Hello forum members
Just joined up to share and be a part of the MR2 Roadster community. I have a JDM MR-S that I am transplanting an all electric drivetrain and systems into from a Mitsubishi i-MIEV. Will share my progress here and on the diyelectriccar.com forum. I'll post more details as things progress, sorting a workspace out at home as there isn't enough room in my garage for 2 cars worth and a workshop so will be errecting a canvas shed type cover on the driveway to get the project done.
Hope to have some good conversations and share knowledge and experience about these brilliant little cars.
Cheers
Tyler
That's really interesting! Looking forward to this project
Hello and welcome.
Good attention grabbing first post.
Keep us, well, posted.
Welcome Tyler!
Let me know if that nice rear brace gets on the way of your build! s;-) ;-) s;-)
Welcome along now that's a different take get a Readers Ride going be really great to see how you progress this build
Interesting indeed. I look forward to your updates.
Should make some interesting reading welcome
Ooh very intresting, welcome along
Thank you all. I can't promise to have frequent updates but will keep them coming as I have them.
PS: She will only be an MR2 until the EV conversion is approved by the DVLA then the second phase is to clad her with a Porsche Spyder 550 style body kit. Mine is an MR-S(pyder) after all... But one step at a time.
PPS: I will be adapting a 550 fibreglass kit for the second phase.
Now have to get some work underway. Designed my temporary workshop extension this afternoon and hope to get it up soon. Then I can roll the old girl out the rain and under cover to expose her tasty bits... s:oops: :oops: s:oops: Nobody tell the wife!
No worries about the frequency :-) :-) :-) lots of guys store up a load of work and then dump shed loads of photos....
That's the other thing- YOU MUST HAVE PHOTOS. We need pictures to be entertained.
Quick question on the power train... How many miev's are you going to stick in there? Cos 35KW might not have the blistering performance to go with the looks!
Interesting idea...look forward to see how you handle it cos in my head I can't make it make sense s:D :D s:D
There's one on youtube
m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIAV18WOBgs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIAV18WOBgs) m
> Donor: 2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder (MRS)
> Style: 2 seater mid-engined convertible
> Battery Pack: 72 x 90 Ah Lithium (LiFePO4)
> Nominal Capacity: 230.4 V x 90 Ah = 20736 Wh
> BMS: Blade EV
> Motor: Netgain Warp 9 (series DC)
> Motor Controller: Zilla Z1K
> Transmission: Factory 5 speed
> Fuel gauge: Metric Mind EVision
> Charger: Manzanita Micro PFC-30
Had one of those mad moments and priced it all up and it's gonna cost as much as a high end v6 conversion
Jvanzyl
Yes, the i-MIEV doesn't flaunt great power but that's to do with Japanese Kei car regs. Mitsubishi actually entered a race car using i-MIEV drive train in the Pike's peak hill climb in the states and the drive train was producing 80kw plus boost setting so is capable of alot more. Usually its the batteries that are the concern but these are good spec also. My only concern is that mine have been sitting for a while and may have lost alot of charge. This is one thing I need to check pretty quickly by reconnecting the major electrics and switching her on, possibly even charging the battery on the work bench. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks for the welcome and sensible advice folks, I'll always welcome constructive input.
PS: I've considered seeing if Corolla front hubs will fit the MR2 front suspension geometry and sticking a second drive up front for 4wd performance. One of my fantasy garage cars is an electric AMG SLS!
Well had a hectic few weeks, but a fortnight ago I started investigating a wet carpet, found mould in the interior and stripped everything except the dashboard out. Couldn't remove the soft top entirely whilst the frame is fitted but since learnt that it must be off the car to do. Well I'm inclined to bin the soft top and chuck the frame but I discovered the cross member is integral so I need to cut the roof frame off... Been deciding whether to remove the lot and fab alternative seatbelt mounts.
Anybody got a lead on a cheap hard top please? Just to get the car water tight again. Even a loan for now?
Thanks
Also, given moisture issues, I'd like to get leather sets and door cards. Anybody got any leads please?
