IO Connect install

[Anonymous]

try the post 2 entries above this one     s:D s:D  

Can't seem to find anything in this thread or the board on the CTATYIPOD003 - ...01 and ...02 seem to be mentioned here. Looks like the ...03 allows direct CD-changer style integration, but even a search on google only turns up the Connects2 website, which provides next to no information. I've emailed them and will see what they come back with.

TBH, there ok but very minimal control, the way they work is it tricks your HU to think you have a changer given you 6 playlist/discs, the problem is you can't see what your playing unless you can see you ipod. you also can't use your ipod when its connected.

Best ipod solution IMO is parrots MKi series or IO play

The tape to aux connection people are using produces less quality than radio and in some cases will give you mono sound depending on what recording quality your songs are.

[sonixtorm]

TBH, there ok but very minimal control, the way they work is it tricks your HU to think you have a changer given you 6 playlist/discs, the problem is you can't see what your playing unless you can see you ipod. you also can't use your ipod when its connected.

Best ipod solution IMO is parrots MKi series or IO play

Thanks for this Nips - useful to know. I need to get something sorted - really limiting with just the single CD  s:) s:)

[Thudd]

I can't understand why it's so quiet. It's supposed to be a 60w Class D (ie "power") amp.
My Arcam P90 in the house is only 90w and that could knock walls down.
I think the problem is that the output from the iPod is too quiet through the headphone socket. It's maybe 10% better through the dock , but it needs to be twice as loud imo.

Bah. I shall choke down the urge to turn it up and scrape together some pennies for a better solution.
Only real chance I get to play music is in the car these days.

[Thudd]

IO Play seems to be the same basic amp btw, just with a bluetooth receiver bolted on the front.

[Anonymous]

I can't understand why it's so quiet. It's supposed to be a 60w Class D (ie "power") amp.
My Arcam P90 in the house is only 90w and that could knock walls down.
I think the problem is that the output from the iPod is too quiet through the headphone socket. It's maybe 10% better through the dock , but it needs to be twice as loud imo.

Bah. I shall choke down the urge to turn it up and scrape together some pennies for a better solution.
Only real chance I get to play music is in the car these days.

If your using aux then you will have to use the volume control on the ipod to

Ive heard these with the bluetooth adaptor connected to the ipod and they do sound really good, better than most aftermarket HU

They give 60 watts RMS
most aftermarket HU only give 20 watts RMS
and standard less than that

[Thudd]

iPod distorts at over 80% vol using the headphone socket.
With the dock it was louder but still quiet. Say 1/3 the volume of the head unit.

CTATYIPOD001 plugged into HU and loom, IO Connect into the T harness, mp3 plugged in using their cable straight into the orange box.

Only difference in the IO Play is the bluetooth adaptor box which all the inputs go through. Presumably that is amping a bit.

[Thudd]

Apparently it's throttling because the rear channels are open and I need to fit a  SOT-iO2S or mod the wiring.

[Thudd]

Found this on another forum which matches the response from IO support.

"n order to rectify this, you will need to close the open circuited channels, this can either be done by purchasing part number SOT-iO2S as a plug and play component, alternatively, if you feel confident enough to do so, you can adapt the iO harness directly. If you feel that this is something you could achieve, the please do the following;

1. Go to the iO harness ISO socket which accepts the vehicles plugs (not the iO's ISO plugs that go to the stereo).
2. You will see that the vehicle has no wires opposite the 2 outer pairs of speaker wires (GREEN, GREEN/BLACK, PURPLE & PURPLE/BLACK)
3. Locate the GREEN and the GREEN/BLACK wires on the speaker socket and cut these directly at the back of the ISO socket.
4. Bare the ends of these wires and bridge them together, either by solder and shield, through bullet connections or via a Butt connector.
5. Locate the PURPLE and the PURPLE/BLACK wires on the speaker socket and again, cut these directly at the back of the ISO socket.
6. Bare the ends of these wires and bridge them together, either by solder and shield, through bullet connections or via a Butt connector.''"

Is there any way I could wire in the rears instead? I am thinking of buying a terminal strip and using it to terminate / bridge wires in such a way that this is not an irreversible modification.

[Thudd]

Update : made the 2channel mod (10 mins) - it rocks!
Decent enough sound, loud enough, cost 40quid plus postage. Winner.

[Kool PT]

Right I'm a bit stuck with my I/O Play...

The car lead that goes into the back of my Sony WX-C570R is totally different from the connections on the I/O box which uses a larger square shaped one.

I need a female stock connection <-> male 'square' connection

AND

a male 'square'  connection <-> female stock connection

does anybody have a clue what I need?

[Thudd]

If it's the stock pre-facelift Sony HU then read the thread - I think you need a CT10TY01 T Harness as above.

Otherwise you need a different T Harness to provide ISO connectors for the IO Play, and plug in between the car loom and the HU.

[Kool PT]

got them ordered anyway, cheers

[Thudd]

Once i'd stopped being an utter plank it was really easy to install.
Bit light on bass with the stock speakers, but otherwise does a sterling job.

[Thudd]

Did you order the other adaptor cable / modify the IO wiring loom?