Sooooo...

I tested the turbo coolant lines, basically poured coolant down one end and managed to get stuff out the other.

I HAD nice heat coming out from the heaters... I then took off the coolant by the engine and attached one end of the turbo. Nothing came out after quite a bit of waiting... laid it on the side and revved the engine, still nothing! Tried using the other pipe instead, and same story... and back to cold air in the heater.

Something might be wrong with my coolant lines, looks like I'll need to take them off again... not sure really!

Next mini update...

So with the wrapping idea falling on its arse what was the next plan? Well one Thursday night I was scrolling Facebook market place and found what looked like a nice Black MR2 needing a few bits doing to it that was 3 miles down the road. Needless to say at 8am the next day I was looking round it and two days later it was back on my drive!

So the plan is to take all the black panels off (Have always liked the cars in Black), switch them onto mine, then I'll paint the hardtop, door shuts, engine bay etc to match. Then either keep the other shell as a spare or maybe for a future race car.

The new car;







Then starting to switch the panels over, I was really pleased at how clean from rust the car is!







How its sat now, Looking forward to having the rest of the panels on at the weekend, super excited about it as I have always not really liked the silver .






Many thanks

Dan

Quote from: thetyrant on April 23, 2024, 10:56Turbo coolant flow is not directional just make sure there is coolant flow both through turbo core and the pipes to/from it, maybe its blocked up! or there was big airlock in there.

Have you connected it exactly as the TTE instructions ? do you have a picture of how you had it ?


 Once you get system bled without it you (after checking turbo has got flow) connect it back in but do the coolant line from engine to turbo first and let it push coolant through, when coolant comes out the turbo exit pipe connect that back to main system, shouldnt take much bleeding after that, on mine once i never had to bleed it after connecting turbo in must of burped itself, but 2nd time i did need to.

 

Excellent guidance thank you!

Yes I connected it exactly as per TTE guidance. I'm going to try and push liquid though today to make sure it can flow properly, it's possible that this is an area where there is some sort of blockage..

Thank you again @Carolyn & @thetyrant !

Turbo coolant flow is not directional just make sure there is coolant flow both through turbo core and the pipes to/from it, maybe its blocked up! or there was big airlock in there.

Have you connected it exactly as the TTE instructions ? do you have a picture of how you had it ?


 Once you get system bled without it you (after checking turbo has got flow) connect it back in but do the coolant line from engine to turbo first and let it push coolant through, when coolant comes out the turbo exit pipe connect that back to main system, shouldnt take much bleeding after that, on mine once i never had to bleed it after connecting turbo in must of burped itself, but 2nd time i did need to.

 

Mtec sell some on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284898392568

I can't vouch for quality but their brake disks are popular and I've had no problems with them.

By the way, if you are using after market wheels you might need to change your wheel nuts to the tapered type rather than the stock Toyota flat shouldered ones.

Quote from: Carolyn on April 20, 2024, 15:17Just do it.  You're putting off the inevitable.  Remember when I swore at you about an engine mount???

Right- I connected the coolant from next to the block back to the T junction on the way back to the coolant bottle... and WE HAVE HOT AIR! Intermittently at least! 

I'm basically watching bubbles rise during different rev cycles and getting hot air. So I figure about 10L more petrol and it'll be done! 

I do need to make good and sure that the turbo coolant feed is not directional.. there's no indication or guidance in the paperwork that it is.. anyone know?

Evening all,

have just realised that with my Formuala Dynamics wheels I'm not left with much stud thread left (about 13mm!) so would like to fit some longer bolts. From reading so far seems the original Toyota ones would be 14.2mm knurl diameter (possibly 14.3 for the rear?). Studs I have found so far are either 14.3 or 14.4mm - can these be used instead or would it stretch the bolts on fitting? Any 14.2 ones available anywhere??

Ideally would like to get some at 50mm to keep the original wheel nuts...

Any help gratefully received - brain is starting to hurt from all the searh and cross referencing now!

Yes for sure I will test it. You never know with used parts. Might be as bad as my own failed siren 😂
I will also check the current draw once fitted.

Quote from: tets on April 21, 2024, 18:52not quite to plan today.

Found a Sparco Rev seat local so went to get that.

Called home to get my old laptop (thought it was win 98) but is windows 7 and won't connect to the emanage!

Got the rear arch liner in, did another crank with the coils disconnected, more leak checks (all good)

Feel like crap, shivering and coughing so went home and cracked a beer!

Hopefully I can beg, steel or borrow a laptop (and hopefully emanage knowledge) and go again next week

Sorry to hear you're not well!

Here's a link on how to connect to the Emanage: https://youtu.be/GT4Vc_Wcapc?si=HA6cahIh-4Af_WgE

This is how I connect to mine and I know it works as I have windows 10.

emulator or compatibility mode? for win 98