I got my car back from servicing and the mechanic pretty much said
- i need to get a new rear subframe
- rusts underneath needs wire brushing and sealing
I'm going to check more on the rust tomorrow.
I want to get your guys opinion on whether or not if itll be worth doing these? I intend on keeping the car for a while and selling my old daily driver to do the repairs for the rear subframe which I know is an expected issue with these.
I mean the mechanic hasn't said anything beyond that and suggested the next steps on sorting the issue so I guess its not bad?
Sorry if it's a repeated comment from before, I thought relating to the topic of rust it'd be better to make a new topic.
Definitely worth doing if it needs it.
Most cars will need rust wire brushing, treating and protecting with a suitable paint underneath. If you dont treat it, it will spread and worsen leading to bigger repair bills and reduced value of the car.
Its not a job needing much expertise or experience though other than being able to get the car up high enough safely. Lots of videos I am sure on youtube about rust removal etc (everyone has their own opinion on which products to use though).
You need to have a look at that subframe, did the mechanic rule out welding it to repair it? Might be worth asking him if it is possible if it doesnt look like a big hole.
Subframes should be available from TCB parts but note that the pfl and fl ones are different so you need to be sure you get the right one for your car.
I have both PFL and FL subframes if you need one...both in excellent conditions.
Quote from: Topdownman on February 15, 2023, 12:58Definitely worth doing if it needs it.
Most cars will need rust wire brushing, treating and protecting with a suitable paint underneath. If you dont treat it, it will spread and worsen leading to bigger repair bills and reduced value of the car.
Its not a job needing much expertise or experience though other than being able to get the car up high enough safely. Lots of videos I am sure on youtube about rust removal etc (everyone has their own opinion on which products to use though).
You need to have a look at that subframe, did the mechanic rule out welding it to repair it? Might be worth asking him if it is possible if it doesnt look like a big hole.
Subframes should be available from TCB parts but note that the pfl and fl ones are different so you need to be sure you get the right one for your car.
I will have a look at this on monday on a ramp to confirm rust has spread etc, it's just seeing if it's spread that bad enough to completly kill the car. With the rear subframe, the mechanic said no to welding it and it'd be better off getting a replacement part which I will do and have a call to TCB.
On another note, I drove the car today in damp condition and just experienced my first unintentional over steer on a small roundabout, really need to be careful when driving this on these kind of condition. I think I was on first gear and i left my foot on the clutch mid turn and let it go. Yeah, definitely a brown trouser moment.
The surface rust on the underside is very rarely terminal and usually responds to: rotary wire brush, then a good rust convertor treatment then zinc primer and them a top coat of a paint that roughly matches the colour of the car.
Quote from: Asura on February 15, 2023, 17:15On another note, I drove the car today in damp condition and just experienced my first unintentional over steer on a small roundabout
A, from previous posts or this one. What are the condition of the tyres, brand, age, size, pressures, matched or mixed.
B, a sub frame, par for the course. It is only a bolt out bolt in piece.
Regardless of how well it is replaced, you WILL need to get the geometry checked and adjusted after.
Quote from: Ardent on February 15, 2023, 21:32A, from previous posts or this one. What are the condition of the tyres, brand, age, size, pressures, matched or mixed.
B, a sub frame, par for the course. It is only a bolt out bolt in piece.
Regardless of how well it is replaced, you WILL need to get the geometry checked and adjusted after.
Tyres seems to be in a good condition and have cheap tyres on, I'm guessing they've been recently changed with plenty tread. The wheels are 15inchs both front and back.
Fronts are Firemax FM601s with 185/55
Rears are Landsails LS288 with 195/50
Yeah, I will definitely replace the rear sub frame. I think for now, I'm trying to get a garage to store the car in and do some work on.
I'm not sure about the Firemax but the Landsail tyres have some very scary reviews about their wet grip and the way they break away very suddenly.
In my opinion, the first priority would be to replace the tyres with a non 'budget' tyre, regardless of how much tread they have left. I had a very similar experience with mine coming off a wet roundabout with cheap tyres - it really isn't worth the risk to you and other road users.
Quote from: barchetta_ms on February 16, 2023, 07:26I'm not sure about the Firemax but the Landsail tyres have some very scary reviews about their wet grip and the way they break away very suddenly.
In my opinion, the first priority would be to replace the tyres with a non 'budget' tyre, regardless of how much tread they have left. I had a very similar experience with mine coming off a wet roundabout with cheap tyres - it really isn't worth the risk to you and other road users.
Which tyres would you recommend?
For my facelift their isn't a massive choice in matching front/rear - I have Hankook Ventus Prime 3 K125 which have been much more stable in the wet but it would be worth doing your own research too. I'm not sure what is available for pre-facelift.
Quote from: barchetta_ms on February 16, 2023, 07:54For my facelift their isn't a massive choice in matching front/rear - I have Hankook Ventus Prime 3 K125 which have been much more stable in the wet but it would be worth doing your own research too. I'm not sure what is available for pre-facelift.
I've got a facelift too!
Quote from: Asura on February 16, 2023, 08:05I've got a facelift too!
Now we're confused, you mean your car is a facelift or you ALSO have a facelift?
The only reason I ask is you say you're on 15 inch all round, those are PFL sizes, the FL runs on 16 inch rears...
