Thanks both,
I actually popped in the normal spark plugs and took out the colder spark plugs for now... trying to resolve the ignition/misfires I'm getting.

Objectives are currently tidying up wiring, figuring out why my oil pressure and temp gauges are not working and putting the whole thing back together..

Coolant:
I think I still have a bubble in the coolant somewhere as I can't get hot air out of the vents despite the coolant registering as warm and the radiator fan coming on.


Oil:
No leaks as yet!

Clutch:
Feels great, it goes into gear and works!

Suspension:
Will tighten things up and lower it down and try to do a reasonable job on having the wheels point straight and then torque things up.

Body work:
Planning on putting the front bumper etc back on and the engine lid..

Quote from: thetyrant on April 10, 2024, 15:34Good work   it always a good feeling even with some teething troubles, I would install a blank/zeroed out map on the emanange for inital startup and idle so you know thats not causing any issues, you only need a map for when you start making boost/driving etc

Yes this is a good idea.. I managed to get my bluetooth OBD reader working and I was watching the STFTs.. had a fiddle with the timing and the injector values to try and even it out but that's only at idle. I've decided that I'm going get an ECU master black installed and have booked my slot for May 10th. So all I need the emanage to do is help me to a shakedown so that the day at RRR is successful and I don't fall foul of something that could/should have been picked up earlier..

@stupink thank you for the map you sent over it was very helpful to see what things could/should look like, I've a got while to go!

@jvanzyl said:

Coolant:
I think I still have a bubble in the coolant somewhere as I can't get hot air out of the vents despite the coolant registering as warm and the radiator fan coming on.


Have you used the heater circuit bleeding tubes?

Quote from: Joesson on April 10, 2024, 17:19@jvanzyl said:

Coolant:
I think I still have a bubble in the coolant somewhere as I can't get hot air out of the vents despite the coolant registering as warm and the radiator fan coming on.


Have you used the heater circuit bleeding tubes?

errr...are those the tubes in the Frunk? if so then no... I'm guessing that with closer examination I'll find some kind of nozzle/ tap thing I can unscrew to bleed the system?
Saying that I just remembered there's one on the engine block isn't there?

Quote from: jvanzyl on April 10, 2024, 17:27errr...are those the tubes in the Frunk? if so then no... I'm guessing that with closer examination I'll find some kind of nozzle/ tap thing I can unscrew to bleed the system?
Saying that I just remembered there's one on the engine block isn't there?

Take the frunk plastic surround out, one bleed point at the top driver's side on the rad and one on the bulkhead on the heater circuit.  Bleed one at a time.  Make sure the expansion tank is topped up as you do it.

Quote from: Carolyn on April 10, 2024, 17:31Take the frunk plastic surround out, one bleed point at the top driver's side on the rad and one on the bulkhead on the heater circuit.  Bleed one at a time.  Make sure the expansion tank is topped up as you do it.

Thanks! Found the one on the bulkhead.. will try find the one on the radiator after supper. First one made a massive difference!

During process of trying to burp the car, I've found the following leaks. Photo is taken looking upwards at the turbo.



1- oil drain - I've tightened this clip further

2 -oil drain flange- I've tightened the nut next to it

3- cold side housing- I'm not sure where this one could come from.. there was a lot of spillage when putting in oil so it's possible it's still seepage from that. I know I still need to do the oil tensioner.. @Carolyn i
Do have the o ring you sent me somewhere... it might be coming from that..

Will continue squeezing all the coolant pipes as I'm still not getting hot air from the vents and I've bled the front ones.. I'm thinking it's got something to do with the block and particularly the feed and return for the turbo.

@jvanzyl said:
Saying that I just remembered there's one on the engine block isn't there?

There is a coolant drain on the block, likely shrouded by the Turbo as iirc it is somewhat central on the rear lower part of the block.
I have found, as mentioned on here some years ago,  it best to have the rear of the car elevated and the front lowered to assist entrapped air escape from the system.

Right I have been literally see-sawing the car trying to get air out of the system.. it's still in there.
I've resorted to the below in an effort to try and help... still to no avail.. maybe tomorrow a miracle will have happened...



I even took the turbo coolant lines off to see what was happening.. bone dry.
Added coolant directly into those lines till it was coming back out at me from the block.

Are you using the car's cooling system for the turbo cooling?

Sure hope not....

