MR2 Roadster Owners Club

Welcome to my reader's ride thread.

Having had a silver 2 a few years back - and having been through a few other cars since - the 2 is the car I come back to now for a fun/track car. Also a bonus: because of my antics buying cars over the years, my long-suffering wife did not bat an eyelid when I mentioned I would be buying a car I'd never seen off "a guy I met on an internet forum".

Said "internet guy" is of course @shnazzle who has been a delight throughout and a top bloke at that. I am very grateful to him. I'm also very pleased to be in a sable 2. I had of course read his reader's ride thread detailing all of his ups and downs with it, in particular his tuning adventures - what could go wrong! :))

So here it is, offloaded by the Shiply driver at just after midnight.
001 Arriving.png

I gave it a wash... scrubs up decently enough!
002 Washed.png

I compiled a list of things I need to be getting on with (for now):
Immediate

• Check tyres hold pressure - sort/replace if necessary.
• Treat rusty bits.
• Check handbrake and free/sort out.
• Run Cataclean through the car and get it through MOT.

Soon

• If fail MOT: sort it out.
• Full service + belts.
• Chain tensioner o-ring if needed.
• Check if pre-cats are gutted and if not: gut them.
• Refit centre brace.
• Track day.
• Replace weird metal thingy that's rusted through (in the engine bay, it's definitely not structural though).
• Sort out headlight with bad condensation.

Later

• New brake dust covers.
• New ARBs.
• See to heated seat button.
• Check aircon/regas it.
• Wheel refurb.
• Figure out what some other bits do (pictured below).

What is this?
003 Odd thing 1.png

I think this is an oil breather...?
004 Thing two - possibly breather.png

Quote from: MrChris on March 20, 2022, 19:52Welcome to my reader's ride thread.

Having had a silver 2 a few years back - and having been through a few other cars since - the 2 is the car I come back to now for a fun/track car. Also a bonus: because of my antics buying cars over the years, my long-suffering wife did not bat an eyelid when I mentioned I would be buying a car I'd never seen off "a guy I met on an internet forum".

Said "internet guy" is of course @shnazzle who has been a delight throughout and a top bloke at that. I am very grateful to him. I'm also very pleased to be in a sable 2. I had of course read his reader's ride thread detailing all of his ups and downs with it, in particular his tuning adventures - what could go wrong! :))

So here it is, offloaded by the Shiply driver at just after midnight.
001 Arriving.png

I gave it a wash... scrubs up decently enough!
002 Washed.png

I compiled a list of things I need to be getting on with (for now):
Immediate

• Check tyres hold pressure - sort/replace if necessary.
• Treat rusty bits.
• Check handbrake and free/sort out.
• Run Cataclean through the car and get it through MOT.

Soon

• If fail MOT: sort it out.
• Full service + belts.
• Chain tensioner o-ring if needed.
• Check if pre-cats are gutted and if not: gut them.
• Refit centre brace.
• Track day.
• Replace weird metal thingy that's rusted through (in the engine bay, it's definitely not structural though).
• Sort out headlight with bad condensation.

Later

• New brake dust covers.
• New ARBs.
• See to heated seat button.
• Check aircon/regas it.
• Wheel refurb.
• Figure out what some other bits do (pictured below).

What is this?
003 Odd thing 1.png

I think this is an oil breather...?
004 Thing two - possibly breather.png

Yay! 
It does clean up nice :)

I'll answer a few questions... 
- No pre-cats in there. It arrived with me gutted courtesy of @J88TEO.
- aux belt isn't that old. It was replaced maybe 15k miles ago? Used a quality Gates belt. 
- tensioner o-ring is one of Carolyn's viton rings. Should be good. Unless you've spotted a leak
- the odd thing; I mentioned this a while back, but in your defense, it was a while back... My bad. In the footwell you ll have found the original "carbon cannister". It takes fuel vapour from the fuel tank and stops the tank from pressuring. This vapour is then fed through the cannisyer and into that blue valve.
When I replaced the alternator (about a few hundred miles ago), I had to take that cannister and mount out, and it snapped a bolt. Instead of drilling the bolt out, I just added those filters you see. The right side goes into a metal filter which has carbon in it. Hence it doesn't smell. Then to the black motorbike filter.
On the valve side, I just added a cheap fuel filter to stop crap being sucked into the intake. 
- headlight condensation is just from standing/not being used. Drive around with the lights on and it'll go. Or remove the rear boot and get a hair dryer in.
- I've actually got two little heated seat buttons I was going to replace the stock ones with because I couldn't find a replacement for the life of me. I'll send them over in the package that's due.
- Center brace on the way. Note; can you please keep the little rails that has the clips on it? I need that back :)

Quote from: shnazzle on March 20, 2022, 20:09Yay!
It does clean up nice :)

I'll answer a few questions...

Brilliant thanks! Although this goes to show what a top bloke you are: you have told me a couple of those things and... yes it was a while a go but I should have remembered!

I've crossed out some of the things on my list now. I forgot to add "install a roll bar" but I'm sure I'll get around to it eventually.

I'll keep hold of the rails with clips on and send it in the post.

Working this week so minimal progress until next weekend now.  :(

Best laid plans and all that...

I've got the 2 up on axle stands earlier and took the wheels off to get a good look around. I adjusted the handbrake and it seems okay however... I've now decided to do the following prior to the MOT:

• New subframe - there's a hole in it  :'(
• ARBs front and back with new drop links.
• Treat / get new arms (various).
• Put baffled sump on as existing one is leaking.
• Refurbish calipers - at least 2 at the back, one of them is sticking.
• New front A-arms.
• Refurb springs... not sure if this is possible.
• Check hard brake lines, replace if necessary.
• Put on braided brake lines
• Engine flush and new engine oil + filter
• New brake fluid
• Probably: new radiator and coolant flush
• Take as much stuff off underneath and treat for rust and cross fingers that no welding is required.

Once all that is done then I'll put it through the MOT as I figure there's no point driving it around if something's going to fall off on me.

Is this an MOT fail/advisory (all of them are like this)? Can the springs be refurbed (e.g. wire brush or something)? Can I replace the springs only?
005 Rusty springs.png

This is the subframe underneath:
007 Underneath subframe.png

This is the front - hopefully just some wire brushing and rust treatment required:
006 Rusty front underside.png

I'll get this old whippet in to shape.

Looks about right. 
Couple surprises... Hole in the subframe??? That frame has done less than 50k miles! If that. Sure it isn't just surface rust and a drain hole? 

Springs can be replaced. But quite frankly, I'd replace the suspension. The dampers are tired and no longer at their best. New springs, while looking prettier, might be false economy. Hence I was looking to replace with Koni inserts (I have two used struts to chop and 2 quite fresh top mounts if you're interested). 

A-arms, definitely. I got some just before lockdown and then never fitted them, as never drove it again. 

Engine flush really shouldn't be necessary. It's always had top notch oil 2x a year. Up to you of course. 

Caliper refurb. Yup. I did my best with them last time but the pins are a bit pitted. With the car standing it probably seized again. Seemed to brake fine though. 
These are the original calipers, so they owe me/you nothing. 

Yeah I was able to put my finger through the darker part to the right of the picture, lot of flaky bits flaking off. It's in the recessed bit underneath the subframe and above where the exhaust is. I'll double/triple check and get the wire brush on it when I've got more time. Maybe I can get away with it for now?

I reckon I might have a go at the sliders first then... might be okay. Not sure if worth going for 4 new calipers or not...? Most are from refurb places anyway so am thinking I might as well refurb them myself.

A-arms I've heard Yaris ones are the ones to go for? Not sure on this though.

Not sure on the suspension just yet. Would be good to get it going first and see how I get on and replace them later if I can. I wonder whether I can rub down the springs to make it look better for the MOT?  :))

It's never failed MOT before and it's been much the same for a good few years now. The BC springs rust very quickly. I remember when I first moved to this house, 6 years ago, I had the car up and I remarked to Helen on how surprised I was at the amount of rust.

The sale add for the a-arms that went to Nvy is still viewable. Should have the part number on it. You need to get the right ones. Yaris or Scion from the US. 
I forgot who bought them. @Nvy I think. He may be able to confirm they're 100% right by now

Come to think of the brakes... I didn't get to the rears. I had a set of EBC yellowstuff for the rears. I was going to put those on, clean the brakes and fit the spacers. Lockdown hit.
So, I did the fronts (hence the new discs and fresh yellowstuff pads) but not the rears. Give the pins a go with some fine sandpaper and plenty ceratec. But a refurb kit is only 35gbp...

For the springs, can always give them a brush and a coat of black hammerite haha.

Decided to go for a refurb kit on the brakes so they'll get new pistons etc. Is there anything particular needed for the mechanism where the handbrake connects to does anyone know?

I'm going to swap the sumps over and spend a few hours wire-brushing everything at the weekend. There's loads of flaky metal but it seems to me like it's potentially underseal that is flaking off. Things seem generally solid as far as I can tell. So I've got a load of rust converter and other bits to help prevent rust so I'm happy to chuck it through the MOT once these bits are done (I think).

My only big concern is the sub-frame, I could probably get it through the MOT, especially with the rear nappy on but question is: should I?

Post up a pic of the subframe above the exhaust.

Okay here we go.

First shot establishes the scene :D
01 subframe.png

Second shot a bit closer showing the area.
02 subframe.png

Third shot with the grommet taken out.
03 subframe.png

Final shot after I stuck my finger in there (a big old chunk fell out).
04 subframe.png

Ffs I can't believe that. Its not even that old and this is not a high rust area!

Seems to me like the subframes would be better without those grommets? I'm guessing it's trapped in a fair bit of water over time.

Quote from: MrChris on March 22, 2022, 12:21Seems to me like the subframes would be better without those grommets? I'm guessing it's trapped in a fair bit of water over time.

Yeah, it's puzzled me too. Toyota could have treated it inside & made it a sealed unit.  The addition of bungs afterwards is strange to my thinking.

Unlucky. Get a couple of tins of your favourite release agent & hopefully you have access to heat.

Quote from: Gaz mr-s on March 22, 2022, 12:38Yeah, it's puzzled me too. Toyota could have treated it inside & made it a sealed unit.  The addition of bungs afterwards is strange to my thinking.

Unlucky. Get a couple of tins of your favourite release agent & hopefully you have access to heat.

I'm guessing a new subframe is in order then!