Good spot on the tyre sizes - a FL should have 185/55/R16 on the front and 215/45/R16 on the rear so yours having 195/50 on the rear is a bit unusual and probably will contribute to the handling 'fun'.
Tyres tyres tyres.
Make a whole world of difference on these cars.
As above. Regardless of how much tread.
They are ditch finders.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 16, 2023, 08:38Now we're confused, you mean your car is a facelift or you ALSO have a facelift?
The only reason I ask is you say you're on 15 inch all round, those are PFL sizes, the FL runs on 16 inch rears...
Sorry to confuse, my car is a facelift model 05 plate.
Idk what the previous owner did, but the one I got has 15 inchs on the rear too when I know its not supposed to.
Quote from: barchetta_ms on February 16, 2023, 11:45Good spot on the tyre sizes - a FL should have 185/55/R16 on the front and 215/45/R16 on the rear so yours having 195/50 on the rear is a bit unusual and probably will contribute to the handling 'fun'.
cant say it was fun, more likely gave me the brown trouser on a mini roundabout near rush hour. I also attribute this to my lack of experience on driving a rwd let alone mid engined.
Quote from: Ardent on February 16, 2023, 12:43Tyres tyres tyres.
Make a whole world of difference on these cars.
As above. Regardless of how much tread.
They are ditch finders.
Yeah I found that out the hard way... kind of
but can't deny that ordeal did get my reconsidering the safety as a daily. But did at least give me an experience of how to approach small tight corners next time...
Quote from: Ardent on February 16, 2023, 12:43Tyres tyres tyres.
Make a whole world of difference on these cars.
This ^^^^
Rob
Some people favour the 15s over the FL sizes, for various reasons, the size of the rims won't be doing as much harm as the rubber that's on them or any other issues with your geometry.
Typically there's more choice in available rubber for the 15s anyway.
This may help in your tyre search although you need to check it is still up to date for whichever ones you like the look of!
https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=71747.0
Quote from: Asura on February 16, 2023, 13:52cant say it was fun, more likely gave me the brown trouser on a mini roundabout near rush hour. I also attribute this to my lack of experience on driving a rwd let alone mid engined.
Don't doubt/beat yourself up. This has the classic hallmarks of poor tyres.
On good quality tyres a 2 will dance like a ballerina on point.
@Asura Have a look in the bottom of your glove box. Should be a little sticker.
Will tell you what the car came with.
If it is 16s and you want to return to oem. I have a spare pair I could sell you at sensible prices.
Quote from: Ardent on February 16, 2023, 17:17Don't doubt/beat yourself up. This has the classic hallmarks of poor tyres.
On good quality tyres a 2 will dance like a ballerina on point.
hopefully bad tyres are the reason! need to also make sure I dont keep my foot in the clutch halfway next time hahaha, first ever time i ever broke traction like that.
the mechanic also told me the shock absorbers are badly worn so i guess that could also be the culprit. Hopefully ill be getting myself a garage this week so I can start to do some work onto it.
Will 15inches be good for traction or is it better to stick with the oem 16s?
As
@Call the midlife! Said in post #18
The tyre is more important than 15 or 16.
Toyota originally designed it with 15s then 16s. Personal choice?
my fronts sizes are the same but the rear is meant to be 215 45 16inch
Quote from: Ardent on February 16, 2023, 20:52As @Call the midlife! Said in post #18
The tyre is more important than 15 or 16.
Toyota originally designed it with 15s then 16s. Personal choice?
ahh i see, given my budget id have to stick with the tyres unless i can find my self some kosei k1s...
I would recommend the Falken Ecorun tyres, the Toyos I had previously wore out extremely quickly and liked a wander on the motorway, having to slow down to below 60 because of the rear squirming on a greasy road isn't fun!
I got my car on a lift.
So far the sills look to be really bad but when the other mechanic was showing me parts of the suspensions rust was falling out although i suspect that its surface. He showed me the front chassis legs which looks bad.
I thought when I get the time, I will have a go at removing the surface rust and definitely confirm to see if its worth saving.
Rear subframes absolutely shot so will get a new one.
For rust remover what bilt hambwr proructs will i need?
Quote from: Asura on February 21, 2023, 13:31Rear subframes absolutely shot so will get a new one.
Used subframe - both PFL and FL ones. Both in excellent condition.
£180.00
@Asura I have only used BH Dynax S-50 an aerosol c/ w 600mm Lance/ straw to inject into cavities. Applied several years ago to my summer use only, kept in the garage cars rear and front cross member.
BH De ox C is a rust remover for immersing parts once removed from the vehicle.
BH Hydrate 80 is a rust converter, similar use as above.
Quote from: Joesson on February 21, 2023, 17:32@Asura
I have only used BH Dynax S-50 an aerosol c/ w 600mm Lance/ straw to inject into cavities. Applied several years ago to my summer use only, kept in the garage cars rear and front cross member.
BH De ox C is a rust remover for immersing parts once removed from the vehicle.
BH Hydrate 80 is a rust converter, similar use as above.
thank you
I should've taken some pictures yesterday but I did take some of the ones I had in mind today.
I tried to take as much as I can.
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Ah.
Cant say I wasn't anticipating rust. But if it's that terminal then, welp.
I plan to take the car for an MOT to get some ideas on whats needed to be done.
If theres any welding work needed to be done, especially on the front chassis area then, Id have to get rid of it.
It'll be a shame because theres no other car within a decent price range ...