been a member on here for a while and had previously had a DIY turbo build i parted out because it was burning oil badly and failing emissions
i replaced it with this
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fireblade engined Mk Indy on r888's, cosworth LSD, Wilwood 4 pots, Digital dash with lap timer etc
performance is brisk to say the least but its a bit much for the road, you never feel like your even close to the limits and my original plan was to tow it to track but when i ordered my daily driver (leased) i didn't tick the tow bar prep option (which involves cutting the bumper) so i cant fit a tow bar until that car is replaced (18 months)
so the original plan to do some track days is not really possible as the nearest track is at least 2 hours away
so time for another change of plan
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bought this off ebay blind, its filthy has no mot and the paint needs some love but......... it has a 2zz with 6 speed corolla box and Celica ECU
all the usual mr2 suspects (handbrake, subframe, steering UJ) seem to be ok (i was prepared for the worst) so just need to clean it up, sort an exhaust (more on that in a bit) get an MOT and should be track ready
so the exhaust............some of you may have seen this "race side exit system" on FB
So... you're keeping the 'unique' exhaust then...?
Quote from: "JasonSparks"So... you're keeping the 'unique' exhaust then...?
difficult decision as it clearly looks like a design that would flow very well but its a tad loud for me so not much use on strict track days
Quote from: "keljon"IMG_2162 (1).jpg
bought this off ebay blind, its filthy has no mot and the paint needs some love but......... it has a 2zz with 6 speed corolla box and Celica ECU
all the usual mr2 suspects (handbrake, subframe, steering UJ) seem to be ok (i was prepared for the worst) so just need to clean it up, sort an exhaust (more on that in a bit) get an MOT and should be track ready
I went to look at this car... I thought there was some idle/running issues with it as well as the general filth
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"Quote from: "keljon"IMG_2162 (1).jpg
bought this off ebay blind, its filthy has no mot and the paint needs some love but......... it has a 2zz with 6 speed corolla box and Celica ECU
all the usual mr2 suspects (handbrake, subframe, steering UJ) seem to be ok (i was prepared for the worst) so just need to clean it up, sort an exhaust (more on that in a bit) get an MOT and should be track ready
I went to look at this car... I thought there was some idle/running issues with it as well as the general filth
indeed i think the motor is sound but it only has 1 o2 sensor fitted and the plug wells are full of brown water, that combined with 3 year old petrol and im surprised it runs at all
One of my "customers" had this car at his garage for some time trying to wire the ECU up. from what I saw and heard is that he made a pigs ear of it, ie not running right. Think the owner had it towed away and I know was also looking for a new engine loom.
Quote from: "KRAMSNEHPETS"One of my "customers" had this car at his garage for some time trying to wire the ECU up. from what I saw and heard is that he made a pigs ear of it, ie not running right. Think the owner had it towed away and I know was also looking for a new engine loom.
That's useful info, thanks
Might explain why it's been stood as there is an invoice for the engine swap and then it seems to have been stood for some time
I would take it straight to headcase who would sort it out. I saw the car before I did my 2zz swap,i had all the info for the ecu wiring and throttle position swop etc. did say to him that it looked fairly straight forward but it was there a long time with the owner getting fed up with how ling it was taking. I can still see all the wires every where looking into the car!
Th world needs as many Black 2ZZ MR2's as possible, so I applaud this project.
Quote from: "KRAMSNEHPETS"I would take it straight to headcase who would sort it out. I saw the car before I did my 2zz swap,i had all the info for the ecu wiring and throttle position swop etc. did say to him that it looked fairly straight forward but it was there a long time with the owner getting fed up with how ling it was taking. I can still see all the wires every where looking into the car!
I spoke to the seller earlier and apparently the engine loom was replaced after the situation above so hopefully it won't be that but I have read through the swap guides and looks straight forward so I may check all the wiring anyway to be sure
drained the petrol and checked the pick up filter and inside of the tank, petrol was a very dark colour so must have been in there years, also checked for fault codes and im getting p1690 which i believe is related to the lift solenoid wiring so that may need looking at also.
need to weld a lambda boss in front the standard Cat and then decide what to do about an exhaust before i can run it up and see if i have still have running issues.
started building an exhaust, standard cat for the moment but will look to swap out for a re-angled celica manifold and sports cat later[attachment=0:1o6fefer] ia0 IMG_2189.jpg ia0 [/attachment:1o6fefer]
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running ok now?
not finished the exhaust to properly test it, waiting on gas for the mig
it runs better with some fresh petrol but still not right, need to clean the MAF and check the coils next
pleased with exhaust, nice and light, quiet at idle, will redo this at some point with a high flow cat and celica manifold
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plugs were a right state from water sitting in the holes
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Cleaned the maf, well actually replaced it as had a good spare and the o-ring was damaged on the original. Runs perfect now so just need to look at the wiring for the lift solenoid
Good job, don't think I've ever seen plugs in such a state!
