Bit the bullet and started to do some work on the conversion tonight.
Started by removing the old shocks and fitting the front MeisterR coil overs... (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180114/78ed37a2d4ef900124aeb672f81215ff.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180114/544bc7ffa8fa9c374d19cf14000c9288.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180114/22b49745da4b0552d8868284ec691c76.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180114/9ee3e4a1413279c0579659012953c531.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180114/96293d3e7a0a186dd57a3d3345eed67b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180114/bef2c2834305195351cc0583ea73c5ad.jpg)
Very simple to swap over. I wanted them out of the way and probably less chance of getting damaged if they are on the car!
The brakes will be changed, so I'm not concerned with their poor state.
The rears won't be going on yet, I have to fabricate a hub carrier there to take the audi hubs and all the Toyota suspension pickup points.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180114/a5ad5fb349aee3e1eef021bb65ec4c3a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180114/70c0417afb0df49d12f9106de09a302c.jpg)
I dare say this is going to be a very interesting thread to follow.
Wishing you the best of luck.
Well done for making a start. Getting some smaller wins under the belt should help encourage you.
Have you got a list of jobs?
Quote from: "StuC"Well done for making a start. Getting some smaller wins under the belt should help encourage you.
Have you got a list of jobs?
I'm guessing a very big list when shoe horning a v8 in a 2 lol
What v8 you going for ? 4.2 Audi would be my choice
Quote from: "StuC"Well done for making a start. Getting some smaller wins under the belt should help encourage you.
Have you got a list of jobs?
It's mental at the moment!
Next will be stripping the rear hubs off so I can replicate them for audi hubs...
Quote from: "secla"What v8 you going for ? 4.2 Audi would be my choice
Yes it's a 4.2 ABZ from an A8 mated to an OB1 6 speed from a front drive A5. It's the motor that Paul Woods developed especially for MR2 install. I bought it 4 years ago. The gearbox has about 500 miles on it.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180114/47924aa2a0c05b7943abfcaf081163d5.jpg)
Very nice!
A thread with V8 in the title is sureto attract attention. I was actually reminded of the crazy MK1 Paul Woods has built. No small task by any stretch.
How is it likely to sit within the body of the MK3? If I recall there was a fair amount of chopping and re-fabricating involved when Paul made his MK1.
Good luck with it! Little bits at a time and you'll soon have a mental V8 Roadster. Could it even be a first?
Quote from: "rich_p"Very nice!
A thread with V8 in the title is sureto attract attention. I was actually reminded of the crazy MK1 Paul Woods has built. No small task by any stretch.
How is it likely to sit within the body of the MK3? If I recall there was a fair amount of chopping and re-fabricating involved when Paul made his MK1.
Good luck with it! Little bits at a time and you'll soon have a mental V8 Roadster. Could it even be a first?
Cheers! Like you say.. Bit by bit!
The trouble Paul had with the mk1 was the older generation gearbox. The ob1 has the driveshaft output between flywheel and clutch - hence the 550mm overall length from shaft to rear of engine - that should obviate the bulkhead cutting...
Time will tell!
Great to see this all starting to happen, goodluck with it and I for one will be glued to your thread!
I'll keep an eye on this. On the Porsche Boxsters the driveshafts were angled forwards quite a bit so having the diff output flanges inline with the hubs isn't strictly necessary. I remember someone attempted a V8 swap years back on a Mk3. The biggest hurdle seems to be the rear cross member, the gearbox wants to sit right in the middle.
Quote from: "Escy"I'll keep an eye on this. On the Porsche Boxsters the driveshafts were angled forwards quite a bit so having the diff output flanges inline with the hubs isn't strictly necessary. I remember someone attempted a V8 swap years back on a Mk3. The biggest hurdle seems to be the rear cross member, the gearbox wants to sit right in the middle.
Yes they do angle quite a bit - but every little helps back there!
The cross member is going to scrap - this guy has sussed it and created a work of art too!
m https://youtu.be/RM4lXhWWl7E (https://youtu.be/RM4lXhWWl7E) m
Tonight I made a start on removing the rear mr2 hub. I need to replicate the suspension pickup points and build a carrier for the Audi hub.
Removal of the caliper and disc was straightforward but the hub nut was tight - as expected.
I temp refitted the disc and caliper and then jammed the disc from turning thru the inspection hole in the top of the caliper, with a drift. Then I could lean on the hub nut after freeing the bent tab, and off she popped!
The suspension bolts were a pig but eventually gave in to leverage and penetrating fluid.
Tapping the drive shaft with the nut on the end freed it on the spines but I can't get the abs sensor out. Looks like that will be sacrificed....
Next job is to figure out how to fabricate the new hub carrier.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/aae10cd630745a664875b324b6082caf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/4dc3c8d73228ba863d692a8f06c8ae30.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/395b66a700ac7ae730d39235f0a3f6bd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/f088fac9bda344e5adb66084e2c291eb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/90c72fe6d926a28ae13cbea42a808472.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/2aecde17251ff5ac89e28ccfc69aede4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/7adbe1bc4fbdb6634c02505d75fff476.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/df1df5c7ebf69bbac1fec2713e9bb044.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/2ea86ea7a205fdd2b6a008afd67ff277.jpg)
The car is up quite high now but I'll have to adjust it numerous times no doubt when removing the engine.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/40f20881d1e73a61f64e0f9f61bc6f2f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/acf7874b61c52298b26851c007881177.jpg)
Great photos man- I'm interested to see which Jack points you used? Mine is about to be put up for a long time...
That YouTube video of the cross member is a great solution for that project, but will you have space for that big top element of the cross member (shown at 6:38 in the video)? Your engine looks like it takes up all that space.
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Great photos man- I'm interested to see which Jack points you used? Mine is about to be put up for a long time...
At the front it's on axle stands located on the chassis rail where the suspension bolts up. The rear are oak blocks directly under the cill jacking points. I have also put axle stands along side them too for safety. The oak blocks are at 45 degrees to the side of the car - that stops it from swaying sideways.
Quote from: "lamcote"That YouTube video of the cross member is a great solution for that project, but will you have space for that big top element of the cross member (shown at 6:38 in the video)? Your engine looks like it takes up all that space.
The engine won't come that far back so it should be ok. I'll remove the oem panel between the rear suspension towers and fabricate something fit for purpose.
Jacking support points (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180119/171b5dfe2b865906243fe06ab8edfacb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180119/7f2a821358b2d85729e5c38bd66e89d4.jpg)
I call dibs on that manifold when it comes out s:) :) s:)
I call second dibs!!!
It is a zero right?
Thanks for posting the pics- I didn't realise you could put a Jack on the front bit there...
Flipping eck! eagle eyed folks!
Very interesting conversion. Always wanted a V8 roadster, so will be following with interest.
Quote from: "jvanzyl"I call second dibs!!!
It is a zero right?
Thanks for posting the pics- I didn't realise you could put a Jack on the front bit there...
It's right at the point where the chassis leg is - Don't put one on the suspension arm - it will probably bend it and it's just pressed steel, not box.
Manifold is Toyosport off eBay.
I'll be offering parts when they come out s:) :) s:)
Before I pull the whole car apart... can anyone tell me if the ABS ecu is independent to the engine ecu?
Nearside rear hub removal was a lot easier. Often the way when we have learned the technique previously!
The balljoint puller kit had to be utilised on the tie rod end this side.
As before the abs sensor is the worst thing to remove - seized good and propper!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180121/626f8e9613604dc9617d8e0e81e95b40.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180121/784522b067b703e45de83b9d6bfca4d3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180121/92edb4615f26961b1a01ddb01b03540f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180121/2c2060197aaee70a28b8d688b48b007b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180121/bd0b8ec3d96572333f48afd54219e5e7.jpg)
Started to design the rear hub carrier....(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180122/4060ac4c759c2648b7a4fad2f9f5cc13.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180122/6b0e5a15f41f2c3b656114448ff52ae8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180122/df19dfb04db69b864132fffe2d3ffbaa.jpg)
Had a play on the cad to draw up a carrier design. The Audi hub will bolt to this "donut" then the suspension arm brackets can be fitted from a jig off the original Toyota hub.
Quote from: "8thumpers"Had a play on the cad to draw up a carrier design. The Audi hub will bolt to this "donut" then the suspension arm brackets can be fitted from a jig off the original Toyota hub.
Can't load video......
Cad design (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180123/1811dc3990d162e9dc6df0398672bd62.jpg)
Wow man- this is brilliant! I especially appreciate the photos of you taking apart the tie rod stage by stage as I've not seen the before...
This is the Audi OB1 "Star Wars" gearbox.
Think about it....
I've offered it up for the first time today and it is shorter than I 1st thought... the rear should just sit inside the bumper line.
Of course the final location will be determined by the engine/ firewall position.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/2c978508464b6e85fd5d2bb484cf330c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/08c133b9db3370bb5b33c427d492a9b2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/d1edc957b1379ea8c5c889f9212ce9db.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/1bf7af1a6f5c86555ed568dec3fd5881.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/3f32ef25d23e3efedff9fd5a7928e572.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/443cc2e78cd9a1550cb5377fe86e2cf6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/4f2839895170beaef13058721eeac6cb.jpg)
You can see how the driveshafts work in these new generation boxes. The diff is located alongside the flywheel meaning a much shorter total package length from front of engine to c/l of output shafts.
A quick track measure between mr2 and Audi shows they are very close on width between driveshaft ends... maybe 30mm or so difference.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/2c414bec4853a50d4d62ffb478f1e282.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/f554e62a4e17f764d870ced7ef6b2c51.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/d826360b8380909c750eabdc87157993.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/6a6485fd5314e26a61f08455444b7951.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180124/583d632d0e5d6650f8d08de1771d36bd.jpg)
Good work Otto!
Keep us updated, with as much detail as possible. Interested to see how you can shoehorn this huge lump in that small car.
Quote from: "manos3003"Good work Otto!
Keep us updated, with as much detail as possible. Interested to see how you can shoehorn this huge lump in that small car.
Cheers mate!
Well it looks like it might just fit.....
Curious about the driveshafts. Is the offset angle that big that might change the torsional vibrations?
For plain-english-peeps: In a hard acceleration, if the driveshafts are at a large offset, will that cause the car to shake horribly, or worse (which I dread to think, let alone mention)
Quote from: "manos3003"Curious about the driveshafts. Is the offset angle that big that might change the torsional vibrations?
For plain-english-peeps: In a hard acceleration, if the driveshafts are at a large offset, will that cause the car to shake horribly, or worse (which I dread to think, let alone mention)
I don't think the shafts will be offset at all... at least that is the plan.
Interestingly, on a Boxster they are quite offset from hub to gearbox.
Ill know more when the old engine etc is out and I can make an initial offering up in the bay.
Off the fabricator now to see about these hubs.....
Offset driveshafts on porkies Ithink you will find the Boxster has drive shafts in line with the rear hubs (the engine is in front) its the 911 (engine behind rear hubs) that has the drive shafts offset forward. The first 911 2ltr had straight driveshafts but had a habit of going through hedges backwards this was cuured? by moving the eng/box forward thus offset shafts! no problem with 911s.transmitting power through there shafts cheers grey beardgt
Quote from: "greybeardgt"Offset driveshafts on porkies Ithink you will find the Boxster has drive shafts in line with the rear hubs (the engine is in front) its the 911 (engine behind rear hubs) that has the drive shafts offset forward. The first 911 2ltr had straight driveshafts but had a habit of going through hedges backwards this was cuured? by moving the eng/box forward thus offset shafts! no problem with 911s.transmitting power through there shafts cheers grey beardgt
Thanx for the clarification!
