About to buy my first 2 and something has come up!!

[StuC]

Been to see a few 2's now and I have found what appears to be a great car. Mechanically great, but without any history.

I have rang Toyota UK and they have no record of it off the chassis number. They think it might have been a European import but can't qualify that.   s:? :? s:?  
So I did a HPI check on it and it comes back fine.
I have rung and insurance company and they can't find anything amiss with the information I have given them.

I am trying to be objective and not buy this car because my heart is telling me to go for it!!

Is it wrong to buy a 47K miler with no service history?   s:? :? s:?  

Have I missed anything?

Cheers

Stu  :-) :-) :-)

[dcod]

Is it wrong to buy a 47K miler with no service history?

Honest opinion, stay clear of it.

My car died at around 50,000 miles and I think many others have died around that mileage.

I personally wouldn't buy any car without at least some service history and I would never buy a 2 without any service history.

Holdout for another one.

[Bernie]

Is it wrong to buy a 47K miler with no service history?

Honest opinion, stay clear of it.

My car died at around 50,000 miles and I think many others have died around that mileage.

I personally wouldn't buy any car without at least some service history and I would never buy a 2 without any service history.

Holdout for another one.

+ 1  Even more so if its a Pre Face Lift

This time of year there will be plenty out there with history & a deal to be struck

[Wabbitkilla]

Odd that it has no record at all at Toyota!

There are some cars out there that have been independantly serviced all their lives, but you enter the details at a Toyota dealer and they have record of it in their files. The only explanation I can think of is that it's a MR-S Japanese import, which comes with it's own challenges relating to Insurance, Troubleshooting if there's a problem, and some small detail differences. There are some really nice MR-S' out there   s:D s:D  

It comes down to chacking as much as possible and if anything at all makes you feel uncomfortable, and you need to ask questions like this then it's probably best to walk on by and find another one. Even someone with huge experience and expertise can be caught out, but they stand a good chance of figuring out if it's a good car or not. If you're serious and there's an experienced member nearby then it may be worth getting a second opinion ... just remember no-one is perfect   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Steve Green]

The seeds of doubt are there because you decided to ask the question.
If its price reflects its potential problems and you have the funds available for possible repairs then OK but otherwise steer clear.
Its a better time to buy, as some cars are being put to bed for te winter, and the sunny weather is gone.

[mrzwei]

I'm sure that this has already been suggested, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to produce a roadster specific buyers guide. I know all the info is in here but if you're buying off of a driveway then you need an A4 sheet of say 10 crutial things to check before you hand over the dosh. I'm thinking roadster specific so the concerns surround the engine, the tyres, the importance of the test drive etc. It's largely unrealistic to think that you will be able to physically check precats etc.

1. Check the condition of the tyres and that they have the recommended stagger.
2. Check the oil, ideally golden brown and not black, especially if they say 'it's just been serviced', but may just need a service.
4. Take the oil filler cap off. A lot of white 'gunge' is not good.
4. Check the water, ideally a pinky or perhaps bluey colour but definately pretty clear with no evidence of 'gunge'.
5. Turn the ignition on, do all of the warning lights come on on the rev counter, particularly the 'check engine light' at the bottom?
6. Start the car, Do all of the warning lights go off?
7. Rev the engine. Should rev smoothly to the limit Any obvious signs of smoke?
8. Any worrying noises? (A bit of top end rattle is common as is a whine from the power steering pump).
9. Test drive the car. It should go exactly where you point it, should be stable at speed (may feel a bit light a high motorway speed) and the brakes should be very good.
10. Say you're worried that it hasn't got any service history, it doesn,t register on Toyota's computer and you need a price reduction to cover that   s:D s:D   (I couldn't think of another 10).

Apologies for the slight drift but I,m sure most people know what to do and ask but in the emotion of the sale they forget.
Others will have a different 1-10 but I think it's important to keep it simple.

Feel free to pull apart.

[nathanMR2]

Always worth checking everything. All lights, stereo, horn, heaters, electric mirrors, central locking, alarm goes off as it should. That any of the wheels arent too hot after a drive (could be a sign of a binding calliper).

I once brought a car in the month of November only to find one cold morning that the heater didnt work which made it near impossible to drive in winter months and it would have cost a fortune to fix.

[StuC]

Thanks for all the replys.

My car died at around 50,000 miles and I think many others have died around that mileage.

How did yours die?

Odd that it has no record at all at Toyota!

I know that one got me too. Their explanation was that it was imported from another European country as was happening more and more around 2001.

The seeds of doubt are there because you decided to ask the question.

Only because I am trying buy with my head!!! Stupid Head!!

