20% stiffer Valve springs where to buy in the UK

Started by E, April 20, 2012, 20:19

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E

Right Im after some 20% stiffer engine valve springs like these  m http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/produ ... cts_id=127 m
just wondering if anyone knows where you can buy them from in the UK, to save on shipping and the dreaded import duty and does anyone no are they a custom part or are they simply stock springs from another engine.

Peter Wright

#1
I know Fensport do some as I had a look when fitting my turbo but decided against in the end mainly due to extra cost
Pete
Pete.  1999 MRs.  Power Enterpise Turbo, Greddy Ultimate, Davids style bars,  Walnut Dash Kit,  2003 side pods, Chrome Mirrors & Windscreen Surround, TRD Spoiler, H&S quad exhaust, Corkeys Breast Plate, TRD Member braces, Fox Racing lightweight 17" racing alloys.

E

#2
Cheers Pete, just had a look on there and they dont seem to list any for our car.   s:( :( s:(

loadswine

#3
I'm guessing this is part of a bigger plan Ian, as on their own, they will sap a little power with greater frictional losses.
No Roadster any more, Golf 7.5 GTi Performance

E

#4
Yes in the long term (about 12 months of saving) I'm hoping to go Rotrex but in the meantime I have that valve that occasionally goes a bit rattley on high revs, just hoping that this will sort it out as it doesn't require a full engine strip down.

Anonymous

#5
To change valve springs its normally head off

ChrisGB

#6
Quote from: "E"Yes in the long term (about 12 months of saving) I'm hoping to go Rotrex but in the meantime I have that valve that occasionally goes a bit rattley on high revs, just hoping that this will sort it out as it doesn't require a full engine strip down.

May just be one weakened stock spring which could be replaced with another stock one?

Chris
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

FGrob

Quote from: "E"Yes in the long term (about 12 months of saving) I'm hoping to go Rotrex but in the meantime I have that valve that occasionally goes a bit rattley on high revs, just hoping that this will sort it out as it doesn't require a full engine strip down.
It's still sticking then E, I would look at the valve itself and get the root sorted or even swop the head for a recon unit the cost are not going to be that different when you consider you will need to take the head off, although I remember there is a way of changing the springs without removing the head - Chris at Hypersport (when it was going) offered that service.

Rob.
Ex owner of a Black 2004 car "which is quite possibly the finest normally aspirated MR2 Roadster in the country" as quoted by Japanese Performance Magazine Dec 2010.

Classic & Performance Car Show Winner Sunday 5th June 2011 - Tatton Park - Best Toyota MR2.

ChrisGB

#8
Have to say that I would be suspecting a sticking valve rather than defective spring. Worth a compression check to see if any valve seats are burnt? I think some places will pressurise the cylinder via the plug hole while changing the valve springs / retainers. Probably not the best way of doing it, particularly if there is some sort of fault, as you don't get to investigate the valves properly.

Chris
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

E

#9
Cheers Guys all help and advice gratefully received.

Quote from: "rbuckingham"To change valve springs its normally head off

possible with head on with care   s:scared: :scared: s:scared:  4:34 in to this video
[youtube:id8scwma]fZ5nZhDdAMs[/youtube:id8scwma]
slightly worried about turning the engine with the timing chain off the camshaft though.
If going down this route one of these would be awesome  m http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/produ ... ts_id=1316 m

Quote from: "ChrisGB"May just be one weakened stock spring which could be replaced with another stock one?
Did think about this but it seemed that whilst I was in there and thinking of going SC next year then replacing them all with the slightly stiffer ones might be a good idea.

Quote from: "FGrob"It's still sticking then E, I would look at the valve itself and get the root sorted or even swop the head for a recon unit the cost are not going to be that different when you consider you will need to take the head off, although I remember there is a way of changing the springs without removing the head - Chris at Hypersport (when it was going) offered that service.

Rob.

Quote from: "ChrisGB"Have to say that I would be suspecting a sticking valve rather than defective spring. Worth a compression check to see if any valve seats are burnt? I think some places will pressurise the cylinder via the plug hole while changing the valve springs / retainers. Probably not the best way of doing it, particularly if there is some sort of fault, as you don't get to investigate the valves properly.

Chris

The best thing in the ideal world even if just for piece of mind would be to take the head off to investigate the problem properly, however this is my daily drive and I need it to do the 76 mile round trip to work on a Monday.
So my thinking Hoping really( as it has been doing this only occasionally over the last 2 1/2 years and usually after high revs and apart from the 1st time  l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=27223 l  it clears up as quickly as it comes with so far seemingly no ill effects IE he never burns oil and performance and economy seem fine) is that there may be a slight imperfection on the upper limit of the valve travel that only makes the valve sticky at high revs and that the stiffer springs would prevent this excessive movement.

as before all help/advice appreciated

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