Dan is a star (marks MK1 thread)

rtbiscuit · April 29, 2007, 15:09

what type of welder, i have an arc welder at home,

would say i could borrow the mig welder at school, but its to big to fit in the car.

you could come to the school though, and can weld there.

markiii · April 29, 2007, 15:11

thanks Rich but I'm overdue to get one anyway I keep coming across little jobs that would be soi simple if I had one.

any susgestions from perople as to a suitable MIG unit for me to buy?

Anonymous · April 29, 2007, 15:25

Quote from: "markiii"thanks Rich but I'm overdue to get one anyway I keep coming across little jobs that would be soi simple if I had one.

any susgestions from perople as to a suitable MIG unit for me to buy?

Hi Mark

I got mine from Machinemart - many years ago, I think it was Clarke who made it, good tool works well, I think it was the 100E model, plenty of amps for car repair. I would suggest using an Argon/CO2 mix, gives a smoother arc and less spatter.

Also you might want to invest in a spotweld removal bit, allows you drill the old spotweld off the panel you'er removing and leaves the base panel intact, it just a simple case of drilling the new panel and then plug welding back on.

For a top notch job then a spot welder is a good investment, a lot cheaper these days.

I used both on my spit when I re-built her s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Rob

markiii · April 29, 2007, 20:25

Quote from: "FGRob"Also you might want to invest in a spotweld removal bit, allows you drill the old spotweld off the panel you'er removing and leaves the base panel intact, it just a simple case of drilling the new panel and then plug welding back on.

Rob

cheers Rob, and off hand idea where to get one?

markiii · April 30, 2007, 09:27

some more pics showing what appears to be only cosmetic issues so far

aaronjb · April 30, 2007, 09:41

Good lord that's a lot of rust!

Still, I only see one bit that's likely to fail an MOT in a major way (the sill return), the rest looks like it's only exterior body panels in the usual places.. Oh - the front bumper bar (under the bumper) is almost certainly toast as well if the rest is that bad..

Still, if you get a welder and fix that you'll be a dab hand.... for when it comes time to do the Nissan's arches s;)

s;) s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

Chris · April 30, 2007, 13:41

Blimey Mark, you really are a glutton for punishment!!
Sounds like it could be an ideal entrant for the mr2 challenge when it's done.. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

philster_d · April 30, 2007, 13:47

Careful where you spray the plusgas s:lol: :lol: s:lol: it could disolve

kanujunkie · April 30, 2007, 18:31

does seem like its repairable though, give or take how long it takes Mark to learn how to weld and fettle properly. 2 door sill sections need to be cut out and replaced as well, but i forgot to take pictures of that

heathstimpson · May 1, 2007, 06:26

I don't know how you find the spare time Mark s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:? :? s:?

ole carter · May 2, 2007, 10:59

apologies for dumping on your thread Mark,but if you or any one else is interested my bro has a white one of these on his drive with a recon engine in from fensport which has never been on the road since going in,and not being rude,but looks in better shape s:lol: :lol: s:lol: ........ We were doing it as a track day project but you know how it goes.... s:roll: :roll: s:roll: something else always seems to get in the way

Would make a good parts bin...leather seats,new rad,nice set of momo alloys still on it as well,I think...!

Any how leave it with you guys/girls..

cheers,Andy

rmowbray · May 2, 2007, 23:48

Hehe. You must like a challenge Mark s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

There's 3 main places I'd look for structural rust.

The front bumper bar. Stick your hand through the gap in the bumper, where the towing loop pokes out. You should be able to feel around the bottom edge if the bar, its 'C' shaped (or it used to be!). If it comes off in chunks, or the bottom isn't there then it time for a new one. Another quick test: give the towing loop a good pull, if it comes off in your hand ( s:? :? s:? ) = not good. Good news is it's bolted on and comes off fairly easy, i.e. all the bolts will shear. Mr T still sell replacements, about £100 I think.

The sills. Whip off all the plastics and you should be able to poke around for obvious structural rust.

The last place can be harder to spot, it's under the seats. There's a structural beam (bit of metal pressed into a top-hat shape) running longitudinally under the centre of each seat. Rust attacks the panels either side, where they join this beam. It's easier to spot from the underneath of the car cos of the bichumin like stuff they put on the inside of the panels. It may just look like a bit of blistering but give it a poke with a screwdriver. It can be repaired if it hasn't gone too far but it's a pita to do. s:roll: :roll: s:roll: I think this rust on mine actually started from the inside out, caused by leaking roof panel meaning the the carpet was permanently damp.Good news is that pattern sills and arch repair panels are readily available and not too expensive. They only cost about 10 times what you paid for the car. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Go on. See if you can keep her alive (unless she's already dead s:(

s:( ). Like any work on cars you'll never recoup what it cost you but that's not why we do it is it? s:D

s:D

aaronjb · May 2, 2007, 23:56

So, Mark, is it looking like a fixer, or a breaker? s:)

s:)

markiii · May 3, 2007, 10:17

no idea yet

need to strip it donw a bit this weekend

aaronjb · May 3, 2007, 10:22

Well, if it turns out to be a fixer - I've been seriously considering investing in one of Frosts electrically driven spraygun setups, and wouldn't mind a car to practice on s;)

s;) (Ok, actually I'd practice on some of the Nissan parts I have sat in the shed first s:)

s:) )

Anonymous · May 3, 2007, 10:48

Quote from: "markiii"
Quote from: "FGRob"Also you might want to invest in a spotweld removal bit, allows you drill the old spotweld off the panel you'er removing and leaves the base panel intact, it just a simple case of drilling the new panel and then plug welding back on.

Rob

cheers Rob, and off hand idea where to get one?

Sorry Mark only just seen this, here's a link for you.

m http://www.shacktools.com/sykespickavan ... -1843.html m

Thanks
Rob

markiii · May 3, 2007, 10:56

cheers Rob :-) :-) :-)

rmowbray · May 3, 2007, 22:52

Or here

Just Off Base

rtbiscuit · May 3, 2007, 23:01

ummmmmmmm s:D

s:D spray guns, and a car to practice on! this could be fun. s:D

s:D

Anonymous · May 3, 2007, 23:05

Just for the record, should the Mk1 Bucket-O-Rust©® ever return to drivable condition, I bagsy 2nd drive right after Mark. s;)

s;)

rtbiscuit · May 3, 2007, 23:26

i bagsy first passenger then (after chris of course) s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

markiii · May 3, 2007, 23:28

actually I really do have a private road :-) :-) :-)

so can already confirm it shifts for a 20 years old 1.6na :-) :-) :-)

Anonymous · May 4, 2007, 07:14

s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Good man!

kanujunkie · May 4, 2007, 09:04

Quote from: "rtbiscuit"i bagsy first passenger then (after chris of course) s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

too late, been there, done that s:wink: :wink: s:wink: and i can confirm she moves great for a 20yr old car, my only concern would be the gearbox. Mk1's have a tendancy to pop 5th gear and the fix is to replace the gearbox! on the very short test drive last saturday neither of us could get it past 3rd

aaronjb · May 4, 2007, 09:34

Quote from: "kanujunkie"too late, been there, done that s:wink: :wink: s:wink: and i can confirm she moves great for a 20yr old car, my only concern would be the gearbox. Mk1's have a tendancy to pop 5th gear and the fix is to replace the gearbox! on the very short test drive last saturday neither of us could get it past 3rd

Lauren had reasonable results just replacing the shift fork and ring for 5th, if I remember rightly - although I think the problem came back but to a lesser extent.

You shouldn't really have to replace the whole box - just replace the 5th gear portion - which is handily right behind the end plate on the Mk1's gearbox.