My Sable 2004 - Bossworld

[StuC]

Tidy  :-) :-) :-)

[shnazzle]

First time up to 6k revs as well

Good lad!
I was thinking of you today (in a totally Roadster-related, non homo-erotic way) when I floored it from 4100rpm and bounced it off the limiter haha

[Bossworld]

So, since my last update.

Went for an MOT and air con recharge (spotted a groupon deal for £26).  Aircon was previously making no difference but the light would at least come on and stay on, which I'm sure from another car site is a positive sign.  Recharged and it's now ice cold, was just in time for ding day.

The car had no advisories, but failed on one thing, the handbrake (75kg on one side, 50 something on the other)..  Was given the option of taking it home (the guy at least talked me through what he believed the Toyota process to be, which seemed broadly similar to what's on here).  Said it would have passed had it locked up or something, didn't question it further (perhaps should have done) Didn't want to lose my bank holiday Monday, so gave it to them to try and sort for an hour's labour (£42).

Passed, and apparently over 100 on both sides.   However, the handbrake is now crap again.  Genuinely don't understand it, I had it working on steep hills, up and down on about 6 clicks before they 'fixed' it.  Will maybe take to Steve at D1 if I get the opportunity, got 12 months to worry about it anyway.

Drove to Ding Day and back in a day.  Filled up with 34 litres before hand (had refuelled the previous week with about £15 in).  Hit 407 miles before the light came on, 412 by the time I got to a petrol station.  Managed to get 39 litres in it and it was absolutely to the brim (second click).  That works out as 48mpg, not bad at all for an ageing sports car.

Also had the alignment done at Demon Tweeks.  They suspect the front bushes may be worn, as one of the measurements is borderline out of spec.  Either way seemed a bit more positive on the 200 mile drive home, could probably still do with trying to get the wheels balanced to rule something out.  Will post up the sheet if I get chance.

[shnazzle]

That's a lot of stuff done

[Bossworld]

Since the last update:

Aircon lasted ~48 hours for ding day and that was that.  Had a local specialist come out (will post details up separately as he was excellent).  The condenser is pretty much shot cosmetically, but it wasn't losing any noticeable pressure.  The O rings fitted to the two front pipes were definitely gone, so they've been replaced.  A week later I still have aircon, not sure if it's as cold as the day it was refilled, and I've lost some green gloop from the other side (presumably because the O rings are now fixed, the problem has moved on).

I picked up a brand new condensor for about 2/3rds of the Toyota price, so that's next year's task along with the new radiator/coolant.

While doing the aircon, noticed the front subframe was dripping with some kind of oil.  Turned out the PAS pipes were well and truly corroded.  £90 later on the eBay pattern ones and they're on, and about 600ml of Total DA fluid later there's no leak.

I've no longer got the TTE bar on which makes moving the roof up and down that bit easier, although the oversized wind deflector does get in the way.  Also fitted a DAB stereo - bizarrely I think my old cheapo Pioneer one was louder/produced more bass but I probably just need time to fiddle with the settings.  

Next up will be to insulate the doors, and hopefully reduce the noise when shutting the driver's door.  Previously tightened all visible 10mm nuts for the window so not sure what else it could be.

Wheel centres also swapped out for old-school Toyota logos:



anonymous photo sharing

[Bossworld]

Oops, no update for 6 months.

Since then:

* New Pioneer DAB/Bluetooth fitted, and the subwoofer repositioned and refitted.  Much better all round now.
* Doors insulated with the non-bitumen stuff
* Stripped down front brakes and Ceratec'd everything that needed it
* Fitted two rear calipers from Brakes International - the lever is now very stiff but it more or less holds (the offside still isn't wonderful I have to say, but it seems people pass MOTs with worse).
* Replaced the rocker cover gasket, air filter, PCV valve, spark plugs and chain tensioner.
* Fitted in a dashcam and wiring tucked around the screen surround.
* Garaged since the end of November and left on winter conditioner/charger!  s:( s:(

So, I lost my air con again, probably within a week of the above post.  I've purchased a new receiver/dryer, plug and filter for about £15. This is where the goop leaked out after the specialist did the last refill, and it contains two large o-rings which I'm thinking are a likely failure candidate.  I'm loathe to fit £250+'s worth of new condenser to the car, so want to try this first.

