We picked up a project over the summer, some of you may have seen the ad on here:
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67715.0
The plan is to bring it back to roadworthy condition with my son to help him learn about basic car mechanics.
Here's what it started like:
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Here it is back at home:
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The boys giving it all a clean and figuring out what the new project is
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First job was to clean up some surface rust on the floor, treat it and paint it.
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Then get the carpet back in.
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More to follow...
Next it was time to fit the soft top (not as straight forward as we hoped)
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Interior plastic back in and carpet washed
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Ready for the seats to go back in
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Although one of the bolts snapped so that's a job for another day.
Next job was to fit a new battery and turn the key...it started first time and ticked over smoothly. No rattles or tapping and all electrics work.
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Next was on to the mechanical bits.
I Like where this is going.
Well played.
Another ex-VX220 owner migrated over :D
Looks like things are going well.
When do you hope to get it on the road?
Quote from: james_ly on October 2, 2019, 10:27Another ex-VX220 owner migrated over :D
Hi James! That should be migrated BACK to roc... my history with MR2's goes back a good few years now with my first ever track day in a MK1 (showing my age).
Enjoying your MR2? Have you got a 2zz in it yet?
Quote from: Topdownman on October 2, 2019, 11:24Looks like things are going well.
When do you hope to get it on the road?
That depends on how much time my son is willing/able to put in. He's got a lot of study at the moment and I'm trying not to take over...
List of jobs are:
- Fit the new brake discs and pads
- Refit callipers and bleed through new fluid
- Tidy up rear subframe (it's solid but has surface rust)
- Remove pre-cats from the manifold
- Replace the rusty sump
- Identify the cause of power steering fluid leak and repair
- Replace oil and filter
- Fix the snapped seat bolt
- MOT
On the wish list/potential things which may follow once it's on the road:
- check/replace suspension bushes/arms/joints
- new dampers (?)
- paint the brake callipers
So probably another month for the 'must do' list.
Quote from: Captain Vimes on October 2, 2019, 12:35Quote from: james_ly on October 2, 2019, 10:27Another ex-VX220 owner migrated over :D
Hi James! That should be migrated BACK to roc... my history with MR2's goes back a good few years now with my first ever track day in a MK1 (showing my age).
Enjoying your MR2? Have you got a 2zz in it yet?
(y) Still 1ZZ and road tyres - enjoying a cheaper track day experience still chasing down the Elises..
Not too long to get it fixed then if all goes to plan!
I have spotted a problem though, 3 of you working on it but who gets to drive/ ride in it when its fixed!
No problem on who's going to drive this one... my sons aren't 17 yet so I'll have the pleasure there!
We've made some good progress since the last update.
First was pre-cats and the good news was that they were in perfect condition even after 120k miles on a PFL car! Shame the manifold bolts weren't in better shape.
The bolts holding the heat shield turned to dust when shown a socket. As the manifold will run much cooler without the cats, the heat shield was permanently removed with an angle grinder..
The three amigos came undone ok, well they did with application of some good old fashion brute force and a heat gun, but the threads were pretty mangled. So the studs were tapped to allow fitment of some standard pitch nuts.
The job of gently removing the cats with the use of a steel bar and a hammer was easier then expected and one my son seemed to enjoy!
Next job, while we were there was to address the rear subframe. I quick prod with a screwdriver and hammer revealed the rust to be surface only and the structure itself was solid.
Out with the wire brush, a liberal application of kurust and 3 coats of hammerite and it's looking a lot better.
Before:
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After:
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Well done to you all for bringing this little 2 back to life. I love seeing cars "made better" again especially these awesome little cars. A very good read. :)
On to the engine...
Time for an oil and filter change but the sump was covered in rust so we got a 2nd hand one from a breakers(avoided the Ebay copies from China to ensure a good fit) and pulled the sump. While there it gave an opportunity to inspect the crank and big ends (it's got a crank...).
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While there we put a new drive belt on as the old one was looking pretty tired. Left overnight for the sealant to cure before firing up with the new oil.
