Jay's MR-S Roadster Project

Started by bluesmoke, March 24, 2014, 22:37

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bluesmoke

#50
I'm planning to transfer the hubs and driveshafts across with the engine and box, so with that in mind is it better or worse to remove the crossmember? I know that I will need to unbolt the arms from the crossmember to the hubs. It just seems like I could avoid a nice chunk of work if I can leave it in place.

Anonymous

#51
Cross member removal is very easy, especially if you are removing the engine anyway it's probably only four extra bolts

bluesmoke

#52
Not worth trying to work around it then, I guess.

Anonymous

#53
After removing one a few weeks ago, I'd agree with that

bluesmoke

#54
Fair enough. I take it it's safe to remove that in advance of removing the engine mount bolts?

TiM3

#55
I found the crossmember is very easy to work around, but if you were swapping out driveshafts and control arms anyway you might aswell drop it all out.

You asked about exhaust rubbers, I just sprayed WD40 on the hangers and levered them off with a large flat blade driver, saves buying new ones if they are in good nick.
2001 MR2 Roadster - Cusco front strut brace, Chico Racing shift bushes, soft top delete, 2ZZ-GE, Eliseparts sump, 6 speed box, 4.529 final drive, LSD, custom induction, Zorstec 4-1 manifold, 100cel cat, P&P full cage, RRS 6 points, Cobra Imolas, BC Coilovers (5/7) BattleVersion rear arms, polybushed front arms, poly windows, gutted doors and dash.

Anonymous

#56
Quote from: "TiM3"I found the crossmember is very easy to work around, but if you were swapping out driveshafts and control arms anyway you might aswell drop it all out.

You asked about exhaust rubbers, I just sprayed WD40 on the hangers and levered them off with a large flat blade driver, saves buying new ones if they are in good nick.

Ref exhaust rubbers 2nd that, they slide off surprisingly easy with some lube  s;) ;) s;)

bluesmoke

#57
Righto. Looked like it might be a pig of a job, which had me a bit put off. I've got some lithium grease I can use.

Anonymous

#58
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Fair enough. I take it it's safe to remove that in advance of removing the engine mount bolts?

Absolutely. I did put my trolley jack under the gearbox when I had mine off but it wasn't really needed. It would have been fine on the other mounts

bluesmoke

#59
Nice one. Seems I'm well on my way then.

bluesmoke

#60
Off to collect a front bumper for the silver car now....  s:) :) s:)

Anonymous

#61
So is the plan to remove everything good from the blue one, build up the silver one with those parts and scrap the blue one?

bluesmoke

#62
Sort of. I'll put a full car back together with the blue one and stick it on ebay most likely, as spares/repair.

Lee H

#63
That's how high I had the car.





Running engine to on the floor in 3ish hours.
2000 black Roadster - hardtop, 16" Rota Grids with T1R\'s, TTE springs, TRD bodykit, JDL spoiler, 2.0 16v turbo swap with forged internals, Apexi AVCR, Apexi intake, ST205 chargecooler, JP custom exhaust, Accord Type R Recaro\'s

Anonymous

#64
Cool, should make a bit back

bluesmoke

#65
Hopefully, even if it's just a hundred quid!

Anonymous

#66
It's probably worth more if you break it for parts. Body panels, interior parts, etc

bluesmoke

#67
Probably but I can't be bothered with the hassle  s:D :D s:D

bluesmoke

#68
Well the bumper was collected. It's very stone chipped, but it's all intact and is likely to see some gravel anyway when I get it on track.

I've also put a couple of new wheels on my trusty trolley. The trolley has now been used for MK2 engine swaps, moving MK2 shells around and is now going into the MK3 business  s:D :D s:D

It's a bit big really for dropping an engine onto, but it will do the job. I have to build a second one out of the half size pallet I have spare so that I can swap the engines over with ease.


bluesmoke

#69
Anybody else got any useful info for me?

StuC

#70
I have 215/40/17 T1R on the rear of mine on a 7J rim and I am happy enough with those.  :-) :-) :-)
URBAN CUSTARD COLLECTIVE FOUNDING MEMBER

StuC

#71
215/40/17 compared to the stock FL 16


225/40/17 compared to the stock FL 16


225/35/17 compared to the stock FL 16


Some numbers for you to view relative to the rolling radius/diameter.
225/35 is not a bad match, I'd question the ride quality though. Depends on your type of driving.
URBAN CUSTARD COLLECTIVE FOUNDING MEMBER

tomaky

#72
I always thoguht until now Stu is useless but he goes and does that. Well played!
Westfield Seiw
Skoda octavia vrs 2ltr 245bhp petrol 2023 estate
Ex-2011 Skoda Superb Estate 170 CR Daily Driver
Ex - 2005 Porsche Cayman S
Ex - 2003 Sable
Ex- 2000 Pre FL Blue THOR RACING Ex- TURBO
Ex 2004 Blue  Roadster RIP

bluesmoke

#73
That's awesome Stu, thank you! May be easier to find 215/40's. If so, will the stagger be ok with my 205/40 fronts?

StuC

#74
Did someone say backhanded compliment Tom?  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

I have wasted many an hour (being paid  s:wink: :wink: s:wink: ) going over tyre diameters & SLR's, ground clearances etc etc etc.

Plenty have run 205 front with 215 rears on 17's. I have switched and I am now running 195/40/17's on my front.  :-) :-) :-)
URBAN CUSTARD COLLECTIVE FOUNDING MEMBER

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