Good job on the TLC bit, have you checked both OCVs for signs of filth? Worth a compression test now that you've sorted your ignition troubles
Quote from: "manos3003"Good job on the TLC bit, have you checked both OCVs for signs of filth? Worth a compression test now that you've sorted your ignition troubles
good shout, i have some new plugs on the way, so will replace them, do an oil change, compression test and clean the OCV strainers
Quote from: "keljon"good shout, i have some new plugs on the way, so will replace them, do an oil change, compression test and clean the OCV strainers
Which plugs did you get? For us 2zz chaps I'd recommend BKR6E-11 from NGK, change them every 5k with the oil and filter and MAF cleaning. Service on this car is almost like a ritual. Do it right, you get rewarded s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "keljon"good shout, i have some new plugs on the way, so will replace them, do an oil change, compression test and clean the OCV strainers
Which plugs did you get? For us 2zz chaps I'd recommend BKR6E-11 from NGK, change them every 5k with the oil and filter and MAF cleaning. Service on this car is almost like a ritual. Do it right, you get rewarded s:) :) s:)
yeah those plugs are what i ordered, used to have the same routine with my mk2 mr2 turbo's copper plugs and change them every service
Quote from: "keljon"yeah those plugs are what i ordered, used to have the same routine with my mk2 mr2 turbo's copper plugs and change them every service
Copper produces a better spark, being a more conductive material. It's ok if you have to change every 5k, I've now got to where I can do a service routine on my car within 20-30 minutes altogether.
Looks a great exhaust, how loud is it? Wanting to simplify my exhaust system at some point and remove the TTE twins.
Quote from: "m1tch"Looks a great exhaust, how loud is it? Wanting to simplify my exhaust system at some point and remove the TTE twins.
i haven't driven it in anger yet but its fairly quiet at idle but of course i am running the stock cat at the moment
Quote from: "keljon"drained the petrol and checked the pick up filter and inside of the tank, petrol was a very dark colour so must have been in there years, also checked for fault codes and I'm getting p1690 which i believe is related to the lift solenoid wiring so that may need looking at also.
need to weld a lambda boss in front the standard Cat and then decide what to do about an exhaust before i can run it up and see if i have still have running issues.
I had the same code (P1690) on a previous 2zz. Decided to start with the cheap options first and cleaned the OCV and all sorted s:) :) s:) Hope yours is as simple.
Quote from: "MilesH"Quote from: "keljon"drained the petrol and checked the pick up filter and inside of the tank, petrol was a very dark colour so must have been in there years, also checked for fault codes and I'm getting p1690 which i believe is related to the lift solenoid wiring so that may need looking at also.
need to weld a lambda boss in front the standard Cat and then decide what to do about an exhaust before i can run it up and see if i have still have running issues.
I had the same code (P1690) on a previous 2zz. Decided to start with the cheap options first and cleaned the OCV and all sorted s:) :) s:) Hope yours is as simple.
i was presuming its a wiring fault as sounds like this car has had some wiring issues in the past but i will check and clean the OCV's as a precaution.
So your code was caused by the valves seeing low pressure because the filter screens were blocked?
Quote from: "keljon"Quote from: "MilesH"Quote from: "keljon"drained the petrol and checked the pick up filter and inside of the tank, petrol was a very dark colour so must have been in there years, also checked for fault codes and I'm getting p1690 which i believe is related to the lift solenoid wiring so that may need looking at also.
need to weld a lambda boss in front the standard Cat and then decide what to do about an exhaust before i can run it up and see if i have still have running issues.
I had the same code (P1690) on a previous 2zz. Decided to start with the cheap options first and cleaned the OCV and all sorted s:) :) s:) Hope yours is as simple.
i was presuming its a wiring fault as sounds like this car has had some wiring issues in the past but i will check and clean the OCV's as a precaution.