Then on to the brakes. It came with new pagid discs and pads but with some of the calipers removed and the bolts/bits in a tin. Fortunately all the important bits were there so it was mostly a case of bolting it all back together with the new parts and bleeding the brakes through.
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And that's pretty much where we are. The handbrake is only working one side so that'll need looking at. But next job is to focus on the power steering leak. The frunk area isn't looking great and to power steering hoses look like they've been borrowed from the titanic. We can't even get the spare wheel out as the bolt is rusted in place. More angle grinding, rust treatment and repairs to follow...
Frunk rust and leaking power steering fluid is now sorted.
The power steering return pipe had so much surface rust that it was leaking where it joined the rubber hose. With the surface rust removed, treated and painted and the addition of some new jubilee clips the leak was fixed for almost nothing.
Now filled with some fresh Ravenol EHPS fluid and it's all working perfectly again.
Repaired power steering pipe:
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Frunk area treated and painted:
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So the list of jobs complete! Nearly there, final job was to look at why the handbrake wasn't operating on the RHS.
Seats and centre console back out and the problem is not adjustment, the right cable is rusted and seized solid. Petrol tank dropped, cable removed and despite managing to free the cable up a bit its not free enough to use.
Called the local Toyota dealer and they want £104 for just the right cable! Ebay revealed a QH cable available delivered for £21. Hopefully this'll be the final job before the MOT!
Great work, bet there aren't many frunks that look as good as that :)
Thanks. It's a satisfying process, especially as it's all superficial. A little bit of TLC now will hopefully preserve it for many years to come.
Handbrake cable replaced and adjusted and car all back in one piece for the first time since we got it.
So that's it, all jobs complete and ready for a clean/polish and the MOT.
Really pleased with how it's turned out and looking forward to getting out for a good drive in it!
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MOT day today... and it only went and passed!!
The points to note were a loose bolt on the rear suspension leg (not something we touched so a helpful spot!) and the handbrake is weak on the drivers side, not enough to fail but not ideal. It has a new cable that side so it's the calliper at fault. It's been sitting for years so hopefully a bit of use will free it up. If not it'll get a new calliper.
To celebrate the result we treated it to a new air filter. The old one was a genuine Toyota one, as was the oil filter, which suggests that the previous owner(s) took good care of it with good quality parts.
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It was great to finally drive it, although flooded roads and pouring rain weren't ideal. Amazed at the feel and grip it had whilst being comfortable over the bumps. It's a great little chassis.
Now we need to decide what to do with it! My eldest son isn't 17 until 2021 and the insurance quote for him is £6000+ so it's no good to him although he's become quite attached to it.
I've got other toys to play with so not sure how much I'll use it.
Watch this space...
Brilliant result. When you think what it looked like when you brought it. Credit to you Sir, bet you are well chuffed, well done. :)
Well phase 2 of the project is about to begin. What started out as a cheap car and simple project just took an expensive turn..
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New koni inserts, top mounts and dust boots all round. So about £1000 worth of parts.
I expect we'll need to add drop links and possibly some bushes and ball joints once it's stripped down but these cars are all about the handling after all and I can't wait to drive it with fresh suspension!
Oh and a new o2 sensor will be going in shortly as well...
Glad to hear you are splashing out on it, I was afraid you were going to sell it!
Will you be changing the springs too? (Either standard or lowering?). I would want new when changing everything else.
Are you going to bring it to Ding Day?
Quote from: Topdownman on February 12, 2020, 06:21Glad to hear you are splashing out on it, I was afraid you were going to sell it!
Will you be changing the springs too? (Either standard or lowering?). I would want new when changing everything else.
Are you going to bring it to Ding Day?
2nd that. It's definitely my go-to option at the minute so a drive would be great.
@thetyrant is close by but not that close :)
Good choice of dampers i love the Konis on my MR2....and my 130i beemer :D
Shnazzle when weather improves will have to meet up in the middle somewhere so you can have a drive on the Konis :)
Quote from: Topdownman on February 12, 2020, 06:21Glad to hear you are splashing out on it, I was afraid you were going to sell it!