1. Tyres...Fronts need changing right on limit.
2. Oil... Serviced about 3K miles ago... and I forgot to lift the cap or the dipstick!! Doh!!
3. Filler cap ^^^^
4. Check the water... Nice pink colour no deposits on the bottle either.
5. Warning lights on... yes
6. Warning lights off... yes
7. Smoke... not that I could see.
8. Any worrying noises... only thing i could hear was a slight rubbing on the rear offside disc. The calliper was brand new and he had only done motorway miles since it was changed.
9. Test drive the car. It should go exactly where you point it... YUP!!  :-) :-) :-)

The only thing that also took my eye was the drivers seatbelt didn't retract. The passenger one did but slowly. Then I noticed that the 'D-loop' under the trim had rust on it. Which i though was weird as it was covered by trim and it painted/coated. the passenger one was fine. Made me wonder if it was water damaged at some point!??

Other than lacquer peel on the wheels there wasn't much wrong with it. The hood was really easy to put up and down. The hard top was in good condition. Engine bay was clean. Cabin was tidy. Drove really well. VVT worked and pulled well.

Hence the dilemma of going for it or not!!

[mrzwei]

It's all down to price then really.

If that 3k ago service is documented then that would be a plus.

Otherwise, Jap import, no service history must mean at least 500 quid cheaper than a similar miles uk car with documented service history. No warranty if it's a dealer, would mean more money off (or definately walk away).

Edit: On reflection, I think that the seatbelt not retracting is an MOT fail. Your water damage theory is worrying.

[StuC]

Sorry 3k ago was the MOT not a service!!! My bad!

The trader reckons it has a 6 month warranty with it from him. Not really sure that means anything though!!

[mrzwei]

Sorry Stu we cross posted, that seatbelt thing is an issue. Read the small print on the warranty very carefully if you go for it. A lot are not worth anything (will replace the faulty part but you pay for the garage to get to it, fair wear and tear accepted, which can apply to any part on a car, it's a known issue so won't pay etc. etc.)

[StuC]

I think that the seatbelt not retracting is an MOT fail. Your water damage theory is worrying.

It is a fail you are right, as it doesn't retract itself at all. Some testers will pass it if the belt can be 'helped' manually.

The water thing... the thing i keep coming back to is why is it only on the one side!?!?

Perhaps I would be better to stop worrying over this one and just start looking at another one!!!

I have found another one, which incidentally has the same last 3 letters and is black with a tan top and interior!! Anyone on here?

[andibell]

The only thing that also took my eye was the drivers seatbelt didn't retract. The passenger one did but slowly. Then I noticed that the 'D-loop' under the trim had rust on it. Which i though was weird as it was covered by trim and it painted/coated. the passenger one was fine. Made me wonder if it was water damaged at some point!??

Could be that the drainage holes (under the hood) have been blocked and water has been building up and leaking through into the storage area behind the seats and in turn getting into and around the seat belts.  Definitely an MOT failure, my old 3 series failed for drivers side seat belt not retracting fast enough.

Personally, I'd walk away.  As mentioned before, there are plenty out there and prices are only going to drop over the next couple months....

Also worth considering, there is at least one member on here looking to sell.  If I could go back in time, I'd have bought mine  from someone on here instead of a dealer.

[StuC]

Could be that the drainage holes (under the hood) have been blocked and water has been building up and leaking through into the storage area behind the seats and in turn getting into and around the seat belts.

If that is the case... what else is lurking underneath!!!   s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:

[andibell]

If that is the case... what else is lurking underneath!!!   s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:

It's only a guess and someone far more knowledgeable than me may well be along shortly to point out that I'm wrong.   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

I do know that the drainage holes can become blocked and if not cleared out, over a period of time water can build up to a level that it leaks through into the car.  I can't think of many other reasons that the area around the seat belts would get rusty...  
Even if that isn't the cause, the fact that rust has managed to build up inside the car would be enough grounds for me to walk away and look elsewhere.

[Anonymous]

Worth noting that the MRS didnt have LSD, one of the things that makes the MR2 such a great car. The only european countries I can think of with right hand drive would be Cyprus, or Malta.

I bought one with no service history. Took me 3 months to work out it was an oil burner. 83000 miles

[dcod]

My car died at around 50,000 miles and I think many others have died around that mileage.

How did yours die?

Had my car imported new from Holland in 2001. 9 years of 100% trouble free motoring.

It's a Toyota ... what could go wrong!?

Car suddenly sounded like a diesel. Checked oil ... none! Found MR2ROC and found out about the 1zz issues. Removed pre-cats (which appeared in excellent condition!). Decided 1l of oil every 1000 mls was just going to get worse. Had the money, so did a 2zz swap.