I've got a heat gun, penetrating fluid and a very hefty impact wrench so... yeah hopefully this won't be too painful. I guess I can refurb/rebush a bunch of the arms etc. underneath while I'm at it and get to any other areas that might need some treatment.

Good luck with the nuts and bolts!
One of mine was rusted solid and no amount of heat and penetrating agent would shift it!

Quote from: J88TEO on March 22, 2022, 15:26Good luck with the nuts and bolts!
One of mine was rusted solid and no amount of heat and penetrating agent would shift it!

Last time I did the subframe everything came off without even so much as a breaker bar. The bolts don't see much water at all and they're not threadlocked.

Most suspension bolts came off when I did the clutch a few years ago. Didn't need any heat or anything. Everything came off fine.

But...hell..i thought the subframe was solid so... 

On another note; JSpec @J-SPEC just advertised that they have a load of good rear calipers in stock.

If you don't know JSpec, you soon will. 

Quote from: MrChris on March 22, 2022, 11:45Okay here we go.



Final shot after I stuck my finger in there (a big old chunk fell out).
04 subframe.png

Scary :(

@MrChris said:

Is there anything particular needed for the mechanism where the handbrake connects to does anyone know?

Some members have used these Rubber gaiters for cable end( MG part)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113230491760?hash=item1a5d103070:g:SnkAAMXQUmFSphV6

Quote from: shnazzle on March 21, 2022, 19:38Looks about right.
Couple surprises... Hole in the subframe??? That frame has done less than 50k miles! If that. Sure it isn't just surface rust and a drain hole?

You could be right but I had an 06 55k miles that had a holy subframe.
And tbh where you live in the country won't have don't it any favours.
And you actually drove it places.

Quote from: 1979scotte on March 23, 2022, 09:34You could be right but I had an 06 55k miles that had a holy subframe.
And tbh where you live in the country won't have don't it any favours.
And you actually drove it places.

It does look like it's been parked in the sea at some point   :o   :))

Got under it again earlier at lunch as the sun is shining and I found more rubber grommets where water/moisture has been collecting under the seats/footwells. I think it can mostly be saved with my wire brush and rust converter.

Not really sure in the point of all these rubber bungs I'm finding that seem to be at the lowest parts of the metal structures, unless it's to stop ingress of water from the road in to the cabin (instead of other way round).

I've been managing to get under the car for about an hour each evening before it gets dark. Today was particularly productive as I've nearly got the subframe out. Will save me lots of time for the weekend.

First off a package from @J-SPEC arrived courtesy of @shnazzle. Any ideas what bolts I need to attach this? I should look to see if the ones I need are already under the car too...:
20220324_190502.jpg

 I call this "weight saving":
20220324_184233.jpg

All bolts off the subframe. I literally just need to split the ball joint thingies on a couple of the arms and it'll slide right out. Only one bolt sheared off and that was one to hold the ABS cable so no biggie. Others were relatively fine! My impact hammer/wrench thing is incredible. Also helps that @shnazzle seems to have used anti-seize on the bolts.
20220324_184551.jpg 

The bolts for that brace are where they're supposed to be.
I remembered to put them back at about 6:45 the night of its collection haha!

I did indeed use a fair bit of anti-seize over the last few jobs. Glad it helped 

The bolts are M8 x 1.5  15mm long.

Glad the bolts are there, cheers!

@Carolyn this is why I love this forum!

I need to remove these still. Do I need a special tool to separate or can I wang on it with a hammer until it pops out (yes I have already undone the nut on the other side)?
Screenshot 2022-03-24 205516.png

Invest in a ball joint separator - faily cheap. I bought one when doing my Lexus struts.

Quote from: J88TEO on March 25, 2022, 08:42Invest in a ball joint separator - faily cheap. I bought one when doing my Lexus struts.

Something like this: Amazon splitter thingy (https://www.amazon.co.uk/DAYUAN-Separator-Extractor-Remover-Splitter/dp/B07QQ12RPC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1WD8NNRURERHB&keywords=ball+joint+separator&qid=1648202764&sprefix=ball+joint+separator%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-3) ?

Quote from: MrChris on March 25, 2022, 10:09Something like this: Amazon splitter thingy (https://www.amazon.co.uk/DAYUAN-Separator-Extractor-Remover-Splitter/dp/B07QQ12RPC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1WD8NNRURERHB&keywords=ball+joint+separator&qid=1648202764&sprefix=ball+joint+separator%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-3) ?

Yes...

Quote from: J88TEO on March 25, 2022, 10:13Yes...

Thanks it's just I've never had one of these tools, the last time I needed to separate a ball joint on a car I hit it with a big hammer but I'd like to be a bit more sympathetic with the 2! Hopefully this fits, reasonably inexpensive and arrives today.

Quote from: shnazzle on March 21, 2022, 20:14It's never failed MOT before and it's been much the same for a good few years now. The BC springs rust very quickly. I remember when I first moved to this house, 6 years ago, I had the car up and I remarked to Helen on how surprised I was at the amount of rust.

The sale add for the a-arms that went to Nvy is still viewable. Should have the part number on it. You need to get the right ones. Yaris or Scion from the US.
I forgot who bought them. @Nvy I think. He may be able to confirm they're 100% right by now

Come to think of the brakes... I didn't get to the rears. I had a set of EBC yellowstuff for the rears. I was going to put those on, clean the brakes and fit the spacers. Lockdown hit.
So, I did the fronts (hence the new discs and fresh yellowstuff pads) but not the rears. Give the pins a go with some fine sandpaper and plenty ceratec. But a refurb kit is only 35gbp...

For the springs, can always give them a brush and a coat of black hammerite haha.

I got them just last Saturday but can check if there is a part number or anything on them. Wont install them for a while.

Going back a few posts but rear caliper slider pins are only about £2 each from Toyota (yes I was surprised too!)

Guessing the ol' girl is off to the crusher's by now?

Sad really. I was still happily hooning around in it not long ago.
It definitely didn't seem end-of-life. But then I can't remember the last time I had the front bumper off, and that hole in the subframe will always puzzle me. Only thing I can think is that the subframe I replaced the original with had a shitty repair job hidden under that paint. 

Funny to think how many hours I spent on/under that car. End of an era.

Quote from: shnazzle on June 18, 2022, 21:56Guessing the ol' girl is off to the crusher's by now?

Sad really. I was still happily hooning around in it not long ago.
It definitely didn't seem end-of-life. But then I can't remember the last time I had the front bumper off, and that hole in the subframe will always puzzle me. Only thing I can think is that the subframe I replaced the original with had a shitty repair job hidden under that paint.

Funny to think how many hours I spent on/under that car. End of an era.

Not so fast @shnazzle the car is still on jack stands but she's getting there!

I've not had a huge amount of time to work on the car, and when I have had spare time it's generally been raining. Here's where we're at anyway:

• Handbrake cables are about as free as I can get them. I must have poured a good half a bottle of machine oil down each one  :))
• New calipers are on, just need bleeding.
• Speaking of calipers, the retaining bracket for the handbrake on one of the old calipers has a buggered bolt which I need to get off somehow (or buy a new bracket).
• I'm awaiting a new gasket kit for the cat and then will try and get it back together properly as it's clearly not sealed properly.
• The plastics and nappies need fixing on properly.
• The brace underneath needs to be put on.
• Reattach the rear control arm ball joints (pain in the arse) and then try and syringe some grease in.
• Clean out the spider that has tried to take over the inside, take it somewhere to get a full alignment and try and get it through an MOT.

I've had two comments from neighbours about when the wheels are going on so I'd better get a move on  :-[

I had the engine running today and it's all good. As for my previous post about the corrosion around the radiator.. it seems fine, so I may get a couple of plates welded in some time in the future.

It's thrown up far (far, far) more issues than I thought it would and time just isn't on my side. Bit disappointing as I wanted to get back in to MR2ing sooner than later, but I shall prevail.

Edit: regarding the subframe, it's been patched which should hold for a while. But yeah thoroughly rotten in the classic place just above the exhaust.

One little victory... The bracket for the handbrake cable is off. Dremel plus hammer did it. The screw rusted good and proper... Picture shows where I cut the top off.

20220621_192014.jpg

Small update:

Rear brakes on, bled and handbrake appears to be working - pedal feels a little spongy so a rebleed may be in order.

Managed to get ball joints on with new nuts and an extremely thorough clean of all threads (works wonders).

Car cleaned, new oil in. All plastics back on except for nappies (may just leave these off).

Went to lower the car back on to it's wheels but noticed the subframe was not on properly on one side. Looks like bolts are threaded so have some on order from J-SPEC. Once this is sorted, the car can get back on its wheels finally and then it's time for 4 wheel alignment and an MOT (and a celebratory picture).

Edit: the calipers are now RED! :D

So pleased to hear it

Back on the ground and ready for its MOT on Tuesday, wish me luck...

Final things to do are to work out why the driver's side seat rocks forward under braking (passenger's does not) and figure out why passenger window switch doesn't work. Hopefully both simple things.

Drive is in a bit of a state after oil changing/sump changing/Dinitrol :o

20220709_111657.jpg

Quote from: MrChris on July  9, 2022, 11:23Back on the ground and ready for its MOT on Tuesday, wish me luck...

Final things to do are to work out why the driver's side seat rocks forward under braking (passenger's does not) and figure out why passenger window switch doesn't work. Hopefully both simple things.

Drive is in a bit of a state after oil changing/sump changing/Dinitrol :o

20220709_111657.jpg

Window switch:  I take it you don't have it turned off?

Quote from: Carolyn on July  9, 2022, 11:51Window switch:  I take it you don't have it turned off?

That is a good question as there are about 3 switches in the car and I don't know what they do. Thanks!

Wrt the seats; maybe possible I didn't align the rails properly when I swapped the seats?
Try loosening the bolts and then pulling the handle. Maybe it's just slightly out of alignment. It usually means the holes don't line up, which they definitely did,but worth a shot.

Quote from: shnazzle on July  9, 2022, 17:52Wrt the seats; maybe possible I didn't align the rails properly when I swapped the seats?
Try loosening the bolts and then pulling the handle. Maybe it's just slightly out of alignment. It usually means the holes don't line up, which they definitely did,but worth a shot.

Checked that, your alignment is all good :) I took the seats out to have a good look, on the picture where I've circled in red is the mechanism where the handle locks and unlocks the rails. This has play in it to varying degrees across all four rails, the drivers side being the worst. Any idea how this can be adjusted without dismantling the seats?