Will you be changing the springs too? (Either standard or lowering?). I would want new when changing everything else.
Are you going to bring it to Ding Day?
The sensible decision is to sell as I already have enough cars, but I had a 1zz turbo SMT years ago and loved it although the whole experience was dominated by the turbo.
I loved my old mk1 MR2 and I always fancied trying a manual mk3 NA with the focus back on the handling instead of the engine. The trouble with this car is it's handling is horrible with the geo clearly wrong and a worrying rattle from the front. So it needs sorting and enjoying at least for a while!
I want it to be a great road car and when the Koni's came up on Facebook I couldn't resist. We're going to keep standard springs so will replace only if needed.
Following with interest! Talk about a resurrection- it looked in a right state before you started!
Quote from: Captain Vimes on November 24, 2019, 11:31On to the engine...
Time for an oil and filter change but the sump was covered in rust so we got a 2nd hand one from a breakers(avoided the Ebay copies from China to ensure a good fit) and pulled the sump. While there it gave an opportunity to inspect the crank and big ends (it's got a crank...).
96FB338E-946E-4455-8FFA-7CA877E63FC8.jpeg
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While there we put a new drive belt on as the old one was looking pretty tired. Left overnight for the sealant to cure before firing up with the new oil.
Just wanted to say thanks for the two pics, did mine last week and was a handy guide to know I wasn't putting too much sealant on, and that the underside of my engine looks OK!
With a bit of time over the Easter weekend the Koni install is finally underway.
Front suspension came apart easily (well, nothing broke and everything moved with the right size breaker bar) and fitting the inserts was simpler than I expected as well.
The most time consuming bit was cleaning up the struts with a wire brush and applying some black hammerite before putting it back together again.
The rusty mess that came off.
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Wire brushed and cut down.
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Brushed on hammerite applied.
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Inserts slotted in.
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All rebuilt with koni inside plus new bump stops, dust boots and top mounts.
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The old dampers and top mounts actually seemed to be smooth and despite appearances operating well.
Fronts now refitted and a couple of access holes added so the damping can be adjusted easily.
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On to the rear struts today.
As expected the rear drop links were a stubborn. With the help of a blow torch they're off in one piece and reusable but I'm going to order some new ones anyway while it's in pieces. It'll give me time to sort the struts and let the paint dry before refitting it all.
Jobs list while it's in pieces include:
- replace o2 sensor
- sort out rattling exhaust heat shields
- sort out stiff and squeaky clutch pedal. Unfortunately it looks like it's the clutch fork and access looks challenging! Not looking forward to sorting to that one.
Looking forward to hearing what you think about the konis (whenever that may be!).
Quote from: Captain Vimes on April 12, 2020, 17:12Fronts now refitted and a couple of access holes added so the damping can be adjusted easily.
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On to the rear struts today.
As expected the rear drop links were a stubborn. With the help of a blow torch they're off in one piece and reusable but I'm going to order some new ones anyway while it's in pieces. It'll give me time to sort the struts and let the paint dry before refitting it all.
Jobs list while it's in pieces include:
- replace o2 sensor
- sort out rattling exhaust heat shields
- sort out stiff and squeaky clutch pedal. Unfortunately it looks like it's the clutch fork and access looks challenging! Not looking forward to sorting to that one.
It's doable, you need
A) the car high enough to get in and around there
B) unbolt the slave and move it out of the way (somewhat easier said than done, I didn't like putting stress on the hard line)
C) some suitable grease and some cotton buds - think mine possibly isn't high enough temp rated
D) a bit of dexterity to get the fork seal seated again afterwards
Thanks. I had a poke around today with the car up on axle stands. Looks do-able but awkward. My clutch fork looks very rusty so it may need gearbox removal to do it properly.
Any tips on what might constitute suitable grease?