Due to my precats being in such good condition, I personally believe that precat break up is due to oil usage and not the other way round. The actual oil usage is probably from something happening inside the engine. Rings? Seals? Clogging? Take your pick.

(Disclaimer: I'm no mechanic   s:D s:D  )

[StuC]

did a 2zz swap.

is that the celica 190 engine?

Had my car imported new from Holland in 2001.

I wonder if yours appears on the Toyota UK database either?!!?
Were last 3 letters of your reg BGA by any chance?

[dcod]

Yep, Celica GTS (T-Sport 190).

My Reg is X863 ERC but I guess it depends on which port the car arrived at. Can't remember off hand.

If you want me to find out if Toyota has a record of my chassis number I'll see what I can do.

[dcod]

The only differences with my car and the UK spec car (pre facelift) is that it didn't have a Sony stereo, the seats didn't have the white stitching and the embosed MR2 in the leather and the car had no 'Roadster' badge on the back.

[Toplesscouple]

I have found another one, which incidentally has the same last 3 letters and is black with a tan top and interior!! Anyone on here?

That will be an import. Almost certainly.

So it could have been registered by the same import company possibly. Has either car got the factory fitted alarm or an aftermarket one? Clifford for example.

If you're buying from a trader/dealer than I guess you will be paying quite a high price especially as it has a hardtop too. Might be worth looking at privately owned 2's too. I'm not sure I'd get too hung up on no service history as I believe a lot of cars have gone bang that did have one. More obviously is condition of all the fluids, pads and discs and general feel of the car. IMO.

I'd also be slightly dubious of the mileage as that is low.

[StuC]

The only differences with my car and the UK spec car (pre facelift) is that it didn't have a Sony stereo, the seats didn't have the white stitching and the embosed MR2 in the leather and the car had no 'Roadster' badge on the back.

This one doesn't have a Sony stereo and also doesn't have a roadster badge on the back.

Has either car got the factory fitted alarm or an aftermarket one? Clifford for example.

I'd also be slightly dubious of the mileage as that is low.

Yup, has an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser.

Other than a little bit or the leather slightly cracking on the torso bolsters. The rest of the interior suggested that the mileage was correct.
Some rust on the brake discs inside of the diameter of the brake pad material.

Any common indicators of more mileage?

[Toplesscouple]

Definitely an import then. Rust on discs is common. Seat bolsters do crack/scuff with wear although I'd have thought not at so early a mileage. However they may never have been treated or the car parked a lot in the sun so not really an indicator. Wear on gear knob and steering wheel I suppose could be a pointer. I'm sure other folks may have some ideas although they do carry mileage very well cosmetically. IMO.

[dcod]

Definitely an import then. Rust on discs is common. Seat bolsters do crack/scuff with wear although I'd have thought not at so early a mileage. However they may never have been treated or the car parked a lot in the sun so not really an indicator. Wear on gear knob and steering wheel I suppose could be a pointer. I'm sure other folks may have some ideas although they do carry mileage very well cosmetically. IMO.

+1 Import.

My discs rust within hours after rain. They are basically bare metal and don't do water very well.

My car is 2001, 65k mls and the gearknob and steering wheel is almost perfect. (This would probably be different if I was a pimp and had loads of gold rings though).

As Toplesscouple said, they do carry mileage very well cosmetically.

[Mr_Dav]

Funny, you should say that.

I saw a blue 2003 mr2 47k miles in south london when i was looking for one (Trade) £5750 (no hard top). It seemed to drive ok, but I walked away as it had absolutely no history at all. Didnt even bother HPI'ing it. I agree with most people here, why risk it?  MR2's always pop up.

I looked at four before I bought mine. The third one I saw was a 2004 blue MR2, £4750, 34k miles with a hard top (private). Looked good with a decent (ish) service history (oil was black though). Got home did the HPI with Experion (recommended!!). Turns out it was a CAT C write off at some point. I rang them back and casually asked if they had done a HPI before buying it. She said no. I told them about the HPI and the Cat C to which she mentioned 'oh yeah we had to replace the wheel'. !!??   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  She wouldnt or couldnt divulge more info.   Needless to say, that was a no-go.

Mine was only 27K miles, which at first made me raise the odd eye brow, however the HPI was pretty reassuring as it gives the recorded milage with services along the way, so you can easily see the trend and decide if it makes sense.

Sorry, babbling a bit, but my point is, unless your feeling brave or v rich, buy a MR2 (or any car for that matter) with a perfect HPI record and good history. There are plenty around.