Changing gear, at what revs?

Started by MR2Blue, December 26, 2003, 17:57

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MR2Blue

I've noticed that I change gear at around 2500 revs, is this about right?

At what revs do you change gear?

Anonymous

#1
Nevewr really thought about it. I listen to the motor and change when it sounds right. It also depends on how you are driving. Gentle in town or thrashing it on a back road   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  Not that I ever do that   s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:

Anonymous

#2
3000 if I don't care when I get there (most of the time to be honest)... 3500 - 4000 if I'm going a bit faster.  Or just before the rev-limiter kicks in if I'm thrashing it.

Got a 5 speed as that may have some bearing.

Anonymous

#3
If I am just doing the daily commute or wanting to save fuel, at about 2.5K. A bit more spirited then at 4K but when putting the foot down for fun between 5-6K so when I shift up the revs are just over 4K when the new gear comes in. I thought 4K was when the VVTI comes into own and you are really working the engine (?). Below that, I thought the emphasis for the timing is more for economy.

If I am trying to get 60 asap then I go right up to the red line in second gear   s:) :) s:)

Anonymous

#4
I think like everyone else it depends how you want to drive.

Normal is around 2.5-3k
Bit board is around 3.5-4.5
Keeping up with the Boxter S in front of me is around 5-7k   s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

Anonymous

#5
Now let me see.  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:  

If we were together at lights, I feel sure, although I can't be certain, yeah, your revs would go to max through each gear.   s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:  

How do I know this, well, I just do   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Slacey

#6
I find that second is usually sufficient for getting around sideways, so I don't change gear thet much....  s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:  

But on a more serious note, I can't say I pay any attention to it, I change up when I change up.
Ex 2002 Black / Red Leather Hass Turbo

Anonymous

#7
Is it just me, or do you guys ever feel a teeny-weeny bit guilty after having thrashed your car?   s:? :? s:?  

Or do you just not give a damn and thrash its b*****ks off?   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Sundance   s8) 8) s8)

Anonymous

#8
Quote from: "Sundance"Is it just me, or do you guys ever feel a teeny-weeny bit guilty after having thrashed your car?   s:? :? s:?  

You're not the only one.

Anonymous

#9
I never ever feel guilty, I just feel satisfied.   s:D :D s:D  

I always return home with a smile on my face after a good blast.   s:D :D s:D    s:D :D s:D

filcee

#10
Quote from: "Sundance"Is it just me, or do you guys ever feel a teeny-weeny bit guilty after having thrashed your car?   s:? :? s:?  

Somtimes ... I always try to get things properly warmed up before really going for it.  That sort of makes me feel better.  I wish there was an oil pressure/oil temp guage as standard so I would really know when things were ready for some proper driving.
Phil
2003 6-sp SMT in Sable
x-2001 5-sp SMT in Lagoon Blue

heathstimpson

#11
Quote from: "Sundance"Is it just me, or do you guys ever feel a teeny-weeny bit guilty after having thrashed your car?   s:? :? s:?  

Or do you just not give a damn and thrash its b*****ks off?   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Sundance   s8) 8) s8)
Engines like the one in the 2 liked to be revved higher than a normal car. Unless you are constantly red lining it I don't think this is thrashing it. A lot of the time you don't get a real chance to open it up with the congestion around London anyway.
Ex MR2 Roadster Turbo (seven years) now 997 Porsche Carrera 4 GTS

MR2Blue

#12
Quote from: "cartell"Now let me see.  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:  

If we were together at lights, I feel sure, although I can't be certain, yeah, your revs would go to max through each gear.   s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:  

How do I know this, well, I just do   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Oh no I wouldn't.  s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:    s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:    s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:    s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

MR2Blue

#13
Quote from: "cartell"I never ever feel guilty, I just feel satisfied.   s:D :D s:D  

I always return home with a smile on my face after a good blast.   s:D :D s:D    s:D :D s:D

With 3500 miles in two years, by a good blast do you mean in and out of the garage.  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

SteveJ

#14
Quote from: "heathstimpson"Engines like the one in the 2 liked to be revved higher than a normal car. Unless you are constantly red lining it I don't think this is thrashing it. A lot of the time you don't get a real chance to open it up with the congestion around London anyway.

The primary reason the engine in the '2 has to be 'thrashed' to get anywhere is explained in it's designation - 1ZZ-FE as in Fuel Economy  s:( :( s:(

The FE engine is most at home in the 'shopping cart' model Yaris' and Corolla's where it spends it's entire life below 3.5K rpm. It's only saving grace is the cam change at 3.5K+ when the VVTi kicks in.

Tem

#15
Quote from: "SteveJ"It's only saving grace is the cam change at 3.5K+ when the VVTi kicks in.

Hmmmm...I'm kinda sure that the "cam change" only occurs with VVTL-i engines.

And the VVT-i doesn't kick in at +3.5k...it's pretty much always on.
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

SteveJ

#16
Quote from: "Tem"
Quote from: "SteveJ"It's only saving grace is the cam change at 3.5K+ when the VVTi kicks in.

Hmmmm...I'm kinda sure that the "cam change" only occurs with VVTL-i engines.

And the VVT-i doesn't kick in at +3.5k...it's pretty much always on.

