Hi there Chaps and Chapettes,
Let me introduce my MR2.
I have wanted an MR2 in various forms for a long time and set my mind on an Mk3 after seeing some of you down at Japfest 2018.
I picked mine up off a lovely older couple who have owned the car in the family for almost 13 years.
1-min.jpg
She was in perfect condition with only 33K miles on her and had been garaged most of its life.
2-min.jpg
Had the hardtop and the banana spoiler and was mechanically perfect, checked the Cats and subframe both clean as a whistle. I nearly ripped the guy's arm off to buy it then and there.
4-min.jpg
I came back a week later with a trailer as it was SORN at the time as the previous owner couldn't drive it anymore.
0-min.jpg
Welcome!
So good to hear we managed to convince someone to see the light :)
It does look like a very nice specimen indeed. Hardtop is a nice bonus.
Once home, it had The Works - full exterior clean, clay bar, polish and a good go at the seat leather.
5-min.jpg
6-min.jpg
All clean!
7-min.jpg
After giving it a basic service and letting the battery have a good charge, it was ready to go on the road.
After having a whoopsie with the MOT after having the handbrake being seized on ;D , all was good for a few weeks.
However, the itch started....
I bought some stainless fusebox covers on ebay from 1972dragon on ebay. He makes some very nice stuff, I would recommend giving him a look.
9-min.jpg
8-min.jpg
Before
10-min.jpg
11-min.jpg
After
Then a Garrett GT2560R turned up...
12-min.jpg
Watch This Space...
There appears to be a tint on the front lamps.
is that on the exterior of the lamp or is it on the inside?
Quote from: StuC on September 18, 2019, 19:42There appears to be a tint on the front lamps.
is that on the exterior of the lamp or is it on the inside?
Outside :)
Interesting. It looks good. Do you think it is a window tint film?
I assume the MOT has been passed OK with it on?
Quote from: StuC on September 18, 2019, 20:39Interesting. It looks good. Do you think it is a window tint film?
I assume the MOT has been passed OK with it on?
Mot Passed no probs, it looks like 60% window tint. Its quite thick film though.
I reckons I will be checking that out at Ding Day 2020, if we can convince you to attend! ;)
Quote from: StuC on September 18, 2019, 21:08I reckons I will be checking that out at Ding Day 2020, if we can convince you to attend! ;)
It will be a pleasure! ;)
Be good to see another turbo build!
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 18, 2019, 21:29Quote from: StuC on September 18, 2019, 21:08I reckons I will be checking that out at Ding Day 2020, if we can convince you to attend! ;)
It will be a pleasure! ;)
That's the spirit! :)
Well...
Long story short, I gave the car to someone to fit all the turbo bits.
I'm not in the business of naming and shaming so I will just post pictures.
This work was done by Roadster Sport Ltd
I had the car 24 hours before I could give it a good inspection, I now wished I had checked sooner.
Whilst taking the car for a short run to the shops I noticed the temperature gauge creeping up. once I had pulled away it sharply rose way past "H" and into unknown territory where no dash needle dare go. I was luckily very close to home so I limped it in to be greeted by this.
Uh Oh 1-min.jpg
3-min.jpg
4-min.jpg
Not great...
That is the coolant return to the turbo.
However, it did give me the chance to properly inspect the car which I hadn't been able to do the day before due to getting back very late.
To which I found this.
@CodfishRickIf you don't say who did the work how can others not make the same mistake you did.
Turbo to Chargecooler "Reducer"
IMG_20190920_232029.jpg
Chargecooler pipe getting pinched in the steering knuckle, caused it to leak.
20190919_165654-min.jpg
Oil return from turbo is "glued" on and leaking quite badly.
20190918_140542.jpg
Oil everywhere from leaking sump and sump plug, random (temp/pressure?) sensor
20190918_165058.jpg
Turbo oil return to sump. Left fitting threaded, right hand packed with washers and pushed in not welded.