I used a tub of Wilko bearing grease - I had to do it twice as first time out using a screwdriver as recommended on videos, I was nowhere near where I needed to be (hence cotton buds).
Dick Sloan has mentioned some high temp Honda stuff before, when mine inevitably squeaks again I'll look to get some
Bear with me and I'll dig out some pics
This is the devil (with the red markings on it). I used a cotton bud to wipe away what little was left on there, and then another to really get in there. Helps to wiggle the fork around too
(https://i.ibb.co/KwNT7Vr/IMG-20200118-111031.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NS1cpWy)
Here's why you can't just stick a screwdriver/paintbrush up there. Plenty of grease there but none where it actually needs to be
(https://i.ibb.co/D52Mm1p/IMG-20200118-112055.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6gCtGyB)
That's great thank for the photos!
Jobs done this weekend.
Rear konis installed with new bump stops, dust boots, top mounts and drop links. Not much to see in a picture as it's all hidden but here goes:
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I struggled to find part numbers for top mounts so for reference for others I used:
- Front: Corteco 80001711
- Rear: KYB SM5799
So that's the suspension all sorted now. The old dampers were stamped KYB so not sure if they have previously been replaced or if oem dampers were KYB. Either way, looking forward to driving it now!
It's also had a new O2 sensor, the one in the exhaust not the manifold. I used a Denso DOX 209 which needed the wires cutting/crimping. The crimp connectors supplied with the sensor were great quality.
And finally the clutch is sorted! The clutch fork has some grease on it but most importantly the pedal itself needed adjustment. It was sitting really, really high and had a weird hesitation half way up the travel. Now it's adjusted properly it's so much better.
Another little job was sorting the exhaust heat shield rattle by drilling out and replacing rusted bolts:
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And found the cause of the heated rear window not working was as simple as a blown fuse. New fuse and all sorted.
So that's all the mechanical bits sorted. Next on the list are some cosmetic bits, starting with headlight restoration and then some black leather dye to restore the seat bolster. At this rate I'm going to run out of jobs to do!
Interestingly, that part number for the fronts comes up as Corolla/Celica Gen 7. I wonder if it's another case of Toyota using the same part but changing the number, or if there's any actual difference.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/corteco/2103762
Quote from: Bossworld on April 20, 2020, 09:05Interestingly, that part number for the fronts comes up as Corolla/Celica Gen 7. I wonder if it's another case of Toyota using the same part but changing the number, or if there's any actual difference.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/corteco/2103762
I'd assume it's the same. No point in Toyota making changes to something off the shelf that works perfectly well.
Physically they looked identical to the oem mounts. The only difference is these have sealed bearings instead of open.
Quote from: Captain Vimes on April 20, 2020, 09:40Quote from: Bossworld on April 20, 2020, 09:05Interestingly, that part number for the fronts comes up as Corolla/Celica Gen 7. I wonder if it's another case of Toyota using the same part but changing the number, or if there's any actual difference.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/corteco/2103762
I'd assume it's the same. No point in Toyota making changes to something off the shelf that works perfectly well.
Physically they looked identical to the oem mounts. The only difference is these have sealed bearings instead of open.
Yep they look nigh on identical to the Japanparts/Ashika ones I fitted (RU-2320)
I've finally had a chance to drive the car with the KONI dampers!
I think the biggest compliment I can give them is it feels like a modern car. It soaks up the bumps nicely but also controls the car really well, no floating or vagueness just a nice locked down feeling and a nice balance front/rear. It's exactly what I was looking for.
The dampers have 2 full turns of adjustment. I have them set at 1/2 a turn from fully soft but haven't played with different settings yet. I suspect a slightly firmer setting would be better on a fast run but I really need to set up the geometry and replace the 9 year old tyres before getting bogged down in fine damper adjustment settings.
Very pleased with the purchase.
They are good arent they :D i run same setting as you for normal road use and it works well, it feels a touch softly damped if really pressing on but still controls car body well, setting to 1 full turn from soft gives a noticeable stiffer ride ideal for fast road work but does degrade ride quality slightly, just depends what you prefer most.