--

To do currently stands at:

Oil and filter change
Fit replacement radiator, 4 x new hoses and change coolant
Attempt to fit new receiver/dryer and get air con recharged
Clean throttle body/IACV
Move the alarm and flip the spare wheel (will look at when I've got the front bumper off again)
Drill out the snapped bolts from removing the front bumper (if it's at all possible, had no luck last time I tried)
Grease the clutch pivot fork (from reading Corolla forums looks like it's do-able in situ).
Drive the damned thing (probably Feb/March!)

[Bossworld]

So...

Oil and filter change - Done
Fit replacement radiator, 4 x new hoses and change coolant - In progress
Attempt to fit new receiver/dryer and get air con recharged - To be arranged
Clean throttle body/IACV - Done
Move the alarm and flip the spare wheel (will look at when I've got the front bumper off again) - Done
Drill out the snapped bolts from removing the front bumper (if it's at all possible, had no luck last time I tried) - Done (top and bottom. 7 in total) - retapped using M5 as there's no chance in hell the old bolts were coming out. 
Grease the clutch pivot fork (from reading Corolla forums looks like it's do-able in situ). - Went badly wrong and can't get the clutch slave boot or fork boot fully back in place.
Drive the damned thing (probably Feb/March!) - 1 March is the day.

[Bossworld]

Since last time:

New radiator and hoses on, full of coolant, empty of air, and drain and vents hopefully water tight.

Couldn't shift the receiver dryer from the old condenser. Unlike the Toyota repair PDFs, it takes a 14mm hex and not a 10. Problem being that after 14 years, the end cap was effectively welded in and even a proper 14mm drain plug socket was just gouging the plastic. So system evacuated and new condenser (£180 just for the part) fitted.

Clutch boots - both back on, thank the Lord. For the slave, I tried unsuccessfully with some locking tweezers. In the end I rolled the boot over itself, offered it up to the lip, and rolled it back over in one move. The fork was a little more difficult but I wedged the clutch pedal down with a brick and having removed the air intake pipe, rear x brace and battery, eventually manipulated the stubborn bastard back in place.

I also have a rather unique, butchered flip key.

Pics to follow at some point but hopefully that is everything done. The car stands me about £3k - I know that's a lot given the mileage and the bodywork isn't mint, but at least I know all the common faults have been addressed.

[Bossworld]

Air con was recharged about 3 weeks ago and is still wonderfully cool.  Pricey for the condenser but well worth it.

If you're based in the North East, I can thoroughly recommend Graham at CoolAuto - http://www.coolauto.co.uk
  Lovely bloke and very thorough in the work he does.

Took advantage of a cheap £22 Groupon MOT a local garage to here in April. It failed on front brake pipe corrosion and handbrake efficiency.  They didn't inspire me with confidence (they were talking about rear drums for the handbrake), so I made and fitted my own new brake lines out of copper.  Lost the beautiful bank holiday Saturday to doing the task, but while I was at it, fitted new front Brembo pads and stripped down/cleaned all the brake parts.

Went over to Carlisle last Saturday where Mr Sloan fitted new Borg and Beck handbrake cables.  While the bin was out, took the opportunity to check and re-do some of the wiring to my sub.  As it turned out, one of the channels can't have been playing properly as it's much louder now.

Took the car to ATS in Heaton for another MOT, sailed straight through with no advisories. Will be using them again in the future.

Only things I would like to do are fit a new front crash bar (have in hand, just need to get the bumper off again to fit) and while I'm at it, polish the headlights.  Thinking of maybe removing them to do a proper job, but not sure how the alignment would be affected (if at all)?