20190920_151133.jpg
Quote from: 1979scotte on September 20, 2019, 23:33@CodfishRick
If you don't say who did the work how can others not make the same mistake you did.
I'm still speaking to the chap, after which I will.
Also came with a complementary kerbed wheel.
20190919_165354.jpg
20190919_165405.jpg
Well... I must say, that is some high quality cowboy work.
That's not just bodging, that's not knowing what you're doing.
Sorry you had to go through this dude :(
Sorry it must be very upsetting.
Hope it's no one I know.
Name and shame them so others can avoid.
Hope it gets sorted, if you need any advice on bits and pieces loads of good folk about on here to advise (from 1st hand experience, not forum warriors!)
WTF!
I feel sick looking at those pics.
Despite the much bigger issues, the kerbed rim would have sent me ballistic.
If I have my avatar names correct, you were at shin ding.
Is the car even useable right now?
I was very kindly offered help in sorting this all out from local motorsports team. Not something they would normally take on but they could see I was in a bind.
This is their list as of today:
Issues:
Charge cooler piping not correct (Kinked and broken pipe)
Several unplugged sensors (Oil temp/Pressure, unknown)
Damage to bodywork (Scratch on roof, scuff on door, kerbed wheel)
Missing Expansion tank for chargecooler (This has been discussed)
Fuel gauge acting strangely (Jumping, not accurate)
Differential not working correctly under torqued conditions
1st gear sticky/resistant
Front suspension not connected properly (Top mount loose)
Crankcase breather not disconnected (Boost pressure on breather from throttle body)
Bodywork missing clips/ Frunk area missing clips
Bodywork not mounted correctly
Chargecooler not mounted
Clutch not properly bled
Chargecooler not bled
Rear bonnet not aligned correctly
Engine cover missing clips and mounted incorrectly
Oil Cooler mounted loosely (Loose/missing bolts)
Oil cooler piping weeping at connections
Oil return sump fitting leaking
Air Filter not heat shielded or near cold air intake
Air filter mounted incorrectly (Loose, not pushed on enough)
15W 40 Mineral Oil in engine (Too thick)
Possible boost pressure on fuel line (To be investigated)
Front wheels misaligned (Tracking was done this year)
Engine soundproofing torn in several places (Missing clips/Torn)
Oil in/return to turbo cross threaded
Parts missing:
All parts of engine undertray "Nappy"
Exhaust heat shielding
Gearbox/Differential Undertray (Near and Offside)
Mid section Undertray
Quote from: Ardent on September 21, 2019, 17:10I feel sick looking at those pics.
Despite the much bigger issues, the kerbed rim would have sent me ballistic.
If I have my avatar names correct, you were at shin ding.
Is the car even useable right now?
The car is not useable right now. I am also concerned about damage to the block due to overheating, the car hasn't been able to start yet.
Not sure what you mean by "Shin ding" :)
Chargecooler radiator mounted on 2 small rivets.
min2.jpg
This means the bottom is very loose and hits the radiator behind.
Oil leaking from around sump
min32.jpg
A mark has appeared that the mechanic described as "Looks like someones rubbed sandpaper on it".
I will get some images of the bodywork when I visit on Monday. Suffice to say it was immaculate apart from a dent on the driver's side and some stone chips.
Sweet jebus.... That's a hell of a list of critical issues.
All sorted now?
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:37Chargecooler radiator mounted on 2 small rivets.
min2.jpg
This means the bottom is very loose and hits the radiator behind.
Oil leaking from around sump
min32.jpg
That's coming from much higher up than the sump.
A mark has appeared that the mechanic described as "Looks like someones rubbed sandpaper on it".
I will get some images of the bodywork when I visit on Monday. Suffice to say it was immaculate apart from a dent on the driver's side and some stone chips.
Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 20:38Sweet jebus.... That's a hell of a list of critical issues.
All sorted now?
