My Black 2003 Turbo Build - CrazySX

Started by CrazySX, July 23, 2015, 10:59

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Print
Go Down Pages 1 2 3 4 ... 13
User actions

s12vea

#25
August 13, 2015, 10:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Look at the tte installation manual I'm sure it will show you.
TF204 Blue
Another one won't hurt  .....

CrazySX

#26
August 13, 2015, 13:46 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Looking at it now, great document!!!

Ardent

#27
August 13, 2015, 17:29 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
yep great doc. Page 50 - 52.
And for a real life pic.
 m http://mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... 17#p210811 m

CrazySX

#28
August 13, 2015, 17:35 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Thanks ardent that's very helpful! Only thing that worries me in that position is if it gets crunched on a hump!!!

Ardent

#29
August 13, 2015, 17:45 Last Edit: August 14, 2015, 18:48 by Ardent
I would say if it does then a lot of other bits will be the squish as well, as it is tucked up higher than the lowest point. red part of chassis.

Edit.
Having looked at it in the flesh, despite how it looks in the manual and the pics. It does actually sit on the angle and not tucked up as it looks.
Sorry about that. Came as a surprise to me.

1979scotte

#30
August 13, 2015, 22:23 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Never caught mine yet mostly it's my mid brace that takes the brunt.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

CrazySX

#31
August 15, 2015, 15:36 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Ok so a couple of updates. Replaced my driver side seat belt last week as it was frayed.

Next jobs on the list are front brakes as the pads are worn thin and replace the rear subframe.

I found these pads  m http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 68&alt=web m  

 anyone tried them?

And thinking of going for drilled and grooved discs. Suggestions welcome.

CrazySX

#32
August 15, 2015, 15:39 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Oh I also changed the oil in the gearbox last week. The oil that came out didn't look too clever


Also I would say just over a litre came out so probable the original factory stuff  s:o :o s:o

Anyway I stuck 2 bottles of this stuff in
 m http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 74&alt=web m  

What a difference!

CrazySX

#33
August 15, 2015, 15:48 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Jobs left to do...

Replace subframe

Replace front brakes

Fit Tein S springs

Replace/refurb wheels

Wheel alignment

Do something with the front bumper I have not yet picked up  s:o :o s:o  fit splitter and SMD LED fogs (with halo)

Take out headlights, de-cloud, blacken, fit LED sides and HID mains

Paint and fit JDL skirts

Get Dings taken out  (next wknd  s:D :D s:D  )

And whilst doing all that collect parts for turbo build.

So far I have secured a oil drain. And have all the bits as listed at the start.

I need to get a TTE style intercooler. Or I am going to look at fitting a sidemount near one of the side ducts.

CrazySX

#34
August 15, 2015, 15:51 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Today I started to clean the replacement subframe.

First I used a grease remover

Then I used washing up powder with a scourer  s:) :) s:)

Started with this

Ended up with this..

CrazySX

#35
August 15, 2015, 15:54 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Next steps to get a wire brush on a drill and get all the surface rust gone.

Then a tub of hammerite and a can of bilthamber dynax.

Not sure if I should use a primer.. don't need it with hammerite rite?

jonty

#36
August 15, 2015, 16:12 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Is look at getting a tub of rust eater of some sort, may as well get the stuff out properly whilst you're putting in the effort.

For the brakes is consider getting yellow stuff rather than those pads you linked to, since is you're throwing a turbo at it you'll probably be arriving a bit more urgently than normal and a bit of extra power and fade resistance won't go amiss.. !

CrazySX

#37
August 15, 2015, 16:51 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "jonty"Is look at getting a tub of rust eater of some sort, may as well get the stuff out properly whilst you're putting in the effort.

For the brakes is consider getting yellow stuff rather than those pads you linked to, since is you're throwing a turbo at it you'll probably be arriving a bit more urgently than normal and a bit of extra power and fade resistance won't go amiss.. !
The rust really ain't that bad. It's just surface rust. I have rust eater but hammerite is suppose to be good for it.

As for the brakes, what are yellow stuff pads like from cold?

1979scotte

#38
August 15, 2015, 17:09 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I have yellow stuff with Grooved and drilled disks.
Stops well enough but is noisy.
Good from cold IMHO.
When I'm done with the disks I currently have will probably go back to stock disks.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

CrazySX

#39
August 15, 2015, 19:18 Last Edit: August 17, 2015, 14:48 by CrazySX
That's interesting to know. I had grooved discs on a car once and they are noise and tend to create a lot more dust than normal.  Also the drilled discs can crack.

My discs are actually in decent shape just a bit rusty. Might just stick a set of stock discs on with good pads then. Somebody else has also recommended yellowstuff.

CrazySX

#40
August 15, 2015, 19:21 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
My current discs and pads...

CrazySX

#41
August 15, 2015, 19:27 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
So next steps..

Used the wire wheel first then the pad..

Got me to this..

CrazySX

#42
August 15, 2015, 19:28 Last Edit: August 15, 2015, 20:03 by CrazySX
The quality of the toyota oem weld is shocking. There is weld splatter everywhere! !!  s:o :o s:o

So I took Jonty's advice and used this stuff on the subframe

I was hoping to get it painted today. But this stuff takes 24hrs to fully cure. Thanks Jonty :p

Got it in all the nooks and crannies..

CrazySX

#43
August 15, 2015, 19:28 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Now wait...  s:( :( s:(

jonty

#44
August 15, 2015, 23:00 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "CrazySX"I was hoping to get it painted today. But this stuff takes 24hrs to fully cure. Thanks Jonty :p

Haha sorry mate, will be worth it though! Good effort, my brother's s2000, my mr2 and our jointly owned 200sx all need a lot of this type of love...  s:( :( s:(

jonty

#45
August 15, 2015, 23:02 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Oh, and as for brakes I never use drilled or grooved discs, seems all they do is wear pads faster, no benefit to performance and just cost more....

CrazySX

#46
August 15, 2015, 23:16 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "jonty"Oh, and as for brakes I never use drilled or grooved discs, seems all they do is wear pads faster, no benefit to performance and just cost more....
My 200sx needs some of this too. Will hit that next. Need to do this first as it's my daily.

I see you're coming to Dong day, will be good to put a face to the name  s:) :) s:)

jonty

#47
August 16, 2015, 10:52 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I'm not confirmed yet as I don't have the car MOT'd, but yeah it'll be good to get along to a meet soon mate!

CrazySX

#48
August 16, 2015, 11:11 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "jonty"I'm not confirmed yet as I don't have the car MOT'd, but yeah it'll be good to get along to a meet soon mate!
You got a whole week man, get on it  s:) :) s:)

jonty

#49
August 16, 2015, 11:18 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Yeah I know, but don't want to commit til I'm certain... Should be ok, all I need to do for the 2zz conversion is do the wiring changes (add 3 wires to the plug and move 3 wires) and I'm all set. I fired it up on the 1zz ecu and it worked fine, so that was a big milestone. (And a fvcking huge relief!!)
Print
Go Up Pages 1 2 3 4 ... 13
User actions
Tags: