Coolant level different between engines ??

Started by Anonymous, April 1, 2004, 12:05

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Anonymous

My engine was replaced about a month ago.

On the old engine the coolant level was always just below max (with engine cold), I never added a drop.

When checking the oil about a week after new engine I noticed the coolant level was just above Min, so added about 1/4 litre of distilled water (as manual states) to bring it up to just below Max line.

Checked again last night, and level is back to just above the Min mark.

Obviously it is possible that coolant is leaking, but I don't think this is very likely as the levels are too consistent.

Can't decide if the new engine has its own 'natural level', or if the distilled water has just boiled off and I should use forlife or whatever the red coolant is called.

What do other peoples coolant levels run at ? Any suggestions ?

(Please don't say ask dealer, as we are well past that).

Anonymous

#1
mine is always way over max and has been since i got the car a year ago. I have some radiator stop leak stuff from wynns that your more than welcome to have if you want. if there is a leak it will plug it intil you have the coolant replaced.

Anonymous

#2
my coolant level is only just above min aswell.

i think they sit at different levels cos its obviously not a leak cos it never goes below this level.

i think that youve probably filled it up and then when its warmed up its bled itself out again due to be over filled, cos when my car has warmed up it goes above max.

i wouldnt worry about it

Anonymous

#3
Personally, I can't see how one engine could have a different "natural" coolant level to another.  There are 2 likely scenarios that I can think of to cause the symptoms you describe.
1 - There is a coolant leak, which will continue until repaired.  Could be anything from a loose hose to failed/defective head gasket.
2 - The dealer didn't properly bleed all the air from your cooling system.  

I reckon 2 is the more likely, so you should top the system up to full when warm (or whatever the handbook recommends) and try again, but keep an eye on the coolant every time you use the car for a decent distance.  If you have to top up the coolant more than once more, I would investigate further myself as the coolant loss shouldn't be that hard to spot.  

As an aside, I thought that cooling systems should always be topped up with a mixture of the recommended antifreeze and water, not water alone, 'cos that would dilute the antifreeze (and its anti-corrosiev properties)

hth and good luck
Andy
ps.  you could always call a different dealer for advice?
pps.  I wouldn't use radweld or similar until I was sure where the leak was, you might just need to tighten a hose clip or something

Anonymous

#4
sorry  i tell a lie ive just been and checked mine and it does sit just below the max mark   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  

i could of swoar it used to sit just above the min mark before.

oh well mine definately sits just below the max mark now.

aaronjb

#5
Quote from: "krisclarkuk"I have some radiator stop leak stuff from wynns that your more than welcome to have if you want. if there is a leak it will plug it intil you have the coolant replaced.

Eek, wash your mouth out with soap and water Mr Clark...  s:) :) s:)

I wouldn't put any of that stuff near an engine of mine - ok, I'll admit I used it on my 1989 Bluebird, but then I didn't care about that.. I certainly wouldn't put it near a modern engine though - it's extremely good at covering the inside of your engine in crud that never comes out..

IMHO, E&OE etc  s:) :) s:)

And to add - if you do think you have a leak (i.e. the level keeps falling), then pop to a local backstreet garage and ask them to do a pressure-test on the system (basically, they pump the system up to operating pressure while cold) - easy to spot most leaks then as the liquid won't evaporate off any hot engine parts..
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

SteveJ

#6
As I've posted elsewhere before, of the 3 roadsters I've owned, one (the first) sat on the min mark and if topped up at-all, it would just blow it out of the overflow. The second always sat mid-way (with the same reaction to being topped up), and the current one sits on the max mark wether it is hot or cold.

IMHO the cars do have individual traits - as long as once it finds it's level it stays there, don't worry about it.

Anonymous

#7
Do NOT use Radweld or anything like that in the engine. It just causes blockages over time and is more likely than not to cause catastrophic dmagae to the engine by causing hot spots around the casing. Just don't do it.

As for each engine being different, well, I had two Mk1's and BOTH of those had different levels at hot anc cold temperatures. I would get the pressure check done anyway for peice of mind and if nothing comes of it, don't worry.........

Anonymous

#8
Following my recent "leak" from the pressure valve on the expansion bottle, Mr. T conducted a pressure test. They found no leaks in the system and decided that the bottle had been overfilled on delivery.

Incidentally, the Toyota red coolant comes pre-mixed. I'm sure my manual states that the system shouldn't be topped up with just water (dilutes the coolant mix) although I stand to be corrected.

mph

#9
Every '2 seems to have it's own level - as long as it's stable for your car, I wouldn't worry.

FWIW, when I put the turbo on (which I've plumbing into the coolant circuit) it went to a different level - rather worried me at first but it's stablized there, so like I've said, as long as your own car is consistent, don't worry.
[size=92]Martin[/size][size=75]
'06 Black MR2 Roadster
'03 Red Lotus Elise 111S
'01 Black MR2 Roadster SMT turbo[/size]

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