20220709_181915.jpg

Quote from: MrChris on July  9, 2022, 18:52Checked that, your alignment is all good :) I took the seats out to have a good look, on the picture where I've circled in red is the mechanism where the handle locks and unlocks the rails. This has play in it to varying degrees across all four rails, the drivers side being the worst. Any idea how this can be adjusted without dismantling the seats?

20220709_181915.jpg

Never heard of that being adjustable. Had a look at the manual and that shows nothing.

It might also have to do with the reclining lever, as the rails unlock when you put it in recline.

I can't remember these seats doing that when they were in Helen's car. Just asked Helen and she said that same (she spent all the time in those seats). Which points to an install issue. Does it seem to do it with the seats out of the car?

Quote from: shnazzle on July  9, 2022, 19:05Never heard of that being adjustable. Had a look at the manual and that shows nothing.

It might also have to do with the reclining lever, as the rails unlock when you put it in recline.

I can't remember these seats doing that when they were in Helen's car. Just asked Helen and she said that same (she spent all the time in those seats). Which points to an install issue. Does it seem to do it with the seats out of the car?

Yeah it's more pronounced in both seats when out of the car. I wonder if some sort of circlip would work? Basically the things circled red are held in with some kind of pin so would be a pain to get out. A circlip type thing could fill the gap I'd imagine.

Quote from: MrChris on July  9, 2022, 19:20Yeah it's more pronounced in both seats when out of the car. I wonder if some sort of circlip would work? Basically the things circled red are held in with some kind of pin so would be a pain to get out. A circlip type thing could fill the gap I'd imagine.

Worth a shot!
I've definitely had it in other mr2s (and mine, but not those seats) where I've moved the seat and I didn't latch it properly and it clicks into place when I accelerate or brake. But the seat lunging forward is new to me.

Maybe the spring has lost tension? 

Quote from: shnazzle on July  9, 2022, 19:24Worth a shot!
I've definitely had it in other mr2s (and mine, but not those seats) where I've moved the seat and I didn't latch it properly and it clicks into place when I accelerate or brake. But the seat lunging forward is new to me.

Maybe the spring has lost tension?

Not really sure, it's definitely the whole base rather than the reclining bit and it's definitely not clicking into the runner. I wonder if the pins can be squeezed together a bit more? It's just allowing some movement and it's pronounced under braking due to the additional force involved.

Well it failed the MOT...  :'(

Bit of a mixed bag, and a couple of embarrassing ones:

1) Both rear brake pipes were not connected to the calipers properly and therefore leaking. Whoops, totally my fault.
2) The classic "parking brake efficiency below requirements" - could be related to the first point and therefore it's not properly adjusted. The cables are definitely moving so hopefully fix 1, then readjust the handbrake and fix 2...
3) Windscreen washer not working - could be low on fluids or is broken. Easy fix either way.
4) Coil spring on off-side front is broken.
5) It has more than 1 VIN number across different panels. Never had this before. Tester advised to scrape off the ones that don't match the actual VIN.

Never done suspension work before so would be keen for suggestions on how to easily, quickly and cheaply fix the suspension before my 10 days is up for a retest.

Also is it possible to test the handbrake efficiency at home?

Of course, the upside to all of this is that everything else is great :D

Bugger! 
The VIN panel will be the door that I replaced. Didn't even know it was on there. 

Quote from: shnazzle on July 12, 2022, 09:42Bugger!
The VIN panel will be the door that I replaced. Didn't even know it was on there.

Yeah and on the boot lid. Will be easy enough to sort out.

I'm really unsure what to do about the spring. I know the suspension is old, but I didn't really want to splash out just yet. I'm wondering if I can replace the spring with one from BC? Maybe I need to do a pair? Do you know the spec of the coilovers so I can source the correct spring?

Didnt think the door had a VIN plate on! Knew the VIN was on the door pillar, but never on the door - how strange.

Would have thought it shouldnt be on there for just that reason - parts can be swapped, so should be on a panel that cant be removed from the car!

Quote from: MrChris on July 12, 2022, 09:51Yeah and on the boot lid. Will be easy enough to sort out.

I'm really unsure what to do about the spring. I know the suspension is old, but I didn't really want to splash out just yet. I'm wondering if I can replace the spring with one from BC? Maybe I need to do a pair? Do you know the spec of the coilovers so I can source the correct spring?

Ah yeah I swapped the bootlid. Twice haha. That reminds me to maybe scratch out the one on our current car.

BC sells. Springs separately for sure. They are 4/6kg I chose, not the 5/7. But you can go for those of course if you want to replace all 4

Quote from: shnazzle on July 12, 2022, 10:18Ah yeah I swapped the bootlid. Twice haha. That reminds me to maybe scratch out the one on our current car.

BC sells. Springs separately for sure. They are 4/6kg I chose, not the 5/7. But you can go for those of course if you want to replace all 4

Okay I'm just on to them now to see about a replacement.

Am I wasting my money do you think by only replacing the spring? Should I do it as a pair? Should I get all 4 springs redone? Should I just get totally new suspension? I don't really know how to tell if the suspension is past its best..?

We've all got different budgets.
Personally I would replace all of the front suspension.
It's the labour that costs.

Quote from: 1979scotte on July 12, 2022, 10:30We've all got different budgets.
Personally I would replace all of the front suspension.
It's the labour that costs.

I don't mind doing the labour myself as I've done everything else so far... just never done suspension. Thing is I've got coilovers so really I'm in for a full set, rather than just the front, and therefore knocking on for 1k in suspension parts alone.

Really want to keep the cost down for now, I just want to be able to drive it with a view to upgrading/updating later.

If I went back to stock suspension am I really saving all that much?

I would be happy just changing one spring while you decide what you want to do with the suspension. It is certainly OK to do that for MOT purposes. I would be more worried about changing dampers in pairs than springs personally.

Just my opinion though, I am no expert!

(PS I should mention I have a set of coilovers for sale which I think are 5/7 springs should you want to splash out!).

@MrChris
I've just replaced the front shock absorbers with KYB, repainted the OE springs, and replaced the dust covers. On the rear I had to remove the shocks to check the dust cover condition, these were almost as new! Touched up the paint on the springs and replaced all.
I don't follow your reasoning that you need replace front and rear because you have coil overs!

As @Topdownman said If I was undecided I would change just one spring as a very temporary measure, but as both springs are of the same age and suffered more or less equally I would  change springs in pairs for a longer lasting fix.

@MrChris
A PS to the above having read another of your posts explaining your MOT situation.
I would replace the one spring, obtained from the coil over supplier.
Removing the assembly is likely not so different from an OE assembly.
The top mount is angled and needs to be placed correctly. I painted a mounting screw head for location relative to the body mount.

Below the arch you will need to remove the brake hose / shock fixing and the ABS bracket. Remove the top mount fixings and then the two large nuts and drive out Carefully) the fixing bolts.
Spring compressors are needed to remove and replace the spring.
Tighten / torque the top shock nut before refitting. I held the top mount in a vice, it won't torque up on the car.
Replacement is a reversal of the removal and located by your paint mark. Put the top nuts on loosely and then lift the shock to replace the bolts, Nuts to rear.
Tighten the top mounts tighten the strut bolts and the torque up the assembly and replace the removed brackets.
The cable handbrake operation is dependent upon the hydraulic cylinder position.
Tightening the hard lines will help!
If this alone does not work, check the free movement of the cables. If OK then have a look at @Carolyns How To on here.
If that does not work  I suggest removing the pad carrier and pads and resetting the piston by screwing it in( special tool needed) fully and then out a full turn to leave the slot in a N/S position.
Screwing in the piston will determine if the piston is stuck or not.
( Mine were well and truly stuck and I considered refurbishing the calipers but decided on replacements at £75 each, although I did refurb the fronts, following the How To on here.)
Replace pads and carrier.
Then follow the How To again.
Having read much about handbrake operation on here I am of the opinion that you will be chasing your tail if you don't follow that procedure.
Let us know how you get on.

I have a box full of springs for BC BR's - which to be honest... I'll never use again as I no longer have a BR suspension.

I honestly couldn't tell you the spring rates as they came with the car - however imagine they'll be at the stiffer end of things..... However, for the cost of postage, I'm happy to send a couple. Or if you're near the west coast of Scotland.

Quote from: AJRFulton on July 13, 2022, 11:46I have a box full of springs for BC BR's - which to be honest... I'll never use again as I no longer have a BR suspension.

I honestly couldn't tell you the spring rates as they came with the car - however imagine they'll be at the stiffer end of things..... However, for the cost of postage, I'm happy to send a couple. Or if you're near the west coast of Scotland.

That is very generous of you, thank you. I'm in the West Midlands so it would be difficult to pick up though I'd love a drive up to Scotland :)

Please can you let me know what postage is and I can ping you the cost? I'll pop a donation to the club too.

I'll have a look tonight

Rightio a bit of an update:

- 2x banjo bolts now have new copper washers. When I took them off each one only had 1 washer :o Will bleed them later and attempt to readjust the handbrake for the 100th time.
- Non-matching VIN numbers scraped off.
- Screen wash topped up and what do you know? It works just fine  :-[

In answer to some previous comments:

@Topdownman I if I'm going to spend in the multiple 100s I'd probably just go new but thanks for pointing them out.

@Joesson Looks like @AJRFulton may be able to sort me out with a couple of new fronts. If so hopefully that will sort the front suspension for MOT and get me on the road. Having spoken with @shnazzle he advised the following:
1) undo 3 top mount screws
2) undo 2 big bottom bolts on body, leave top one in.
3) undo the top mount bolt
4) lift car to relieve pressure off spring
5) remove the big bottom bolt and pull strut out

This then hopefully negates the need for using spring compressors.

As for the handbrake I've followed @Carolyn guide and watched a couple of YouTube videos. I sincerely hope it's just the fact there's air in the system due to the banjo bolts leaking. The cables are moving back and forth.

The handbrake works off a worm drive and pinion kind of system directly pushing the piston from inside, I'm reasonably confident it's unaffected by any air in the system.

@MrChris
Banjo bolts need two washers and sometimes a special crush washer, ask me how I know!
I read of @AJRFulton 'S very kind offer.
Can't comment on the removing springs without spring compressors and maybe coil overs are somewhat different, never tried that, but please be aware there is potential energy in a compressed spring.
You will also need to compress the spring to get it back on again. Make sure you are not in line of fire!