So your code was caused by the valves seeing low pressure because the filter screens were blocked?
Yes, I had an intermittant lose of lift when driving and it took a few drives before it showed the code.
Quote from: "MilesH"Yes, I had an intermittant lose of lift when driving and it took a few drives before it showed the code.
The OCVs and the wiring were the first thing I checked when I rebuilt my engine s:) :) s:)
so the wiring was def wrong, everything was in the right position but one of the lift solenoid wires was grounded
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check light gone s:) :) s:)
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no faults found s:) :) s:)
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Sweet! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
Did say that that I think someone lashed it up!
Getting it ready for MOT so o/s/r caliper is binding, removed from car and disassembled, already had a seal kit but have ordered a new piston, mtech grooved and dimpled discs with black protective coating, yellow stuff pads, braided hoses (thanks Matt lee for the hoses) will do a full fluid flush with normal fluid for the moment but when it's been mot'd I will rebuild the front brakes and then swap to race fluid
Damm
Thats some dangerous looking wiring! s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
I'm guessing it looks better than that now
Quote from: "keljon"Getting it ready for MOT so o/s/r caliper is binding, removed from car and disassembled, already had a seal kit but have ordered a new piston, mtech grooved and dimpled discs with black protective coating, yellow stuff pads, braided hoses (thanks Matt lee for the hoses) will do a full fluid flush with normal fluid for the moment but when it's been mot'd I will rebuild the front brakes and then swap to race fluid
Don't forget to keep the old piston, you'll need to transfer the insert to the new piston so it can screw on the adjuster stud. Learn from my mistakes s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"Damm
Thats some dangerous looking wiring! s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
I'm guessing it looks better than that now
In fairness it was taped up but yes it's a much better job now
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "keljon"Getting it ready for MOT so o/s/r caliper is binding, removed from car and disassembled, already had a seal kit but have ordered a new piston, mtech grooved and dimpled discs with black protective coating, yellow stuff pads, braided hoses (thanks Matt lee for the hoses) will do a full fluid flush with normal fluid for the moment but when it's been mot'd I will rebuild the front brakes and then swap to race fluid
Don't forget to keep the old piston, you'll need to transfer the insert to the new piston so it can screw on the adjuster stud. Learn from my mistakes s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
I bought the pistons with the internals included as only a few pounds more
Quote from: "keljon"I bought the pistons with the internals included as only a few pounds more
Where did you get them from if you don't mind me asking?
Sorry having lost a previous car in a fire due to a previous owners bad wiring job, I'm a little sensitive to aftermarket wiring
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"Sorry having lost a previous car in a fire due to a previous owners bad wiring job, I'm a little sensitive to aftermarket wiring
No I totally agree, have seen some really shocking wiring on cars and bikes over the years.
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "keljon"I bought the pistons with the internals included as only a few pounds more
Where did you get them from if you don't mind me asking?
Bigg red, think it's a new thing
m https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272672813628 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272672813628) m
Have these waiting go go on as well
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managed to pick this up as well from the FB group, its already modified to suit an mr2
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did a bit more work over the weekend, almost ready for MOT now, just waiting on disks & pads from mtec http://www.mtecbrakes.com
O/S Rear calliper rebuilt with new seals and piston, gave it a couple coats of red smoothrite to smarten it up
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some goodies arrived, going to wayoyl inside the crossmember to try and kill the rot
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manky plugs in the bin
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compression test was all good, all around 225, as far as i can tell from the donors history this engine has done 60k
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small thing thats been bugging me since i got the car, the coil wiring was loose so cut down the plastic box so it fits the 2zz
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Was the compression test done with a hot or a cold engine? Planning on doing a leak test as well?
Cold engine, don't like pulling the plugs out of a hot engine. No reason to do a leak down test as it's running well.
Quote from: "keljon"Cold engine, don't like pulling the plugs out of a hot engine. No reason to do a leak down test as it's running well.
There's a difference between hot and cold compression test, mainly due to the fact that a hot engine is running properly with all gaps minimised due to thermal expansion and can be more representative of real driving conditions.
There's also chances a leak-down test might give you an indication something's amiss, whereas the compression test at the same time comes clean. It's possible. If your engine is running ok, then no need for one as you said, but it's good to keep these little things in mind.
Nonetheless, good numbers. Did you do a couple of quick oil changes to clean all the muck from the engine?
I'm not keen on pulling plugs from an aluminium head when it's hot.
