Turbo heat

Started by Anonymous, June 4, 2006, 22:15

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Anonymous

After a run out today to Skegness (120 miles) the rear bodywork of my 2 was red hot. You could not put your hand onto the metal bodywork for much more than a second!
Prior to turbo install the rear bodywork was always warm but now it's hot, damn hot.
Everything seems okay coolant level, temperature gauge etc.
Is this normal?

markiii

#1
is your stock black heatshield still in place?
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#2
Quote from: "markiii"is your stock black heatshield still in place?

Both heat shields are in place (manifold and pre-cat) and the engine bay cooling fan operates on and off as it has done since install.

I'm sure today I could have fried eggs on the rear wing!

markiii

#3
yes but is the stock heatshield over the main silenceer still there?
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#4
Quote from: "markiii"yes but is the stock heatshield over the main silenceer still there?

Oh that one  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  Yes

Anonymous

#5
Lots of heat from mine today, I think I got burned more looking in the engine bay than from the sun. Everything behaving as it should though  s8) 8) s8)

philster_d

#6
I have seen the rubber of the pipes smoking     s:D :D s:D

kanujunkie

#7
mine was running hot as well, i recorded inlet temps of 50degs C!!!!!!!
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

Anonymous

#8
You came to Skeggy? Wish i'd of known, would of liked a trip down memory lane in a turbo'd 2   s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

ninjinski

#9
Quote from: "DavidM"After a run out today to Skegness (120 miles) the rear bodywork of my 2 was red hot. You could not put your hand onto the metal bodywork for much more than a second!
Prior to turbo install the rear bodywork was always warm but now it's hot, damn hot.
Everything seems okay coolant level, temperature gauge etc.
Is this normal?

David I would not say that is normal - especially if it was the bodywork was that hot! I could be wrong but might be worthwhile calling SP.
Sable

PERF: TTE TURBO & exhaust, BC Coilovers Markii inlet TRD brace SP Downpipe Exedy Cerametalic Clutch TRD Short Shifter w brass bushings EBC discs/pads OMP steering wheel, front diffuser
ICE: JVC headunit JBL P652s Alpine SWD1600 & 2000 woofers Kenwood 600W amp
EXTERNAL: Mr T spoiler. black brake calipers Dynamat Toyota dust caps Dev\'s keyhole covers Simon\'s hairpins
INTERNAL: Red leather Carbon sill guards TRD stickers Mongo deflectors Chrome gear & dial surrounds Gregg\'s custom logo plate Taurec gauges

Slacey

#10
Nah, mine gets that hot in this warm weather. I don't have deck mounted fans as peace of mind either, keep an eye on it but don't worry too much. Let's face it, unless you have a catastrophic exhaust leak like the one that melted Mark's car then there isn't an awful lot you can do about it anyway.
Ex 2002 Black / Red Leather Hass Turbo

Anonymous

#11
As I said everything is working fine, no oil or coolant loss to speak of and prior to turbo install the body got quite hot, it's just very hot now.
I'm hoping to get down to SP after my holiday for a couple of jobs I want them to do, so I'll ask them to check it out.

Anonymous

#12
Quote from: "Slacey"there isn't an awful lot you can do about it anyway.
There is a way to reduce exhaust temperature by 10 to 65°C

spit

#13
There is a lot of heat generated back there. Better for the heatshields and rails to do their job and get hot than take the shields off and let the bumper suffer though  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  I'm surviving without the side shields but still got the black exhaust tray and the under-bonnet drip tray in place.

I'm getting EGTs that go to about 750C post-turbo if I push it, but that's nothing compared to the meltdown temps that I had immediately after install before getting the AFR right  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:  

Wondering how others are getting on with the cool-down after a run. In France I had the coolant reservoir boiling like a kettle unless I ran at idle for a good few minutes before turning off the engine. Is there a cool-down routine for you TTET guys, or is the automatic fan considered sufficient?
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

ninjinski

#14
Quote from: "spit"Is there a cool-down routine for you TTET guys, or is the automatic fan considered sufficient?

No spit no cool down routine - the fan kicks in when needed and will run with ignition key out until the temp reaches an acceptable level.
Sable

PERF: TTE TURBO & exhaust, BC Coilovers Markii inlet TRD brace SP Downpipe Exedy Cerametalic Clutch TRD Short Shifter w brass bushings EBC discs/pads OMP steering wheel, front diffuser
ICE: JVC headunit JBL P652s Alpine SWD1600 & 2000 woofers Kenwood 600W amp
EXTERNAL: Mr T spoiler. black brake calipers Dynamat Toyota dust caps Dev\'s keyhole covers Simon\'s hairpins
INTERNAL: Red leather Carbon sill guards TRD stickers Mongo deflectors Chrome gear & dial surrounds Gregg\'s custom logo plate Taurec gauges

spit

#15
I'm surprised at no run-down guidance for the TTET - I'd say that the coolant "jacket" and turbo hub are pretty well insulated from the effects of a fan. What do I know!  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

kanujunkie

#16
i'm thinking i might look into some design of fan that sits on the back of the IC having a double whammy effect, both dragging air in across the IC and also blowing air up through the engine bay, main issue could be heat melting the fan and space of course  s:? :? s:?
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

aaronjb

#17
Quote from: "spit"What do I know!  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

More than you give yourself credit for  s;) ;) s;)

Ideally you should have a period of coasting down after a hard run (i.e. don't boost for the last few miles), or a period of idling once you arrive at your destination..