No probs with that for us in the 2s s:) :) s:)
After setting up the driveshafts and hubs from both Audi and MR2 gearboxes, I have determined that the hub wheel face will project out 56mm each side, from the Toyota position once the star wars box is in.
I had anticipated it would be wider and assumed I'd need wider bodywork to cover it.....
Hi, cool project!!!
Regarding the rear hubs, have you considered having the audi hub machined down to a normal Bearing (like the Mr2 has as stock) and just mount it in the hub as stock?
From the picture it looks like the inner hole in the bearing is big, but the outer diameter looks small.
Or maybe you can use find another bearing with the audi inner diameter, and Toyota outer diameter.
Just a tip, dont know if it is even possible, but will sure make it easier for you!
Good luck whatever you do!!!
Quote from: "toyofan"Hi, cool project!!!
Regarding the rear hubs, have you considered having the audi hub machined down to a normal Bearing (like the Mr2 has as stock) and just mount it in the hub as stock?
From the picture it looks like the inner hole in the bearing is big, but the outer diameter looks small.
Or maybe you can use find another bearing with the audi inner diameter, and Toyota outer diameter.
Just a tip, dont know if it is even possible, but will sure make it easier for you!
Good luck whatever you do!!!
Thanks for the suggestion...
The issue is that the Audi shafts are HUGE compared to the Toyota ones - mixing bearings from the 2 marques just won't work....
The fabrication of the new hub is quite straightforward really! - keep the suggestions coming tho s:) :) s:)
The norm on engine swaps is to make a half and half shaft with inner Audi and outer Toyota
Having to widen and rework hubs seems a bit more complicated
Quote from: "secla"The norm on engine swaps is to make a half and half shaft with inner Audi and outer Toyota
Having to widen and rework hubs seems a bit more complicated
I was keen to have upgraded shafts and hubs with all that torque - hence keeping the Audi ones. [emoji4]
This gives you an idea of the extra strength in the Audi shaft.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/25032f63ce8f7e90925569bcd96786c2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/6a05f8b184577a68b858f81c3b92fe52.jpg)
It's a bit thicker isn't it [emoji3]
The 40 valve ABZ v8 4.2ltr (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/5a7e92f140c36b128015a8ef4869c55c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/8fe81faf1ad45fed8c741b8a6596c9f4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/a32cc92f720b01e51e1f17c97ff34b1f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/754865ddaa5f899fe9450302e9c4f6c6.jpg)
Quote from: "jonbill"It's a bit thicker isn't it [emoji3]
Just a bit! Lol
Rear bumper off and some crash damage discovered to rear bumper bar. I'll get something fabricated here anyway to suit Obiwan(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/dd069a1d23aa338f558d0f3dc00a7da3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/428b9e70f172009e665fd0f58fb4b0c8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/5ce82d4ba616bc74b97c8f5ff5a5b44f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/b36192c8086005ce1d2211b98faf5ea7.jpg)
Zorst is off. If anyone wants a nearly new cat and sports manifold let me know....
The box isn't bad either.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/66737393aa0c05962086d331385f62a1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/447d275af4547638c3239d11afe92d63.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180127/b5597b337906c3e034b35f2b0cfd6760.jpg)
Dibs on the manifold (price pending)
Nice thread - Been following (but not commenting - much braver than me, and way above my knowledge range)
Quote from: "Justin.D"Dibs on the manifold (price pending)
Nice thread - Been following (but not commenting - much braver than me, and way above my knowledge range)
Pm you
Quote from: "greybeardgt"Offset driveshafts on porkies Ithink you will find the Boxster has drive shafts in line with the rear hubs
The 986 3.2 certainly has the driveshafts angled forwards. They've got a reputation for chewing through cv boots because of it.
The gear linkage on the 2 box might just be of use on the starwars box....
It's simple to disconnect by flicking out the spring pins on the end of the cable. The circlips that retain the cable into the housing are a bit fiddly but soon came once I pressed the top tabs with a screwdriver.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/bba5391a6f1e080b8a00b8600fe52784.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/06500694f56bc04ee356c65e6184d663.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/744bd720d31e4e49f68538456b0b9822.jpg)
Next to go was the subframe. It's only held on with two bolts underneath, each side into the chassis rail. The ABS wire has a bracket bolted onto the subframe each side - those had to come off too.
The rear gearbox mount had a central bolt which comes out easily enough.
Then it's a matter of dropping the subframe down on a jack - it's not heavy at all.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/57d3b756fc76844742c9776527a7f9ae.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/d270d311d4d2b3ddef70804f76ece8b4.jpg)
Disconnecting all the wiring loom connections from the engine looked like the simplest way to get it free. It's a bit fiddly and the only one I couldnt get to was the crank sensor, which is under the inlet manifold - I left this 'til the motor was on the floor, along with the fuel supply pipe.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/447957ea3b61c862a9015cbf1efb2c19.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/5ee5d6cd5dde2d72c61d4625d68bfc67.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/78d8fb60694813ec73fe06b6b167f7b4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/92d706a54d70596eb92f1219078fcdf1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/7a5b48073cbbb594e9d520302958459f.jpg)
The front mount by the fuel tank has another centre bolt. Take that out next and the motor will hang from the side mounts.
Then I got a jack under it on a piece of timber under the bellhousing and sump.
Ease the weight up and take the left mount centre bolt out.
The right mount has a verticle bolt in it which was a bit seized. It came out, but I ended up removing the whole mount from the chassis rail to get more room to manoeuvre the motor.
It dropped down easily on the jack and now we have a hole!
Next job is to bolt up Obiwan to the ABZ and see what it looks like for space... (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/16bed1de213e77b7400600ba7f3cc7a3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/b67835a90ac040e9024a508550268e0d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/cabb189755ff82a5da2386115e14cf41.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/fca589ed4f328b58db33aa268aeda34a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/65d995557db04437821e5cc1db8c76e3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/2f04af780fbb0d8ec78f8b7e9c96d34e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/f845c973e4be63e7db96716eb94b9f8b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/10a1198949de0398c52ed2b8536bf14d.jpg)
Thought I'd better assemble the new crane....(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/7a318e7884585bb2a20c2428cb1ec909.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/883e200e21d4614e74bf04d4d35c984e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180201/84577a2743e41e137100c714d921e588.jpg)
I took a flier a good few months back and bought a flywheel, from a breaker, which fits the Audi A5 3ltr TFSI engine... it has the same number of bolts as the v8. I had no idea if it would fit but as the clutch pack is from the A5 it looked like a good starting point to get something suitable fabricated.
Today was the first time I have had the engine off the stand in around 4 years... the flywheel marries up perfectly to the v8 crank and just needs the smallest amount of material taking off the inside face of the spigot to get a flush fit. To say I am pleased is an understatement! [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]
Next job is to bolt the box and 8 together for a trial fit in the 2 engine bay.
Then the fun will start!!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180202/9071819c63c075b9294413c956c78698.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180202/b0c9bcb9896261a6f3643f464fbc5871.jpg)
Big milestone today, looking forward to seeing things progress.
Quote from: s12vea on February 2, 2018, 21:12
Big milestone today, looking forward to seeing things progress.
Yes... I fear it will slow down a bit once the mating process begins! Lol
It's mated!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180203/5b92351c1056e8289a220a94197c577c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180203/72b61bea4172d3ea5e488b2aa97f6495.jpg)
Well done for getting them together.
I bet you stood back from that earlier, hands on hips, with a great big satisfying smile on your face! :-D
As an engineer who has used computers to put engines into holes they were not made for... I am watching with excitement to see how this "fits" into your 2.
Really looking forward to your next update. :-)
Quote from: StuC on February 3, 2018, 23:55
Well done for getting them together.
I bet you stood back from that earlier, hands on hips, with a great big satisfying smile on your face! :-D
As an engineer who has used computers to put engines into holes they were not made for... I am watching with excitement to see how this "fits" into your 2.
Really looking forward to your next update. :-)
Sure did! Cheers Stu - unfortunately I didn't have enough correct sized bolts to tighten them up and lift them off the ground...
Then I can get it offered up in the 2!
Details... live in the win for today. You've earned it. [emoji3]
I can't believe that's going to fit!
Quote from: 8thumpers on January 18, 2018, 23:26
Tonight I made a start on removing the rear mr2 hub. I need to replicate the suspension pickup points and build a carrier for the Audi hub.
Removal of the caliper and disc was straightforward but the hub nut was tight - as expected.
I temp refitted the disc and caliper and then jammed the disc from turning thru the inspection hole in the top of the caliper, with a drift. Then I could lean on the hub nut after freeing the bent tab, and off she popped!
The suspension bolts were a pig but eventually gave in to leverage and penetrating fluid.
Tapping the drive shaft with the nut on the end freed it on the spines but I can't get the abs sensor out. Looks like that will be sacrificed....
Next job is to figure out how to fabricate the new hub carrier.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/aae10cd630745a664875b324b6082caf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/4dc3c8d73228ba863d692a8f06c8ae30.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/395b66a700ac7ae730d39235f0a3f6bd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/f088fac9bda344e5adb66084e2c291eb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/90c72fe6d926a28ae13cbea42a808472.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/2aecde17251ff5ac89e28ccfc69aede4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/7adbe1bc4fbdb6634c02505d75fff476.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/df1df5c7ebf69bbac1fec2713e9bb044.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/2ea86ea7a205fdd2b6a008afd67ff277.jpg)
All the intense, impressive technical stuff aside I'm loving the repurposing of the paint roller trays! I'm adding that to my list of ways and means. [emoji1303]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 4, 2018, 09:52
Quote from: 8thumpers on January 18, 2018, 23:26
Tonight I made a start on removing the rear mr2 hub. I need to replicate the suspension pickup points and build a carrier for the Audi hub.
Removal of the caliper and disc was straightforward but the hub nut was tight - as expected.
I temp refitted the disc and caliper and then jammed the disc from turning thru the inspection hole in the top of the caliper, with a drift. Then I could lean on the hub nut after freeing the bent tab, and off she popped!
The suspension bolts were a pig but eventually gave in to leverage and penetrating fluid.
Tapping the drive shaft with the nut on the end freed it on the spines but I can't get the abs sensor out. Looks like that will be sacrificed....
Next job is to figure out how to fabricate the new hub carrier.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/aae10cd630745a664875b324b6082caf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/4dc3c8d73228ba863d692a8f06c8ae30.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/395b66a700ac7ae730d39235f0a3f6bd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/f088fac9bda344e5adb66084e2c291eb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/90c72fe6d926a28ae13cbea42a808472.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/2aecde17251ff5ac89e28ccfc69aede4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/7adbe1bc4fbdb6634c02505d75fff476.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/df1df5c7ebf69bbac1fec2713e9bb044.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180118/2ea86ea7a205fdd2b6a008afd67ff277.jpg)
All the intense, impressive technical stuff aside I'm loving the repurposing of the paint roller trays! I'm adding that to my list of ways and means. [emoji1303]
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They are brilliant - dirt cheap and get under tight spaces :)
Properly bolted up but will need some offset bolts sorting underneath the bellhousing. Not a major issue.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/7809680e3e102d3a9785dbbf6538fcbb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/4571cedd0967fbfba03cf9a8f3b83896.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/8d282974a3f4ee44879387f228fcfe6e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/045441972a60afe8a6a0090f85ba6b40.jpg)
First time offered into the engine bay.