Still ongoing, going to be another week at least.
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:18I was very kindly offered help in sorting this all out from local motorsports team. Not something they would normally take on but they could see I was in a bind.
This is their list as of today:
Issues:
Charge cooler piping not correct (Kinked and broken pipe)
Several unplugged sensors (Oil temp/Pressure, unknown)
Damage to bodywork (Scratch on roof, scuff on door, kerbed wheel)
Missing Expansion tank for chargecooler (This has been discussed)
Fuel gauge acting strangely (Jumping, not accurate)
Differential not working correctly under torqued conditions
1st gear sticky/resistant
Front suspension not connected properly (Top mount loose)
Crankcase breather not disconnected (Boost pressure on breather from throttle body)
Bodywork missing clips/ Frunk area missing clips
Bodywork not mounted correctly
Chargecooler not mounted
Clutch not properly bled
Chargecooler not bled
Rear bonnet not aligned correctly
Engine cover missing clips and mounted incorrectly
Oil Cooler mounted loosely (Loose/missing bolts)
Oil cooler piping weeping at connections
Oil return sump fitting leaking
Air Filter not heat shielded or near cold air intake
Air filter mounted incorrectly (Loose, not pushed on enough)
15W 40 Mineral Oil in engine (Too thick)
Possible boost pressure on fuel line (To be investigated)
Front wheels misaligned (Tracking was done this year)
Engine soundproofing torn in several places (Missing clips/Torn)
Oil in/return to turbo cross threaded
Parts missing:
All parts of engine undertray "Nappy"
Exhaust heat shielding
Gearbox/Differential Undertray (Near and Offside)
Mid section Undertray
Having read it a bit closer... A few observations. Happy for others to call bullshit on my findings but, would hate to see you go through more trouble and costs.
- pcv not disconnected; I hope not! With boost you should have one-way valves installed to ensure that you're definitely not pressurising the block or trusting just the pcv to do so. But 100% definitely needs to be connected. That's just fundamental almost to how the engine works. Not to mention your brake servo.
- boost in fuel line; just not possible in my opinion. Fuel pressure is about 5x higher than any boost you're putting in,so you're about 35psi boost short of it being physically possible for boost to be pushed back up your injector. Unless you have one severely knackered and wide open injector. Even then...
- the undertrays they say you're missing make no sense. Near and offside gearbox/diff undertrays?
- how do they know its 15w40 oil? It could be, but, not the first thing you'd notice.
- diff not working correctly? How did they determine this? I'm not 100% sure on this but there's only one way to find out if the diff is doing its thing and your car doesn't seem like it's in any state to do that.
About 80% of that is resolved yourself with some simple tools.
So, yes, there's some glaring mechanical issues from your previous "installer" but don't let them fleece you for nothing.
Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 21:19Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:18I was very kindly offered help in sorting this all out from local motorsports team. Not something they would normally take on but they could see I was in a bind.
This is their list as of today:
Issues:
Charge cooler piping not correct (Kinked and broken pipe)
Several unplugged sensors (Oil temp/Pressure, unknown)
Damage to bodywork (Scratch on roof, scuff on door, kerbed wheel)
Missing Expansion tank for chargecooler (This has been discussed)
Fuel gauge acting strangely (Jumping, not accurate)
Differential not working correctly under torqued conditions
1st gear sticky/resistant
Front suspension not connected properly (Top mount loose)
Crankcase breather not disconnected (Boost pressure on breather from throttle body)
Bodywork missing clips/ Frunk area missing clips
Bodywork not mounted correctly
Chargecooler not mounted
Clutch not properly bled
Chargecooler not bled
Rear bonnet not aligned correctly
Engine cover missing clips and mounted incorrectly
Oil Cooler mounted loosely (Loose/missing bolts)
Oil cooler piping weeping at connections
Oil return sump fitting leaking
Air Filter not heat shielded or near cold air intake
Air filter mounted incorrectly (Loose, not pushed on enough)
15W 40 Mineral Oil in engine (Too thick)
Possible boost pressure on fuel line (To be investigated)
Front wheels misaligned (Tracking was done this year)
Engine soundproofing torn in several places (Missing clips/Torn)
Oil in/return to turbo cross threaded
Parts missing:
All parts of engine undertray "Nappy"
Exhaust heat shielding
Gearbox/Differential Undertray (Near and Offside)
Mid section Undertray
Having read it a bit closer... A few observations. Happy for others to call bullshit on my findings but, would hate to see you go through more trouble and costs.