Well I got the soft top out after reading that it is one unit and must be removed completely. Well since I'm getting a hard top (soon I hope,car has no roof at all!) I decided I will trim the roof mechanism off and keep the base plates for the seat belt mount points and crossbar as I'm sure it does quite a bit for stiffening the top half of the rear of the chassis.
I'm also planning to fabricate brackets for the roof to mount it semi-permanently since I dont have a soft top anymore. Anybody got advice on how this is done please?
rogue motorsport sell permanent hardtop fixing plates. have them on my track car think they were around £50
Hi Secla
Aware of Rogue pars, was going to replicate the idea. But I got a roof with fitting kit for less than expected so happy with that. Be nice to pop it off for a drive over summer if the weather allows.
You'll be surprised how good the heaters are and what you can drive through with the top down. s;-) ;-) s;-)
Just wear a hat.
I find the top of me head gets cold
Oh, I was nervous of driving all the way to get the hood tomorrow. Don't tempt me StuC! But the car is stripped out so no radio or hands free and a howling exhaust really will wear thin for 3hrs! Looking forward to playing with the car for a bit before I pull her apart for the heart transplant. Equally excited to get her converted and whisp about like a stealth missile!
PS, 75kw seems meek but it means something different in an EV (electric vehicle...). I know from maths and experience. My Golf GTE has 75kw and weights 1650kg without my heft in it and shifts like anything to 40mph, makes 62mph plenty fast enough and would do over 100mph if the limiter allowed (in EV Mode). I expect my MR-S to weigh less than 1200kg when done so 25% less when driven or 30% faster than the golf and no gear change delays. It won't be a Tesla or SLS EV but I can't wait!
Night all, long drive in the morning...
Happy trails :-) :-) :-)
I'm looking forward to this!
Hi folks
Got my roof, long drive down and back, but worth it. I was smiling once I had it on and wasn't even in the car yet! Really like the looks. Cannot post pics as they are too large and I need to do it from my PC.
Need to chop and trim the convertible mechanism to get seatbelt and cross-brace support back.
Will update as I can.
Pics of roof on the car:
[attachment=1:g3b1bgzz] ia1 Black_Hard-top_front_quarter.jpg ia1 [/attachment:g3b1bgzz]
[attachment=0:g3b1bgzz] ia0 Black_Hard-top_rear_quarter.jpg ia0 [/attachment:g3b1bgzz]
I think the black looks really good on the yellow.
Black on yellow works for me.
Couldn't help noticing an unusal exhaust pipe.
Hello all
Well today I set about removing my soft top frame from the cross-bar & Base plates but with the ability to refit it later. Turns out to be quite easy and a bit disappointing that Mr Toyota didn't do it this way before. Note, this may take some time so bare with me...
There are 2 different fixings either side that are mirrored both sides. These are fasteners that had to be assembled in the factory before they were welded, so if you 'unweld' the fixings they can be unfixed to disassemble the frame from the base plates. Simples... See below:
[attachment=0:1l6y1hzg] ia0 Soft-top_removal1.jpg ia0 [/attachment:1l6y1hzg]
[attachment=1:1l6y1hzg] ia1 Soft-top_removal2.jpg ia1 [/attachment:1l6y1hzg]
[attachment=2:1l6y1hzg] ia2 Soft-top_removal3.jpg ia2 [/attachment:1l6y1hzg]
TBC...
Continued, due to 3 attachments per post. More pics:
[attachment=0:3u2rx9io] ia0 Soft-top_removal4.jpg ia0 [/attachment:3u2rx9io]
[attachment=1:3u2rx9io] ia1 Soft-top_removal5.jpg ia1 [/attachment:3u2rx9io]
[attachment=2:3u2rx9io] ia2 Soft-top_removal6.jpg ia2 [/attachment:3u2rx9io]
TBC...
Continued; So the next steps are simple in concept, separate the base metal of the fasteners from their welds. On this lower mount it is easier, the threads poke through and are welded, and the head has an Allen socket to undo it. You can trim the weld back as I did o minimise metal loss or trim/grind it flat to speed the process. I tried to use finesse and Dremel the weld down.