As previously, if the caliper pistons  are not in the correct starting position you may be disappointed.

Quote from: Joesson on July 13, 2022, 17:24@MrChris
Banjo bolts need two washers and sometimes a special crush washer, ask me how I know!
I read of @AJRFulton 'S very kind offer.
Can't comment on the removing springs without spring compressors and maybe coil overs are somewhat different, never tried that, but please be aware there is potential energy in a compressed spring.
You will also need to compress the spring to get it back on again. Make sure you are not in line of fire!

As previously, if the caliper pistons  are not in the correct starting position you may be disappointed.

Ye of little faith. You use the car to compress the spring! Haha

Mind, this trick does not work on stock front suspension. Not enough space for the uncompressed spring to come out with the strut. Works fine on the rear.

Also this trick is not sanctioned by any mechanic :) But... I reckon it's a lot safer than a few spring compressors I've used!

Also... Coilovers springs are about the same length under pre-load as they are unloaded. Whether that's a good or bad thing, I'll let your spine decide

Quote from: Call the midlife! on July 13, 2022, 17:07The handbrake works off a worm drive and pinion kind of system directly pushing the piston from inside, I'm reasonably confident it's unaffected by any air in the system.

Except that it won't pump out the piston properly if it's spongy.

Quote from: Carolyn on July 13, 2022, 17:39Except that it won't pump out the piston properly if it's spongy.

I always thought the handbrake was fully mechanical with the worm drive but I suppose it makes sense with the official operating instructions.

Well the dodgy strut/spring is out. Having trouble unwinding part of it but I suppose that's to be expected. I *think* the damper is "okay". The spring was severed right through though and under no compression whatsoever, though I did use your method @shnazzle :) As for my coilover spanners, they're utterly useless for these BCs  >:(

(https://i.ibb.co/S0gJGBN/IMG-20220713-222046.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S0gJGBN)

I'm assuming the last number is spring rate?

If you could measure dimensions to confirm they are the same?

As an alternative to postage, I'm heading down to Dover next Saturday. If there is an M6 service station nearby?

Weight wise these are maybe 2.5-3kg each. Postage won't be crazy

Quote from: Call the midlife! on July 13, 2022, 17:41I always thought the handbrake was fully mechanical with the worm drive but I suppose it makes sense with the official operating instructions.

Reminds me of this post.
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?msg=786930

Quote from: AJRFulton on July 13, 2022, 22:23(https://i.ibb.co/S0gJGBN/IMG-20220713-222046.jpg) (https://ibb.co/S0gJGBN)

I'm assuming the last number is spring rate?

If you could measure dimensions to confirm they are the same?

As an alternative to postage, I'm heading down to Dover next Saturday. If there is an M6 service station nearby?

Weight wise these are maybe 2.5-3kg each. Postage won't be crazy

That's a lot of springs!

Diameter.length.spring rate is the decoding of the numbers.

62.180.005 and 62.200.007 would be the boyos.

10kg for hardcore track :) 

@AJRFulton
Wot @shnazzle said, fronts i need are 62.180.xxx - so the 005s should be ideal.

I'd prefer postage if that's okay as I need to get them on in time for MOT retest.

I'll get these packaged up tonight and sent off tonight or tomorrow. Not sure of the exact weight, but we'll be talking about a tenner postage.

I'll give you 2x 62.180.005 - given I only use my car on track, and I'd consider them stiff road springs, I would never use them anyway so.... they'll just be lying there forever. Condition wise, I'd imagine they are near new, I've never used them - just been in a damp garage for a few years. Powder coatings flaked away in a couple of bits and minor surface rust on them - you might want to treat them before putting them on.

PM me your address or the nearest Yodel store if you prefer.

Quote from: AJRFulton on July 14, 2022, 09:49I'll get these packaged up tonight and sent off tonight or tomorrow. Not sure of the exact weight, but we'll be talking about a tenner postage.

I'll give you 2x 62.180.005 - given I only use my car on track, and I'd consider them stiff road springs, I would never use them anyway so.... they'll just be lying there forever. Condition wise, I'd imagine they are near new, I've never used them - just been in a damp garage for a few years. Powder coatings flaked away in a couple of bits and minor surface rust on them - you might want to treat them before putting them on.

PM me your address or the nearest Yodel store if you prefer.

I've sent you a PM with my address, absolute lifesaver!

So I've got the top mount off the shock, it was not budging yesterday, so have just whacked it with a hammer and it fell off. Lots of rust, the bearings are pretty bad but they move in the top mount - am thinking I can pump some grease back in to help them after giving a good wash out with something like WD40?

The rest of the shock needs a bit of clean but I'm absolutely astonished that the shock absorber seems fine. It compresses smoothly and returns smoothly. Watched a YouTube video on how to test shock absorbers and the movement is basically the same. Astonishing for shocks as old as these.

Quote from: MrChris on July 14, 2022, 12:06I've sent you a PM with my address, absolute lifesaver!

So I've got the top mount off the shock, it was not budging yesterday, so have just whacked it with a hammer and it fell off. Lots of rust, the bearings are pretty bad but they move in the top mount - am thinking I can pump some grease back in to help them after giving a good wash out with something like WD40?

The rest of the shock needs a bit of clean but I'm absolutely astonished that the shock absorber seems fine. It compresses smoothly and returns smoothly. Watched a YouTube video on how to test shock absorbers and the movement is basically the same. Astonishing for shocks as old as these.

Equally flabbergasted. Maybe it was the springs that needed replacing. I always thought the struts were past best

Quote from: MrChris on July 14, 2022, 12:06So I've got the top mount off the shock, it was not budging yesterday, so have just whacked it with a hammer and it fell off. Lots of rust, the bearings are pretty bad but they move in the top mount - am thinking I can pump some grease back in to help them after giving a good wash out with something like WD40?

I'd wash them thoroughly with petrol.  Yes petrol - get all the old dry grease out and force in plenty of fresh grease.  you don't want the bearings sloppy.  If, by 'pretty bad- you mean tight, then clean and re-grease will be fine.  If you mean loads of play - they're done.

Quote from: Carolyn on July 14, 2022, 13:44I'd wash them thoroughly with petrol.  Yes petrol - get all the old dry grease out and force in plenty of fresh grease.  you don't want the bearings sloppy.  If, by 'pretty bad- you mean tight, then clean and re-grease will be fine.  If you mean loads of play - they're done.

Well they were tight when I first tried to move them, then I pumped some WD-40 in and they started spinning. Thinking I might get away with them.

Is it wise to use 5kg springs on front and back? There's usually a 2kg differencr between the two.

Unless the rears are bad, in which case just replace both rears with 5kg,which should be OK. 

Quote from: shnazzle on July 14, 2022, 16:42Is it wise to use 5kg springs on front and back? There's usually a 2kg differencr between the two.

Unless the rears are bad, in which case just replace both rears with 5kg,which should be OK.

Sorry not sure what you mean? The idea is to replace both fronts with 5kg ones that AJR is sending and leave the rears for now as they should be fine.

Quote from: MrChris on July 14, 2022, 16:53Sorry not sure what you mean? The idea is to replace both fronts with 5kg ones that AJR is sending and leave the rears for now as they should be fine.

Ah OK sorry. 
Cool. Bit stiffer but ultimately what the struts were made for 

Small update: put some new rear pads on which also let me wind in the pistons and then out one full turn. Ready for rebleed and another hand brake adjustment.

@Carolyn  i got my wires crossed regarding the top mounts, i was describing some kind of race below the top mount. The top mount bearing itself was fairly stuck as it happens so used your technique of using petrol and i also threw in some plusgas for good measure. Its moving much mote freely now. I will try and clean it some more after I've cooled down then pump some grease in.

Hopefully the springs will be with me tomorrow and I'll have a fresh ticket this week.

Two packages have arrived since last update, the springs from @AJRFulton and a pack of odds from @shnazzle - thank you both!

The springs are on, the car is almost ready for its MOT retest tomorrow. But I'll be damned if I can get the handbrake set....

- The driver side wheel with handbrake on seems okay. It doesn't budge when I try to move the wheel.
- The passenger side (which I thought was the better side) does not hold - i.e. I can move the wheel with my hands.

I have used all the tricks on the forum. The cables are moving. The handbrake works... a bit. If I adjust too much then the brakes drag. If I let off the adjustment, the passenger side moves... arg!

@Mr Chris
Did you reset the caliper pistons?

Quote from: MrChris on July 20, 2022, 20:09Two packages have arrived since last update, the springs from @AJRFulton and a pack of odds from @shnazzle - thank you both!

The springs are on, the car is almost ready for its MOT retest tomorrow. But I'll be damned if I can get the handbrake set....

- The driver side wheel with handbrake on seems okay. It doesn't budge when I try to move the wheel.
- The passenger side (which I thought was the better side) does not hold - i.e. I can move the wheel with my hands.

I have used all the tricks on the forum. The cables are moving. The handbrake works... a bit. If I adjust too much then the brakes drag. If I let off the adjustment, the passenger side moves... arg!

Makes me wonder. The handbrake worked surprisingly well before I left it sitting over winter with the handbrake on. So that suggests the cables aren't stretched (beyond serviceable use anyway).

If the cables are moving, that then suggests the mechanisms on the calipers have seized.
One of the last things I did was free them up with Plusgas until I could move the lever arms with my hands. That was a few days before it went to you.
Which then leaves the pistons themselves and/or the slider pins. I haven't done anything with them. They needed replacing soon. I cleaned them up with some fine sand paper and re-lubed them when I last did the brakes, but they were pitted.
As a final attempt I would
- hand brake Off. Make sure front wheels are on wheel blocks and passenger rear lifted.
- take the caliper off the carrier completely (don't need to disconnect brake line again).
- If you have to hammer it off, you know what the issue is! If not, check the slider pins for easy movement and add ceratec
- take the pads out and check that they refit easily into the clips. If not, remove clips and use small file to file the notches flat so that the clips sit nicely and the pads just drop in without resistance.
- and lastly, wind the piston out, apply grease, wind in, wind out, grease, wind in. Fit pads and caliper.
- turn on engine, make sure hand brake is still off
- press brake a good few times until it feels solid
- hold brake
- pull handbrake.