Now for a summer of roof down, A/C on motoring .   :notworthy:

[Bossworld]

Few bits today, both necessitated the bumper to be removed so had been waiting to tackle both together.

Front crash bar replaced for the slightly different design from a later (05) facelift. Note massive lamppost shaped dint in old one, trying not to think too hard about my car's previous life...

Also took both headlights out. The nearside kept building up condensation. I had polished both with autosol previously to good results, but thought I'd try the Holts kit. Got there in the end but I thought I'd knackered them at one point.

The Holts polishing pad is worse than useless and their polishing compound was leaving the headlights really cloudy seconds after they'd been washed.

In the end, redid them using the sanding pads to wet sand by hand, then using the drill and a spare polishing pad I had to go Holts liquid > t cut > children's toothpaste. Very quickly gave them a clean with 3M glass cleaner (wonderful stuff) and applied the protector and that finally worked.

[lamcote]

Where did you get the AC condenser from? Cheers

[Bossworld]

Where did you get the AC condenser from? Cheers

Eureka car parts but they've not had any more in since. £177 though 

Think Toyota is about £230

[lamcote]

Thanks

[Bossworld]

Still have working air con so there's a big thumbs up to replacing the condenser even at the high cost.

Clutch was replaced by a local garage today, the old one was absolutely done for. Wouldn't be surprised if it was the original.

The to-do list is theoretically complete. Theoretically because I'm not happy with how the headlights turned out. I think a thorough polishing with a better kit would resolve it, though it can wait until winter now.

Looking forward to the next five months of driving!

[Bossworld]

While the car is off road for winter I've set about replacing the lower control arms. With advice from here I've also purchased replacement track rod ends and drop links. Cost £65 for the lot.

Unfortunately it seems every bolt is welded in place with rust, luckily I've got two months left to get the job complete. If the driver's side has been this difficult I'm dreading the near side.

Managed to get the track rod end and nut off with the encouragement of a newly purchased blow torch.

I've dug out the wheel alignment from Demon Tweeks and it transpires my memory fails me and it wasn't the toe that was out. I guess that explains why it looks like the front toe hasn't been adjusted in years. Hopefully I'm not wasting my time doing this - I was getting steering wheel vibration above 60mph even after having the wheels balanced. Getting new tyres in the spring so hopefully other than worn top mounts that's all likely suspects replaced?




Inner track rod is in OK condition, I left the threaded portion to soak for a couple of days to clear off some of the corrosion and was able to thread the new lock nut straight on. 20 turns of the TRE later (matching what came off) it's on.

Mapco TREs are an identical length to what came off (113mm). Other brands online are listed as either 118mm, or 95mm. I had an ABS one delivered which was 95 so that's going back to the seller.

[BahnStormer]

While the car is off road for winter I've set about replacing the lower control arms. With advice from here I've also purchased replacement track rod ends and drop links. Cost £65 for the lot.

Unfortunately it seems every bolt is welded in place with rust, luckily I've got two months left to get the job complete. If the driver's side has been this difficult I'm dreading the near side.

Managed to get the track rod end and nut off with the encouragement of a newly purchased blow torch.

I'm not sure about the TRE's, but it is pretty common practice to have to angle-grind the droplink bolts off...

[Bossworld]

While the car is off road for winter I've set about replacing the lower control arms. With advice from here I've also purchased replacement track rod ends and drop links. Cost £65 for the lot.

Unfortunately it seems every bolt is welded in place with rust, luckily I've got two months left to get the job complete. If the driver's side has been this difficult I'm dreading the near side.

Managed to get the track rod end and nut off with the encouragement of a newly purchased blow torch.

I'm not sure about the TRE's, but it is pretty common practice to have to angle-grind the droplink bolts off...

Once I ground them off I was slightly puzzled as to how to get the remains off  . The originals (don't know if they've ever been replaced) had a flange nut on them.  Even with careful use of a grinder I was left with the remains of the flange nut.  Very carefully used the drill to get through the centre and was then able to unscrew the remains.