- pcv not disconnected; I hope not! With boost you should have one-way valves installed to ensure that you're definitely not pressurising the block or trusting just the pcv to do so. But 100% definitely needs to be connected. That's just fundamental almost to how the engine works. Not to mention your brake servo.
- boost in fuel line; just not possible in my opinion. Fuel pressure is about 5x higher than any boost you're putting in,so you're about 35psi boost short of it being physically possible for boost to be pushed back up your injector. Unless you have one severely knackered and wide open injector. Even then...
- the undertrays they say you're missing make no sense. Near and offside gearbox/diff undertrays?
- how do they know its 15w40 oil? It could be, but, not the first thing you'd notice.
- diff not working correctly? How did they determine this? I'm not 100% sure on this but there's only one way to find out if the diff is doing its thing and your car doesn't seem like it's in any state to do that.
About 80% of that is resolved yourself with some simple tools.
So, yes, there's some glaring mechanical issues from your previous "installer" but don't let them fleece you for nothing.
The PCV valve
IS disconnected and is just a straight pipe at the moment. (This may be what they are referring to)
15W 40 Mineral is what I have been told by the chap that fitted it is what's in it, I'm not really sure if its an issue but I will bring it up.
I think they mean the undertray that sits over the gearbox.From what I have been told about the diff they seem to think its acting like its locked, will question this.
After my last experience I am questioning everything they are telling me, I don't think I'm being shafted as I know a chap in there, but im still being cautious.
In regards to solving myself, I would rather at this stage have it done properly than myself bodge it to work :)
Why God would you use anything but fully synthetic oil?
It's 2019 ffs.
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 21:42Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 21:19Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:18I was very kindly offered help in sorting this all out from local motorsports team. Not something they would normally take on but they could see I was in a bind.
This is their list as of today:
Issues:
Charge cooler piping not correct (Kinked and broken pipe)
Several unplugged sensors (Oil temp/Pressure, unknown)
Damage to bodywork (Scratch on roof, scuff on door, kerbed wheel)
Missing Expansion tank for chargecooler (This has been discussed)
Fuel gauge acting strangely (Jumping, not accurate)
Differential not working correctly under torqued conditions
1st gear sticky/resistant
Front suspension not connected properly (Top mount loose)
Crankcase breather not disconnected (Boost pressure on breather from throttle body)
Bodywork missing clips/ Frunk area missing clips
Bodywork not mounted correctly
Chargecooler not mounted
Clutch not properly bled
Chargecooler not bled
Rear bonnet not aligned correctly
Engine cover missing clips and mounted incorrectly
Oil Cooler mounted loosely (Loose/missing bolts)
Oil cooler piping weeping at connections
Oil return sump fitting leaking
Air Filter not heat shielded or near cold air intake
Air filter mounted incorrectly (Loose, not pushed on enough)
15W 40 Mineral Oil in engine (Too thick)
Possible boost pressure on fuel line (To be investigated)
Front wheels misaligned (Tracking was done this year)
Engine soundproofing torn in several places (Missing clips/Torn)
Oil in/return to turbo cross threaded
Parts missing:
All parts of engine undertray "Nappy"
Exhaust heat shielding
Gearbox/Differential Undertray (Near and Offside)
Mid section Undertray
Having read it a bit closer... A few observations. Happy for others to call bullshit on my findings but, would hate to see you go through more trouble and costs.