Sounds like a lot but should be doable in about 30-45min

Quote from: shnazzle on July 20, 2022, 21:07Stuff

Thanks, I did just drive it down the road to try and bed in the brakes a bit. The calipers are brand new and they were wound fully in and then out one full turn, they also have new pads. The mechanisms seem fine to me.

The car is holding better than it did after doing some adjustment... I'm taking some spanners with me to the MOT station... fingers crossed.

Well bugger. It failed on the handbrake. Everything else is fine. The failure was "Parking brake efficiency less than 50% of the required value".

I've attached the brake test report. It's actually worse than the previous one where I achieved 12% efficiency (vs 8% now) and 55kgf (left) and 73kgf (right) on the other test. The brakes themselves seem fine and well balanced (unless I'm not reading the report properly). So I'm starting to think it's now time for new cables afterall...  :'(

Edit: so I've worked out through MATHS and GOOGLE that the target (or minimum) efficiency is 16% which is 16% of the vehicle's weight which is 1060kg. So my target is 169.6kgf. Still think it may be time for new cables though. Had a look at them again and the right one (which is the better one) moves way more than the left one...

20220721_114905(1).jpg

I see 120 kg ish per side on a handbrake working correctly when moting mr2s.
It is VITALLY IMPORTANT that the nipples on the back of the pad goes into the slot on the piston.
I would check that 1st or it will never be much good.
The levers on the calipers (cable attaches to) Must rest against the stop pin when handbrake released.
If either of these are not correct it will forever be crap.

Easy to check no parts required.
ps I never have had to wind the piston back out to meet the pad. Wind all the way in, make sure nipple in hole, pump the brakes hard, then set the handbrake cable bingo sorted.

Quote from: mr2garageswindon on July 21, 2022, 15:57I see 120 kg ish per side on a handbrake working correctly when moting mr2s.
It is VITALLY IMPORTANT that the nipples on the back of the pad goes into the slot on the piston.
I would check that 1st or it will never be much good.
The levers on the calipers (cable attaches to) Must rest against the stop pin when handbrake released.
If either of these are not correct it will forever be crap.

Easy to check no parts required.
ps I never have had to wind the piston back out to meet the pad. Wind all the way in, make sure nipple in hole, pump the brakes hard, then set the handbrake cable bingo sorted.

Thanks for the insight, really useful. 120kgf per side - it's what dreams are made of  :))

I'll give all of this a go before getting the new cables!

Quote from: mr2garageswindon on July 21, 2022, 15:57I see 120 kg ish per side on a handbrake working correctly when moting mr2s.
It is VITALLY IMPORTANT that the nipples on the back of the pad goes into the slot on the piston.
I would check that 1st or it will never be much good.
The levers on the calipers (cable attaches to) Must rest against the stop pin when handbrake released.
If either of these are not correct it will forever be crap.

Easy to check no parts required.
ps I never have had to wind the piston back out to meet the pad. Wind all the way in, make sure nipple in hole, pump the brakes hard, then set the handbrake cable bingo sorted.

Would you mind just clarifying something for me?
"The levers on the calipers (cable attaches to) Must rest against the stop pin when handbrake released."
As in, the crank arms must be on the stop pins prior to taking up the slack and then applying the adjustment.
As once the slack is taken up and adjustment applied to obtain 5-8 clicks the crank arms will no longer be returning to the stop pins.
Or,
Pump the brakes, set the cable (5-8 clicks) and still the crank arms should rest on the stops when released?

The crank arms must rest on the pins after cable adjustment.
1 loosen off hb cable.
2 wind back pistons make sure nipple aligns with piston cut out. (You can do 1 at a time)
3 pump the brakes hard
4 adjust the cable allowing a small amount of free play before it actually pulls cable. (Check crank arms on pins still)
5 Test hand brake.
6 Smug feeling its fixed, cuppa and MOT re test.

Glad the springs arrived ok bud. Glad somebody is getting use of them - been sat on a shelf for 4yrs

Hopefully the ride is fine with them.

Quote from: mr2garageswindon on July 22, 2022, 09:26The crank arms must rest on the pins after cable adjustment.
1 loosen off hb cable.
2 wind back pistons make sure nipple aligns with piston cut out. (You can do 1 at a time)
3 pump the brakes hard
4 adjust the cable allowing a small amount of free play before it actually pulls cable. (Check crank arms on pins still)
5 Test hand brake.
6 Smug feeling its fixed, cuppa and MOT re test.

Thanks for the point by point - I've used it to check everything.

1) Cable was loosened
2) My nipples are aligned (!)
3) Pumped
4) Adjusted
5) Hand brake is still next to useless

I've repeated the steps several times. I've even adjusted the cable to it's absolute maximum and it still doesn't hold. I went to a steep hill round the corner and  the only way I can get the handbrake to hold the car is to pull on it with both hands and my bodyweight behind it. When using normally, the cables do move... but so does the car. This can only mean one thing? Stretched cables? Any other ideas? Such a shame as the rest of the car is golden.

I can't be bothered looking back through the thread, what are the calipers and pistons/piston seals like?
If you can get someone to work the handbrake lever for you while you watch the pistons you should see movement, just bear in mind we're talking about a few mm not half an inch.
If the cables are properly adjusted and working the levers on the calipers then it points to the internals not driving the pistons out to me.

Quote from: Call the midlife! on July 31, 2022, 13:46I can't be bothered looking back through the thread, what are the calipers and pistons/piston seals like?
If you can get someone to work the handbrake lever for you while you watch the pistons you should see movement, just bear in mind we're talking about a few mm not half an inch.
If the cables are properly adjusted and working the levers on the calipers then it points to the internals not driving the pistons out to me.

The calipers and their corresponding pistons/seals are new. These ones in fact:
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ridex/16147532 (https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ridex/16147532)

I'd be very shocked if these weren't working, which is why I'm now thinking the handbrake cables are stretched.

Is there any difference between pulling the handbrake whilst braking and just pulling the handbrake? 

Quote from: MrChris on July 31, 2022, 13:50The calipers and their corresponding pistons/seals are new. These ones in fact:
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ridex/16147532 (https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ridex/16147532)

I'd be very shocked if these weren't working, which is why I'm now thinking the handbrake cables are stretched.

Your complete process seems to be what I did although my calipers were from another source.
The new caliper pistons, as supplied , were screwed right in and backed off to position the caliper cut out with the pad , I checked this to be sure.
The pumping bit I believe is also very important as this moves the piston and pad towards the disc for the correct starting position.
From that position I then adjusted the cable length from inside the car to give six clicks to hard on.
This was checked by trying to rotate the locked wheels by hand.

I have read on here that replacing cables has cured a poor handbrake but have not been able to understand why that can be the case other than if only one cable is stretched.
If both cables stretch to the same degree then it should make no difference to the braking operation as the adjustment, as checked by the angularity of the cable link bar, is equal for each side.

Quote from: shnazzle on July 31, 2022, 14:28Is there any difference between pulling the handbrake whilst braking and just pulling the handbrake?

What am I looking for?

I've left it alone for now as I've had some other bits to do. Will try and get to it later.

Quote from: Joesson on July 31, 2022, 14:42I have read on here that replacing cables has cured a poor handbrake but have not been able to understand why that can be the case other than if only one cable is stretched.
If both cables stretch to the same degree then it should make no difference to the braking operation as the adjustment, as checked by the angularity of the cable link bar, is equal for each side.

Hmm well the cables do not pull equally, to start with they do, but as I adjust more and more the bar gets more sideways. Though I've read and seen YouTube videos that suggest this isn't necessarily a problem as long as the cables move.

This is an absolute dark art it seems to get these working. Even if one cable is stretched and the other isn't, shouldn't there be reasonable braking performance still?

Quote from: MrChris on July 31, 2022, 16:48Hmm well the cables do not pull equally, to start with they do, but as I adjust more and more the bar gets more sideways.

A garage replaced my nearside cable, but the cable didn't last long (non OEM) and went stiff. The result was exactly what you describe. Both cables have now been replaced (OEM in my case), and pull on equally.

I also had new discs as the offside disc was corroded therefore affected handbrake efficiency. If one side doesn't hold, the other may not make up for it, or work either.

@MrChris said:

Hmm well the cables do not pull equally, to start with they do, but as I adjust more and more the bar gets more sideways. Though I've read and seen YouTube videos that suggest this isn't necessarily a problem as long as the cables move.

This is an absolute dark art it seems to get these working. Even if one cable is stretched and the other isn't, shouldn't there be reasonable braking performance still?


To my thinking if when you adjust the cables one moves more than the other that must mean that there is more resistance to movement on the side that is moving less?

My understanding is that the cables are coated, with Teflon I believe, this should mean that lubrication is unnecessary, but these cables are around twenty years old.
Lubricating, to help free them up has been spoken of on here, and maybe that could help, unless you've already done that.
My thoughts are based on what I've read on here about the problem, the How Too on here and my recent own experience- When I expected the worst but didn't find it.

Changing the cables seems to be something not to undertake unless you have exhausted other possibilities, but when you do something and it doesn't work, and you try again several times, there has to be a point at which enough is enough.

Quote from: Joesson on July 31, 2022, 20:26Changing the cables seems to be something not to undertake unless you have exhausted other possibilities, but when you do something and it doesn't work, and you try again several times, there has to be a point at which enough is enough.

Agreed, think I'm there!

As for cables, some places do not have the facelift cables in stock. Are all after market cables really that bad? There's a selection on Autodoc for example from a few manufacturers.

Quote from: MrChris on July 31, 2022, 22:09Agreed, think I'm there!

As for cables, some places do not have the facelift cables in stock. Are all after market cables really that bad? There's a selection on Autodoc for example from a few manufacturers.

I do not know, but I find it difficult to understand why another brand of cable should be very different to a Toyota branded cable.
I believe I'm correct in saying that Toyota do not make steel cable, coat it and put it into an outer casing, that will be done by another company, maybe one that also supplies Autodoc, who do have a good selection of parts for our cars. Only downside is their delivery time, but it is what is is and I worked around it.
Not so different to the tale of our Oxygen sensors.
When I first had my 2, before I was a Member on here, I asked  a motor engineering relative about replacing a dud.
Only buy branded sensors was his advice, and he favoured Bosch products and they can be replaced individually.
Since that conversation I have bought, on two separate occasions, two NGK sensors. I have those and an OE Denso in my car. No problems.