The fan is still in situ at this point and will be coming off. I had to see just how it might fit....
There is loads of room for exhausts etc each side but I think I may be cutting the bulkhead a little. I'll try again with the fan off and get a better idea..(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/7bcebe129073860d2cd35d19343ea6d3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/adb43fdd2ad01cc26ef30b53b3dfa8cb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/b8c9c2744b8964cb503f970ff8f21956.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/94c6f4f9a917b99017f193eb455451b1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/c388e90ee9d2915e196aead5efb52193.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/4f78b664e01992581d00b56ce91993c2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/3f796de60b630e57feb271da8fdf8738.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/2d73dae12aa8a3fd369a72df3a230791.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180207/bd307d6052a50791c3c7f213cedf6f88.jpg)
No-one dare say that fits! Well it doesn't not fit... But that doesn't mean it fits! Crazy... And very well done so far. Looking forward to your progress.
Quote from: MrT on February 7, 2018, 22:05
No-one dare say that fits! Well it doesn't not fit... But that doesn't mean it fits! Crazy... And very well done so far. Looking forward to your progress.
Cheers buddy!
I took it out and removed the old 1ZZ engine mounts on the chassis. Also took the audi fan off and then put it back in again...
Gained another few cm and although the driveshafts aren't directly straight I think I can get it something like without chopping the bulkhead!!
I offered up the rear bumper to see if Obiwan sticks out too much at the back... I'll post pics tomorrow but see what you think..
This is a major moment and changes the whole project timescale for sure!
I'm not counting any chickens but a good way to end the night!
Excellent news, when will you have conversion kits ready?
How far off were the driveshaft centres to the hub centres?
What's the overall length of the power train versus the distance to inside fave of the bumper beam?
Also what's the distance from the front of the power train to the centres of driveshaft exit? Likewise, distance from the bulkhead to the hub centres?
Those should give you some ideas of how much you might need to move it forward in car and how much is sticking out the rear... of any. Quick and dirty, but frames the picture. [emoji3]
It's not in the correct vertical position but shows how it fits lengthways.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180208/4060ec9dca052b050603fe6a07108bf2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180208/01193b2bc142fab39911751a03518ab2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180208/483bbb29f940d5d9082e9ec501f129a0.jpg)
Driveshaft offset...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180208/8054ed10a8935bfb34b9fde9f3bcd426.jpg)
By eye from the pictures... looks like the end of the box would only just tuck under bumper of the drive shaft had perfect alignment.
Guessing that's about 150mm difference longitudinally?
By the way, thanks for the pictures. [emoji3]
Quote from: StuC on February 8, 2018, 08:40
By eye from the pictures... looks like the end of the box would only just tuck under bumper of the drive shaft had perfect alignment.
Guessing that's about 150mm difference longitudinally?
By the way, thanks for the pictures. [emoji3]
Yes if I take out the fuel tank and bulkhead it would fit easily..... question is, is it worth the hassle....? A lot of hassle. I'd kind of like to do it without and prove it can be done...then I can make a kit for everyone! Lol
Do you know what driveshafts you are using? If so, do you know what their angular capability is. Most can cope with about 5-10 degrees.
If you are within that, there is nothing from stopping you going ahead as is.
My biggest reservation at that point would be susceptibility to damage for the bit sticking out. Unless you put a reversing sensor in the back of the box! ;-)
Only you can answer the question of is it worth the hassle, as it's your hassle.
My 2p... there will be a lot of extra work, BUT you will end up with the bulk of the additional weight will be closer to the centre of the car where it should be & you'll end up with a cleaner OE looking install.
Quote from: StuC on February 8, 2018, 09:28
Do you know what driveshafts you are using? If so, do you know what their angular capability is. Most can cope with about 5-10 degrees.
If you are within that, there is nothing from stopping you going ahead as is.
My biggest reservation at that point would be susceptibility to damage for the bit sticking out. Unless you put a reversing sensor in the back of the box! ;-)
Only you can answer the question of is it worth the hassle, as it's your hassle.
My 2p... there will be a lot of extra work, BUT you will end up with the bulk of the additional weight will be closer to the centre of the car where it should be & you'll end up with a cleaner OE looking install.
Already considering it.... I'm not fussed about the gearbox exposure... driveshaft angle is a concern though.... I think its just a bit much...
It would be nice to move the engine and transmission further forward.
Even on the 2gr swaps there is only a small chunk taken out of the rear subframe. All the weight is pretty much still within the wheelbase.
Hope you succeed could be my next project.
Surely there's another transmission that is 20cm shorter or so.
Edit: guess not haha. By far the shortest
Quote from: shnazzle on February 8, 2018, 13:48
Surely there's another transmission that is 20cm shorter or so.
Edit: guess not haha. By far the shortest
My lawnmower has a really compact tranny.. .. unsure of V8 capabilities tho..
[emoji23]🤣
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 8, 2018, 10:28
It would be nice to move the engine and transmission further forward.
Even on the 2gr swaps there is only a small chunk taken out of the rear subframe. All the weight is pretty much still within the wheelbase.
Hope you succeed could be my next project.
Either way the 2 subframe has been junked - I'll be making a tube affair to replace it
Out of interest, will you be replacing the timing chains and guides before you put the engine in?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: jvanzyl on February 9, 2018, 19:14
Out of interest, will you be replacing the timing chains and guides before you put the engine in?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes I'll be giving it a full going over including new clutch and water pump too. Seems like a lot of hassle once it's in -
although I think It will be fairly straightforward to drop it out once I have completed the conversion...
That's good to hear- there is a general feeling on the forums that the JHM stuff is the way to go..
So tonight's job was to strip the rear interior to find the friendly bulkhead.
I am going to make the space and get the drive shafts aligned correctly.
I think I'll need about 150mm extra space so there sure isn't an issue with imposing on the oem seat back positions. There is a lot of room there but I will of course lose the cubby storage.
The engine ecu looks fairly independent to the main loom but if anyone has any wiring diagrams that I can have, that would be very much appreciated. TIA [emoji106] (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180209/04376014cdf9f7ceb9185f7d104c3605.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180209/063940833fc45377c9115712f44bd36c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180209/b483ccec236700a3136096ec3b99cb5c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180209/4744f570f7c0f12bcd2045568c462588.jpg)
Oh.. and I found £1.40 And 2 fag lighters under the seat when I removed them!!
Bonus 🤣[emoji23]🤣
A Brucey bonus if I ever saw one!
Don't spend it all at once! ;-)
Quote from: 8thumpers on February 9, 2018, 21:46
So tonight's job was to strip the rear interior to find the friendly bulkhead.
I am going to make the space and get the drive shafts aligned correctly.
I think I'll need about 150mm extra space so there sure isn't an issue with imposing on the oem seat back positions. There is a lot of room there but I will of course lose the cubby storage.
The engine ecu looks fairly independent to the main loom but if anyone has any wiring diagrams that I can have, that would be very much appreciated. TIA [emoji106] (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180209/04376014cdf9f7ceb9185f7d104c3605.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180209/063940833fc45377c9115712f44bd36c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180209/b483ccec236700a3136096ec3b99cb5c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180209/4744f570f7c0f12bcd2045568c462588.jpg)
Try a google search with a combination of the words testroete, maybe with .com and almost definitely the vehicle manufacturer on the end...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks to callthemidlife ...
All the wiring diagrams we need!
MOD - sorry that content is copyrighted by Toyota and we can't be seen distributing a link infringing on that copyright. We've been down this road with Toyota before :(
Quote from: 8thumpers on February 10, 2018, 08:49
Thanks to callthemidlife ...
All the wiring diagrams we need!
MOD - sorry that content is copyrighted by Toyota and we can't be seen distributing a link infringing on that copyright. We've been down this road with Toyota before :(
Apologies, thought I'd been vague enough with the general suggestion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 10, 2018, 10:22
Quote from: 8thumpers on February 10, 2018, 08:49
Thanks to callthemidlife ...
All the wiring diagrams we need!
MOD - sorry that content is copyrighted by Toyota and we can't be seen distributing a link infringing on that copyright. We've been down this road with Toyota before :(
Apologies, thought I'd been vague enough with the general suggestion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ahhh ok! I understand ;)
I was wondering what you are going to do about offsetting the loss of that bulkhead once you have cut a big hole in it?
Quote from: lamcote on February 11, 2018, 10:01
I was wondering what you are going to do about offsetting the loss of that bulkhead once you have cut a big hole in it?
I'll rebuild it boxed into the cabin a bit. The cross member underneath will have to have a replacement too, to give some lateral strength back. That gives the opportunity to provide a front mount for the engine too.
Fuel tank is going in the frunk.
What does the new engine & gear box weigh compared to the OEM? My 1MZ weight increase is equivalent to the weight of a child and in a very similar position to the original 1zz so I don't notice any difference in handling due to to weight distribution. I also have the battery in the frunk.
Putting your fuel tank in the frunk should help reduce weight distribution problems - if there are any.
I suppose you can get crash resistant tanks can you?
Having one in the froot would bother me not sure how much of the front of the car is designed to crush in an accident.
In no particular order, VW Beetle ( original variety), Hillman Imp and various Porsche's have front mounted fuel tank.
I don't recall many/ any of those crashing and burning.
TBH I was surprised that my 2' s fuel tank is where it is. Couldn't find it in the frunk where I thought it would be.
Yes but they were designed to have a front mounted tank.
Not sure the beetle or the imp had much in the way of modern crash protection.
Cayman and boxster have front fuel tanks but pretty sure they use the front luggage space as a crumple zone.
Wonder what Paul woods did with his MK1 V8?
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 11, 2018, 13:52
I suppose you can get crash resistant tanks can you?
Having one in the froot would bother me not sure how much of the front of the car is designed to crush in an accident.
Alloy tank made up with explosafe foam in it is the way to go. It's what we use in hillclimb and race.
Anyway, with the v8 it will scare everything out of the way! [emoji16][emoji23]🤣
Fuel tank and coolant pipes removed from the tunnel.
Its evident that the 2 has had an off-road excursion at some time. The passenger floor pan has taken the brunt of it with a dent. I'll see if it will straighten up later...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180211/6077c0b01b46d4348bc30b28abd5b52b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180211/ba7cf12740eb451ffba90dc718fc579e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180211/a8622e48f9b58db85e72add3d26d4b56.jpg)
Now I have cleared the services from that area, the next job is to offer the v8 again and mark the bulkhead for cutting...
Funtimes!!
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 11, 2018, 15:09
Yes but they were designed to have a front mounted tank.
Not sure the beetle or the imp had much in the way of modern crash protection.
Cayman and boxster have front fuel tanks but pretty sure they use the front luggage space as a crumple zone.
Wonder what Paul woods did with his MK1 V8?
On Paul's mk1 the tank runs up the tunnel so he shortened it. On ours the tank runs left/right - exactly where the 8 wants to sit - so its got to go in the front.
The porka has a hell of alot of crumple. Think it goes down the blkhd and under the car.
That's quite the dent in the floor. :-o
Quote from: StuC on February 11, 2018, 23:12
That's quite the dent in the floor. :-o
Yes... the coolant breather pipe has been ripped out and bodged too
How happy are you that the chassis is straight?
Quote from: StuC on February 13, 2018, 18:13
How happy are you that the chassis is straight?
Yes it's good. I knew about the damage before and she pulls up very straight and no hint of any wandering on or off the power. Chassis rails front and back are all good. I'll get it aligned of course once it's done.