- pcv not disconnected; I hope not! With boost you should have one-way valves installed to ensure that you're definitely not pressurising the block or trusting just the pcv to do so. But 100% definitely needs to be connected. That's just fundamental almost to how the engine works. Not to mention your brake servo.
- boost in fuel line; just not possible in my opinion. Fuel pressure is about 5x higher than any boost you're putting in,so you're about 35psi boost short of it being physically possible for boost to be pushed back up your injector. Unless you have one severely knackered and wide open injector. Even then...
- the undertrays they say you're missing make no sense. Near and offside gearbox/diff undertrays?
- how do they know its 15w40 oil? It could be, but, not the first thing you'd notice.
- diff not working correctly? How did they determine this? I'm not 100% sure on this but there's only one way to find out if the diff is doing its thing and your car doesn't seem like it's in any state to do that.
About 80% of that is resolved yourself with some simple tools.
So, yes, there's some glaring mechanical issues from your previous "installer" but don't let them fleece you for nothing.
The PCV valve IS disconnected and is just a straight pipe at the moment. (This may be what they are referring to)
15W 40 Mineral is what I have been told by the chap that fitted it is what's in it, I'm not really sure if its an issue but I will bring it up.
I think they mean the undertray that sits over the gearbox.
From what I have been told about the diff they seem to think its acting like its locked, will question this.
After my last experience I am questioning everything they are telling me, I don't think I'm being shafted as I know a chap in there, but im still being cautious.
In regards to solving myself, I would rather at this stage have it done properly than myself bodge it to work :)
With the things to do yourself I meant like tightening the top mounts, straightening the bonnets, fixing clips etc. Don't want to be paying 40gbp per hour for those things.
But then it's down to availability and time of course.
Sounds like you've got the right approach now. As long as your head is in it
Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 22:02Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 21:42Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 21:19Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:18I was very kindly offered help in sorting this all out from local motorsports team. Not something they would normally take on but they could see I was in a bind.
This is their list as of today:
Issues:
Charge cooler piping not correct (Kinked and broken pipe)
Several unplugged sensors (Oil temp/Pressure, unknown)
Damage to bodywork (Scratch on roof, scuff on door, kerbed wheel)
Missing Expansion tank for chargecooler (This has been discussed)
Fuel gauge acting strangely (Jumping, not accurate)
Differential not working correctly under torqued conditions
1st gear sticky/resistant
Front suspension not connected properly (Top mount loose)
Crankcase breather not disconnected (Boost pressure on breather from throttle body)
Bodywork missing clips/ Frunk area missing clips
Bodywork not mounted correctly
Chargecooler not mounted
Clutch not properly bled
Chargecooler not bled
Rear bonnet not aligned correctly
Engine cover missing clips and mounted incorrectly
Oil Cooler mounted loosely (Loose/missing bolts)
Oil cooler piping weeping at connections
Oil return sump fitting leaking
Air Filter not heat shielded or near cold air intake
Air filter mounted incorrectly (Loose, not pushed on enough)
15W 40 Mineral Oil in engine (Too thick)
Possible boost pressure on fuel line (To be investigated)
Front wheels misaligned (Tracking was done this year)
Engine soundproofing torn in several places (Missing clips/Torn)
Oil in/return to turbo cross threaded
Parts missing:
All parts of engine undertray "Nappy"
Exhaust heat shielding
Gearbox/Differential Undertray (Near and Offside)
Mid section Undertray
Having read it a bit closer... A few observations. Happy for others to call bullshit on my findings but, would hate to see you go through more trouble and costs.
- pcv not disconnected; I hope not! With boost you should have one-way valves installed to ensure that you're definitely not pressurising the block or trusting just the pcv to do so. But 100% definitely needs to be connected. That's just fundamental almost to how the engine works. Not to mention your brake servo.
