Oh bummer. Do you mean the lump welded into the bottom of the damper? Fairly sure that will be repairable - where are you located?

That was one of my 'tips' - those lumps aren't central on the damper (manufacturing tolerance), the clue is in the fact they get you to drill a 14mm hole in the original shock body for a 10mm bolt... If you rotate the damper, you will find a spot where it lines up better with the hole you've drilled, reducing the chance of cross-threading.

I haven't trimmed the bump stops, and don't plan to, but yes that's what most people do.


Ikea manifold is all here, about £300 and 11kg's worth. Tons lighter than the standard setup (which is approx 28kg) and should flow better too.

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In further suspension news, it hasn't sagged any more overnight, so I'll crack on with chopping a coil off each spring later.

Checked the wheel frequency, around 2.3Hz front and 2.4Hz rear. A bit higher than my preference of 2Hz, but it has a good ratio (rear higher than front by ~5%) and should work well with the road tyres.

Quote from: AdamR28 on October 23, 2020, 09:30Oh bummer. Do you mean the lump welded into the bottom of the damper? Fairly sure that will be repairable - where are you located?

That was one of my 'tips' - those lumps aren't central on the damper (manufacturing tolerance), the clue is in the fact they get you to drill a 14mm hole in the original shock body for a 10mm bolt... If you rotate the damper, you will find a spot where it lines up better with the hole you've drilled, reducing the chance of cross-threading.

I haven't trimmed the bump stops, and don't plan to, but yes that's what most people do.

Yep, it's the bolt at the bottom. It's a 25mm M12x1.5 and as you say the hole is a 14mm one. I actually widened my hole with a file as it wasn't exactly central.

I think what's caused the crossthreading is that the damper wasn't being pulled into the strut by my tightening of the bolt. I've tried a rubber mallet to help it home but it just won't go. It's in past the securing nubs but about 5mm shy of being fully in. The other 3 were fine.

I'm now searching for a new bolt because I'm worried if I try to hard with the current one, I'll strip the helicoil insert.

I suspect also, like me, you found that on the fronts, you have to cut enough off to fit the damper in, the width being tapered at the top, such that the rubber dust boot isn't quite big enough?

Everything was going well until I noticed one of the fronts was taller than the other ... super glad I noticed that before putting a spring on or fitting it to the car!

Yeah the front boots aren't long enough at all, I'll still fit them to stop water getting inside the existing damper tube though, in the hope of preventing a future seizure!

If you get stuck for a bolt let me know and I'll have a rummage, may have something. The other option is to effectively use a stud and a nut (only on the rear though, don't think there will be enough space up front due to ARB drop link proximity) - that should ease pressure on the female thread in the damper helicoil.

Quote from: AdamR28 on October 23, 2020, 09:46Yeah the front boots aren't long enough at all, I'll still fit them to stop water getting inside the existing damper tube though, in the hope of preventing a future seizure!

If you get stuck for a bolt let me know and I'll have a rummage, may have something. The other option is to effectively use a stud and a nut (only on the rear though, don't think there will be enough space up front due to ARB drop link proximity) - that should ease pressure on the female thread in the damper helicoil.

Thanks Adam, I might take you up on that if my search draws a blank! I'll look into the stud idea, could be a winner if I can get the damn damper seated properly!

My plan with the short boots was to supplement them with some good old gorilla (duct) tape. Crude, I know, but it is waterproof and should do the job.

Little bit of exhaust mocking up / calculating at lunch...

Looks like it should all fit pretty nicely.

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And to put a more visual representation on that...

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Been beavering away at the manifold this afternoon.. had a slight 'issue' with the right hand driveshaft though. In that it would have been in the way! 

That meant a redesign, and chopping half of the 90 degree bends to a 75 degree angle.

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Tough going, just 4 cuts wore out a new hacksaw blade!

Straight cuts done with a tubing cutter, makes light work and ensures they are square.

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Then tidied up on the belt sander.

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Starting to come together...

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And in situ checking the collector clears the subframe.

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And here's how it sits now, ready for tacking up!

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Number 3 a Little longer straight out of the head, as it has a shorter route to the collector...

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Close enough at the header flange. I'll chop these to fit, then weld to the flange and die grind smooth, once I've fuly welded up each primary individually. Will back purge them and use the pulse setting without filler, this gives a lovely result (again the welder flatters my skills!).

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That, sir, is a lovely manifold. DIY PPE mani

That's a tidy looking manifold! Can't wait to see it all welded up. I'd love a longer runner 421 one day... only one guy I'd use though and he is a busy boy!

Keep up the good work 👍🏻

Thanks gents!

I've been trying to find this via Google but no joy... what does PPE stand for? I've seen the term loads of times and initially assumed it was a brand, but seems not. Something Performance Exhaust, perhaps?


Made a bit more progress before work today.

Did a test weld on some offcuts, ground it back and bashed it up, etc.

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Welding at 55 amps with pulse, it hasn't fully penetrated but seems plenty strong enough and no sugaring at the back, so I may not even need to bother back-purging. I probably will though as having put this much work in it'd be a shame to cut a last-minute corner!

Fit up is really good after using the sander, literally zero gap when held up to a light.

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Hoping to have it fully manifold shaped by the end of lunch...

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Quote from: AdamR28 on October 26, 2020, 09:49Thanks gents!