I tackled the inside of the bulkhead tonight. Clearing the electrics and taking out the Engine brain. The security bolts on the ecu took a hit from the grinder!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/ac237173fe0c8daf2c0df715ed670dbb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/191a10b29340beab611ebbb6bab0007a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/e64a7b2a8b00c4ff88715ca7b86b3286.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/8f9a39c58b4268bc03dc754b57d7db58.jpg)
Then removed the centre console to pull the gear cables clear.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/513f37d95c95058bb2c9ff6798d60b15.jpg)
The engine loom is out and now we have a clear bulkhead ready to mark and cut.
Hoping to do that tomoz.
Then I'll see exactly how much room the ABZ will need....
Watch this space...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/06b7a5a3a355a988f1ac3b5912178185.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/f82c066757cda5f85824d54439753377.jpg)
After setting out the cutting position with a laser, I took the cutting wheel to the cross-member and bulkhead.
The hood is still on as it does help keep the interior clean. I taped the window up to protect the glass from sparks.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/c2ce77271735c2a858d5b6ea577b2825.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/24d407cd8d3d33b6f694beb4e3e2e21c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/64f83b92a4c0aac22bff6e28018e3fb2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/b0246f6ed76e0310ea608320d21cd26c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/27f42b1d190bd282444bf7b89c29ac3f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/d389e32ce3c4571a7719e698a2df6cfc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/d82174e2e0394d0eba9e32643144dcfb.jpg)
Such a flimsy little car when you see it like that hahaha.
Excellent progress. Kudos
Quote from: shnazzle on February 16, 2018, 18:30
Such a flimsy little car when you see it like that hahaha.
Excellent progress. Kudos
Yes - the cross member is paper thin too! I'm not suprised the rear members fail with rust...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/57365babe27d61b4ef15d807096c769c.jpg)
This is what I saw when reading the thread. Made me giggle.
Quote from: StuC on February 16, 2018, 19:07
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/57365babe27d61b4ef15d807096c769c.jpg)
This is what I saw when reading the thread. Made me giggle.
[emoji23]🤣[emoji23]🤣[emoji23]🤣
Need a dimension please guys....
Im looking for the distance from underside of chassis rail - where the rear subframe bolts up to - down to the ground.
I appreciate this may vary a little from car to car but that doesn't matter too much.
TIA :)
How urgent?
Can do it now, but it's dark! ;-)
Well the engine is in its final position.... Well good enough to get some design work done on the engine mounts and front cross member.
It's far enough forward that the Jedi sits behind the rear bodywork now. Is that better Stu? Lol
I think this engine was designed to fit our 2s - the cross member to support it aligns perfectly with the original engine mount positions on the chassis rails! The laser is invaluable here!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/608062766705ebf0a9ffd02ecdf3f4bc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/da5c7fd7204579692dc0ba6e3c9b38b4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/9953b32e6c7209a4f12a84eba9078c71.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/995bc4a547cb228caad43bc57960d3d7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/ba10b3c88b48ae5355d2ee0e3e8f0346.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/33439c0a3555fe485d3869caebd981b6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/eb7b5a624cfdd9a2215497d26118faea.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/7170260e3df196cc1d20a72716b80e78.jpg)
Quote from: StuC on February 16, 2018, 22:37
How urgent?
Can do it now, but it's dark! ;-)
Not to mention Friday night beer! Lol
Daylight sometime is fine mate - cheers
Gives an idea of how big Obiwan is...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/50c80b839700dce08e90d4e1d0eb46b4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/a42f367ba8b77b05d3d1a8d3a0342579.jpg)
Don't forget to leave room for twin Rotrex 8) Absolutely insane, fantastic!
Nice bit of progress there fella. [emoji3][emoji3][emoji3][emoji3]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/e3afcb101e1b00180c1337a0b74a41a3.jpg)
That is a big hole! Just sayin'
How close are you to the bulkhead are you with the front of the engine now?
Quote from: StuC on February 16, 2018, 23:21
Nice bit of progress there fella. [emoji3][emoji3][emoji3][emoji3]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/e3afcb101e1b00180c1337a0b74a41a3.jpg)
That is a big hole! Just sayin'
How close are you to the bulkhead are you with the front of the engine now?
Cambelt covers go thru the position of where bulkhead was and into cabin area by about 30mm. It's not massively intrusive at all but I'm going to leave plenty of room so I'll be able to change cambelt in future without dropping the engine.
It is well worth chopping it out I think - fabricating another bulkhead will be easy enough and it will all be hidden by the oem storage compartment doors
Hope you're going to get some good heat insulation in whatever bulkhead you make :) Sh1t go'n git HOT
Quote from: shnazzle on February 17, 2018, 08:43
Hope you're going to get some good heat insulation in whatever bulkhead you make :) Sh1t go'n git HOT
I was just going to post something very similar to this. You are probably not going to need a heater!
Making fantastic progress on this, I fully expect to see it at Ding Day now.
Cheers guys...
I am going to create enough airgap between firewall and engine to get a good airflow through there - probably fit an air scoop down there to help the flow too.
And insulate as well!
Quote from: 8thumpers on February 16, 2018, 20:41
Need a dimension please guys....
Im looking for the distance from underside of chassis rail - where the rear subframe bolts up to - down to the ground.
I appreciate this may vary a little from car to car but that doesn't matter too much.
TIA :)
Ok, had a stab at this earlier...
LeftHand Side
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/dac7a55a5c675ff0a7f0a9f818d2453d.jpg)
Dimension to floor 352mm, see below.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/83db8afb94e0e359c7a140432b7bc0e6.jpg)
RHS
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/4acc9e8cc90f4dad71d4e673193557c0.jpg)
Dimension to floor 357mm, see below.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/a1e0cf5eae49e116ecc3944635b255f9.jpg)
Ground is level with stock shocks which were changed this time last year, for reference.
Hope that helps Otto. [emoji3]
Quote from: StuC on February 17, 2018, 21:43
Quote from: 8thumpers on February 16, 2018, 20:41
Need a dimension please guys....
Im looking for the distance from underside of chassis rail - where the rear subframe bolts up to - down to the ground.
I appreciate this may vary a little from car to car but that doesn't matter too much.
TIA :)
Ok, had a stab at this earlier...
LeftHand Side
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/dac7a55a5c675ff0a7f0a9f818d2453d.jpg)
Dimension to floor 352mm, see below.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/83db8afb94e0e359c7a140432b7bc0e6.jpg)
RHS
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/4acc9e8cc90f4dad71d4e673193557c0.jpg)
Dimension to floor 357mm, see below.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/a1e0cf5eae49e116ecc3944635b255f9.jpg)
Ground is level with stock shocks which were changed this time last year, for reference.
Hope that helps Otto. [emoji3]
That is fantastic. Cheers mate!
Nice one Stu
@shnazzle (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18356) Any excuse to get Banana into other people's threads. 😉
Having worked to Stu's dimensions, I have determined the lowest part of the Engine is 138mm from the ground - the chassis rails under the seats are exactly the same.
Looks like I have finalised the height of the engine! Cheers Stu :)
Good news. Best to avoid those pillow speed humps all the same!!
Which component is the lowest point! Bell housing?
Quote from: StuC on February 18, 2018, 01:04
Good news. Best to avoid those pillow speed humps all the same!!
Which component is the lowest point! Bell housing?
Nearly, the casting on engine is just lower than the gearbox bellhousing and level with the sump bottom. I may just put a sump guard on it
Won't this engine be heavier than Stu's? And so lower?
Last night was spent doing design Work on engine mounts, gear selector and hub carrier.
The big issue with engine cross member is how to fit it so it can be removed downwards to drop the Engine and still provide enough strength by hanging it on top of the chassis rails - a la oem installation.
I have come up with making it in three pieces that bolt together. The lower central section will unbolt from the 2 side pieces and then it can all drop out while the Engine is suspended from above.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180218/012b07eae1eedd917d4cd32f6b147919.jpg)
@jonbill (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=23089)
I think that will have some bearing on the overall height. Especially with any extra bracing/powertrain support that's needed.
What suspension are you planning on running? Coilovers would prolly give you some needed adjustability.
Quote from: jonbill on February 18, 2018, 09:29
Won't this engine be heavier than Stu's? And so lower?
I can adjust ride height with the coilovers so shouldn't be a problem [emoji106]
Quote from: StuC on February 18, 2018, 09:38
@jonbill (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=23089)
I think that will have some bearing on the overall height. Especially with any extra bracing/powertrain support that's needed.
What suspension are you planning on running? Coilovers would prolly give you some needed adjustability.
Took the words right out of my thumbs! Lol
See first pics at start of thread for coilovers. MEISTER R
Quote from: 8thumpers on February 18, 2018, 09:37
Last night was spent doing design Work on engine mounts, gear selector and hub carrier.
The big issue with engine cross member is how to fit it so it can be removed downwards to drop the Engine and still provide enough strength by hanging it on top of the chassis rails - a la oem installation.
I have come up with making it in three pieces that bolt together. The lower central section will unbolt from the 2 side pieces and then it can all drop out while the Engine is suspended from above.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180218/012b07eae1eedd917d4cd32f6b147919.jpg)
Are the engine mounts going to come from this structure too?
Quote from: StuC on February 18, 2018, 10:08
Quote from: 8thumpers on February 18, 2018, 09:37
Last night was spent doing design Work on engine mounts, gear selector and hub carrier.
The big issue with engine cross member is how to fit it so it can be removed downwards to drop the Engine and still provide enough strength by hanging it on top of the chassis rails - a la oem installation.
I have come up with making it in three pieces that bolt together. The lower central section will unbolt from the 2 side pieces and then it can all drop out while the Engine is suspended from above.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180218/012b07eae1eedd917d4cd32f6b147919.jpg)
Are the engine mounts going to come from this structure too?
Yes once it's offered up I can get some correct lengths back to the block - the mounts will be tube welded onto this frame with a urethane bush back to a plate bolted onto the block
I guess my initial concern is the foot print onto the chassis rail. 30mm x 3mm is not a lot. Is there a reason you have chosen 3mm plate?
Would you be looking to mount the engine mounts off the side sections or the bottom section?
I ask as the centre section is less than 400mm wide and I'd imagine the sump is prolly 200mm wide. Doesn't leave a lot of space to get up the side of the engine.
Can you take a photo showing the mounting point to the block versus the chassis rail? To gauge width and relative heights? (If you don't mind that is) ;-)
Quote from: StuC on February 18, 2018, 12:44
I guess my initial concern is the foot print onto the chassis rail. 30mm x 3mm is not a lot. Is there a reason you have chosen 3mm plate?
Would you be looking to mount the engine mounts off the side sections or the bottom section?
I ask as the centre section is less than 400mm wide and I'd imagine the sump is prolly 200mm wide. Doesn't leave a lot of space to get up the side of the engine.
Can you take a photo showing the mounting point to the block versus the chassis rail? To gauge width and relative heights? (If you don't mind that is) ;-)
The drawing doesn't tell the whole story...
The 3mm angled plate will bolt sideways AND downwards into the chassis rail - so it's not just relying on the vertical resistance of the plate.
I think I may go to 4mm with it tho....
It's not too bad for space up the side and a balance between clearing the manifolds and still maintaining strength by having an angle. The engine V is not as tight as the rail angle so does give room.
I'll mock up a rail and get a pic..
The bulkhead chassis cross member is made and temp fitted to check for size.