- boost in fuel line; just not possible in my opinion. Fuel pressure is about 5x higher than any boost you're putting in,so you're about 35psi boost short of it being physically possible for boost to be pushed back up your injector. Unless you have one severely knackered and wide open injector. Even then...
- the undertrays they say you're missing make no sense. Near and offside gearbox/diff undertrays?
- how do they know its 15w40 oil? It could be, but, not the first thing you'd notice.
- diff not working correctly? How did they determine this? I'm not 100% sure on this but there's only one way to find out if the diff is doing its thing and your car doesn't seem like it's in any state to do that.
About 80% of that is resolved yourself with some simple tools.
So, yes, there's some glaring mechanical issues from your previous "installer" but don't let them fleece you for nothing.
The PCV valve IS disconnected and is just a straight pipe at the moment. (This may be what they are referring to)
15W 40 Mineral is what I have been told by the chap that fitted it is what's in it, I'm not really sure if its an issue but I will bring it up.
I think they mean the undertray that sits over the gearbox.
From what I have been told about the diff they seem to think its acting like its locked, will question this.
After my last experience I am questioning everything they are telling me, I don't think I'm being shafted as I know a chap in there, but im still being cautious.
In regards to solving myself, I would rather at this stage have it done properly than myself bodge it to work :)
With the things to do yourself I meant like tightening the top mounts, straightening the bonnets, fixing clips etc. Don't want to be paying 40gbp per hour for those things.
But then it's down to availability and time of course.
Sounds like you've got the right approach now. As long as your head is in it
Bodywork misalignment and the bonnet I can sort myself, as you say £40 an hour for some clips :)
The list is just everything they have identified, not everything they are sorting.
It's a Torque Sensing diff. When jacked up, the car behaves as though it doesn't have an LSD. You turn one wheel and the other doesn't (shouldn't) turn.
The oil leak looks like a classic long-term chain tensioner leak.
Quote from: Carolyn on September 21, 2019, 22:23It's a Torque Sensing diff. When jacked up, the car behaves as though it doesn't have an LSD. You turn one wheel and the other doesn't (shouldn't) turn.
The oil leak looks like a classic long-term chain tensioner leak.
Cheers Carolyn, I will pass this on.
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 22:27Quote from: Carolyn on September 21, 2019, 22:23It's a Torque Sensing diff. When jacked up, the car behaves as though it doesn't have an LSD. You turn one wheel and the other doesn't (shouldn't) turn.
The oil leak looks like a classic long-term chain tensioner leak.
Cheers Carolyn, I will pass this on.
I would be inclined to "not" pass this on, initially, and use as a litmus test, do they know whats what, or phrase it, I understand it is a torque sensing diff, what would you expect to happen..........
Quote from: Ardent on September 21, 2019, 22:39Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 22:27Quote from: Carolyn on September 21, 2019, 22:23It's a Torque Sensing diff. When jacked up, the car behaves as though it doesn't have an LSD. You turn one wheel and the other doesn't (shouldn't) turn.
The oil leak looks like a classic long-term chain tensioner leak.
Cheers Carolyn, I will pass this on.
I would be inclined to "not" pass this on, initially, and use as a litmus test, do they know whats what, or phrase it, I understand it is a torque sensing diff, what would you expect to happen..........
Good point, I think I will use the "
I understand it is a torque sensing diff, what would you expect to happen".
Some Good news
I have the car back and ship-shape!
14-min.jpg
15-min.jpg
13-min.jpg
New expansion tank for charge cooler loop (Off a crashed Ginetta G40)
16-min.jpg
I still need to have a new exhaust made up as the one on the car is loaned, then go back to RRR to finish the map.
Its making 200+ish on 8.6 PSI at the moment.
I have edited the first post to reflect who did the original work.
I'm glad you have.
To save everyone looking
Roadster sport Ltd.
Glad I've never heard of them.
I've heard of them, they trade on ebay....