Cool your intake air, get up to +2HP off the line

[Anonymous]

I was looking for a way to cool down the intake when driving in traffic and was going to install a big fan.  Maybe that would work, but I would need to do some more work, such as making a shroud, plus there are some disadvantages of running a big enough fan to make a difference.  I decided to try a blower instead, mounted in just the right place.  It gives very good cooling results when you restart the engine after it has been sitting for a while.  This would be good at an autocross (between runs) or any other scenario where you have stopped for a little while (up to an hour, I'd say, depends on conditions) and are just starting out again.  I saw a drop of about 20degF in about 1 minute, which should be good for +2HP.  This would be good for a PPE intake, a Pelican Racing intake, mine (custom), or any other one that has an exposed filter inside the engine bay.  I would think it would give similar results (maybe not as good) for other intakes, too (you would want to mount the blower in a different place).

http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=12400&start=57

There are pictures and a schematic a few posts down from that.  Total cost for what is shown in the schematic would be around $120 (USD), but you could omit the automatic controls and do it for I'd say $80.

Just thought I'd pass this on.   s:) s:)

[MRMike]

For anyone thinking of doing this mod, noticed this on Demon Tweeks

 m http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/catalogue ... rom=search m

[Anonymous]

That's very similar to my SPAL fan, even the mounting hardware.  My 12-inch fan would require a shroud and moving the latch parts back, so I have not gotten around to doing it... and may not do it all due to other factors noted in that thread (weight, noise, current draw, limited increase in effectiveness compared to just the blower (I *think*)).  The thermostat these fans come with are for coolant temp, not air temp.  I was looking for a way to reduce intake air temp under certain conditions (doable), not cool the engine.  My thermostatic switch is a $20 part that you put together.  The timer is also about $20 and comes preassembled.

I'm just sticking with the blower and will experiment with mounting and ducting in an attempt to get more cool to the filter.  The first attempt was not good because of turbulence and the effect of that on idle stability, but there may be a way around that.

[Anonymous]

The long ("street" config) tube should be coming shortly (from Corky) and I'll be running with that most of the time.  The blower will be moved to inside the fender, pulling air from side vent and directing it to the tail lamp area (where "street" configuration air filter will reside, like AEM's arrangement).  I'm thinking the blower will be barely audible when mounted in there.  As it is now, you can hear it when sitting still w/out the radio on, but it isn't objectionable.

[Anonymous]

This is not my area of expertise at all but I did used to own a big 2.8TDi Pajero & they used to have an add on cooling fan. Have a search around the 4wd world to see if any of them would suit your needs.

[Darth Paul]

This is not my area of expertise at all but I did used to own a big 2.8TDi Pajero & they used to have an add on cooling fan. Have a search around the 4wd world to see if any of them would suit your needs.

And we all know what Pajero means in Spanish, you overly-developed right armed individual, you.  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[MRMike]

That's very similar to my SPAL fan, even the mounting hardware.  

Thats exactly what I thought when I saw it Beanie! Hence posting it.  I'm considering trying something similar myself, since removing the engin drip tray I can't believe just how much more efficently it removes heat.

[Anonymous]

The big fan isn't installed mainly because I realized the best placement of the fan (and therefore shroud design) requires moving the latch parts back 2-3 inches and I can't weld.  I'm probably not even going to pursue the big fan.  It should be as good as it gets in terms of moving air, though.  Maybe someone with a turbo could benefit from this and it is fairly inexpensive.  Be forewarned that there is a whir sound you may not want to hear all the time.

I'm just focusing on blower placement now.

[SteveJ]

I have just one question about this solution to the issue of getting cold air to the intake.

What are the parasitic losses of the fan?

I would hazard a guess that they outweigh the gain that you will get.

[Anonymous]

I don't recall seeing how many amps the fan or blower draw when they are up to speed.  It is mostly at startup when significant current is drawn by the fan (that's why you should use a 30A fuse) and the blower is much smaller (4-inch diameter tube) and should be insignificant, even during startup.  The only reasons I'm still talking about the fan are (1.) I have one and would like to use it if it would be a plus, which I acknowledge is doubtful, and (2.) someone else, perhaps with a very hot engine compartment (turbo), could learn something from this... how to do it, not that it is that hard.

[Anonymous]

(this computer at work won't let me do long posts for some reason so I split it up)

I believe the blower will be able to prevent the intake air temp from rising by 10 degrees C (typically) in low speed city driving, if only I can solve the turbulence problem (unstable idle), and I think I can.  I'll have to wait to get the long tube.  The plan is to move the blower (4") inside the left rear fender, connect one end to the (smaller diameter) stock tube that runs through the fender, connect the other end to the end of the filter (inverted cone part, like Apex'i), and run a short tube from where stock tube comes out behind battery box to the side vent.

[Anonymous]

That arrangement will allow the filter to breathe normally, as if the blower was not even there when it is turned off (because of larger inside diameter), and breathe cooler air (giving maybe 2HP typically) when the blower is on.  With blower on or off, filter can still breathe through the sides (where most of the air comes right now), so it is not like I am enclosing the filter.  Anyway, it will be something I can do very easily and am interested in the results.  It could be the best possible cold air intake for street use... as long as idle is fine.  Note that I can make an electrical change if I want to slow down the blower motor.