This is to replace the strength taken out when I chopped out the bulkhead and cross member behind the fueltank. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180221/063d9e3663e1d16f2f88b019e7f2f059.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180221/ded10f7f1a4736e3a4a59b89f94a1171.jpg)
Is that going to be tied into the body in other places too?
I also mocked up the engine support cross member out of plywood.
The design is pretty much spot on. I will be using 4mm chassis mounting plates instead of the original 3mm.
I also need to replicate the left hand oem chassis box, on the right side.
I'll get this member made in tube and then finalise the dimensions of the engine mounts which will be mounted off it.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180221/97fb384e52c0c13a4cea8b3ac6230a9f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180221/f50f66f3081843eeb882d9d56d938e5b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180221/3f12ab6255c6114089014b100052fc20.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180221/c3c76f98cd6a1d0ac24eeb21b36bfb9c.jpg)
Quote from: StuC on February 21, 2018, 23:33
Is that going to be tied into the body in other places too?
Yes, I'll build the new bulkhead off it and also run it into the side of the chassis under the cills. The floor will be welded to it too.
Very interesting thread thumpers! now you are into fabrication stage you might find a use for Rivet Nuts these can be inserted into eng/chassis rails without access to the inside of the box they come in all sizes (see web) we used them on production line when customer req a 12 gallon tank never heard of a fuel tank falling off cheers greybeardgt
Quote from: greybeardgt on February 22, 2018, 14:28
Very interesting thread thumpers! now you are into fabrication stage you might find a use for Rivet Nuts these can be inserted into eng/chassis rails without access to the inside of the box they come in all sizes (see web) we used them on production line when customer req a 12 gallon tank never heard of a fuel tank falling off cheers greybeardgt
My frunk plastics are rivnutted on, easier than the clips.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: greybeardgt on February 22, 2018, 14:28
Very interesting thread thumpers! now you are into fabrication stage you might find a use for Rivet Nuts these can be inserted into eng/chassis rails without access to the inside of the box they come in all sizes (see web) we used them on production line when customer req a 12 gallon tank never heard of a fuel tank falling off cheers greybeardgt
Good shout. We use them on body panels at JLR too.
Rivnuts: Yes a great invention - I used them a lot when I built my MK Indy Fireblade a few years back.
Cheers guys!
Starter motor fun:
When I bought the engine and Jedi box from Paul Woods, he had already done a lot of the r&d on mating the two together. The original starter is mounted on the bellhousing for the v8 in the traditional position. On the Jedi box it is mounted alongside the engine block. Subsequently some block casting material has to be removed from this area to give clearance to the starter.
The starter that came with the gearbox is for a 2ltr diesel 4 cylinder. No matter what I did it won't fit! The mounting lug is the wrong side of the solenoid - see yellow circle.
Suddenly had a brainwave.... this gearbox is also fitted to v6 engines and I thought I had seen a picture with the solenoid on the other side of the lug, which pushes it away from the V..... A quick check on the famous auction site and presto!
Replacement starter ordered... Fingers crossed....
I need this in place before I can determine the engine mounts. Another story...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/2ecd2cddf3b720cda02e14e5b5b5acd8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/f03ee71c68ab43c377a2c9fc39c62899.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/92370b9ca4a9c9d49b68323f226218a2.jpg)
Rear hub:
The discs came for the rear hubs this week - now I can see exactly how much space I will have when the hub carriers is fabricated. There was concern that the carrier would interfere with the disc shoulder and/or the hub bolts.
I can now see we have plenty of space .
Calipers may be more of an issue... mr2 ones won't fit these discs... 3rd party solution required...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/1c42f3d98f4bd28142bc50e3f40b0d86.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/494fc16a30b891da7759703630817af4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/5856c19e8d8e62c4193c210b03abd789.jpg)
Spent the ice cold weather this evening designing the gear linkage. Cables out - Rod in! Should give a nice tight feel..... I hope!
Also had notice that the starter is ready to collect from A R Gos and sons.
Well that is a major step forward... the v6 starter bolts straight on and the solenoid fits a treat!
If this had not worked then the whole project was in the balance....
Happy Days!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180302/6341b679ca5c828dd644637a6e52534f.jpg)
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) Mmmmmm cosy. 😀
This is the v8 oil filter and water cooled housing.... it is huge and had to go!
I have an oil take off plate on order from 034 in the states, which will give me a remote filter housing in a more accessible location [emoji4](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180302/54588d4a3adf893b3fc0ce245a638674.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180302/e6fe33cca781e83b97330e81b167e8fd.jpg)
Anoyher standard dimension request please...
How much ground clearance is there from lowest point of transmission/subframe to the road on your 2?
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) I have the time to check today if only....
A. It wasn't snowing.
B. Banana was on my drive.
Quote from: StuC on March 17, 2018, 10:27
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) I have the time to check today if only....
A. It wasn't snowing.
B. Banana was on my drive.
Yikes x 2! Lol
Prolly won't have Banana back until next weekend either.
I am guessing you'd like the measurement before then? In order to keep your progress for an attendance at Ding Day.
Quote from: StuC on March 17, 2018, 10:32
Prolly won't have Banana back until next weekend either.
I am guessing you'd like the measurement before then? In order to keep your progress for an attendance at Ding Day.
Well I'd love to get some wheels on it by then for sure... not sure it will be on the road but if mobile I'll trailer it up to show everyone how it's going...
Cheers Stu much appreciated.
My 034 ABZ oil cooler takeoff plate arrived a few days ago. It's a nice piece of cnc and rids the engine of the hideous factory cooler.
I need to drill and tap a small hole in the block for the right hand bolt but that can be done next time the engine comes out.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/9d34223bc5f79332717886a0ba63d7ec.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/a122e258ce55bb6fa673aebed4b59c4b.jpg)
Quote from: 8thumpers on March 17, 2018, 18:17
My 034 ABZ oil cooler takeoff plate arrived a few days ago. It's a nice piece of cnc and rids the engine of the hideous factory cooler.
I need to drill and tap a small hole in the block for the right hand bolt but that can be done next time the engine comes out.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/9d34223bc5f79332717886a0ba63d7ec.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/a122e258ce55bb6fa673aebed4b59c4b.jpg)
That's a lovely piece of work there but isn't there a port missing?
In, out, shake it all about...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 17, 2018, 18:19
Quote from: 8thumpers on March 17, 2018, 18:17
My 034 ABZ oil cooler takeoff plate arrived a few days ago. It's a nice piece of cnc and rids the engine of the hideous factory cooler.
I need to drill and tap a small hole in the block for the right hand bolt but that can be done next time the engine comes out.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/9d34223bc5f79332717886a0ba63d7ec.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/a122e258ce55bb6fa673aebed4b59c4b.jpg)
That's a lovely piece of work there but isn't there a port missing?
In, out, shake it all about...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'll do the hokey cokey when its finished for sure!! Lol
Quote from: 8thumpers on March 17, 2018, 18:28
Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 17, 2018, 18:19
Quote from: 8thumpers on March 17, 2018, 18:17
My 034 ABZ oil cooler takeoff plate arrived a few days ago. It's a nice piece of cnc and rids the engine of the hideous factory cooler.
I need to drill and tap a small hole in the block for the right hand bolt but that can be done next time the engine comes out.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/9d34223bc5f79332717886a0ba63d7ec.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180317/a122e258ce55bb6fa673aebed4b59c4b.jpg)
That's a lovely piece of work there but isn't there a port missing?
In, out, shake it all about...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'll do the hokey cokey when its finished for sure!! Lol
[emoji23]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 17, 2018, 18:19
That's a lovely piece of work there but isn't there a port missing?
In, out, shake it all about...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am glad that at least someone else is at my level of mechanical knowledge.
Keep up the good work (both of you).
After some measuring and CAD work I have replicated the subframe design in plywood.
This enables me to check for clearance before getting it fabricated in 50x50 steel.
When it's bolted up I can determine the suspension pickup points.
All arms will be rose jointed to allow for setting up the geometry when its together....(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/be0d350bff694eb07bf596a63a462bc4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/11e5573a83abb84dd5d4411a72077d41.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/7ca32e962f3eff86dae05612fdf33d84.jpg)
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) nice bit of progress again. I still dont have my car back to get your measurement.
Are you going to use the mount right at the end of the box? It looks a long way from any structure that you might have in that area. :o
I think I will get one from the back mount but there is also this collection of 3 holes that I'll get a mount from too. The drivers side has a similar arrangement but 2 holes.
With these and the two onto the block, plus one at the front, I'll have six mounts from the engine and 'box which will be adequate I'm sure.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/d72698afb5246e817b893f407cc3d69b.jpg)
I've just adjusted the gearbox height which wasn't quite level in the chassis. In short I have raised the back of the box which results in the final subframe-to-road clearance of 125mm. A bit more than I expected tbf
Just thinking out loud. You should be able to calculate backwards from my previous measurements, as hey were to the subframe mount. This is only viable of course if you still have your subframe. ;)
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672)
Quote from: StuC on March 19, 2018, 18:06
Just thinking out loud. You should be able to calculate backwards from my previous measurements, as hey were to the subframe mount. This is only viable of course if you still have your subframe. ;)
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672)
Yeah I did do that and have made the decision to junk all standard suspension arms in favour of rose joints so that gives me some flexibility in dimensions.
Cheers mate.
I hope that gives you enough wiggle room. :)
That looks like its going to sit pretty low?
@tomaky (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=17187) Not as low as your standards though mate, so it will still run OK.
Quote from: StuC on March 23, 2018, 14:14
@tomaky (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=17187) Not as low as your standards though mate, so it will still run OK.
Harsh! But probably fair...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: tomaky on March 23, 2018, 12:04
That looks like its going to sit pretty low?
On a technical note.. I will have 125mm ground clearance so should be ok :)
Should be fine :)
Picked up some Audi wheels on FleaBay today for £100... only need two for the rear at mo, but as they are similar to the 2 I couldn't resist!
Also sorted a comfy garage seat and cracked a beer open!
It's not all about getting oily! [emoji23]🤣(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180324/e40ce29d314962d6141ce2b394cc5fa9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180324/b1d1678dd9c3c73ecd340742e8b49ede.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180324/7eb7b9dbc0fdfa2fe8732b02cdd79c3a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180324/14c9151613861f3664d7d721d6fa6194.jpg)
Re-fibreglassed the garage roof today in the sunshine. No more leaks!!
Also, my rose-joints arrived for the suspension arms [emoji106]
The first trial fitting of the engine mount x-member. I'm pleased with the result, it will put a lot of cross strength back into the chassis.
Next job is to get the mounts themselves designed and fitted to it....(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180329/dc5678126d68c0ead3255606feae28fc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180329/37d7558c668a13da7f9ff27198cc8340.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180329/7057d37068ac105fff663d70b43fb73b.jpg)
The other part that FleaBay gave up was an A6 gear shift linkage. This mates directly to our Jedi box.
I think with some minor engineering I can utilise it quite nicely.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180329/394cee84892d769d28fe28081143061d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180329/2ff41cbe3c91e54f8a609d0253321f31.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180329/5bca63c575af6f7d8ff7f7d24c549de7.jpg)
The Audi shifter is attached to its original gearbox selector and is so simple. A direct rod that rotates slightly to cross the gate and pulls back and forth to select gears.
I thought I'd see if the Audi gearstick mechanism could be used at all...
It looks like it will almost drop right in place - needs a small bracket or two to locate it but it even fits inside the 2 tunnel trim!