PS
Iirc TCB an affiliate on the Forum offers the best price for Toyota brake cables tel:01579 20383879

Quote from: Joesson on August  1, 2022, 09:03I do not know, but I find it difficult to understand why another brand of cable should be very different to a Toyota branded cable.
I believe I'm correct in saying that Toyota do not make steel cable, coat it and put it into an outer casing, that will be done by another company, maybe one that also supplies Autodoc, who do have a good selection of parts for our cars. Only downside is their delivery time, but it is what is is and I worked around it.
Not so different to the tale of our Oxygen sensors.
When I first had my 2, before I was a Member on here, I asked  a motor engineering relative about replacing a dud.
Only buy branded sensors was his advice, and he favoured Bosch products and they can be replaced individually.
Since that conversation I have bought, on two separate occasions, two NGK sensors. I have those and an OE Denso in my car. No problems.

PS
Iirc TCB an affiliate on the Forum offers the best price for Toyota brake cables tel:01579 20383879

Thanks I tried TCB but they only have PFL in stock currently. I've gone for some Autodoc ABS cables. What could go wrong. I know it's against general advice but I also do tend to agree with how hard can it be to create some cables? Interestingly on Autodoc they had cables for PFL and FL with different lengths and manufacturing months/years.

Quote from: MrChris on August  1, 2022, 11:45Thanks I tried TCB but they only have PFL in stock currently. I've gone for some Autodoc ABS cables. What could go wrong. I know it's against general advice but I also do tend to agree with how hard can it be to create some cables? Interestingly on Autodoc they had cables for PFL and FL with different lengths and manufacturing months/years.

ABS is the brand of the rear drop links that I got from Autodoc, visually much the same as the OE links that I replaced.

Quote from: MrChris on July 31, 2022, 22:09Agreed, think I'm there!

As for cables, some places do not have the facelift cables in stock. Are all after market cables really that bad? There's a selection on Autodoc for example from a few manufacturers.

They're not as good as Toyota, I've been burned by experience.

https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=65220.msg764884#msg764884

The ones currently fitted exhibit behaviour similar to what you've said (the equaliser pulls straighter than your description, but there's definitely less effort on one side).

Suspect my Mum's going to end up going for a pair of Toyota ones come the next MoT, which would mean 3 cable changes in 6 years.

I've said before on other threads, but I used BluePrint cables back in 2017.

Zero issues since (correctly) fitting them. I park off road, and in gear, with the handbrake off 98% of the time.

Quote from: Alex Knight on August 10, 2022, 16:17I've said before on other threads, but I used BluePrint cables back in 2017.

Zero issues since (correctly) fitting them. I park off road, and in gear, with the handbrake off 98% of the time.

I suppose the flip side is that no one (to my knowledge) has reported issues after fitting replacement genuine ones. As more of the remaining MR2s on the road hit the 20 year mark, it seems likely more will need cables replacing.

Dick fitted both sets for me so I trust his skill and knowledge, I just didn't have the money for the Toyota cables at the time. Was definitely a mistake when I went for the first set (billed as being the same 1999-2006).

Finally: MOT pass with no advisories. Celebratory top-down drive on the way back and a picture below why not.

And for those wondering about after-market handbrake cables. The ABS cables I ordered from Autodoc got me through this test. The clips they came with were a bit iffy but a combination of turning them around and/or re-using old clips did the trick.

Big thanks to all those that have provided advice and parts!

Mr2.jpg

Great to see the old girl with a new lease of life.

Yeah, great to see her back on the road, and I'm sure you're happy she is too.

Quote from: Carolyn on September  5, 2022, 14:12Great to see the old girl with a new lease of life.

Quote from: tricky1138 on September  5, 2022, 14:50Yeah, great to see her back on the road, and I'm sure you're happy she is too.

Absolutely! Quite satisfying to get everything done myself. I very nearly chucked it at a garage to do the cables but glad I persevered. Shame that I couldn't get it finished in time for the nice weather as it seems we're now due a fair bit of rain for the next couple of weeks.

I had additional bolts fighting me throughout the cable replacement. But I've got confidence in the work I've done. Next thing is for a 4 wheel alignment given that I've had all the arms off at the back. Then time to enjoy it and see if I can fit in a track day to give it a proper shakedown (though this may wait till next year now due to time constraints).

Yay!
Very pleased it's up and running.
Credit to you Chris for sticking it out.
I dread to think how many times you cursed my name haha!

But I'm genuinely happy to see the ol beast being used again. 

Quote from: shnazzle on September  5, 2022, 21:19Yay!
Very pleased it's up and running.
Credit to you Chris for sticking it out.
I dread to think how many times you cursed my name haha!

But I'm genuinely happy to see the ol beast being used again.

Hah, not at all, while it has been a little more work than expected it's certainly kept me occupied and taught me loads. I feel like I've done the worst jobs on the 2 now, which kind of feels good! Drives pretty well and is a joy to get in to after being in our electric Kona.

Small update:

Four wheel Hunter alignment done. They found a 'nub' missing on the subframe on one side of the adjuster bolts. I think it rusted through but they managed to get a good alignment.

Adjusted the coilivers, the car is pretty firm! Handles amazingly well though.

Bought a new radiator but the one in there looks pretty good so I don't think it's worth changing.

Last but not least: Bedford autodrome booked for the end of the month. Will get some pics up here after.

Quote from: MrChris on September  9, 2022, 15:49Small update:

Four wheel Hunter alignment done. They found a 'nub' missing on the subframe on one side of the adjuster bolts. I think it rusted through but they managed to get a good alignment.

Adjusted the coilivers, the car is pretty firm! Handles amazingly well though.

Bought a new radiator but the one in there looks pretty good so I don't think it's worth changing.

Last but not least: Bedford autodrome booked for the end of the month. Will get some pics up here after.

Looking forward to seeing its first track outing.
You're treating the car better than I did. Kudos and bravo.
Couldn't have sold it to a better person. You could probably have bought it from a better person but hey ho LOL

Certainly curious about what "nub" on the subframe would have anything to do with alignment.

Quote from: shnazzle on September  9, 2022, 17:23Looking forward to seeing its first track outing.
You're treating the car better than I did. Kudos and bravo.
Couldn't have sold it to a better person. You could probably have bought it from a better person but hey ho LOL

Certainly curious about what "nub" on the subframe would have anything to do with alignment.

There's a small protrusion on the subframe either side of the cam plates that gives the lateral movement on the arm.
When you turn the nut/bolt the cam plate works against the "nubs", a technical tap will also work but be more awkward to get precision.😂

Quote from: Call the midlife! on September  9, 2022, 17:30There's a small protrusion on the subframe either side of the cam plates that gives the lateral movement on the arm.
When you turn the nut/bolt the cam plate works against the "nubs", a technical tap will also work but be more awkward to get precision.😂

Ah yes! I can picture them 

Quote from: shnazzle on September  9, 2022, 17:23Looking forward to seeing its first track outing.
You're treating the car better than I did. Kudos and bravo.
Couldn't have sold it to a better person. You could probably have bought it from a better person but hey ho LOL

Certainly curious about what "nub" on the subframe would have anything to do with alignment.

Thanks! To be honest I had the impression that you had treated it well! The engine seems strong and have been out in it again today. I think the only real problem is that it was pretty crusty in places, though that's now sorted.

Quote from: MrChris on September  9, 2022, 21:01Thanks! To be honest I had the impression that you had treated it well! The engine seems strong and have been out in it again today. I think the only real problem is that it was pretty crusty in places, though that's now sorted.

80% of its life it was pampered.
Fuchs Titan oil every 6k, new filters and plugs and run on vpower pretty much exclusively.
So in that sense, yeah it was treated very well. But as you said, the bodywork became secondary. Which is funny as the first few years I had that thing gleaming constantly. Polished, waxed, sealed. 
After some time of blasting b-roads the bumper and bonnet became more and more pebble-dashed and washing/polishing became a bit of a "polishing a turd" exercise.
The custom interior (which you didn't get of course) brought back a lot of its glory. But by that time the suspension and bodywork were getting tired, and my tinkering left some errr..lasting marks.
It got a new subframe, interior, radio, suspension, exhaust, wheels, bracing, exterior styling, and ecu tinkering so it definitely had a LOT spent on it over the years. But it was genuinely used, and used hard, and loved. I absolutely adored that car. It was a huge part of my life and my sanity.
I'll always remember it fondly. Which is why I'm so pleased to see it "resurrected".
Why sell then? That car was pretty much me. I was me when I was in it and it felt like home. It brought comfort, a smile on a shit day.
But that faded. Then lockdown hit and it never left the drive. I found comfort in other things and the car was just sitting there reminding me of what was, but will never be again.

:) there go you. A tale of my car for the history books haha
Not asked for, or wanted, but provided anyway 

I love that history about it, although did you just call my 2 a "turd"?  ;)

Given this is mainly a track toy I'm not bothered about the panels, though they were far, far better than I was expecting. The underside will just need looking at now and then, and somehow the suspension is still okay. I even think I might get away with refreshing the bearings and it'll carry on.

But yes, great to hear about it's history (and there's obviously plenty more on the forum too). Do you still have a 2 or have you got rid of that one as well? If so, surely you'll be back to a 2...?? I was thinking the other day, for something I can throw round a track without worrying about it, that is mid engined and rear wheel drive, what else comes close to a 2 for the price?

Quote from: MrChris on September 10, 2022, 00:04I love that history about it, although did you just call my 2 a "turd"?  ;)

Haha! I never thought of it that way. I do apologise! A turf it is not

Quote from: MrChris on September 10, 2022, 00:04...  not bothered about the panels, though they were far, far better than I was expecting.

Maybe I was just picky. I actually found some pics of it yesterday from years ago and the panels were like mirrors. That was the standard. Not really feasible to be kept that way the way it was driven on b-roads and as a daily.

Quote from: MrChris on September 10, 2022, 00:04... and somehow the suspension is still okay.

I'm equally shocked. I was sure they were done.
 

Quote from: MrChris on September 10, 2022, 00:04Do you still have a 2 or have you got rid of that one as well? If so, surely you'll be back to a 2...?? I was thinking the other day, for something I can throw round a track without worrying about it, that is mid engined and rear wheel drive, what else comes close to a 2 for the price?

No more 2s in this household at the minute sadly. Needs must.
Better times will come and then who knows. It's a gorgeous platform with an unbeatable value money. And it's very close to my heart.