Driver's side is now complete

[Bossworld]

Passenger side complete, see other threads for much amusement along the way.  Had to replace the inner tie rod on this side too.






Tracking looks well and truly out  :-)

[Carolyn]

Well done on breaking the clamp :notworthy:

Centre the steering wheel and set the tracking (roughly) by placing a 2x4 along each front wheel with a couple of feet sticking out towards the front and the rear.  Adjust until they are parallel. Check by measuring the distance between the 2x4s at each end.

This will more than suffice until you can get it properly aligned.

Many, many  brownie points for persistence!

[shnazzle]

Mad kudos Mr Mechanic!
Well done. I know where to go when I'm stuck

[Bossworld]

Well done on breaking the clamp :notworthy:

Centre the steering wheel and set the tracking (roughly) by placing a 2x4 along each front wheel with a couple of feet sticking out towards the front and the rear.  Adjust until they are parallel. Check by measuring the distance between the 2x4s at each end.

This will more than suffice until you can get it properly aligned.

Many, many  brownie points for persistence!

Ah that's interesting to know there's a DIY route. I say out, it looked like it was toeing out when the steering wheel was straight, but...

Both new tie rod ends went on 20 turns. The old one that came off the right undid 20 turns.

I temp screwed the end on and compared against the nearside rod + tre for length and it looked more or less there as a comparison.

I know there's nothing scientific and no guarantee that both inner rods are the same length; but would it be correct to assume if they were, the same number of turns would leave the wheels roughly correct when the steering wheel is centered? Or is that nonsense and a garage would have to compensate either side for adjustments to keep the steering wheel centered?

I'm not massively worried as other than a fortnightly startup, it won't move again until March and it'll be straight for four new tyres and alignment.

Thanks both. Patrick there's a blowtorch here if you ever need one, useful for freeing stuck bolts and destroying evidence.

[jonbill]

Epic

[Bossworld]

Epic

Thanks, I have to say last night, on reflection I was thinking I've well and truly made a 'mountain out of a molehill' given it's what, 4 bolts and 2 nuts? 

Still, another lesson learned and another great example of people on the forum pitching in with ideas and help.

[Bossworld]

Someone at work who's seen the project photos on Facebook asked if I've ever had chance to drive the car 

Small update - changed to Borg and Beck discs all around, just standard, vented ones. Old grooved ones were looking scabby and following some bargain Amazon purchases made sense to swap them out for these coated ones. Lots of sets of pads on Amazon for a fiver at the minute, full set of four discs ran me £45.

Changed the steering union and boot out for replacement Toyota items. The part that meets the upper UJ has a double wide spline so you can't go wrong. The rack end doesn't, but I'm 90% confident I either got it right, or within one spline.

Speaking of adjustments, while doing the brakes I brought the tracking in on both sides by twice the width of a ten pence coin. It looks straighter at least.

Will be getting new tyres and a front alignment when the car is back on the road but figured a temporary neutral/toe in stance was safer than a toe out.

[Call the midlife!]

Someone at work who's seen the project photos on Facebook asked if I've ever had chance to drive the car 

Small update - changed to Borg and Beck discs all around, just standard, vented ones. Old grooved ones were looking scabby and following some bargain Amazon purchases made sense to swap them out for these coated ones. Lots of sets of pads on Amazon for a fiver at the minute, full set of four discs ran me £45.

Changed the steering union and boot out for replacement Toyota items. The part that meets the upper UJ has a double wide spline so you can't go wrong. The rack end doesn't, but I'm 90% confident I either got it right, or within one spline.

Speaking of adjustments, while doing the brakes I brought the tracking in on both sides by twice the width of a ten pence coin. It looks straighter at least.

Will be getting new tyres and a front alignment when the car is back on the road but figured a temporary neutral/toe in stance was safer than a toe out.

Nope, can't find theses bargains discses anywhere on t'Amazon my precious... not for £45 all round?


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