Sometimes things just happen right! [emoji3][emoji4][emoji4][emoji4][emoji41](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/2c9b1a319f5d720b112314db75a30116.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/a5e4bac9b25959fefba56da85ac554e4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/c2a8b77537724751a4e6782933ce276b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/d1e90aeef9070d4b3d866a96b83f5832.jpg)
What are you planning for subframe? I'd understood that gearbox mount was part of subframe. Didn't realise it was not.
Nice progress, especially to see the "engine cradle" in place.
Looks like the route for the gearshift is going to be "interesting". ;)
Quote from: MrT on March 30, 2018, 14:30
What are you planning for subframe? I'd understood that gearbox mount was part of subframe. Didn't realise it was not.
Rear subframe is independent to engine mount subframe. Rear one will support gearbox and all the suspension pickup points too.
Currently the engine is supported on wooden blocks...
Quote from: StuC on March 30, 2018, 15:23
Nice progress, especially to see the "engine cradle" in place.
Looks like the route for the gearshift is going to be "interesting". ;)
Yeah it should pass up the side of the engine and route between the alternator and block via some small UJs....
Oh ok, sorry. I'm confusing the 2 subframes. You will need some sort of transverse torque brace across the top of the engine, otherwise I'd worry about the block mounts just twisting that engine subframe in half.
But making great progress.
Quote from: MrT on March 30, 2018, 23:05
Oh ok, sorry. I'm confusing the 2 subframes. You will need some sort of transverse torque brace across the top of the engine, otherwise I'd worry about the block mounts just twisting that engine subframe in half.
But making great progress.
Thanx :)
The Audi has an offset torque mount at the front to deal with the twisting ... I'll get a pic later....
Currently taking a week off in sunny Cornwall.... plenty of time to order those parts I need for gearchange and suspension arms! [emoji6]
This build it utterly mental!! Good work, I'm loving it!
Quote from: BahnStormer on April 8, 2018, 12:40
This build it utterly mental!! Good work, I'm loving it!
That's me! Mad as a box of cranks!
Cheers!
A few parts arrived this week..
UJs for the gear linkage complete with correct size tube.
PU engine and gearbox mounts - for Landrover and Capri!
The threaded inserts for the Spherical joints. These will be welded into tube to fabricate the suspension arms.
Automotion Components do some great deals on stuff like this - well worth getting one of their free catalogues!
Oh, and I also got my £56 mig working with little trouble - Fleabay Bargain!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180414/7d71215530b50ed825735fc07282d381.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180414/bb29535a80d574d1995703ac3d1b1155.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180414/d08e2c516f6ba2df576e470828a6f56f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180414/d5c62a783ce71fb83550464c6b2b2dc7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180414/d24324f48cf782e7858af72ef01455a8.jpg)
A bit of an update so you know it's still going on....
Finally got the rear subframe fabricated and offered up.
Next job is to finalise the pu gearbox and engine mount positions.
I'll also get the suspension arm positions and weld on the brackets to locate them on the subframe.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/21f51861ed5234333af193efc75a8284.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/bd4344254e6372a3c24a9b084d3c67e1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/2272f2b5245e50416c0fbf7c963a7ce0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/fa0088668708a4e38ec0ea41e9f15c7c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/bb5b55052d2f131dd6b366a2fdef5162.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180512/ba4064635445284503d5305215d1765f.jpg)
That is a big step fella. Well done.
Are you going to brace the corner points of the subframe?
That subframe shouldn't need any bracing given the size of the tubing. Very well engineered. Only thing I'd suggest is capping the top mount tubes, but it might cause an issue for powder coating. You could drill a breather hole in the crush tubes before capping it though.
Nice work.
Cheers guys. I don't think it will be going anywhere without bracing tbh.
I may just put plastic caps in the tube ends after powder coat.
When you compare it to the pressed oem Toyota item it's damn strong!
Nice welding, I must get practiceing
To keep things simple I have gone over to the original Audi front hubs for use on the rear end.
I had planned to fabricate a steel hub-carrier but it's proving tricky.
Bizarrely, the Audi hub carrier is very similar to the MR2 OEM, albeit drop forged in ally.
The two side by side show the same sort of pickup points they both have.
I need to convert the upper audi leg to take the 2's coil-over leg and fit some brackets in the lower ball joint tapers to accept the rose-joints.
The major change I have made is swap the Audi hub from side to side so that the steering track rod end is now at the back a-la the mr2 track control arm.
I've tried, but realistically I won't be trailering the car to Ding Day as planned...
Sorry guys! [emoji53][emoji54](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180603/112319ba12928defb9dddac5adc2bd60.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180603/ec21b703a439935162ed3dfb3d332914.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180603/51c3a4ca7861fdbafe6951f4afd75f62.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180603/8441975eea9a0911ff117c3ad56af8c7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180603/3ca0c87c0478d6946f2f9bb050d16c4f.jpg)
Quote from: 8thumpers on June 3, 2018, 22:28
I've tried, but realistically I won't be trailering the car to Ding Day as planned...
Sorry guys! [emoji53][emoji54]
:'( :'( :( :( :'(
Your efforts to this point have shown a great level of commitment and enthusiasm. Which is to be applauded!! I, for one, was willing you to hit your DD target.
Next year though.... we are expecting a running car to come roaring into the car park!!! 8) ;)
I hope you'll still attend DD :)
Hey 8thumpers
Could you not get larger bearings for the 2hub and fit the Audi shaft to it? Alternatively, the bearing carrier bolts to the study hub so if you jigged up the 2 hub (particularly strut mount if the others might change due to the track width) and jig the Audi hub face then 'simply' plate up between the points to build the hub/s.
I know I over simplify the steps but that's the gist of it and sounds like what you planned to do. Personally I want to caution you from going the route you are with those hubs. If you insist though, the strut mount seems like the only reasonable part of your plan provided the ally of the hub is good density and well cast which I imagine it is. I regret saying it but from there I'd change the subframe and work out new geometry using the Audi mount points and original suspension joints, preferably link the trailing arm to the transverse arm rather than the hub like early MacPherson suspension on fords and Vauxhalls etc. That would allow for the correct trailing arm geometry of the original suspension but give you the wider track of the study drive shafts too, or anything in between with shorter axles.
I hope all that makes sense and doesn't just sound like loads of extra work. I'd hate to see iffy suspension ruin your build or worse cause an accident and harm to anybody.
And forgive me if I'm stepping on your toes. Love your build and want to see it become a huge success.
Yes Stu, I'll come over sat afternoon :)
Quote from: StuC on June 3, 2018, 23:47
Quote from: 8thumpers on June 3, 2018, 22:28
I've tried, but realistically I won't be trailering the car to Ding Day as planned...
Sorry guys! [emoji53][emoji54]
:'( :'( :( :( :'(
Your efforts to this point have shown a great level of commitment and enthusiasm. Which is to be applauded!! I, for one, was willing you to hit your DD target.
Next year though.... we are expecting a running car to come roaring into the car park!!! 8) ;)
I hope you'll still attend DD :)
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) good stuff. See you there. :)
Spurred on by Ding Day....
Had to remove a drive shaft bolt from one of the Audi hubs. Someone had previously had a go and rounded it off.
Found a spare 14mm socket and welded it into the rounded hole, then dropped the breaker bar onto it and clamped the disc in the vice... Presto!! Out she came. No doubt the heat helped and as I'm fitting new bearings it wasn't an issue.
Next!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/561b2e56a4e3534e5dc984691e8186a1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/3e2134af5c72352e068482291099eab4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/d611c4fd4c04b0c3b60703546a589694.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/5b433735c62e79b298f04f1eeb6e01f3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/edc58ecb01c40f0ae81e1d87b584f6a7.jpg)
Next up is the conversion of the taper which takes the ball joint to rosejoint.
Started by removing the main ball joint and cutting the taper with threaded end off. The ball joint is junk so that was skipped.
The taper will be welded to the U bracket that the rosejoint will bolt to.
A hole has been drilled in the mounting face so that it can be welded from the top as well as around the base. It wants to be slightly offset from centre to aid clearance to the hub carrier.
The main ball joint will have a similar U bracket welded onto a 42mm od tube which will clamp in - then both fitted back in original positions to work out the suspension arm lengths.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/6bb52a32ee810e7125dba81ece161984.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/cb567b211e0cc037129e07287b2cc4a1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/1fd6866fa4c1e4b4c14e1ce153f2047a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/7d4db45ea47fd94a322ef4289e362506.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/9097589ca5bc0c710e6890afc8af142c.jpg)
Hi 8thumpers
What's the reason for converting to the rose joint please? is it considerably stronger? And then isn't the taper u bracket going to become the weak link? Unless you anneal and quench the joint after welding to strengthen the weld of course.
Just curious as it seems a lot of work and compromised itself. But I don't really know.
Thanks
Cant you just use a tapered bolt, and mount the rosejoint directly? no need for the bracket, and a stronger solution.
Like the pins in the lower middle in this picture:
http://wilhelmraceworks.com/suspension-geometry-kit
BTW: I just love your way of seeing the solutions, and not problems! like this:
Bizarrely, the Audi hub carrier is very similar to the MR2 OEM, albeit drop forged in ally.
Only a true fabricator can see the similarities of these parts:-)!!!
It's the flexibility if adjustment that is required. The hubs will not be in a perfect machined position so I can get the alignment sorted with the rose joints quite simply.
Oil quenching may well be a good idea.
The brackets are used a lot on modified race suspension so should be ok.
Regular inspection will be necessary on all the suspension for sure!
Quote from: MrT on June 11, 2018, 21:18
Hi 8thumpers
What's the reason for converting to the rose joint please? is it considerably stronger? And then isn't the taper u bracket going to become the weak link? Unless you anneal and quench the joint after welding to strengthen the weld of course.
Just curious as it seems a lot of work and compromised itself. But I don't really know.
Thanks
Tapered bolt would be another solution but I need the rose axis to be perpendicular to the taper bolt direction in order to get decent articulation and less wear on the bearing.
Be nice to see some British firms offering these US types of suspension mods....
Quote from: toyofan on June 11, 2018, 21:38
Cant you just use a tapered bolt, and mount the rosejoint directly? no need for the bracket, and a stronger solution.
Like the pins in the lower middle in this picture:
http://wilhelmraceworks.com/suspension-geometry-kit
BTW: I just love your way of seeing the solutions, and not problems! like this:
Bizarrely, the Audi hub carrier is very similar to the MR2 OEM, albeit drop forged in ally.
Only a true fabricator can see the similarities of these parts:-)!!!
Collected a pile of plasma cut plates from my mate today....
Next job is to fabricate them into the engine mounts!
After 5hrs messing about with the mounts and re-cutting some, I finally have a design I'm happy with. I'll post some pics this week all being well, once they are welded.
Just need the subframe back on to sort the suspension arms...
Good stuff!
What's the likelihood of your car making it to shinding day??
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Quote from: jvanzyl on June 17, 2018, 06:42
Good stuff!
What's the likelihood of your car making it to shinding day??
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Ive not heard of that....? Where and when?
It's like a mini ding day... Last year was great as we did dents and had professional headlight Restoration...
I'm assuming August at some point..
It'll be in Cholsey, South Oxfordshire, OX10 9PS .
Simon (bigbear) runs it...
Where are you again?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Quote from: jvanzyl on June 17, 2018, 08:10
It's like a mini ding day... Last year was great as we did dents and had professional headlight Restoration...
I'm assuming August at some point..
It'll be in Cholsey, South Oxfordshire, OX10 9PS .