A 'cam change' can take several forms - in our case all it does is change the valve timing (VVT-i) in the case of the VVTL-i, the amount of valve opening (or 'lift') is also changed.

VVT-i (in Toyota's form anyway) is simply an on-off switch - either oil pressure is being fed to the valve timing change or not. This changeover occurs at around 3.5K, but can vary depending on the engine load conditions - hence the '-i' on the end of the name.

Tem

#17
Quote from: "SteveJ"A 'cam change' can take several forms - in our case all it does is change the valve timing (VVT-i) in the case of the VVTL-i, the amount of valve opening (or 'lift') is also changed.

Ok, maybe we just use different terms for stuff  s:) :) s:)  I see the "real" cam change of VVTL-i as a cam change, cause it actually changes the cam profile...VVT-i does more of a cam phasing by just changing the timing of the cam, but never really changing the cam profile.


QuoteVVT-i (in Toyota's form anyway) is simply an on-off switch - either oil pressure is being fed to the valve timing change or not. This changeover occurs at around 3.5K, but can vary depending on the engine load conditions - hence the '-i' on the end of the name.

It is done by oil, but it's not an on/off thing. It can be totally off, a bit on, a bit more on, .... almost fully on and fully on. And it's adjusted from idle to rev limiter, nothing special happens at any rpm.

MR2SC had a pretty good explanation of it:
Google's cache
"Toyota's newest version of VVT-i is also quite simple, though it may look otherwise on initial inspection. Again, the exhaust cam is driven from the crank, while the intake cam is driven off the exhaust cam. This time, the drive is via gears, and a mysterious cylinder behind the drive gear on intake cam controls cam timing. Inside this mysterious cylinder is a simple three fluted rotor that actually drives the cam. By pumping oil into the chambers on either side of the three flutes, the hydraulic pressure can force the cam to advance or retard.

The VVT-i system can change the intake cam timing over a 60 degree range, changing valve overlap from absolutely zero (for smooth idle, easy starting and better cold start performance), to severely overlapped for a natural EGR effect at medium load (eliminating the need for an Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve), to whatever is ideal for maximum power at any point on the powerband."


VVTL-i is on/off type change.
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

Slacey

#18
Anyway, back on topic  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  , I paid attention to the tach yesterday and found that I shifted at various parts of the range, but most commonly at 3k.
Ex 2002 Black / Red Leather Hass Turbo

Anonymous

#19
Quote from: "MR2Blue"
Quote from: "cartell"I never ever feel guilty, I just feel satisfied.   s:D :D s:D  

I always return home with a smile on my face after a good blast.   s:D :D s:D    s:D :D s:D

With 3500 miles in two years, by a good blast do you mean in and out of the garage.  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Another saucer of milk dear?  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

filcee

#20
Quote from: "Slacey"Anyway, back on topic  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  , I paid attention to the tach yesterday and found that I shifted at various parts of the range, but most commonly at 3k.

I tend to keep mine at 3k or less until things have warmed up (see my earlier post).  Of course, with 6 sprockets, this is a tad over 70mph in top gear.  Once everything is nicely warm, I find I am hanging on to lower gears more in traffic to keep the revs at least 2.5K.  I'm finding that this gives me much better throttle response and more 'driveability' in traffic - probably 'cos I'm not bogged down in too high a gear.
Phil
2003 6-sp SMT in Sable
x-2001 5-sp SMT in Lagoon Blue

juansolo

#21
Quote from: "Sundance"Is it just me, or do you guys ever feel a teeny-weeny bit guilty after having thrashed your car?   s:? :? s:?  

No.

QuoteOr do you just not give a damn and thrash its b*****ks off?   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

I give a damn.  As long as you warm it up properly first and look after it properly, you are not doing the engine any harm.  It's when you screw the nuts of the engine when it's cold you do damage.

As for the rest of it:  tyres and brakes are consumables.  

You're likely to wear out other components quicker if you track a car regularly like suspension bushes, wheel bearings, shocks, etc.  Again, all consumables that require replacement in the fullness of time anyhow.
[size=75]Porsche Cayman - Curvy (almost) perfection
Juno SSE-CN - Bonkers track thing
Mercedes 190E - Das Uberbarge still going strong[/size]

juansolo

#22
Quote from: "MR2Blue"I've noticed that I change gear at around 2500 revs, is this about right?

At what revs do you change gear?

Depends.  6.5k when I'm making progress.  Less when I'm not.
[size=75]Porsche Cayman - Curvy (almost) perfection
Juno SSE-CN - Bonkers track thing
Mercedes 190E - Das Uberbarge still going strong[/size]

Anonymous

#23
Quote from: "MR2Blue"At what revs do you change gear?

If I'm 'going for it', something in my subconcious somehow tells me to just before the redline (or if not, I hit the damned annoying rev-limiter)  s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:   Is there any other way?!

MR2Blue

#24
Quote from: "victor"
Quote from: "MR2Blue"
Quote from: "cartell"I never ever feel guilty, I just feel satisfied.   s:D :D s:D  

I always return home with a smile on my face after a good blast.   s:D :D s:D    s:D :D s:D

With 3500 miles in two years, by a good blast do you mean in and out of the garage.  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Another saucer of milk dear?  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

And a large bowl of Felix too.  s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:  

Don't worry Victor, Cartell knows I'm only playing.  s:D :D s:D

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