Hot or cold aside, the main thing to look for is that all cylinders have similar readings
If I was troubleshooting I might do a leak down test but I only really did a compression test out of curiosity because I was swapping plugs.
No oil changes yet but have the oil ready
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "keljon"Cold engine, don't like pulling the plugs out of a hot engine. No reason to do a leak down test as it's running well.
There's a difference between hot and cold compression test, mainly due to the fact that a hot engine is running properly with all gaps minimised due to thermal expansion and can be more representative of real driving conditions.
There's also chances a leak-down test might give you an indication something's amiss, whereas the compression test at the same time comes clean. It's possible. If your engine is running ok, then no need for one as you said, but it's good to keep these little things in mind.
Nonetheless, good numbers. Did you do a couple of quick oil changes to clean all the muck from the engine?
Some more parts arrived today so gave the hub and suspension arms a wire brush followed by some rust treatment then black smoothrite. Rebuilt caliper back on with HEL braided hose, mtech dimpled and grooved disk and yellow stuff pads.
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bought a lotus cover to try and stop the plug wells filling up with water again
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whipped the exhaust off to weld on some hangers
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and wrapped the pipes
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all back on ready for MOT
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also have changed the oil, painted the other caliper, replaced disk and pads, painted all the suspension arms, anti roll bar, hubs. Rear has braided hoses and flushed fluid through, adjusted the handbrake.
Smart.
bought these for a future project
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That looks suspiciously like a rotrex bracket to me.
bang on
Quote from: "1979scotte"That looks suspiciously like a rotrex bracket to me.
Quote from: "keljon"bang on
Quote from: "1979scotte"That looks suspiciously like a rotrex bracket to me.
Probably seen more than most tbh and I have bought one for me V6.
Best of luck with the project.
They make great power.
MOT done, had some fun with the handbrake but all sorted now
also cleaned and greased the front calipers
Nicola from the FB group (not sure if your on here) kindly donated a red leather seat back for postage to replace my split one so i replaced that, gave the interior a good hoover and clean with both seats out.
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Then a decent wash, claybar, polish and wax, there are some areas of paint which could do with some attention and both bumpers need to be replaced but its getting there.
Did some rust prevention by injecting the crossmember with Waxoyl and treating and painting some more of the suspension arms and the mountings.
Also bought my old 17x9 & 17x8 Rota wheels back, am thinking i will use these for the road for now and get the PFL wheels i have stripped so i can paint them for track use.
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fitted the front miester R's, looks so much better on coilovers with the Rota's
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Engine bay looking cleaner, need to paint the rocker cover and fit my lotus cover
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Quick front shot
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and rear
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some notes for future ref
PFL wheel weights with tyres
Front 15KG
Rear 16.5
Rota Grid 17x7.5 ET45 with 1954017 16KG
Rota Grid 17x9 offset?? with 2054017 NS2 20KG
T-Sport 16x6 with tyre 16.5KG
Front leather seat 12KG
almost in a happy place
Decided i dont like the Rota Grid, they are big and heavy which is against the general ethos of this build so i have bought some
white Rota Slipstream 16x7 which are just over 6kg.
I have picked up some yellowstuff pads for the front so will be running yellowstuff all round with braided hoses and ATE fluid
Replaced some exhaust gaskets and fitted the proper shanked bolts for the spring flexi joint
Fitted an evap solenoid and post cat o2 sensor to stop the lack of them generating fault codes
Fitted my Lotus coilpack cover with some shiny red bolts and some spacers i had kicking about
Fitted the rear coilovers, just waiting on ARB droplinks to arrive
Removed the aerial as i have no radio and its on my list of weight saving items to remove
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new wheels on, really happy with the look and the rears are only 13kg with tyres so nice and light
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What wheels and size are they ?
In the post above and my signature
Rear strut brace fitted for added stiffness
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Can I ask what you did about the hole in the wing after your aerial removal?
Quote from: "keljon"new wheels on, really happy with the look and the rears are only 13kg with tyres so nice and light
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Thos look rather nice... what are they?
Quote from: "Mikeymead"Can I ask what you did about the hole in the wing after your aerial removal?
nothing yet, probably just get a grommet to fit there
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"Quote from: "keljon"new wheels on, really happy with the look and the rears are only 13kg with tyres so nice and light
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Thos look rather nice... what are they?
Rota slipstream, yeah i am really happy with them