Simon (bigbear) runs it...
Where are you again?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Shropshire - about 2 hrs away.
Car wont be on road by then .....
A quick update on the rear hubs.
Stripped them down so that they can be mounted in the mill.
The aim is to get the original audi leg shaved to the correct width, to fit in the bottom of the coil-over shock.
The threaded bar with nuts on is fixed thru a sacrificial part of the alloy leg - purely for milling location stability purposes. That piece will be cut off at a later date once everything is shaved.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/2cac28323dffcc19efaa972870c1ed85.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/db8a99343cbb4e10668000fa022f65fc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/91084ed49f23b4f8a348dc88c6286f22.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/6d8ebbba49762b2a3be6024137f7aa25.jpg)
Initial milling.
Once the correct angle of the suspension leg is determined then it will have some build-up added around the position of the bottom bolt hole.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/9219d2b26415646453957de2ef612a0e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/1c43dc90aaea304752e4faefa3b8ce32.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/16317e007c4b7b27fab4934432485e11.jpg)
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) you have some serious machinery there, but then 8 into the space for 4 is pretty serious business. I'm glad to see that you have, or access, to some suitable kit.
Well a hacksaw and angle grinder just won't do! Lol
Quote from: Joesson on June 25, 2018, 21:00
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) you have some serious machinery there, but then 8 into the space for 4 is pretty serious business. I'm glad to see that you have, or access, to some suitable kit.
Quote from: 8thumpers on June 25, 2018, 21:54
Well a hacksaw and angle grinder just won't do! LolQuote from: Joesson on June 25, 2018, 21:00
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) you have some serious machinery there, but then 8 into the space for 4 is pretty serious business. I'm glad to see that you have, or access, to some suitable kit.
I think we should have had a day trip out to yours at Ding Day!! 8)
I had a quick look at the dipstick tonight.
The gear selector shaft has to go behind the engine mount plate and it's path was blocked by the dipstick tube.
You can see it here located in the red polybush guide.
A quick removal and a new bend or two later... Presto! A clear run for the shaft.
All the little jobs add up to big steps!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/864b5bbf2d46b875ac0859cb997a4e51.jpg)
At the Office end the Audi gear lever housing has had a couple of brackets made to locate it into the MR2 mounting holes.
These holes are just 2mm out of line between the two shift cages - I have been lucky here! I like it when things pretty much fit!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/677fc24bb0e5d9ee5ce68cc019c1ef73.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180625/767177e2828b06c8ce207aa2c9a551f2.jpg)
I know it sounds mad but I am suprised how much room there is around the engine bay.... I think it will be very easy to get to most components when it's all done - probably easier than the original installation!
While on the topic of gear shaft routing...
At the front of the engine I'll have to fabricate an alternator bracket, which will incorporate a second shaft support guide...
Have a look at a couple of videos on utube here
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC90iDQWCgW6kTBwefKjwNZQ
Engine x member and mounts finally in their correct positions.
I'll clean them up and tac them in place before stripping down again and tig welding.
The engine mount plates will eventually have bolts in place of the threaded bar, which is great for determining length and position. The rear of the plate will have 4mm wall tube spacer back to the block.
I was very keen to get 3# bolts to the engine for triangulation reasons.
The pu mounts themselves are sold as Capri, or Landrover items. They looked about right.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180628/19fbdd0bb8dae43905ad0f7399ab6c8a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180628/efd8a0b5e49613e258069768219d022c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180628/ba443b6b45c9cb4a41ff75161cb9f759.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180628/8ae01e1b01e911c720710cb82c9459a0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180628/d357c4acef28d6ede5bfd9be4e8b89ba.jpg)
The other hub was machined last night...
Still needs building up with weld before final machining to correct shape to fit in the coil over leg.
The process is similar to how they re-profile camshafts.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180628/d68c0f26dfecfa77be8307061041e067.jpg)
Something satisfying about a big pile of swarf and a shiny machined surface. :)
So in terms of the tools that you DONT have... what's on the wish list??
Quote from: jvanzyl on June 29, 2018, 08:45
So in terms of the tools that you DONT have... what's on the wish list??
A post lift... single or 2...
I have access to some good people with some good equipment. It's not what you own, but who you know!
We all need a 2 post lift at home! Wish I had power in my lockup garage, I'd have a scissor lift in there for sure. Friend of mine had a manual scissor lift that was operated by a drill so big battery drill would run it up and down, almost ideal!
A quick update on those modified ball joints I cut up to take a rose joint...
They have been TIG welded and I'm pretty pleased with the end result - a strong connection.
I'll keep an eye on this when it's in use and see if it needs modifying with r&d.
Time will tell.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/2dc7dc24a1701a597aab4c88986ec4df.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/ca27e2c857c059a02a866f5deabcfbcf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/9803290153db55026d5c99246e0c0d7a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/7b51f68df7bb8f4a3eccdaa7d4125b16.jpg)
To give you guys an idea of the rear hub carrier work, I have positioned the offside hub in it's approximate place.
The new bearing and hub fits perfectly as anticipated. I have zippied the carrier leg to the bottom of the coil-over but it's not a million miles away from the fitting position.
The great thing with the MiesterR shocks is the ability to adjust the ride height independently to the spring seat. This means that in my conversion, I don't have to worry about critical vertical positions of the shock hole bolts thru the carrier leg.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/454c38a37eeb6025490dd1e94051787f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/bd4c4f9b10ecff2eede645111821b282.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/f82950ce81c0ad258219bf7f3ed94907.jpg)
The last job I've done tonight is fabricating the gearbox mounts. The nearside one is tacked up and ready for tig welding.
The top of the U bracket will be useful when it comes to fitting the gear link guide.
It's really not far off supporting the whole engine/gearbox on the x members....(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/d9eab2abb84440151b6420bbd9bb47a5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/2a2eba0164d5797f241305c7fb1e4294.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/58373cc045167a974c89f5418d2fd042.jpg)
It's so close!!!
How hard do you think it would be to reproduce all the bits you've made for another person who wanted to make the conversion?
Quote from: jvanzyl on June 30, 2018, 00:29
It's so close!!!
How hard do you think it would be to reproduce all the bits you've made for another person who wanted to make the conversion?
Quite simple... most are on CAD
If there is demand then I'd make a kit for sure.
Quote from: 8thumpers on June 30, 2018, 08:10
Quote from: jvanzyl on June 30, 2018, 00:29
It's so close!!!
How hard do you think it would be to reproduce all the bits you've made for another person who wanted to make the conversion?
Quite simple... most are on CAD
If there is demand then I'd make a kit for sure.
And the internet collectively drops what they're doing and starts to Google 4.2 Audi v8's!!!
It would be amazing for a kit to be made....
Coming together nicely.
Lovin the dedication you are still showing to get it finished. :)
Big milestone to get the power train self supporting and the suspension sorted.
Quote from: 8thumpers on June 29, 2018, 23:09
A quick update on those modified ball joints I cut up to take a rose joint...
They have been TIG welded and I'm pretty pleased with the end result - a strong connection.
I'll keep an eye on this when it's in use and see if it needs modifying with r&d.
Time will tell.
Are they welded inside the bracket area in that last pic? That was my only recommendation but as you said you have plenty experience doing these so are on top of it ;)
Quote from: 8thumpers on June 29, 2018, 23:16
To give you guys an idea of the rear hub carrier work, I have positioned the offside hub in it's approximate place.
The new bearing and hub fits perfectly as anticipated. I have zippied the carrier leg to the bottom of the coil-over but it's not a million miles away from the fitting position.
The great thing with the MiesterR shocks is the ability to adjust the ride height independently to the spring seat. This means that in my conversion, I don't have to worry about critical vertical positions of the shock hole bolts thru the carrier leg.
Agreed but looking at your photo position if it's nearly right you're going to risk impinging on spring preload adjustment range. Also, not wanting to mod the new damper parts, the adjustable lower section of the shock with hub bracket looks quite long, you could shorten that to give more height to the spring seat collars and have room you need. And they appear to be threaded right through so only need shortening on top and cut square which a man with your tools could do in no time.
Looking good so far.
Quote from: 8thumpers on June 29, 2018, 23:20
The last job I've done tonight is fabricating the gearbox mounts. The nearside one is tacked up and ready for tig welding.
The top of the U bracket will be useful when it comes to fitting the gear link guide.
It's really not far off supporting the whole engine/gearbox on the x members....
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/58373cc045167a974c89f5418d2fd042.jpg)
I take it you aren't using this rear mount on the gearbox in the right of the photo? Will the motor mounts be able to resist torque or have you not fabricated a torque arm for the motor yet? I thought of connecting at the strut brace central bolting points and even integrated into the strut brace.
That hulking great motor just worries me on account of how much more torque it is going to produce compared to any stock or modified MR2 especially since it is now longitudinal not transverse so the chassis is not designed for that level of torque in those directions. Might twist the chassis drag racing/launching... Make for a cool video though.
PS apologies if I'm telling you how to build your own car or suck eggs... Can't silence the engineer within.
Quote from: MrT on June 30, 2018, 12:20
Can't silence the engineer within.
Amen to that!! If you are like me, you just can't switch it off!! (To the annoyance of my wife!!)
Quote from: MrT on June 30, 2018, 12:20
PS apologies if I'm telling you how to build your own car or suck eggs... Can't silence the engineer within.
No not all - I'm always open to advice etc..
Yes I will be using the rear mount too. That will be incorporated into the rear bar that bolts on to the end of the chassis rail.
The torque arrester is offset on the front of the engine. I need to fabricate a mount there when I address the bulkhead. I'll get a pic....
Audi obviously had thought of this as it's their oem mount.
Thought I'd better do a little update...
Made a new cage to support the Audi gearshifter. With minimal fettling the original centre handbrake/gearshift cover will fit over it.
New gear rod is located in a couple of bushes where the old cables passed thru the bulkhead. This will connect to the rear gear rod (via 2 UJs) which goes behind the left engine mount and off to rear linkage.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180804/aa719df79e11c8f144076b2e801e4b2d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180804/eaadfc89e5074003a69d627037a8d556.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180804/57cfd22346555b1e3b9eec9351cfeeec.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180804/2715ce2806e23574a0028643c176750b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180804/548e707fff2823486e1cb4f94f815d4e.jpg)
That seems a long way for a rod linkage. But, you won't be needing many gear changes with all that torque available!
Should be ok... used a lot on gt40 reps etc
It only needs one gear anyway!!!
Quote from: Joesson on August 5, 2018, 10:57
That seems a long way for a rod linkage. But, you won't be needing many gear changes with all that torque available!
Glad you're still making progress. Keep it up.
Quote from: jonbill on August 5, 2018, 12:46
Glad you're still making progress. Keep it up.
Cheers mate
Some great progress mate. Keep up the good work i can almost hear that v8 running ;)
WOW
Spent a night or two converting the old £56 mig to a euro torch. A vast improvement on wire feed and smoothness.
A little late in the night to really test it, but 1st impressions are good!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180815/278cbad30f0f8c17e8820e0496b80d36.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180815/19e199a26dbc55ed913b0738a4b5f052.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180815/aeeb4049f839a8606ccc7967bdd4df0f.jpg)
The first of the hubs had been built up with ally weld on the you.
Next job is to do the milling down to the required size and see how it fits the shock leg...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180905/f12404dac48c5472d2adb30b49027091.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180905/143fc01649f93abe14f539aad22be2b9.jpg)
Well that's coming along well. Are you going to heat treat the hub to relieve and restore strength to the welded section?
