Engine 'whistle' on start up

[Yorkie1967]

Hi

Had my MR2 for just over a month now and noticed on start-up that the engine seems to have developed a kind of 'whistling' noise. Very hard to describe the noise actually kind of a cross between a whistle and a tapping. Definitely not a rattle - tappets? Also a slight metallic vibration from what I think is the exhaust on harder revving - i.e. when I'm reversing out of my driveway. The whistle/tapping does go away after 3-4 minutes and the engine is as quiet as a mouse when cruising/coasting. No loss of power either. I seem to recall something similar with a previous car I had years ago and the technicians at the garage saying that I wasn't revving the engine enough?? As I said the engine pulls fine and no loss of power - just wondered if anyone had any suggestions before I take to my local garage and let them have a listen. Happy to crawl under it and listen, but not sure I should be looking...

Car is a 2003 face-lift, 76k with service history and fresh MOT from May 2013.

Cheers

[redarrow]

Sounds like a missed aligned alternator  belt
Scrapping then re aligning it self on the cog.

You cheeked that yet?

[Yorkie1967]

Hi redarrow

Thanks for the reply - I'll check next time I start her up. If it is the case is it something I can fix or is it a garage job?

Cheers

[Jandaw]

You can't really misalign the accessory belt due to the flange on the idler pulley.

A whistle or whine for a short time after starting is most likely the alternator working that bit harder as it replaces what was taken out of the battery when starting.

Most annoying rattles which are associated with a certain rev range emanate from a heat shield.

Where abouts are you in Yorkshire? Get one of the members to have a listen before you start throwing money around. You've done the right thing by asking the question on here first.

You'll here every little noise with the engine just behind you. Last night I got back from a 1500 mile trip round France listening to the engine, it never missed a beat! Fantastic cars.

[no1trancefan]

You can't really misalign the accessory belt due to the flange on the idler pulley.

A whistle or whine for a short time after starting is most likely the alternator working that bit harder as it replaces what was taken out of the battery when starting.

Most annoying rattles which are associated with a certain rev range emanate from a heat shield.

Where abouts are you in Yorkshire? Get one of the members to have a listen before you start throwing money around. You've done the right thing by asking the question on here first.

You'll here every little noise with the engine just behind you. Last night I got back from a 1500 mile trip round France listening to the engine, it never missed a beat! Fantastic cars.

good job you didnt do that trip in a french car then ey  s:P s:P

[Yorkie1967]

I'm just south of Barnsley - M1 Junction 36. Any specialist owners in this area?

[redarrow]

You can get a alternator from ebay for cheep
Then replace it.

But first ask a garage for there diagnostics
You can diagnose this problem
 your self  with a 290844661114 from ebay
All you do is point it to the faulty part for
Noise then your no if it that or not.

Atleast your no what to replace or get replaced or fixed.

All the best redarrow/ john

[Anonymous]

A long screwdriver will also work.

Alternators don't normally cause a problem or these cars so I would be carefull going there. This noise is it everytime you start the car or only when cold? Also find a big hill and with the car in first gear and the ignition on let it roll down the hill. When up to speed let off the clutch and the car should start. Doing that will rule out the starter motor starting screw.

[Jandaw]

Don't know what the starter motor starting screw is but would not recommend bump starting any car by using FIRST gear. Use a higher gear to avoid extreme shock to the transmission.

If the noise goes away after a few minutes running, what will the OP benefit from a bump start unless he parks on the hill overnight?

Switching the alternator is a sod of a job. If you have to do it get help and do not buy a cheap unit, you won't want to do the job again in a hurry. A good auto electrician will tell you whether its the alternator or possibly the battery past its best.

Just as a matter of interest, noise, as opposed to a whine, need not be from the alternator but from the water pump. Bearing wear can be felt by hand by physically rocking the units with the engine OFF.

You're just a bit too far away from me but if no-one offers to help look for an event or organise an evening meet yourself.

You'll be ok.

[Yorkie1967]

Problem sorted - took it down to my local garage (Motorite in Elsecarr village - brilliant place, two older chaps with wealth of experience) would located the cause - heat shields. They were amazed how many there are on these engines and non are fixed with bolts/nuts etc all just welded. So they re-welded everyone that had corroded for £30! Job done - engine now rattle/whistle free.

They did notice however that the radiator was leaking on the passenger side - not a lot but it would need replacing at some point. They got a quote for me for £165 + VAT for the part - I looked on ebay here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-MR2-1-8-ROADSTER-1999-2005-RADIATOR-BRAND-NEW-2-YEAR-WARRANTY-/281080296575?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AToyota%7CModel%3AMR+2&hash=item4171b0f47f and they have them for only £39.50 brand new! Has anyone else bought from these guys before? Looks genuine but seems too good to be true.

In the meantime the Motorite guys suggested K-Seal for a quick fix.

Thanks for everyones comments by the way - much appreciated...

[fozzer]

Hi just to let you know I am not far away at Thorpe Hesley if you are desperate for help. I have not had my mr2 long but have spent my life building and restoring bikes and cars (build my own kit car) will keep an eye out for you. mine is an 04 in sable
       Good luck
                             Paul

[Yorkie1967]

Howdy fozzer
I'm in Hemingfield so not far at all. 03 Sable grey with front/rear spats + spoiler. Will keep an eye out also!
Cheers

[Joesson]

See my reply of 03 July for similar rad problem, i have used this replacement as others before me and all OK. I suggest clamping the hoses to reduce coolant loss and change the rad drain and bleed plugs old for new. you'll be fine, just have a read on here first.

[redarrow]

I fort the radiator looked easy to change.

Just take the front apart then unbolt the radiator
Then clamp the pipes closed so no antifreze comes out
 Undo radiator bolts then Paull the radiator out then replace new radiator
Re nut it up and re connect pipes .

That it , you can know undo the bleed  points
Under the spare wheel plastic to see if there any bubbles present if
There is let antifreze out slowly untill bubles stop then do up
All bleed points.

To be honest afther the new fitted radiator
And re conected the pipes with out losing antifreze
There shouldnt be any air to realise from the bleed points.

The only time you really need to completly
Take all the antifreze out is if your changing the
Head gasket but these cars dint suffer from
Head gasket problams.

Only my opionoin sounds logical my way.

Ps.it cost around £45 for the radiator and
1 hour labour no more then £90 all in from a
Fully certified machanic