 :) keep going love the history of this 2 and all the love and work done it 8)
its a great feeling when big jobs are done a mot pass then a big happy drive afterwards 8)

keep at and most important enjoy it 8) 

Small update prior to track day 1:

Couldn't stop thinking that the rear springs could snap easily. So off they came and new ones installed, fresh from BC Racing this time. It seems I'm taking the "Trigger's broom" approach to my suspension, as I tested the rear shockers and they are also good. So I've ordered new top mounts and pillow ball bearings for the front as well.


(https://i.ibb.co/89F5K97/new-coil.jpg) (https://ibb.co/89F5K97)


And of course, I had to cut off the old drop links because this 2 loves to fight me on absolutely everything. Big shout out to TCB for supplying these next day delivery!

(https://i.ibb.co/4WM8DYM/droplink.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4WM8DYM)

So with all that out the way, this car better perform faultlessly all day.

Everybody gets to cut rear drop links off.

Quote from: Carolyn on September 23, 2022, 17:33Everybody gets to cut rear drop links off.

I never did across 3 mr2s  ;) 

It's getting colder, it's getting wetter but the weather held out for my first track day in this 2 at Bedford Autodrome yesterday.

The track started out fairly damp and the 2 was squirming about on the sighting laps. Soon after, the sun started to shine (a bit) and cars going round started drying the track out. I started off fairly gingerly given I have never driven a 2 on track, but by the end of the day I was utterly abusing the poor thing. It's so much fun and has so much grip. Adjusting the coilovers towards 'hard' made a huge difference in the handling. I ended up 8 clicks from hard (front) and 12 clicks from hard (rear) and probably could have gone further with this. The LSD in the 2 is a revelation having previously done track days with my 130i (with no LSD).

The owner of the blue 2 said he had been a fairly diehard Mk1 / Mk2 fan and "hated" the Mk3, but bought one for his Mrs as a runabout. He started driving the Mk3 and found he loved it due to the handling so had brought it out on track.
(https://i.ibb.co/N2DT2Pp/mr2bedford.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N2DT2Pp)

This picture I may have to remove, but this corner before the main straight was a lot of fun. By the end of the day I was drifting the 2 round this corner, holding on the limit and powering through to the straight. This was a huge amount of fun.
(https://i.ibb.co/WVHk9rT/mr2bedford2.png) (https://ibb.co/WVHk9rT)

The car took the punishment all day like a champ, morning, afternoon and 2 full tanks of fuel. The only problems were fuel starvation at the end of the day where I didn't realise the fuel had got so low, a sharp right-hander sloshed it all away from the fuel pump. The other thing was the brake pedal wasn't engaging the brakes until it had nearly hit the floor. Not sure if this is air in the system or the brake fluid boiling (though it had RBF600 in it).

I'll be assessing the car more fully at the weekend and checking over the brakes etc. But in summary: it is such a fun car, highly recommended!

And finally: huge thanks again to everyone on the forum that's helped, suggested, advised, sent parts, I will certainly "pay it forward" where I can.

Get in!!
Freakin sweet

Quote from: shnazzle on September 27, 2022, 12:48Get in!!
Freakin sweet

 >:D

I cannot believe how well the BCs performed too. They're getting some new bearings soon, but the dampers are still good. I'll just replace those as and when they actually fail. I met a guy there with a 300bhp Nissan 370z, when I saw him later in the day he said he wished he had a light car like my MR2  ;D

Quote from: MrChris on September 27, 2022, 10:18The only problems were fuel starvation at the end of the day where I didn't realise the fuel had got so low, a sharp right-hander sloshed it all away from the fuel pump.

If you're going to do a lot of this track stuff, you want to be careful about oil pressure on right-handers too.  Especially long right handers.  The oil can go the the left hand side of the pan and uncover the scoop in the sump.  Result a spun bearing or two!  Make sure you keep the oil level right up.

Did I include the extra baffled sump or the OEM sump?
I'm pretty sure I put the one that Carolyn modified in the passenger footwell 

Quote from: shnazzle on September 28, 2022, 15:31I put the one that Carolyn modified in the passenger footwell

That might help on the long right handers. Would you move it into the driver's footwell for the left handers? Sounds like a faff to me.

Quote from: Carolyn on September 28, 2022, 12:04If you're going to do a lot of this track stuff, you want to be careful about oil pressure on right-handers too.  Especially long right handers.  The oil can go the the left hand side of the pan and uncover the scoop in the sump.  Result a spun bearing or two!  Make sure you keep the oil level right up.

I absolutely plan to do more track driving! Interestingly, the fellow owner of the blue 2 said he had recently replaced spun bearings on his 2. Fairly bodge job he seemed to be saying but he was amazed that the engine just continued to work. I don't personally know what is involved as I've not done that sort of work before but he did seem to suggest it was quite easy work? :o

Quote from: shnazzle on September 28, 2022, 15:31Did I include the extra baffled sump or the OEM sump?
I'm pretty sure I put the one that Carolyn modified in the passenger footwell

Yup you did include the baffled one, the OEM was already installed. Swapping them over was one of the first jobs I did. Gives a lot of peace of mind and very glad it was there.

@cptspaulding  ;D

@MrChris:  Dropping the pan and swapping out a couple of spun bearings is fine- until you damage the big end of the con-rod or the surface of the crank.  Best to avoid it.  The quick fix with standard shells will get you by, but remember you've just dumped metal into the oil and round your engine. 

Quote from: MrChris on September 28, 2022, 16:00I absolutely plan to do more track driving! Interestingly, the fellow owner of the blue 2 said he had recently replaced spun bearings on his 2. Fairly bodge job he seemed to be saying but he was amazed that the engine just continued to work. I don't personally know what is involved as I've not done that sort of work before but he did seem to suggest it was quite easy work? :o

Yup you did include the baffled one, the OEM was already installed. Swapping them over was one of the first jobs I did. Gives a lot of peace of mind and very glad it was there.

@cptspaulding  ;D

Replacing spun bearings with the engine out and on a stand is tricky enough to do right, doing it right with the engine in place and dropping the pan is a massive pain in the rear, especially if you can't get it on a lift.
You need a fair degree of competence either way and if you "bodge" them you stand as much chance of them spinning or knocking the first turn of the key.

@Carolyn @Call the midlife!  - I guess I will be treading very carefully then if I'm ever in that situation (hopefully not).

In other news, went out to have a look at the brakes to see if anything was leaking and noticed bubbles in the master cylinder. Am thinking it might be done.

Very small update. As per my maintenance thread, my brakes are slightly better than they were but I've not got a solid pedal.

Next steps are to try bleeding again. Failing that I will try and double check things like the brake booster.

Had some goodies show up from BC Racing today. 2 sets of bearings for the front shocks. I'm hoping this should make quite the difference because the existing bearings are pretty much shot. They look and feel great anyway:


(https://i.ibb.co/thwRCmJ/bearingstopmount.jpg) (https://ibb.co/thwRCmJ)

Weekend in the Yorkshire dales, rain and fog spoiled the views somewhat but still enjoyable. Brakes still not perfect, one or two quick pumps while driving and the pedal feels as it should, definitely some air still in the system then.

Car performing well otherwise.


(https://i.ibb.co/wMVZMYR/20221029-101149.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wMVZMYR)

Quote from: MrChris on November  2, 2022, 21:34Weekend in the Yorkshire dales, rain and fog spoiled the views somewhat but still enjoyable. Brakes still not perfect, one or two quick pumps while driving and the pedal feels as it should, definitely some air still in the system then.

Car performing well otherwise.


(https://i.ibb.co/wMVZMYR/20221029-101149.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wMVZMYR)

It's well familiar with those roads :) 

Quote from: MrChris on November  2, 2022, 21:34Weekend in the Yorkshire dales, rain and fog spoiled the views somewhat but still enjoyable. Brakes still not perfect, one or two quick pumps while driving and the pedal feels as it should, definitely some air still in the system then.

Car performing well otherwise.


(https://i.ibb.co/wMVZMYR/20221029-101149.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wMVZMYR)

Many years ago, I fitted a set of brand new Tarox grooved discs to my ST205 GT-Four.

I had terrible problems trying to get a good pedal, and bled the system many, many times. It didn't work.

I put the old discs back on in desperation and the pedal feel was immediately back to form all the time.

It turned out that the brand new discs were warped very, very slightly and causing pad knock off.

Quote from: Alex Knight on November  6, 2022, 08:29Many years ago, I fitted a set of brand new Tarox grooved discs to my ST205 GT-Four.

I had terrible problems trying to get a good pedal, and bled the system many, many times. It didn't work.

I put the old discs back on in desperation and the pedal feel was immediately back to form all the time.

It turned out that the brand new discs were warped very, very slightly and causing pad knock off.

Now that is interesting... I believe the fronts on mine are newish discs and the rears are quite old (drilled and grooved).

One thing I have noticed is the car is diving to the left sometimes under braking, making me think the front calipers are past there best. The rears have been replaced recently.

Quote from: MrChris on November  6, 2022, 20:33Now that is interesting... I believe the fronts on mine are newish discs and the rears are quite old (drilled and grooved).

One thing I have noticed is the car is diving to the left sometimes under braking, making me think the front calipers are past there best. The rears have been replaced recently.

I also had an issue way back in circa 2013/14 with my car diving to the left under braking. After much investigation it was traced to a goosed damper (I can't remember which side), so bear in mind it's not always related to brakes.

Quote from: Alex Knight on November  7, 2022, 16:58I also had an issue way back in circa 2013/14 with my car diving to the left under braking. After much investigation it was traced to a goosed damper (I can't remember which side), so bear in mind it's not always related to brakes.

Thanks, good to know... was hoping my dampers would last a bit longer. Going to start with the brakes first, got a rebuild kit on the way including new pistons. Hopefully this will resolve the brake issue first!

Had a look at the brakes today. Offside front had clearly seen better days.


(https://i.ibb.co/82CCSNt/20221119-142230.jpg) (https://ibb.co/82CCSNt)

Replaced the piston and boot with new. Test drive revealed a moderate improvement in braking. Need to do the other side for sure.

Also found that the rear pads are not moving particularly freely in their mounts so I will need to clean them up.

But yes... Progress. The car is definitely braking better, stronger and I can rule out the shock absorber being at fault too.

Time for an update: a very, very cold day at Donington.

There was a late start due to ice and sub-zero temperatures (which didn't really improve until after midday). The organiser was gritting the track and trying to melt the ice.