So, still very happy with the suspension but what is apparent is that my 125k mile PFL 1zz has a mild drinking problem. Which will come as no surprise to anyone on this forum.
I haven't had to top the oil up yet but it's slowly dropping down the dipstick and with the roof off the odour of burnt oil follows it around :(
I've been looking at options and if I can find a well priced/low mileage 2zz option then it's a no brainer BUT.... the only engines I can find for sale either have over 100k miles or are still in a clean/expensive celica. At which point the hassle and cost factor are too high.
The other option is to buy a high mileage 2zz. But that doesn't appeal either as the block can't be bored/honed without fitting liners. So you either fit a high mileage engine or spend lots more on the swap than makes sense with a full engine rebuild.
In comparison, the 1zz parts from MAG seem well priced: gaskets, main bearings, rings, valve stem oil seals etc all for under £200. The current engine is quiet and runs well (except the drinking habit). So right now the plan is to pull and rebuild the 1zz. Probably wait until the end of summer and just top up oil until then.
Have I missed an obvious cost on the 1zz rebuild? Or a cheaper source if 2zz parts?
2ZZs can run very well with higher mileages. Mine has circa 120K on now, and is sweet as can be.
Mileage is way less important than regular and correct maintenance in my opinion.
Im in same boat mine has started drinking at 105k, i bought the car to 2zz swap initially but after a year of fun at stock power i turbo'd instead, however this highlighted the oil drinking problem so removed it and stupidly probably sold turbo!
Ive now bought a good non-burning 76k mile 1zz from Dick sloan which is planned to go in when i get chance and then pull mine apart to possibly rebuild it, but im still tempted by a 2zz or even buying a ready 2zz car if right one comes along, as you have found most engines out there are high miles which is ok if looked after however most i would say are not these days as the cars became cheaper and fell into hands of people who dont care or understand how complex the 2zz is and needs proper care and servicing, as others have found out its a bit of a lottery and it puts me off!....i missed out on a good known celica 2zz at right money last year which had 120k on but well serviced and running sweet for £700 for whole car! doh
I will probably fit this 1zz unless i find a suitbale 2zz car... or motor! in meantime will just keep this one topped up and enjoy it :D
I haven't really considered buying a replacement low mileage 1zz. There's definitely an appeal to the simplicity but nervous of getting another duffer...
Maybe I'll drop Dick Sloan a message and see what he has.
Yes i was a bit wary of used 1zz but as he is local to me i was able to pop up and view it running in the car before he removed it and pop valvecover off to inspect in there, all seemed good but i wont know for sure until i get it in my car and give it a good run.
My reasoning were its easier and much cheaper to swap it than doing 2zz and i can always rebuild mine if it doesnt work out, as above im also on lookout for a decent 2zz car and was very tempted with Bodgeroos in for sale but didnt fancy taking the risk with its noisy topend, which happening after being rebuilt just sounded like a potential heap of trouble to me.
Dick will keep you right and if you had problems with engine im sure he would help out sorting another/refund etc and not just turn his back like some!
Been in contact with Dick today. He has a face lift engine with 85k on it.
I'm going with that option for exactly the reasons you state: it's the easiest option and Dick seems very honest, so it should all work out OK.
If not then I can always fall back to rebuilding the current engine.
Quote from: Captain Vimes on June 3, 2020, 16:38Been in contact with Dick today. He has a face lift engine with 85k on it.
I'm going with that option for exactly the reasons you state: it's the easiest option and Dick seems very honest, so it should all work out OK.
If not then I can always fall back to rebuilding the current engine.
Sounds like a plan :) , if i dont end up fitting the one ive got from him for whatever reason im sure it will sell on as he has a good rep and isnt just in it for the money like most.
Finally found some time to start on the engine swap today.
11am:
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6pm, with my son looking happy that it's finally out:
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Pretty straight forward. The worst bit was getting the plug disconnected for the crank sensor which is buried right under the inlet manifold and needs two hands where there's only space for a screwdriver! Must have taken an hour of time to figure it out but got there in the end.