[attachment=1:33t5bc1x] ia1 Soft-top_removal13.jpg ia1 [/attachment:33t5bc1x]
[attachment=2:33t5bc1x] ia2 Soft-top_removal14.jpg ia2 [/attachment:33t5bc1x]
[attachment=0:33t5bc1x] ia0 Soft-top_removal10.jpg ia0 [/attachment:33t5bc1x]
Continued; Next is the larger pivot tube through which the base plate is bolted to the chassis. It is annoyingly welded beneath a plate that is welded on over it but considerately Mr Toyota left a nice access hole for fitting/removing the pivot tube. So the trick is to chain drill along the weld edge on the shoulder of the pin. Plenty meat there just be sure not to drill too deep and right the way through the plate. You should see the split line in the bottom of the drilled hole when you pass through the pivot into the plate. Pics tell a thousand words (I hope):
[attachment=0:18xw0mlt] ia0 Soft-top_removal15.jpg ia0 [/attachment:18xw0mlt]
[attachment=1:18xw0mlt] ia1 Soft-top_removal17.jpg ia1 [/attachment:18xw0mlt]
[attachment=2:18xw0mlt] ia2 Soft-top_removal19.jpg ia2 [/attachment:18xw0mlt]
TBC
Continued; The drilling is tricky, I used a 3mm drill but quality counts so buy a good one, possibly 2 or 3. I broke 2 drills, or rather the drill twice, and re-sharpened it. As soon as it is free the pivot tube breaks loose easily, a tab with a punch or chisel may help. It is ready for reuse (it must be used to mount the base plates and cross-bar without the soft-top mechanism so don't store it yet...):
[attachment=0:2pxklevu] ia0 Soft-top_removal20.jpg ia0 [/attachment:2pxklevu]
[attachment=1:2pxklevu] ia1 Soft-top_removal21.jpg ia1 [/attachment:2pxklevu]
[attachment=2:2pxklevu] ia2 Soft-top_removal22.jpg ia2 [/attachment:2pxklevu]
TBC
Continued; Here is what happens to the drill bit and how I fixed it...
[attachment=0:3r77ofrq] ia0 Soft-top_removal24.jpg ia0 [/attachment:3r77ofrq]
[attachment=1:3r77ofrq] ia1 Soft-top_removal25.jpg ia1 [/attachment:3r77ofrq]
[attachment=2:3r77ofrq] ia2 Soft-top_removal27.jpg ia2 [/attachment:3r77ofrq]
TBC
Continued; It must be noted that there are bushings in the pivot mounts that must be removed from the frame or they will drop out... Also, to remove the top you must remove riveted securing plates on the frame, there are 2 mirrored each side with elasticated fabric that I believe tensions the top... Remove and keep these plates also, if you are replacing the soft top. But fi you are simply removing the frame you needn't worry about this step, apologies for confusing matters.
[attachment=0:3h5t9vkv] ia0 Soft-top_removal28.jpg ia0 [/attachment:3h5t9vkv]
[attachment=1:3h5t9vkv] ia1 Soft-top_removal31.jpg ia1 [/attachment:3h5t9vkv]
[attachment=2:3h5t9vkv] ia2 Soft-top_removal32.jpg ia2 [/attachment:3h5t9vkv]
TBC
Continued; Now, your pivot tubes are not in a state to reuse, so I dressed the sharp edges off and cleaned them up (need a lick of paint also) to refit the cross bar and base plates, as shown:
[attachment=1:3rrr8uz8] ia1 Soft-top_removal34.jpg ia1 [/attachment:3rrr8uz8]
[attachment=2:3rrr8uz8] ia2 Soft-top_removal35.jpg ia2 [/attachment:3rrr8uz8]
[attachment=0:3rrr8uz8] ia0 Soft-top_removal33.jpg ia0 [/attachment:3rrr8uz8]
TBC
Continued; And finally, fit the base plates as removed, using the pivot tubes as they were before but without the soft top frame in place:
[attachment=0:1btr46i2] ia0 Soft-top_removal36.jpg ia0 [/attachment:1btr46i2]
[attachment=1:1btr46i2] ia1 Soft-top_removal37.jpg ia1 [/attachment:1btr46i2]
[attachment=2:1btr46i2] ia2 Soft-top_removal38.jpg ia2 [/attachment:1btr46i2]
End. Any questions, I'm happy to help. I will probably fab up replacement fasteners for the rear mount points using a shoulder bolt and bronze type bushing but won't be doing that any time soon.