I've been trying to find this via Google but no joy... what does PPE stand for? I've seen the term loads of times and initially assumed it was a brand, but seems not. Something Performance Exhaust, perhaps?


Made a bit more progress before work today.

Currently PPE is viral! : Personal Protective Equipment.

Been around in industry for many years.

What does a PPE exhaust protect you from though? Being burned off at the lights by a 1.9TDi Golf?

PPE in MR2 world is a brand from america PPE engineering who make (or used to make? not sure which) exhausts/headers etc for our cars


see here -  https://midshipgarage.com/products/ppe-engineering-toyota-mr2-spyder-zzw30-00-05-4-1-2zz-race-header?variant=12114741395576

Thanks Ian - I thought that, but I see the term banded about so much about headers / manifolds that aren't manufactured by PPE I got confused! I guess people mean 'manifold made to look like a PPE' etc.

Quote from: AdamR28 on October 26, 2020, 10:31Thanks Ian - I thought that, but I see the term banded about so much about headers / manifolds that aren't manufactured by PPE I got confused! I guess people mean 'manifold made to look like a PPE' etc.

Yes i think it gets used as a general term for the 4-1 design manifolds

Quote from: AdamR28 on October 26, 2020, 10:31Thanks Ian - I thought that, but I see the term banded about so much about headers / manifolds that aren't manufactured by PPE I got confused! I guess people mean 'manifold made to look like a PPE' etc.

That's exactly the case. 

Basically if it's equal length 4-1 going straight down, it's a PPE-esque manifold. 
Although your runners seem to be a bit wider. So, curious how that works out.

What do you mean by 'wider' exactly?

The stock manifold uses 38mm diameter (OD) tubing, this is the same, and I'd have thought the (real!) PPE would also be the same - perhaps my eyes need calibrating!

Quote from: shnazzle on October 26, 2020, 13:57Basically if it's equal length 4-1 going straight down, it's a PPE-esque manifold.

Beejeezus... do americans réally have the collective memory span of two decades only?


Awesome work Adam.

Quote from: AdamR28 on October 26, 2020, 15:00What do you mean by 'wider' exactly?

The stock manifold uses 38mm diameter (OD) tubing, this is the same, and I'd have thought the (real!) PPE would also be the same - perhaps my eyes need calibrating!

Someone will likely correct me but I'm pretty certain the PPE has narrower runners to maintain torque lower down.

Aah, makes sense - thanks for the info!

1zz PPE header has 1.5"/38.1mm piping according to this - https://midshipgarage.com/products/ppe-engineering-toyota-mr2-spyder-mr-s-zzw30-mk3-1zz-header-manifold-high-flow-cat?_pos=5&_sid=2c91e1d08&_ss=r&variant=32412696805481

My previous link was the 2zz version now i look at it properly

I did think I'd seen 'proper' ones at 38mm when doing my research, and having that value coincide with my own sums led to that decision. Happy days, thanks again Ian!


A bit more metal chopping and sticking this morning.

Releasing the flange from the old manifold was easy, but getting the old bits of primary out was not! I think this took about 90 minutes in total, and a couple of grinding / flap discs, but well worth it as the OE flange is tons better than anything else - lighter, and a better shape with the pressed features helping to seal the gasket. (Number 2 done here, with the other 3 still to go).

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Number 3 is a bit 'long', so I'll chop a few mil off down at the collector to even things up if I can't shuffle it into position with the persuader.

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Test fit... like a glove.

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And the collector sits in a good place too, phew.

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Weight is a hair under 4kg for now, so perhaps a smidge over with the lambda bosses in. A very good saving over standard!

All the hard bit done now, can't wait to get the engine fired up again - perhaps a couple of days to do all the fiddly bits like springs, lambda bosses, etc.

Quote from: thetyrant on October 27, 2020, 07:251zz PPE header has 1.5"/38.1mm piping according to this - https://midshipgarage.com/products/ppe-engineering-toyota-mr2-spyder-mr-s-zzw30-mk3-1zz-header-manifold-high-flow-cat?_pos=5&_sid=2c91e1d08&_ss=r&variant=32412696805481

My previous link was the 2zz version now i look at it properly

I stand corrected! Thanks

Well, I think that's the manifold finished... 

I did back purge in the end.

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The welds came out a bit weird. Tried more gas, less gas, a bigger cup, absolutely scrupulous pre-cleaning, but they were just a bit 'slaggy'. Perhaps cheap material with impurities, I dunno.

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Fine with the top layer of crud removed though.

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Back purge worked nicely, no sugaring.

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Primaries all welded round. I was a bit out of practice to start with, but got better towards the end!

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Attacked with the die grinder to clean up.

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Et voila!

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It even fits, haha. Phew.

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Backbox should be fairly straightforward now, but I'll need to park this for a few days to tackle The Bucket, which has an MOT looming...


Quick lambda sensor question for those in the know:

- All 3 of them are the same, right? Just with different length leads?

- Do you need the final one?

Thanks in advance!

Good work    yes all 3 lambdas are same just different length leads like you say, if you dont have the post cat one fitted you will get an EML for it, i think @shnazzle found it also does play a small part in fuelling? but think bulk is the 2 in manifold and 3rd for checking cat efficiency etc...JDM cars dont have a 3rd one