques

That makes sense, thanks. I'm replacing anyway so I'll just check it isn't in there and get it out if it is  s:) :) s:)

You also need planet rock playing in the background for a smoother clutch change Haha... best of luck and never give up!

Doing my best but having a few complications, see my thread  s:( :( s:(

Are you doing this on a 2ZZ? My 1ZZ has a sort of eye on the bottom left corner nearest the rear of the car but nothing in  the middle on the other side of the engine. Absolutely stumped on where to run a strap as a result.

This guide is for 1zz.
My fault on the engine hanger.

Actually, it's a bit of a lie haha. The hole that sticks out on the left is not actually the engine hanger. If you look, there is a bolt hole to the right of it where you would screw in the Toyota engine hanger hook.
But, but overkill to go and buy these. So that eyelet will do for now.

For the rear, I blatantly lied. There is nothing there without attaching that Toyota hook.

So just use that front eyelet. The rest of the weight is carried by the right engine mount and keeps the engine from tilting back to front.

Will amend my text. Apologies

Not a problem. This whole guide will be idiot proof once I've used it   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

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