Quote from: "Ardent"Black on yellow works for me.
Couldn't help noticing an unusal exhaust pipe.
Hi Ardent
Yes, it is a custom exhaust back box, hideous tip but it was on the car when I got it. I'm tempted to chop it off completely and either hide the tip back behind the bumper or cut it right behind the tip so still visible. But that isn't high on my priority as this build is about removing all that stuff, so I'll probably leave it for the time being.
Well, spent a bunch of hours setting up Torque app for JDM cars, reading what I needed, fishing out old android phone to run the app etc, plug into the car and no codes...
Twit, I left the battery disconnected for a fortnight to stop the alarm draining it. So the memory was clear... No chance SWMBO will let me go driving round trying to find fault codes... Another day then. Hopefully close to finding out why the thing keeps misfiring.
So, my electric conversion is turning into an ICE restoration... Since I figured out the running issues and got the car running well enough I'm going to switch tact of this thread to the body conversion first and plan and start the electric conversion in the background. More to follow.
Onwards. I did a bunch of work fabricating / modifying the 'custom' link pipe of my old system to adapt to a stock silencer on the bank holiday. All done and going great, except that fabricating a flange with materials available = 3mm steel plate that does not remain perfectly flat once welded. The flange joint to the silencer is blowing a little bit and I couldn't find my exhaust gasket paste. Got some more and will seal it up on the weekend for a proper drive. I was also able to remove the redundant o2 sensor bung and rewire the primary sensor like the PPE set-up to use 1 sensor for both inputs. Simply wired in parallel. Works a treat.
I'll let the pictures tell the story:
Original/custom setup I got with the car. I wasn't pleased with the pipework or resonator design. The link pipe is a bodged copy of a PPE setup but is functional at least, might be hampering performance a bit.
[attachment=2:2ikcoyi2] ia2 MR-S_original_custom_resonator.jpg ia2 [/attachment:2ikcoyi2]
[attachment=1:2ikcoyi2] ia1 MR-S_original_link_pipe.jpg ia1 [/attachment:2ikcoyi2]
AEM filter in place also, absolutely filthy (yes, I cleaned it also)
[attachment=0:2ikcoyi2] ia0 MR-S_original_exhaust-intake_setup.jpg ia0 [/attachment:2ikcoyi2]
Replacement setup, OE silencer to mate to the existing link pipe arrangement & PPE Header.
[attachment=2:33xm9091] ia2 MR2_stock_silencer.jpg ia2 [/attachment:33xm9091]
[attachment=1:33xm9091] ia1 MR-S_PPE-stock_silencer_conversion_layout.jpg ia1 [/attachment:33xm9091]
[attachment=0:33xm9091] ia0 MR-S_Link_pipe_fabrication.jpg ia0 [/attachment:33xm9091]
Is there a 3 image limit per post? I cannot seem to upload more than that. Anyway...
Fabricating the flange.
[attachment=2:2mnvv0hw] ia2 MR-S_welding_link_pipe_flange.jpg ia2 [/attachment:2mnvv0hw]
The blanked hole, not pretty but air tight...
[attachment=1:2mnvv0hw] ia1 MR-S_CAT_Link_pipe_blank.jpg ia1 [/attachment:2mnvv0hw]
The finished flange, no it isn't painted but I will at some point if I don't replace it with electrons...
[attachment=0:2mnvv0hw] ia0 MR-S_PPE-stock_silencer_flange.jpg ia0 [/attachment:2mnvv0hw]
The finished setup. With bumper on it looks stock except the crooked replica PPE CAT pipe hangs low, really low...
[attachment=0:1c1198l1] ia0 MR-S_PPE-stock_silencer.jpg ia0 [/attachment:1c1198l1]
Next I want to move the intake filter to up against the side vent rather than besides the exhaust! Hopefully I can get away with that before the boss ends the fun and in time for Ding Day. Oh and I will wrap the header and link pipe to reduce some heat and resonance from the exhaust.