Finally got the first hub in the mill.
I'm v impressed with the weld build up.... you can barely see the joint.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180929/1a57b4aaccd9ccff40022bc7acf265e2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180929/cf50272227f6c1f8595b7055ce20b72f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180929/08a5046e7ca92064e321456de41bda37.jpg)
Hold on. Did you build a section of metal using weld?
Is that the equivalent of making car body parts using expanding foam and then trimming it?
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Quote from: shnazzle on September 29, 2018, 17:35
Hold on. Did you build a section of metal using weld?
Is that the equivalent of making car body parts using expanding foam and then trimming it?
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Yes !
it's the same process they use for re-profiling cams.
Well I'll be damned....
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Quote from: 8thumpers on September 29, 2018, 18:59
Quote from: shnazzle on September 29, 2018, 17:35
Hold on. Did you build a section of metal using weld?
Is that the equivalent of making car body parts using expanding foam and then trimming it?
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
Yes !
it's the same process they use for re-profiling cams.
You cannot insert a mind blown gif...
. This NEEDS a mind blown gif to be inserted here!
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Finally got a trial fitting of the 1st rear hub. It looks like it was factory made for the job!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181101/4f9e6b204a2f3208ad048700754e9761.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181101/e8d67110cadbb7a871f9a4ff8353bbb6.jpg)
Ah that all makes sense to me now, I couldn't picture how that hub went before [emoji3526]. Keep up the good work.
Well that was really lucky ;)
Quote from: Joesson on November 2, 2018, 09:46
Well that was really lucky ;)
Sometimes you have to have an eye for it! Lol
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) - From your photos I believe you are milling the ally dry.
Have you had any problem with it sticking to the cutting edge?
Paraffin was the cutting fluid for ally, when I was a miller, but that was a while ago.
Hope your "luck" continues ;)
Quote from: Joesson on November 2, 2018, 22:02
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) - From your photos I believe you are milling the ally dry.
Have you had any problem with it sticking to the cutting edge?
Paraffin was the cutting fluid for ally, when I was a miller, but that was a while ago.
Hope your "luck" continues ;)
Hey
No we did mill it with cutting fluid - applied by hand every so often. Works ok :)
Fingers crossed on the luck!
Quote from: Joesson on November 2, 2018, 22:02
when I was a miller
Aaaaah this was you the Tony..
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) keep going fella. Ding Day 19 isn't far away! ;)
Quote from: StuC on November 3, 2018, 00:08
Quote from: Joesson on November 2, 2018, 22:02
when I was a miller
Aaaaah this was you the Tony..
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) keep going fella. Ding Day 19 isn't far away! ;)
Glad to see your back @StuC (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=15683) - and grinding them out ;)
Quote from: StuC on November 3, 2018, 00:08
Quote from: Joesson on November 2, 2018, 22:02
when I was a miller
Aaaaah this was you the Tony..
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) keep going fella. Ding Day 19 isn't far away! ;)
Only after sprouts eh Tony.
@Joesson (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18231) @StuC (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=15683)
Quote from: 8thumpers on November 2, 2018, 23:31
Quote from: Joesson on November 2, 2018, 22:02
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) - From your photos I believe you are milling the ally dry.
Have you had any problem with it sticking to the cutting edge?
Paraffin was the cutting fluid for ally, when I was a miller, but that was a while ago.
Hope your "luck" continues ;)
Hey
No we did mill it with cutting fluid - applied by hand every so often. Works ok :)
Fingers crossed on the luck!
Sorry @8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672), I'm sure you know how to suck eggs as well as I do ;)
Quote from: 1979scotte on November 3, 2018, 09:27
Quote from: StuC on November 3, 2018, 00:08
Quote from: Joesson on November 2, 2018, 22:02
when I was a miller
Aaaaah this was you the Tony..
@8thumpers (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22672) keep going fella. Ding Day 19 isn't far away! ;)
Only after sprouts eh Tony.
@Joesson (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18231) @StuC (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=15683)
@1979scotte (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=20268) said"Lanzarote, sunny but windy"
Are sprouts on the menu in Lanzarote?
Any updates on this one? Ding day approacheth....
Thought somebody might ask that question.....!
Ok, so I separated from my Mrs last August. Managed to squeeze in a day or two at end of the year, but since then haven't been back to the garage to get any work done to it.
Good news is that I now have a new workshop with lots of room. I'm hoping to move the car v soon and carry on where I left off. I still have the far-side hub to fabricate and the suspension arms to make too. After that it shouldn't take long to get it back on its wheels. Then the fun will start with wiring and trying to get it running.
Not sure I'll have it running for Ding day, but watch this space.
Project still very much alive!!!
Wow...man I'm really sorry to hear about the separation. Hope you're able to take enough time to put yourself back together..
Ignore me and my requests for progress!
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Cheers dude - I have never felt more complete! Lol
Watch this space....
Quote from: 8thumpers on March 12, 2019, 20:22
Cheers dude - I have never felt more complete! Lol
Watch this space....
Good man. Life's too short for unhappiness. Good to see the project continuing!
Glad to hear your still on it. Life has to go on. :)
Went to Japfest today and checked out the 2 section for inspiration. Guessing some of these were your cars guys!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/54370e8057f919dc25c5ffde8dd12b37.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/6b179ec93903000afb2bb6965e9054e2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/97b3a28fdb7733cc1679dd252681754b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/c226e37b202cc0f5ecd7d8a13ee6b4ad.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/f84109f48c125cfc461111e2aecb2965.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/5159b13579cfadc3a3b5139e12396d51.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/47b30b12503ed9e63c4266e918696b7a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/1a54a6cfbf2b4add1cb9db9fc84dd70e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/d01f7278dc08424d15b06c926260234d.jpg)
Nice [emoji3]
So what are the chances of you coming to Ding day? And what are the odds of you brining your car?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Quote from: jvanzyl on May 5, 2019, 22:37
Nice [emoji3]
So what are the chances of you coming to Ding day? And what are the odds of you brining your car?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Which date is dingo? Zero chance of v8 going, I'm afraid, but I may bring something else.... ;)
Quote from: 8thumpers on May 6, 2019, 09:01
Quote from: jvanzyl on May 5, 2019, 22:37
Nice [emoji3]
So what are the chances of you coming to Ding day? And what are the odds of you brining your car?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Which date is dingo? Zero chance of v8 going, I'm afraid, but I may bring something else.... ;)
Sat June the 1st! Think the sign up is 40+ cars so far... Would be nice to meet in person and hopefully pick your brains on things!
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Quote from: jvanzyl on May 6, 2019, 09:28
Quote from: 8thumpers on May 6, 2019, 09:01
Quote from: jvanzyl on May 5, 2019, 22:37
Nice [emoji3]
So what are the chances of you coming to Ding day? And what are the odds of you brining your car?
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Which date is dingo? Zero chance of v8 going, I'm afraid, but I may bring something else.... ;)
Sat June the 1st! Think the sign up is 40+ cars so far... Would be nice to meet in person and hopefully pick your brains on things!
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
That is a shame - traveling back from Holland that day :(
Show date is Sun 2nd
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on May 6, 2019, 22:10
Show date is Sun 2nd
Show is near Coventry isn't it?
Hatton Country World Dark Lane Hatton Warwickshire CV35 8XA.
so what is the latest on this? needs more pics!!
Quote from: BahnStormer on August 15, 2019, 12:04so what is the latest on this? needs more pics!!
Was thinking the same.
@8thumpers
Hi guys
I'm still alive and still have the v8 project on the back burner.
It is next in line for workshop space when the integrale shell goes to be dipped.
Can anyone advise why tapatalk won't load this forum anymore? One day it just stopped loading...
Quote from: 8thumpers on September 9, 2019, 22:42Hi guys
I'm still alive and still have the v8 project on the back burner.
It is next in line for workshop space when the integrale shell goes to be dipped.
Can anyone advise why tapatalk won't load this forum anymore? One day it just stopped loading...
Good to know the project is still alive!
As for Tapatalk;that's my fault.
Upgraded thr forum software and unfortunately it turned out that this exact build is not compatible with Tapatalk (yet). They're working on it. Fingers crossed
complete newbie here - currently looking to purchase a Mk 3 model, so looking to see what i can do with the engine. this thread is amazing - brilliant work
@8thumpers. can't wait to see the rest of the build.
i'm sure you've got plans already, but get as much ventilation and cooling into that bay as possible. i currently have an Audi A6 with the V8 engine from 2004 to 2008 (BAT engine same as in the S4). That engine gives off a lot of heat - especially the area around the manifolds - when you walk past the front arches after a drive you can feel the heat oozing out.
good luck with the next stages.
Awesome read so far. Waiting with baited breath to see the next update!
Bought this Blackline 200 mig welder. Fantastic welds straight out of the box! Rally Design supplied.
Ok, this is the other Audi hub with built up weld. Next step is to mill it ready for taking the coilover leg.
Quote from: 8thumpers on December 6, 2019, 19:28Bought this Blackline 200 mig welder. Fantastic welds straight out of the box!
Potentially. It still is wélder laying the welds. Congrats on both counts!!
And everybody cheered because there's more progress on the ultimate build!
I am not a welder but where i used to work i got a chance to play with the tig and i made a few things by welding bits together and building things up with weld and machining them to shape. As said im not a welder and maybe the rods were not suitable but the weld seemed soft to me and i would not have trusted welded suspension components..
Quote from: 105e on December 6, 2019, 21:51I am not a welder but where i used to work i got a chance to play with the tig and i made a few things by welding bits together and building things up with weld and machining them to shape. As said im not a welder and maybe the rods were not suitable but the weld seemed soft to me and i would not have trusted welded suspension components..
All the major components are welded by my mate who is a coded welder.
Well this just popped up on my phone...
Seriously weird as I was talking about the V8 conversion, as we were making workshop space, this morning.
I'm getting a 2 post lift fitted in new year and will get back to the MR8 soon afterwards.
How many of you guys are still on here?
A few of us... :-)
@8thumpers Unfortunately haven't heard from
@StuC in over a year.
@1979scotte ,who's last 2 was a V6 (Bee6) conversion was last on here a couple of months ago.
@Ardent still remains turbocharged.
Others will shout up I'm sure.
As for myself, I remain on here but totally unconverted.
Good to see the V8 project is still in process.
Still here
Glad to see the project is about
Think of the v8 sound to motivate you 8)
Still here.
Good to hear its still in the pipeline.
How about setting a completion date so we can badger you?!
I'm still around and interested in seeing this.
Quote from: Joesson on December 5, 2023, 13:14@8thumpers
Unfortunately haven't heard from @StuC in over a year.
@1979scotte ,who's last 2 was a V6 (Bee6) conversion was last on here a couple of months ago.
@Ardent still remains turbocharged.
Others will shout up I'm sure.
As for myself, I remain on here but totally unconverted.
Good to see the V8 project is still in process.
I am alive ;D
Alive twice in one day.
Is this a resurgence in the making?
Quote from: Ardent on January 29, 2024, 21:48Alive twice in one day.
Is this a resurgence in the making?
Honestly... prolly not, sorry.
Life is very full ATM and I don't really get a lot of down time anymore.
Still have his and hers yellow 2's.
Although banana is off the road currently needing tax and an mot. I miss driving her... A lot. 😢
Saying that we don't go anywhere anyway. Have thought about selling her to someone that will actually get some enjoyment by being able to keep her on the road.
That's how I feel every time I open the garage door!