advice needed for Spraying Car parts!

Started by rtbiscuit, December 17, 2006, 23:57

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Anonymous

#25
you're better rubbing it down with WET and dry to get rid of the orange peal and then recoating really matey, will be a lot easier in the long run

rtbiscuit

#26
with rubbing down the laquer, how does it affect the colour etc.

when i recoat with laquer it should restore back to normal?
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

Anonymous

#27
yes mate, just take it easy rubbing lightly with loads of water until the orange peel flattens

rtbiscuit

#28
they look pretty good, just want to make sure they're perfect.

in a couple of days will wet and dry them, and then recoat.

cheers for the advice.

i know i went to quickly when i laquered, need to slow my movement down. just paranoid of runs
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

rtbiscuit

#29
have wet and dryed the eyebrows took back the laquer till it was smooth then re sprayed with fresh laquer, they look alot better

as you can see below



this laquer is taking a while to harden, did it 4 days ago and if i was to leave my finger on it it would leave a finger print.

is there anything i can do to speed up the hardening process.

they are being kept somewhere warm.
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

firepower

#30
i would'nt have expected it to take this long to harden, maybe over night not four days. is the finish soft enough to leave a smudge or would your finger print wipe off. it could be that you have layered the top coat on to thickly  s:? :? s:?
01 tte turbo, sp exhaust and down pipe, tte springs 190hp more power soon ? 205lb/ft
1/4 mile 14.6 s @ 90 .55 mph  ( at drag strip )

rtbiscuit

#31
the last coat was a little thick, only cos i was trying to avoid spray residue on the finish, this is how i got the peel affect last time.

this time thy're smooth just need a lot longer to harden off.

have put them in the garage now as it will be about 2 weeks till i can get round to fitting them   s:cry: :cry: s:cry:  

going to wales this weekend. i wanted them in before i went but had problems sourcing all the fitting stuff. got my double sided tape today, will go buy my tigerseal this week when the shipment arrives.

will post pics once its all fitted.
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

Tem

#32
Quote from: "rtbiscuit"this laquer is taking a while to harden, did it 4 days ago and if i was to leave my finger on it it would leave a finger print.

How do you know that? Once you get a great finish, it looks "wet" forever, though it isn't.

I always have a small piece of whatever next to the piece I'm painting and apply the same paint to it. Easy way to test when the main piece can be touched.


Quoteis there anything i can do to speed up the hardening process.

they are being kept somewhere warm.

Ambient temp is pretty much it. Takes forever in cold, should be bearable in room temp and gets a lot faster in sauna.  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  I know real paintshops have huge ovens where they heat up painted items. Sauna is a good substitute for that, though I suppose it's not that common in UK.  s:? :? s:?
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

Anonymous

#33
if you keep it in the airing cupboard or the likes it should be hard to touch after 24 hours (easily)  but a few days and it will just get harder and harder   s:) :) s:)

if it isnt dry to touch after 24 hours at room temperature then you might have problems?  (in the garage at this time of year could take ages to dry fully)

rtbiscuit

#34
will move them back inside tonight.

may bring them into school tomorrow, we have a huge oven i can put them in. 6  hours at 30 degrees c should do it.
current car: Jaguar XKR

Previous cars:

Honda S2000 - Nissan 350Z - Honda CTR - Toyota MR2 roadster - Peugeot 306 GTi6

Proud owner of 2 Enid stars!!!

kentsmudger

#35
OK so this is bumping an OLD thread, but I was also wondering about "spraying the inside of my lights body colour to match the car", by which I mean the black plastic part of the (pre-facelift) headlight.

Did you mean the same bit?
Did you ever do this, as I can't tell from the rest of the thread?
Was the headlight straight-forward to take apart?

If no to any or all of the above, Has anyone else tried. I think the black plastic looks odd on a silver car and prefer the look of the facelift headlights

I don't really want to mess with the wiring for fitting the newer lights and I'm not keen on the "eyebrows" either.

Ideas anyone?
[size=85] Unichip, full Hayward & Scott exhaust, race cat and manifold - markiii pipe, K & N panel, EBC Ultimax Slotted Discs, EBC pads, TTE springs, Corky\'s Breastplate, front & rear strut braces, brass shift bushes, Hankook Ventus V12 Evos, CG-Lock. Bama deflector, Mongos, Devs key cover, TTE gear-knob. My car and my pics of other cars.