That way, the coolant and oil can be circulated around the centre of the turbo, cooling it down to (hopefully) a point where the oil won't boil from the trapped heat, which eventually leads to turbo failure.

I don't know of a car manufacturer who actually gives that advice on any turbocharged vehicle, however - but then I guess it's not really their problem if your turbo is dead after 60,000 miles, is it  s;) ;) s;)
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

philster_d

#18
Yep always cool down your car.

Thats why all the mk2 tubby guys fit turbo timers. It runs things for a few mins longer to cool down before shutting off.

kanujunkie

#19
Quote from: "philster_d"Yep always cool down your car.

Thats why all the mk2 tubby guys fit turbo timers. It runs things for a few mins longer to cool down before shutting off.

eeerrrr correct me i'm wrong but theres isn't water cooled is it??
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

Anonymous

#20
I'd worry about walking away from my car with the engine still running.  However, after-run coolant/oil pumps are a good idea.  The RS6 has an after-run coolant pump, but I still try to stay off boost for the last mile of my journey and/or sit in the car with the engine idling for a couple of minutes.

Tem

#21
I have a turbo timer, but I never use it anyway. Normally I drive normally for a while, but if I "can't", I'll just let it idle and watch the gauges drop down to normal temps before turning it off.
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

spit

#22
Thats what i try to do Tem, but its not always possible when you're persistently running late for meetings  s:? :? s:?  I considered a Turbo Timer but I'd be happy never to see another wiring loom ever again  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Quote from: "kanujunkie"i'm thinking i might look into some design of fan that sits on the back of the IC having a double whammy effect, both dragging air in across the IC and also blowing air up through the engine bay, main issue could be heat melting the fan and space of course  s:? :? s:?

Not quite related to Turbo heat, but not worth a new thread either - I wanted to ask you guys about cryo cooling pipes for the IC. I don't fancy busting out on a full kit but it occurred to me that I already have a switchable cold pipe supply in the form of Aircon, albeit at a slight running cost to the engine.

Has it been done? Is it worth considering? Is it feasible? Or is it a bit Heath (Robinson, not stimpson  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  )

Just thinking out loud!
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

GSB

#23
Quote from: "kanujunkie"eeerrrr correct me i'm wrong but theres isn't water cooled is it??

Neither is yours once you shut the engine off...  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Its always been good practice to run your engine down to normal operating temperatures before shutting it down, especially with a turbo. If you look at a turbocharger when its on boost, the exhasut turbine casing can become so hot it glows cherry red, even on very light boost. (I had a bog standard RS turbo that used to glow bright red after a good run, and that was on the stock 6psi of boost. Afriend of mine had a 911 GT2 that used to look like it had neons underneath  the back of it, such was the intensity of the glow!)

Now, to get steel to glow cherry red, you have to heat it to somewhere between 800 and 1000 degrees centrigrade. To glow dull red at an intensity bright enogh to be seen in daylight, its still got to be over 500DegC. So, imagine the rotor in your turbo spinning at well over 20,000 rpm, glowing hot at 1000 degrees, and then remove the oil supply and cooling water from the bearing.... The results are far from good...

I remember reading once how lotus tested one of thier old Esprit turbos. It basically involved going somewhere very hot, driving flat out up a mountain, parking the car against a wall, and turning it off. The heatsoak that then occurred saw temperatures within the engine and engine bay soar, with huge thermal stresses being placed upon engine components. Leaks were not uncommon, as were turbo failures, engine blocks warping, and all sorts of other failures. Lotus kept testing and modifying the systems until they were satisifed that the engine could survive this sort of punishment. They then still reccomeneded that owners observe proper cooldown regimes.
[size=50]Ex 2001 MR2 Roadster in Silver
Ex 2004 Facelift MR2 Roadster in Sable Grey
Ex 2007 Mazda 6 MPS in Mica Black
Current 2013 Mazda MX5 2.0 \'Venture Edition\' Roadster Coupe in Brilliant Black[/size]

heathstimpson

#24
Quote from: "spit"Or is it a bit Heath (Robinson, not stimpson  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  )
s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  Unfortunate first name for an engineer  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Ex MR2 Roadster Turbo (seven years) now 997 Porsche Carrera 4 GTS

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