Lamda / Oxygen sensor brand. You get what you pay for...

Started by yiug412, June 23, 2016, 21:28

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yiug412

June 23, 2016, 21:28 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Hi guys

So a note to myself and other members. Always buy good quality sensors.

Bought a HAAS oxygen sensor in April for £40 from Euro Car Parts and it lasted me 2 months and it's gone again last week. The Denso on the other side has lasted as long as I have had the car for (slightly more than 1 year).

I have now bought a Denso Universal replacement for £33 from Opie oil! It does require wiring yourself but they come with wire connectors, not a hard job to do. Or you can spend £20 more and save all the hassle.

So, always stick with OEM brand!!


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1979scotte

#1
June 23, 2016, 21:32 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Thanks for the post but it is well documented on this forum that buying cheap O2 sensors can be a false economy.
Amazon or sparkplugs.co.uk are the most common places to buy genuine replacements.

Thats a good price from opie if you can be bothered to wire yourself.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

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The Other Stu

#2
June 23, 2016, 21:51 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
One thing I'm good with, is a soldering iron. I might order a spare from Opie at that price.

I've just ordered an OEM one from Amazon which will hopefully be here tomorrow morning for the currently broken one.
No Longer Here

mulaz

#3
June 23, 2016, 22:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
i am running 2 Denso Lambda Sensors DOX-0109 Multi Purpose sensors without any problems on ebay for £30  m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DENSO-Univers ... Sw3KFWgrV4 m
one have been in nearly 2 years the other a year or so

you have to cut off the plugs from the old sensors and then crimp them back onto the new sensors with the supplied connectors
Slowly replacing all the old parts for new parts so that one day i will end up with a brand new car !   s]

insx

#4
June 24, 2016, 16:09 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I bought a super cheap one probably 10 months ago with no problems reported. I did buy a DENSO to replace the one that matters. Admittedly, I've hardly done any miles.

The Other Stu

#5
June 24, 2016, 17:32 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
As I mentioned in the other thread, I've just had to replace a non-OEM one. It doesn't look like it's been there very long.
Replaced with an OEM one.

Also bought another plugless OEM one today for £20!
No Longer Here

Markb

#6
June 26, 2016, 03:37 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Is there a reason for the Roadster being quite hard on sensors?..my 98 Rav4 went to 125,000 (17 years) on the original,exactly the same sensor as the roadster...not that I've personally had a problem yet.

Jon_G

#7
June 28, 2016, 08:17 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
We've owned our roadster from new and all the sensors are original. However I've had to substitute resistors for all three internal heater circuits, as they've all burnt out. So it seems to me that the heaters are the real weak point.

lamcote

#8
June 28, 2016, 10:16 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
So does this mean that "failed" o2 sensors are actually rescuable if it's just the heater circuit that goes.

If so, a "How To" would be very helpful?
Silver 2004 MR2 -  Unmodified but very shiny.

Jon_G

#9
June 28, 2016, 12:20 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "lamcote"So does this mean that "failed" o2 sensors are actually rescuable if it's just the heater circuit that goes.

If so, a "How To" would be very helpful?
In my opinion, yes. Fortunately the sensors that inform fuelling are fitted to the manifold (unlike most cars, where they're fitted somewhere along the exhaust system) so the lack of an internal heater has absolutely zero effect. You can tell whether the fault is the heater or the actual sensor by the stored DTC.

There is guide on the forum. I simply cut the heater pair of wires to the sensor (the two that are the same colour) a couple of inches from the connector end and fitted 15 ohm/15W resistor to the short cut ends that go back to the connector (so leaving the pair to the sensor disconnected). The ECU then still sees current being drawn and assumes the internal sensor heater to be functional.

Stevie_P

#10
June 28, 2016, 17:31 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Yes, they're fine to use I would say with a duff heater circuit.
You'll get the EML light of course.
I had the heater circuit go on one of mine and it passed an MOT no problem.
The emissions were spot on so, as long as it's just the heater circuit then you can bypass with a resistor if you want the EML light out.

I did buy a Denso sensor and replaced the original but I've still got it as a spare.

Steve

lamcote

#11
June 28, 2016, 22:26 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Excellent, thanks
Silver 2004 MR2 -  Unmodified but very shiny.

maybeturbo

#12
June 28, 2016, 22:40 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "The Other Stu"One thing I'm good with, is a soldering iron. I might order a spare from Opie at that price.

I've just ordered an OEM one from Amazon which will hopefully be here tomorrow morning for the currently broken one.

O2 sensors can't be soldered because the sensor gets its reference air through the tiny space in the cable, you mess all that up by soldering it cos it'll fill with fluxes and melted plastic.. The universal denso dox0109 I think it is? Comes with crimps, so use those and it will operate exactly as the oem. Hope that helps.
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