[centre] 'I am, and ever will be a white socks, pocket protector, nerdy engineer' - Neil Armstrong (1930 – 2012) [/size][/centre]

DannyN

#36
Quote from: "kentsmudger"OK so this is bumping an OLD thread, but I was also wondering about "spraying the inside of my lights body colour to match the car", by which I mean the black plastic part of the (pre-facelift) headlight.

Pretty sure that Markiii did this to his yellow one, I just cant find the thread - you could try PM'ing him for the details
Quote from: \"DannyN\"There are 10 types of people in the world,
Those who understand Binary and those that don\'t...

[size=75]Black 51 165 BHP - Hardtop ON - Teins - Apexi Power FC - AEM Induction (Cleaned) - Crower Cams - Forged Pistons - Iridium Plugs - Zero Manifold - SP Downpipe - H&S - TRD SS - Corkys MSMB - Goodridge - \'03 Vents - Devs - Bamas - Crystal Indies - Mongos.
[/size]

evileye_wrx

#37
A few pointers before you can start...

1. Removing the front headlights requires taking off the front bumper.
2. Your headlight then needs to go into an oven to soften up the glue enough to take it apart.
3. I'm pretty sure that Mark bought some old headlights to do this on. If he didn't then it still might be an idea. If the baking process goes wrong you don't want to be left with no headlights.

I think there is more discussion over the pond on Spyderchat on this subject. Alternatively, you could buy a set of post-facelift headlights which are all chromed which would look much better on a silver car.
Phil

Black 05 Subaru Impreza WRX Prodrive 265bhp
Ex Silverstone 03 Honda S2000GT 240bhp
Ex Silver 03 VX220 Turbo 200bhp
Ex Sable and Carbon 05 MR2 Roadster Turbo 205bhp

DannyN

#38
Quote from: "evileye_xc"2. Your headlight then needs to go into an oven to soften up the glue enough to take it apart.

Someone has also done this just by using a heat gun

Good point about usuing a spare set - dont think I would fancy either ways of splitting the headlights from my actual car
Quote from: \"DannyN\"There are 10 types of people in the world,
Those who understand Binary and those that don\'t...

[size=75]Black 51 165 BHP - Hardtop ON - Teins - Apexi Power FC - AEM Induction (Cleaned) - Crower Cams - Forged Pistons - Iridium Plugs - Zero Manifold - SP Downpipe - H&S - TRD SS - Corkys MSMB - Goodridge - \'03 Vents - Devs - Bamas - Crystal Indies - Mongos.
[/size]

Liz

#39
Markiiis lights are now on my husbands car - they do look good!
ex-TTE Turbo, now Freelander Sport, its not a car its a Landrover!

Peter Wright

#40
I have done this three times, its easy, cant find my original post

1. Removing the front headlights requires taking off the front bumper.
 NO
2. Your headlight then needs to go into an oven to soften up the glue enough to take it apart.
Use a heat gun and gently prise them apart so you cant do any damage
Pete
Pete.  1999 MRs.  Power Enterpise Turbo, Greddy Ultimate, Davids style bars,  Walnut Dash Kit,  2003 side pods, Chrome Mirrors & Windscreen Surround, TRD Spoiler, H&S quad exhaust, Corkeys Breast Plate, TRD Member braces, Fox Racing lightweight 17" racing alloys.

kentsmudger

#41
Quote from: "Peter Wright"I have done this three times, its easy, cant find my original post

1. Removing the front headlights requires taking off the front bumper.
 NO
2. Your headlight then needs to go into an oven to soften up the glue enough to take it apart.
Use a heat gun and gently prise them apart so you cant do any damage
Pete

Thanks for the help. I may look for some old ones to practice on or if I'm buying headlights anyway I might investigate the swap to facelift ones.
[size=85] Unichip, full Hayward & Scott exhaust, race cat and manifold - markiii pipe, K & N panel, EBC Ultimax Slotted Discs, EBC pads, TTE springs, Corky\'s Breastplate, front & rear strut braces, brass shift bushes, Hankook Ventus V12 Evos, CG-Lock. Bama deflector, Mongos, Devs key cover, TTE gear-knob. My car and my pics of other cars.

[centre] 'I am, and ever will be a white socks, pocket protector, nerdy engineer' - Neil Armstrong (1930 – 2012) [/size][/centre]

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