Red flags were a relatively constant feature of the day and I ended up leaving early due to a number of factors, one being the driving standards. The time I had out was enjoyable though.

As for the car:
Doesn't miss a beat really.

Great fun as always, love rotating it round the corners and the great balance.

Tyres are still the same ones that came with it when I bought it off @shnazzle - they've got plenty of life left but I'm learning that the Dunlop Sport Maxx on the rear are abysmal when they have no heat and struggle in the wet, resulting in the rear stepping out quite a bit.

My next track day will be a warmer one and I plan on getting some AD08Rs at some point. Hoping these will help the general track holding of the car.

Suspension seems to be holding up well, it's all been refurbished including new bearings and springs (as detailed in my previous posts). I'm really surprised the dampers are still going, I might look to replace these later this year, but if it ain't broke...

Brakes are good, Yellowstuff pads are still going! Refurbished/new calipers inspires confidence though I've still got a bit of mushyness in the pedal, going to have to spend some more time bleeding, possibly get a new master cylinder just to rule that out (though I'll be damned if I can find one for sale that's not left-hand drive?!).

Really starting to feel like I need more power as too many things were overtaking me on the straights. Corners: not so much. Chatted to a nice chap with a GT86 - a car I've been eyeing up as a potential successor to my MR2 - he advised to stick with the MR2.

Where are my manners? Here's some pictures  ;D


(https://i.ibb.co/NY58YCS/donington-1.png) (https://ibb.co/NY58YCS)(https://i.ibb.co/DYXVrdq/donington-2.png) (https://ibb.co/DYXVrdq)(https://i.ibb.co/xDMdv7r/donington-3.png) (https://ibb.co/xDMdv7r)

Warms the cockles that does.
Thanks for posting

Insane how little body roll it has. 

Quote from: shnazzle on January 24, 2023, 21:13Warms the cockles that does.
Thanks for posting

Insane how little body roll it has.

Yeah it's so flat through the corners, the guy in the 86 (with coilovers, corner weighted and a remap :o ) said he was struggling to get past until he got to the straight and even then it was a struggle. Amazing that the cars are 10 years apart.

Quote from: MrChris on January 24, 2023, 20:55Time for an update: a very, very cold day at Donington.

There was a late start due to ice and sub-zero temperatures (which didn't really improve until after midday). The organiser was gritting the track and trying to melt the ice.

Red flags were a relatively constant feature of the day and I ended up leaving early due to a number of factors, one being the driving standards. The time I had out was enjoyable though.

As for the car:
Doesn't miss a beat really.

Great fun as always, love rotating it round the corners and the great balance.

Tyres are still the same ones that came with it when I bought it off @shnazzle - they've got plenty of life left but I'm learning that the Dunlop Sport Maxx on the rear are abysmal when they have no heat and struggle in the wet, resulting in the rear stepping out quite a bit.

My next track day will be a warmer one and I plan on getting some AD08Rs at some point. Hoping these will help the general track holding of the car.

Suspension seems to be holding up well, it's all been refurbished including new bearings and springs (as detailed in my previous posts). I'm really surprised the dampers are still going, I might look to replace these later this year, but if it ain't broke...

Brakes are good, Yellowstuff pads are still going! Refurbished/new calipers inspires confidence though I've still got a bit of mushyness in the pedal, going to have to spend some more time bleeding, possibly get a new master cylinder just to rule that out (though I'll be damned if I can find one for sale that's not left-hand drive?!).

Really starting to feel like I need more power as too many things were overtaking me on the straights. Corners: not so much. Chatted to a nice chap with a GT86 - a car I've been eyeing up as a potential successor to my MR2 - he advised to stick with the MR2.

Where are my manners? Here's some pictures  ;D


(https://i.ibb.co/NY58YCS/donington-1.png) (https://ibb.co/NY58YCS)(https://i.ibb.co/DYXVrdq/donington-2.png) (https://ibb.co/DYXVrdq)(https://i.ibb.co/xDMdv7r/donington-3.png) (https://ibb.co/xDMdv7r)

Good to see this car finally being driven properly  :P

Quote from: cptspaulding on January 24, 2023, 21:28Good to see this car finally being driven properly  :P

... In a legal setting... 

Exactly 1 year to the day and I've still got this 2! Previously I was changing cars more than my underwear...

So I thought I'd give a little summary of all work to date. I also gave it a blast out earlier today to celebrate ;D

March 2022
Installed baffled sump
Full service including oil and all filters.

April 2022
Subframe welded and replaced.
Refurbed rear control arms installed.
Full underbody rust treatment and prevention.
2 new rear calipers installed.

June 2022
Rear subframe bolts replaced.

July 2022
MOT failure x2 :(

September 2022
Replacement of rear springs from @AJRFulton.
Replacement of front springs from BC Racing.
Full refurb of front suspension top mounts from BC Racing.
New rear anti-roll bar links.
MOT passed with no advisories!
4-wheel Hunter alignment.

January 2023
Brake fluid replaced with Motul RBF 600.

March 2023
Replaced 2x front calipers and carriers/sliders.
New rear discs installed.
Gearbox oil change.
Full service with all filters.

Various 2022/23
New pads as and when required.
Air filter cleaning and oiling as and when.
Bought a radiator (because one went pop on my old 2) but still to be installed as this one seems good so far.

It's been a little bit of a rollercoaster this one. And I do believe @shnazzle thought it was destined for the scrapper at one point too. After all the work I must say that it has been worth it. Yes, it was quite (very) cheap but I've learned a hell of a lot along the way. It's now running pretty much perfectly as far as I can tell (touch wood) and it's standing up to repeated track days and trips when the weather is good.

My original plan for the car was to get something cheap as a track hack. It's certainly fulfilled that role but I've not been on as many track days as I'd have liked, mainly on account of it being SORNd for the best part of last year.

I will certainly be keeping this 2 for another year at least and then perhaps beyond. I'm looking to treat myself to something a bit more "serious" in the next year or two but I'm hoping whatever happens I can just keep this little 2 as well.

Some pics below to mark the 1st year (including one of my little helper who sadly passed recently). I particularly like the first one where I was trying to provoke it more and more every time around this corner at Bedford but it just gripped/slid beautifully.

(https://i.ibb.co/XC7MLF9/027-transformed.png) (https://ibb.co/XC7MLF9)

(https://i.ibb.co/qpz6mGr/mr2-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qpz6mGr)

(https://i.ibb.co/kKjhk0y/m2-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kKjhk0y)

MOT time has rolled around again. Started with a fail due to the handbrake being inoperative on one side. Readjusted it by rotating the piston in and then back out a bit to engage the handbrake mechanism. Passed today at 24% efficiency (so way above minimum apparently and rock solid). For those interested the cables I used are ABS brand from Autodoc and working well, both cables moving in unison etc.

This 2 just keeps going, it's still mechanically sound and drives impeccably. I could do with replacing some of the screws in the interior (mainly for the luggage compartments) to stop some rattles. The exterior has looked better given that the rear quarter panel on the driver's side is still dented and it has a few scratches not that you'd necessarily know from the picture below.

With everything I've been through with this 2 and despite its battle scars I've decided to keep this for longer than my initial thought of 1-2 years so will not be parting with it for at least another year... and even then, I'm not sure it's really worth a lot on the second hand market so may just keep it full stop.

(https://i.ibb.co/JQdN8JH/20230610-083539.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JQdN8JH)

 :) well document and good way to show and remember what has been done if you ever sell as well :)  :)

Quote from: puma2 on August 31, 2023, 11:45:) well document and good way to show and remember what has been done if you ever sell as well :)  :)

Thanks yeah it's also cathartic in a way to be able to write about it to a semi-interested audience ;)

I should also note: NO advisories  ;D

Off to Llandow this weekend. Just fitted a new seat which should help in the corners!

One of the bolts (back of seat, not on the transmission tunnel) won't go in because the washer is too big so may have to remove it. Other than that, the seat belt attaches pretty nicely to the transmission tunnel itself... which I hadn't considered at all until I actually picked up the seat. Lucky break!


(https://i.ibb.co/v1XVpL1/20231005-134853.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v1XVpL1)

Nice...that secures drive firmly.

Another track day done. The bucket seat is a huge upgrade to the car, I cannot overstate this enough. The car is running like a dream, the engine is on form, not using any oil that I can tell, after fixing the car from last time I dare say it is driving better than ever. The brakes are also the best they've been. Very happy overall.

Llandow is small and pretty well suited to the 2. I'd go back for sure. Couple of videos and pictures of the day:

(https://i.ibb.co/h2hr4Vv/20231007-093029.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h2hr4Vv)

Brilliant!

Funny to see how out of place that GT-R is on that track. Far too slow/tight a track for it. And it couldn't get away from you as you kept getting in on the corners. Just shows...300hp difference ain't everything.

And of course the usual pride in the ol' beast. Testament to the engine maintenance of the previous owner LOL

Quote from: shnazzle on October  9, 2023, 18:58Brilliant!

Funny to see how out of place that GT-R is on that track. Far too slow/tight a track for it. And it couldn't get away from you as you kept getting in on the corners. Just shows...300hp difference ain't everything.

And of course the usual pride in the ol' beast. Testament to the engine maintenance of the previous owner LOL

I thought they were over 400bhp? It absolutely blasted away on the straights and you're right, horsepower is not everything. I often hear/see people say that if you know how to drive a lot of the time 200bhp in a light car is pretty much all you need.

Glad to see you're still taking pride in your old 2 and yeah, you must have cared well for the engine (that fancy race oil?), it just gets on with its job and shrugs off several hours at the redline.

Quote from: MrChris on October  9, 2023, 19:53I thought they were over 400bhp? It absolutely blasted away on the straights and you're right, horsepower is not everything. I often hear/see people say that if you know how to drive a lot of the time 200bhp in a light car is pretty much all you need.

Glad to see you're still taking pride in your old 2 and yeah, you must have cared well for the engine (that fancy race oil?), it just gets on with its job and shrugs off several hours at the redline.

Well to be fair I cared for little else so the least I could do is give it some quality engine and gearbox care. 
It was about 2020 I think when I took a pic of the top of the pistons using a borescope and it was still so clean you could see the factory markings. I didn't do much right but I did like the engine to purr.

200hp at the wheels I reckon would have seen you past that GT-R under the right conditions. But to be fair, power to weight wouldn't be too far off the GT-R at that point.