Spotted that the exhaust flexi is dead so will replace that while I'm there (if anyone has a standard cat with good flexi that you don't want, let me know).
Just ordered a new replacement cat.I just keep throwing money at this 'cheap car'!
It's going to be mechanically very sound once done.
Hopefully it'll be back in one piece ready for the weekend if the exhaust arrives in time.
Quick update on progress.
New cat and exhaust gaskets arrived today so I was able to bolt it on and fire it up.
All running fine on the drive but can't drive it yet as I need to replace the inner CV boots, which have split with all the moving of driveshafts when taking the engine out.
I ordered a Klarius cat and fitting kit from Partsinmotion (eBay seller). Delivery was really fast and the quality looks good too. There's no heat shields to rattle and it's definitely quieter with a flexi that's not leaking!
This one in case anyone is interested:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333582862561
Gaskets:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333651203255
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You are making excellent progress with this, are we going to see you at ShinDing day in it?
Quote from: Topdownman on July 24, 2020, 08:41You are making excellent progress with this, are we going to see you at ShinDing day in it?
Excellent progress? We've had it for nearly a year and I've only put petrol in it once 😭. The rest of the time it's been on axle stands.
Just kidding. It was always about the project as much as driving it and it's been a good opportunity for my son to get some confidence in mechanics.
Hopefully the work is coming to an end now but I suspect it'll have to be sold soon after to make space for a more insurance friendly first car for my son. Hoping to get a few weeks of fun first though!
Unfortunately we can't make the ShinDing, as we're away but would be good if there was something more local (South East) we could join before it goes.
Thats a shame.
Are you going to get a quote for the 2 just to compare with the other options?
The thing that they have going for them is that there is really no depreciation on a 2. If you were going for a newer small car then adding the depreciation to the newer car may balance things up a bit when comparing insurance.
Of course, they might not actually give a quote for the 2 for him!
Quote from: Topdownman on July 24, 2020, 15:16Thats a shame.
Are you going to get a quote for the 2 just to compare with the other options?
The thing that they have going for them is that there is really no depreciation on a 2. If you were going for a newer small car then adding the depreciation to the newer car may balance things up a bit when comparing insurance.
Of course, they might not actually give a quote for the 2 for him!
We got a quote for the 2 but it was over £6k! He's going to get my late fathers Aygo which is closer to £1k to insure. Not as cool or fun as the 2 but it'll be a better car when his mates want a lift..
Back to the engine swap at last as the CV boots finally arrived today. Got out there after dinner and got them fitted.
The grease that came out of one of them was white and runny. Pleased they've been replaced and fresh, proper grease added.
Again, pretty easy to do. Just drop the trailing arm, brake disc and caliper. Cut the old boot off and it all comes apart. There's a circlip on the end of the shaft so pop that off and slide the bearings off.
Clean it all up, put it back together and re-grease it.
Also bought a new tool for the cv boot clip. Great bit of kit. I love having the right tool for the job!
A few pictures.
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I also replaced the drivers side rear caliper with one from Mr Sloan as the handbrake wasn't great on that side.
Run out of time/light to get it finished. Just need to bleed the new caliper and adjust the handbrake and it's all done. Hoping to get out for a drive tomorrow evening after work!
So the car is all back in one piece. The replacement engine from Dick is a peach. Quiet and there's no smell of oil when driving now!
As promised to my son when we started the project we headed over to the Cardrome in Rainham, which is a private road setup where under 17's can learn to drive. We spent about 1.5 hours practicing clutch control, hill starts reverse parking etc. He loved it and the car performed faultlesly.
My son driving it (finally):
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Suits him! Pleased all is well with the little 2. ;D
I do love threads like this :) one thing to note with regards to engine swaps/removal, the engine loom comes out with the engine rather than unplugging it - you just need to remove a few earth cables and just push the ECU connectors through the firewall and the engine and loom drop as one part.