Quote from: Carolyn on April 11, 2024, 08:02Are you using the car's cooling system for the turbo cooling?

Quote from: shnazzle on April 11, 2024, 08:46Sure hope not....

Yes I am as per the TTE design?

Quote from: jvanzyl on April 11, 2024, 08:51Yes I am as per the TTE design?

Sorry I was thinking charger cooling.

Turbo cooling indeed comes from car's cooling.

I do know that The cooling system bled up fine when we put that engine in (after I'd removed a blockage).

So, I suspect that whatever changes you've made to the cooling system are causing the issue.

Also, I see you're putting the bleed tube into a container below the bleed valve.  Try hanging the tube up under the bonnet so the bubbles go straight up.  That's how it's supposed to be done.

Thoughts.
When running the engine for a while till the radiator fan comes on when feeling the hose the comes into the engine (drivers side but bulk head) it's cold/not much liquid in it.
Feeling the side on passenger side it's almost too hot to touch. The engine coolant temp doesn't climb past the normal mid way mark though.. and I still don't have hot air coming through. I keep bleeding the front vent points.. sometimes I get a bit of air out but it's not much.

You just need to bleed it correctly but they can be a beeatch to do, when i had my 2 i had coolant out of it maybe 4 times with 2 engine swaps and turbo on/off etc etc, i was lucky first few times it bled up quickly no issues after reading it could be a hassle i wondered what all fuss was about!, last time i had to do it was a real mission and i did nothing different but must of got some air trapped somehow i think filling too fast maybe.

As C says its all about getting those pipes up from bleed points vertical to allow air to come out,  not into a bottle like you have, i could get the heater circuit bleed up quite quickly but took quite a bit to get the rad point done last time, mainly as the bleed screw on rad was a bit rubbish!

Double check the heater control is actually working?

when I first did mine I hadn't read anything about it so had no idea there could be an issue - I had it on a steep sloped drive front up and it bled first time with no issues.
Hopefully it will be the same this time

Quote from: tets on April 11, 2024, 18:48when I first did mine I hadn't read anything about it so had no idea there could be an issue - I had it on a steep sloped drive front up and it bled first time with no issues.
Hopefully it will be the same this time

The first time that I changed the coolant it was also on a sloped front drive, but front end down. The next time it was in my garage, rear end elevated thus front end down.
What we need now is for someone to successfully change the coolant on a level surface and then we have empirically proved that the attitude of the car matters not!

Quote from: Joesson on April 11, 2024, 19:10The first time that I changed the coolant it was also on a sloped front drive, but front end down. The next time it was in my garage, rear end elevated thus front end down.
What we need now is for someone to successfully change the coolant on a level surface and then we have empirically proved that the attitude of the car matters not!

Well.... My car is currently on the flat and I'm only 2 or 3 weekends from firing it so I'll give it a go and see what happens!

[/quote

Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 11, 2024, 18:47Double check the heater control is actually working?

Good point, how though?

In other news the car will be on a level surface for a while.



There was an incident this afternoon which had led me to reevaluate my approach to things.

I'll be reverting back to green 1ZZ injectors till I can resolve coolant and misfire issues.

Quote from: Joesson on April 11, 2024, 19:10What we need now is for someone to successfully change the coolant on a level surface and then we have empirically proved that the attitude of the car matters not!

I did. Nó issue.

Right- lunchtime update.

1ZZ injectors back in, no leaks, Emanage blanked and successfully fired up.
Going forward I'll be letting it idle while I re-attach all suspension and wheels so I can move the car more forward and to the side.

@jvanzyl said:

There was an incident this afternoon which had led me to reevaluate my approach to things.

I do hope the incident was just a close call rather than damage to person or property.

Quote from: jvanzyl on April 11, 2024, 20:33There was an incident this afternoon which had led me to reevaluate my approach to things.

Yes, I thought this sounded potentially ominous - I hope you and your equipment are undamaged!

Quote from: Joesson on April 12, 2024, 13:13@jvanzyl said:

There was an incident this afternoon which had led me to reevaluate my approach to things.

I do hope the incident was just a close call rather than damage to person or property.

Quote from: inigopete on April 12, 2024, 13:59Yes, I thought this sounded potentially ominous - I hope you and your equipment are undamaged!

Thanks both. The see sawing went wrong, I'm a little jaded / shell shocked but unhurt. Car is now on quickjack whilst I keep working on it.